trans fluid drain and refill

[empty403]

Could someone tell me if the transmission fluid drain and refill procedure is the same (especially in regards to getting it into temp check mode) on our 5th gen 4runners as it is on the 4th gen and the 2nd gen Tacomas.

If you have a ScanGauge2 make sure you have the TFT (Transmission Temp) between 95 and 115 degrees Fahrenheit. If you don't have a ScanGauge2, here's a link on how to achieve the correct temperature using the vehicle's ECU:
Welcome to Land Cruiser Owners On Line

 

[vicpick58]

Not forced. You're free to go if you don't feel confident enough to do it, or you're free to go to the dealer if you don't feel like doing it. Big difference.

Just to follow up on my part of this thread, I found in the maintenance schedule where is states 60k miles replace transmission fluid. It is indeed for special driving conditions like towing, heavy loads, or rooftop exterior loading.

I almost always have the heavy vehicle loading referred to in the manual so I decided to take mine to the dealer and have the fluid changed at 60k miles.

It cost around $250.00. To me it was worth it not to deal with the mess and for my extended warranty.

 

[JB.]

It may be worth noting that the apparent complexity of the level check procedure is only in deciphering the text instructions to enter temp check mode.

With an easy way to establish temperature and then knowing what the implications are for fluid level, the level check procedure starts to look simple.

Since there's little reason to believe things work any differently in the 5th gen than the 4th, the following thread may be of interest to some. Let me preempt any criticism by saying it should be used for entertainment purposes only. :ranger:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...r-ways-check-ws-transmission-fluid-level.html

 

[Maitre]

If you tow regularly, every 50K
If no tow, never.

 

[Rmack]

I am about to change mine and plan on using the Toyota fluid and TIS instructions.

FWIW, I have many years (as a lot of you on this board) doing my own service, and have rebuilt engines and transmissions. There are so many clutches/friction parts in any automatic transmission that I would never wait too long to change it. Sure, it will last for a long time without being changed. But it will last twice as long (or more) with regular fluid changes. There is clutch debris in the fluid as soon as a new tranny is put into gear. This debris also ends up putting a "film" on the transmission internals. I have changed many solenoids on great working trannies (other than sticky solenoid) due to this.

 

[catrains]

I am about to change mine and plan on using the Toyota fluid and TIS instructions.

FWIW, I have many years (as a lot of you on this board) doing my own service, and have rebuilt engines and transmissions. There are so many clutches/friction parts in any automatic transmission that I would never wait too long to change it. Sure, it will last for a long time without being changed. But it will last twice as long (or more) with regular fluid changes. There is clutch debris in the fluid as soon as a new tranny is put into gear. This debris also ends up putting a "film" on the transmission internals. I have changed many solenoids on great working trannies (other than sticky solenoid) due to this.

I have done transmission servicing @20K miles on new vehicles . I have found its so damn different on how the pan is clean or really loaded with debris. It depends on how the transmission was cleaned prior to installing at the factory. my experience is the first pan drop is the worst for debris.

debris does effect the valves.. the synthetic fluids do reduce the film, effecting on the components.

 

[oljedi11950]

A lot of this discussion on 4th , but as you will see nothing lasts forever ! Changed 05 @ 105k was lucky enough to be able to see fluid on exchange , burnt smell, blackish color , so w/o specifically testing it just the piece of mind that it brings was enough for me . also noticed much smoother shifting , of course not sure if the hotter temps here have much influence on trans ? I will be changing 5th @ 100k !

 

[MitchRobbins]

I just did a flush on my 2013 LE with 57,000 miles on it. I followed the instructions from this tacoma forum:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-full-flush-for-automatic-transmission.68462/

My dad and I did it together, but for you pros, you could do it by yourself. A few pieces of advice:

1. To refill it, I used this garden sprayer:
http://www.amazon.com/Chapin-20000-...qid=1464630369&sr=8-1&keywords=garden+sprayer

I cut off the little nozzle, attached some clear 3/8th inner-diameter tubing on the end, then stuck the other end in the "fill" hole. This is MUCH easier then using one of those little hand pumps.

2. For temperature check, I was going to use techstream, but I have one of those cables that doesn't show the live data. Plan B: I used an ELM 327 wifi obdII link and an iphone app called "Engine Link" to get the transmission oil temp. An explanation is here:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...rans-fluid-temp-other-things-your-iphone.html

3. I ended up using 13-14 quarts of WS fluid. By the end, it was flushing clean red, so even though it holds 16 quarts...it was fairly clean after 13.

In the end, the fluid was very dark but didn't smell burned or anything. I dropped the pan and cleaned the sludge of the bottom and off the magnets, just for good measure. I can say that it may be intimidating, but it's not that challenging.

 

[Lester Lugnut]

my experience is the first pan drop is the worst for debris.

Yep.

2nd/3rd not so clean either. After that - no more crap on the pan magnets.

 

[Randyman...]

OK - I decided if I'm going through the trouble to do this Tranny service at 110K - then I might as well do the 12-13qt flush instead of just the 5qt flush (at most) from the more simple drain/fill procedure. 8 more qt's of WS (13 total), sprayer and two graduated buckets on the way! Hope to do this on Friday/Saturday...

