Trail wheels "better" than TRD Pro wheels?

Saw this at my local stealership parts last weekend.

Sorry about the Antman quality.
 

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[MENTION=92049]LandCruiser[/MENTION]

Man, I like that. Pure utilitarian.

Did you get them from a dealer? What suspension are you running while I'm asking questions?
 
[MENTION=92049]LandCruiser[/MENTION]

Man, I like that. Pure utilitarian.

Did you get them from a dealer? What suspension are you running while I'm asking questions?

I got the first set from CL for 25 bucks a piece. They are actual dealer take offs and rust like FJ steelies are prone to do.

The second set were from Road Ready wheels. They are "OEM replica" but they have a much nicer paint job. I think they were 60 bucks each. They look more or less like the real thing and it's really hard to screw up steelies.

Lift is just a Toytec Ultimate with Bilstein 5100s and SPC UCAs.
 
I like the way your wheels turned out. Did they need to be sand blasted to remove the original coating before they were powdered coated?

I'm curious as this as well as the overall cost so I can compare. There's only one place near me that does PC and they quoted me $60 wheel plus material cost. Throw in $75 to have the tires removed then reinstalled and I fear by the time tax 9% tax is added in it's going to come within $100 to what a set of FN FX PROs would run. I'm just wondering if it's worth the cost or should I just excessively prep and use Plasti-Dip because I do prefer the TEP/TRDOR wheels over the SEMAs. I think because every single 5th gen in my area that's not a limited has driven down to Nashville and purchased a set from whatever that warehouse is that sells on ebay.
 
I don't like my Trail wheels and especially hate the looks of the Bridgestone Dueler HTs. Not enough wheel offset (I have a Toyota Boss lift so that brings in the two front wheels) so it makes it look like one of those trucks that you drive on railroad tracks and the Duelers are so boring. They seem to wear fast and I have already had one with a defect and had to replace it.

Bout to put SCS Ray10's and BFG KO2 C load on it (weight of wheel and tire with those options is only about 3 lbs more per wheel). But it aint cheap. SCS wheels have a -10 offset and a 4.30 backspacing. As far as I can tell that is the best without going overboard. Icon Rebound and Method have a 0 offset and a 4.75 backspacing. I think better than stock but still doesn't sit out enough in my opinion. I think Icon and Method were probably designed to be a good wheel compromise for stock and lifted. SCS was probably designed primarily for lifted Toyota's.

The big hassle is selling the stock wheels once I get the new wheels and tires.
 
To answer the OP question. I would say yes. TRD wheel is Made in Thailand by the same factory that make wheels for TECHART. I think that gave it a better pedigree no?
 
As someone who's driven on both (I swapped by OffRoad wheels for TRD which I'm currently on).

1) Weight savings at the wheel isn't trivial. It has a number of positive effects and only a couple negatives

Firstly, a vehicle with just a few lbs heaver on each wheel can be robbed as much as 5% from HP and Torque at the wheels. This is demonstrated and confirmed (youtube search it). Rotational mass and inertia mean more power is robbed and obviously fuel economy effected.

Secondly, rotating mass also has more burden on the braking system. This matters both NOW with how the brakes perform but more importantly, how long the pads and rotors last.

Thirdly, reducing unsprung weight improves suspension characteristics. Granted, on an SUV the effect is muted, but the way a tire reacts to imperfections in the road changes based on how heavy the wheel is. The lighter the unsprung mass, the more grip and quicker harmonics to return to grip when negotiating holes and bumps at speed.

Lighter wheels DOES however transfer road imperfections more. It makes sense that big heavy wheels and tires soak up things better, so lighter wheels will help you feel everything just a little more.

Lastly, I actually preferred the styling of the OR wheels, but for what it was going to cost to have them powdercoated black, I just decided I could buy new TRD wheels and sell the OEM (and that's what I did). Metal/Stainless just doesn't go well with an all black 4Runner. Looked goofy (to me). Other color schemes I'd have probably kept them.
 
Agree on the unsprung mass. The SCS wheels are about 7 or 8 lbs lighter than stock wheels (25 SCS vs. 33 stock) and C load BFG K02 is about 8 lbs lighter than E load. Stock Duratracs are 39 lbs and C load BFG KO2 is 51 lbs. Thus only about a 3 lb gain while getting 6 plies instead of 4 and getting an aggressive off road tread. I am pretty sure the BFGs even though they would have only 6 plies will still have a reinforced sidewall.

I am sure because of the gearing was designed for smaller tires the MPG will drop some (not as much as getting 30 lbs wheels [Icon Rebound] and E load tires) but the ride should be close to the same.

How long did it take to sell your wheels and how much did you get?
 
Strap this on your Trail vs. TRD argument (Yeah I know they are ORs, but sorta the same)
 

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I thought I would like the appearance of the TRDP wheels on my SR5, but once installed, I really didn't care for them. Too much "dark" going on with the MGM color. I found a set of 2014 TE wheels and installed those and sold the TRDPs. I prefer the matte silver of those wheels and feel it balances out the truck better. Obviously taste is subjective.

Other than appearances, I guess both wheels have their advantages and disadvantages. The TE affords a wider tire and offers valve stem protection; though the TRD offers a slightly better stance and lighter weight. In the end I guess it's a wash.

With / without TRDPs. Tires are 33" and the suspension is 2.5/1.5".

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I still like the look of the trail rims as well.

Used to have them plastidipped black and I actually just plastidipped them Bronze Gold a couple days ago. Not sure I am too sold on the Bronze Gold yet though. It's a little too gold for my taste but it's growing on me. At distance they appear a bit darker, but up close I feel like they are bit more on the gold & brighter side.

I did just buy the Brass Monkey plastidip as well and it's on the way nest week I believe. It should be a bit darker and more bronze as well or atleast thats what I am hoping for. Definitely can post up photos of that when it comes in next week though if anyone else is interested once I get it finished up.

BLACK PLASTIDIP

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BRONZE GOLD PLASTIDIP

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Agree on the unsprung mass. The SCS wheels are about 7 or 8 lbs lighter than stock wheels (25 SCS vs. 33 stock) and C load BFG K02 is about 8 lbs lighter than E load. Stock Duratracs are 39 lbs and C load BFG KO2 is 51 lbs. Thus only about a 3 lb gain while getting 6 plies instead of 4 and getting an aggressive off road tread. I am pretty sure the BFGs even though they would have only 6 plies will still have a reinforced sidewall.

I am sure because of the gearing was designed for smaller tires the MPG will drop some (not as much as getting 30 lbs wheels [Icon Rebound] and E load tires) but the ride should be close to the same.

How long did it take to sell your wheels and how much did you get?

I sold them for $400 local (FB marketplace). At that price, they went quick.

I paid $640 for the new TRD wheels (not knockoffs) so between the cost of the wheels and resale and a mount/balance, it cost me about $350 to swap out.

Powdercoaters wanted anywhere from $125 to $150 per wheel, and I'd have to drop them off for an extended time and have my 4Runner on jack stands during the process.

I loathe plasti dip for most applications and didn't feel like reapplying frequently or treating the wheels softly during washes. I considered using bed coat or bedliner but decided against that because it's rough/porous and grabs dirt more.

At the end of the day, I just decided it was easier to go with all new wheels (painted from the factory).
 

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