Trans. cooler questions

[Tom P.]

You guys are great help and I'd appreciate your suggestions.

I've read the links on a transmission cooler install and have a few questions:

Should the cooler be installed touching the radiator, for maximum cooling, or is it okay an inch or two in front of the radiator? It might be better to not physically attach them so I can later replace the radiator, but I worry there won't be enough air flow without contact to the radiator/fan.

The B&M 70264 and the Wix inline magnetic filter are on the way. Is the Wix as good as the Magnafine: Wix Filters 495-58964 - WIX Filters Magnetic Inline Transmission Filters - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Is it a good idea to flush the trans. fluid before I do this job, to start totally clean? And is this a service better done by a shop?

Thanks guys!

 

[oly4runner]

I installed my B&M flush to the AC condenser using the included custom zip ties and stick-on foam pads that came with my B&M. BigFish has an awesome writeup on his installation process HERE and talks about B&M installation placement based on the documentation that came with the cooler HERE

If you decide to get a new radiator you can always cut the special zip ties and purchase a spare set from amazon and then just remount it to the AC condenser/new radiator.

That reminds me, I killed my back twice :crybaby: -I installed B&M coolers on both my runners- but it was worth having the peace of mind and a little greased up DIY satisfaction.

 

[Drcoffee]

+1

Up flush against the ac condensor. It wont need to be removed to replace the radiator. You wont get much airflow thru it otherwise.

 

[Tom P.]

Thanks, guys! I'll mount it to the radiator. When I replace the radiator, I'll just cut the ties and put new ones on the new radiator.

Is this a good procedure (found on another thread) for flushing/replacing the fluid? :

1.Disconnect the cooler line coming from the transmission, aim it in a catch basin. this is where you may need a rubber hose to slip over the line, so as to not get fluid everywhere.
2.Get all your new fluid lined up and ready. remove the caps and set nearby.
3.Remove the transmission dipstick and put in a long funnel that fits tight in the dipstick tube. Fill the funnel with fluid, and then start the truck. Here's the tricky part. the fluid will now be pumping out the cooler line into the basin. Your job is to keep filling the funnel as quickly as it comes out the bottom. if you do it right when your out qts. your level should good or slightly above the high mark. You have to try and not let the level get too low it's not good for your transmission. best thing is to stop the truck a couple times and check you level. make sure and wait a few minutes for the tube to drain into the tranny. If done correctly you'll get the exact same results as the costly flush from the dealer.

 

[Drcoffee]

Here is how I installed mine in series with the radiator cooler.

Remove the grill and attach the cooler. I unbolted the 4 radiator mounting bolts and moved the radiator back a few inches letting it rest on the fan so I could reach behind the condenser to install the zip ties.

Use a 6" piece of hose and split it down the center and make cuts every half inch 3/4 the way across. Use this to cover the edge of the hole in the radiator support. Run the hoses thru the drivers side opening. I sleeved the cooler hose with small radiator hose to stop it from rubbing on the condenser mounts

Rotate the radiator exit port to 11 o'clock and connect it to the upper port of the cooler. The lower cooler port will connect to the magnefine filter and back to the transmission

 

[Tom P.]

Thanks for posting the pictures, Doc. It looks like you're not bypassing the original cooler, but adding a cooler and filter inline. Is that right? Isn't the issue that a gasket within the radiator separating the cooler from the radiator can fail, allowing fluids to mix, and that's why people bypass with an exterior cooler?

 

[kball]

Isn't the issue that a gasket within the radiator separating the cooler from the radiator can fail, allowing fluids to mix, and that's why people bypass with an exterior cooler?

You are correct. The Dr just likes to live dangerously. It's all personal choice. With a new radiator you "should" be good for years without worry but most of us here like to never think about it again and bypass.

And I would do like the Dr described above and move the rad back out of the way and only zip tie the cooler to the condenser. If you tighten the zip ties through the rad and condenser/cooler you will be pulling the two together and if it's too tight it could bend things and possibly cause issues

 

[Drcoffee]

You are correct. The Dr just likes to live dangerously. It's all personal choice.

Not too dangerously. I live in the great flat-lands of IL near the soviet stronghold called Chicago where everything is paved over. I also replaced the radiator within the first week of ownership. I'm fairly confident that I'll have another 100k miles before I need to worry about the radiator breaking. But I also have to contend with extreme weather. We get up to 110 in the summer and -30 in the winter. So I rely on the radiator to modulate the transmission temps to keep it running within design limits. That's just my humble opinion which can run contrary to some other members. If you doubt me, search a thread I started on trans cooler, how to connect. It gets heated and personal but in the end we all make a personal choice on which is best.

Correct! I did not omit my radiator cooler. But if you do not want to replace your $120 radiator, I would suggest bypassing it. If I only had $120 to spend, I would replace the radiator before buying the trans cooler. If the Rad is going to fail, it will fail when you can least afford it to fail.

I forgot to mention, your brass radiator port will bump into the shroud. Carefully use two box end wrenches and bend the port out enough to clear the shroud. Just dont stress the cooler connection when you do it. Brass is flexible to a certain degree.

 

[Tom P.]

I see; connect to the front of the condensor, NOT the radiator, and not both. Check. (Is there still sufficient draw from the fan behind the radiator to cool the trans cooler in front of the condensor?)

Last question; is the simultaneous fill/drain procedure I mentioned above a good one for replacing all of the trans fluid?

Thanks, guys!

 

[Drcoffee]

You betcha. Once you get it installed and before you re-install the grill, start the motor and put a piece of paper in front of the cooler. the suction will hold it tight.

No. There's no way you can add fluid as fast as it is being ejected. The filler tube is too small. I also don't do drain and fills. Its a waste of good fluid to keep diluting the new with old.

*Buy 3 gallons of Valvoline high mileage DEX/MERC and flush the trans 2 qts at a time until you have used all 12 Qts. You start by draining the trans pan (using the drain plug) and refill. I begin by overfilling by 1 Qt so I dont run low. Then disconnect the radiator cooler exit line (driver's side) and run the hose into a container. If you use gallon oil jugs, it will have hash marks for Qts on the side. The initial drain and fill is 4Qts so the first gallon jug is now your first waste oil jug. Clever eh? I paint the hash marks and the initial full jug level with a black marker so I can see them better and shine a light on the jug. Then start the motor until 2 Qts pump out ( about 20-30 seconds) and stop the motor (a helper comes in handy here) and then refill 2 Qts and repeat. Make sure that what you put in, equals what you took out. In other words, you should stop once the 3-gallon jugs are full again. I found this ATF for $17 a gallon at Advanced auto parts, but you need to buy it online and then pick it up at a local store. Other wise its $25 ea

10 Min Automatic Transmission Fluid Flush + Replacement (Most Cars) - YouTube

 

[Tom P.]

Good video link. Thanks!