Seriously looking at this Toytec lift for my 95. It's under their "Complete Lift Kits" it says 2" lift. It comes with ball joint spacers, all new rear lift coils, and all the hardware to install. I was wondering, it says I may need the differential drop kit, how common is the binding of the CV axle? If it only happens at at full flex I'm not too worried about it for the time being. I was also wondering if any of you have pictures of your trucks with this setup, I don't want to order and install it just to find out it's not what I was looking for.
Toytec Lift Advice/Pictures?
- Thread starter jswinkT4R
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2ndGen4runner4x4
New member
I am running 2" BJ spacers in the front with OME springs I the rear. The kit I ordered came with the diff drop kit but I didn't bother to install it.
I would rather have the ground clearance up front and I have not ground my CV shafts so far... don't even think it's possible. Front tire will hang in air and it would still be ok.
http://4x4.fatbobsgarage.com/toyota-...4wd-p4000.aspx
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I would rather have the ground clearance up front and I have not ground my CV shafts so far... don't even think it's possible. Front tire will hang in air and it would still be ok.
http://4x4.fatbobsgarage.com/toyota-...4wd-p4000.aspx
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Okay, yeah I feel like the diff drop kinda defeats the purpose of lifting it. I'm not doing any hardcore wheeling so it shouldn't be a problem anyways. That's exactly the look I'm looking for too. That looks sweet.
TMAC110
Member
Another route that you can take is to kind of piece it together and it may be a little cheaper. Mine is 4crawler 1.5" BJ Spacers with FJ80 coils in the rear with new shocks all the way around, LSPV bracket, and panhard drop bracket and total it cost me about $450. Just another option you may want to look into! I have a bunch of pics and more info in my build thread.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/150038-tmac-110s-build-thread.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/150038-tmac-110s-build-thread.html
I've looked into the LC coils but it seems like they give a lot bigger lift than the OME coils. Plus I don't know how I feel about the diff drop and I'm hoping my shocks are long enough. They are only a year or two old I would hate to have to replace them already. I'm on a college students budget too so it's pretty tough. I love your truck though, pretty much the exact same look I'm going for.
TMAC110
Member
Haha thanks man! I'm right there with ya on trying to build on a college budget. overall the LC coils gave me about 3" in the rear and 1.5" to 2" in the front. And the pan hard drop and lspv are both to adjust the rear to compensate for the lift back there so not the same as a bracket lift for the front. If you do the bj spacers no matter what you will most likely need to do a front diff and sway bar drop kit to relieve the stress that the spacers will put on your cv axles because otherwise they will bind up at full droop.
Did you do the diff drop?
Pisa 8687
New member
No just spacers
Scalded_Dawg
New member
I just got in the parts for my '95 4Runner lift:
- Toytec Ball Joint Spacers for the front.
- FJ80 Rear Coils for the back.
I will fab up my own panhard and LSPV relocation brackets. Have not decided on the diff drop yet.
Starting the install tomorrow night... will post some pics when done.
- Toytec Ball Joint Spacers for the front.
- FJ80 Rear Coils for the back.
I will fab up my own panhard and LSPV relocation brackets. Have not decided on the diff drop yet.
Starting the install tomorrow night... will post some pics when done.
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Nice, looking forward to hearing how it goes
Scalded_Dawg
New member
So it went pretty well. Still have yet to fab the LSPV and panhard drop.
Front lift was easy to install, just took some time getting the UCA trimmed back enough. Take your time and do it clean.
The FJ80 rear coils are a different story.... Mine were just over 4" longer than stock. The upper drag links didn't want to drop the axle down far enough, was actually hitting the back has tank seam. So I disconnected those and was able to drop it enough.
Front lift = 1.5" as the spacer suggests. Ground to fender lip = 37.75"
I put the torsion bars back to original height and leveled the front.
Rear lift = 4.5" over my stock sagging springs. Ground to fender lip = 38"
One recommendation on the FJ80 rear coils: try the FJ80's stock upper spring insulators. I'm still using the 4Runner ones and the FJ80 coils are just a little bigger diameter on the top end; bottom insulator fits great. Also, recommend an extended rear brake hose.
I'm still on 31/10.50x15 tires for reference in the pics.
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Front lift was easy to install, just took some time getting the UCA trimmed back enough. Take your time and do it clean.
The FJ80 rear coils are a different story.... Mine were just over 4" longer than stock. The upper drag links didn't want to drop the axle down far enough, was actually hitting the back has tank seam. So I disconnected those and was able to drop it enough.
Front lift = 1.5" as the spacer suggests. Ground to fender lip = 37.75"
I put the torsion bars back to original height and leveled the front.
Rear lift = 4.5" over my stock sagging springs. Ground to fender lip = 38"
One recommendation on the FJ80 rear coils: try the FJ80's stock upper spring insulators. I'm still using the 4Runner ones and the FJ80 coils are just a little bigger diameter on the top end; bottom insulator fits great. Also, recommend an extended rear brake hose.
I'm still on 31/10.50x15 tires for reference in the pics.
Before:
After:
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So it went pretty well. Still have yet to fab the LSPV and panhard drop.
Front lift was easy to install, just took some time getting the UCA trimmed back enough. Take your time and do it clean.
The FJ80 rear coils are a different story.... Mine were just over 4" longer than stock. The upper drag links didn't want to drop the axle down far enough, was actually hitting the back has tank seam. So I disconnected those and was able to drop it enough.
Front lift = 1.5" as the spacer suggests. Ground to fender lip = 37.75"
I put the torsion bars back to original height and leveled the front.
Rear lift = 4.5" over my stock sagging springs. Ground to fender lip = 38"
One recommendation on the FJ80 rear coils: try the FJ80's stock upper spring insulators. I'm still using the 4Runner ones and the FJ80 coils are just a little bigger diameter on the top end; bottom insulator fits great. Also, recommend an extended rear brake hose.
I'm still on 31/10.50x15 tires for reference in the pics.
Before:
After:
Okay, is the UCA just the bracket that the ball joint is bolted to? The amount of lift looks like what I want. Did you buy shocks to replace the stock length ones?
Scalded_Dawg
New member
Yes, the front upper control arm (UCA). You have to trim back the lower back/inboard side of the ball joint area for the aluminum spacer block to slide in flush with the ball joint mount plate.
There's some pretty good pics here: Toytec Ball Joint Spacer Install Instructions
You will need longer shocks, especially for the rear. The stock rear shock would likely be topped out for travel just sitting in the driveway, with those FJ80 springs.
Scoooooch
New member
I bought that exact kit, shocks springs and spacers. It was a no brainer, everything from one source and dealing with Toytech is easy. The OME lift is awesome, I've had no complaints. Rides awesome in town, sucks everything flying down the trail, and flexes great when crawling. It's got me everywhere I've needs to go and then some...
Isle de Ometepe, Nicaragua
No diff drop either, defeats the purpose. I'm running manuals hubs tho. Gave me enough clearance to run 33's with very minimal rubbing...nothing a BFH couldn't fix. And yes you will need new shocks with lift springs.
Isle de Ometepe, Nicaragua
No diff drop either, defeats the purpose. I'm running manuals hubs tho. Gave me enough clearance to run 33's with very minimal rubbing...nothing a BFH couldn't fix. And yes you will need new shocks with lift springs.