I've never dropped the auto-trans pan on any vehicle (this is my first auto! / dropped a few manual tranny's/clutch jobs). I assume it would be prudent to do so at 110K? And this just entails draining the pan, dropping the pan, cleaning the pan & magnet with solvent, and re-assembling with a new clean gasket? Then proceed to re-fill the pan and continue to flush as normal?

How critical would you say dropping/cleaning the pan is (want to keep my T4R for another 100K or more)? If my garage is not exactly spic-n-span - might this be more risky than foregoing it?

And to clarify - With the Garden Sprayer refill method: Are you using the garden sprayer/tubing into the tranny's FILL PLUG - or feeding it back into the trans cooler RETURN line? My dumb-ass suspects the cooler/radiator line is only used to drain the fluid (2.5l at a time) and then refill 2.5l at the Tranny's FILL PLUG, and repeat until clean?

Thanks! I have a whole mess of scheduled maintenance headed my way.

 

[Jeremy556]

I wouldn't bother dropping the pan.

 

[Randyman...]

It will bother me not, then! Thanks for the vote of confidence Jeremy556. Maybe that will let me get to the plugs on the same day...

 

[Randyman...]

Got it done! Flushed 13qts. Was pretty filthy. As everyone says - it shifts much more smoothly now...

I'm a little concerned I didn't get the Fluid Check mode entered correctly. No matter what I did (tried for quite a while!) - the AT Temp light would not come on properly with the OBDII jumped.

However - my "Gear Indicator" on the dash would flash "D" on the 3rd shift back into Neutral (where the AT light was supposed to come on) - and the display remained showing "D" even when I shifted back into park. (pulled the jumper at this point). Then after a little while of idling - the "D" indicator began flashing. I'm hoping that was a different form of AT Temp indication.

'13 SR5 4x4 FWIW...

I also have one of those wireless OBDII adaptors - I might get it going and check the ATF level again once I get it configured and add the trans temp PID.

The amount of AT Fluid that came out of the overfill plug agrees with the amount I think I overfilled - so I'm not overly worried just yet.

Rock and roll - thanks to all! :yo:

 

[renau001]

I'm a little concerned I didn't get the Fluid Check mode entered correctly. No matter what I did (tried for quite a while!) - the AT Temp light would not come on properly with the OBDII jumped.

However - my "Gear Indicator" on the dash would flash "D" on the 3rd shift back into Neutral (where the AT light was supposed to come on) - and the display remained showing "D" even when I shifted back into park. (pulled the jumper at this point). Then after a little while of idling - the "D" indicator began flashing. I'm hoping that was a different form of AT Temp indication.

The "D" is what you're looking for instead of the AT TEMP light. Specifically, you want it to be in SOLID when you pull the overflow plug to set the level. If it is flashing "D" that means your are above the range for setting the proper level.

It wasn't clear to me from your post whether or not you set the level while it was in solid or flashing. The consequence of setting it with it flashing could be that you are a little underfilled. From what it sounds like, the temp check mode was working properly for you, just make sure you actually pull the overflow plug to set level while the "D" is in solid. This will ensure you're in the right temp range, 104 to 113 degF. Flashing would mean you're greater than 113 degF. Also, if you enter then temp check mode and "D" lights up for a couple seconds and goes out, that just means you're below 104 degF, give it time to heat up and should come in solid. Hope that helps.

 

[Lester Lugnut]

I used the jumper technique - ports 4/13 in Data Link Connector 3(DLC3) jumpered with a small paper clip. The ports in DLC3 are very small. I found it difficult to jumper with a wire - even small gauge. In my opinion a small paper clip is easier to use.

Something you may not see in many places, but is good to know deals with what happens when the DLC3 pins are properly jumpered and the engine started. You'll see all kinds of dash warning lights blinking. If you don't experience this using the jumper technique, the DLC3 ports are not jumpered correctly. I've noticed a lot of complaints at the tacomaworld.com forum about people not being able to get the vehicle into temp check mode using the jumper wire technique. I could be wrong, but I'd bet some of them did not have the jumper set properly.

Documentation I've seen for 5th Gen 4Runners says the D indicator light in the dash cluster will blink for 2 secs. to indicate transmission has entered temp check mode. You can review all of this in the 2nd post of the following thread - jeremy556 posted the information. My experience was a little different.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/186930-transmission-temp-check-mode.html

In my case the blink happened so fast I barely caught it. 2 secs. is not a long time, but what I experienced was less than 2 secs. My eyes were fixed on this area. I've noticed a true 2 sec. blink in a 2nd Gen Tacoma with the A750E tranmission. The A/T Temp Oil light is used for that vehicle vs. the D indicator light as mentioned above.

I started out with a stone cold engine. The transmission was placed in P after entering temp check mode and the jumper wire was removed. A tech at tacomaworld.com said it was VERY important to remove the jumper wire after entering temp check mode using the jumper wire technique. I noticed that the P indicator light was not to be seen in the dash cluster? The field where the P is normally displayed was blank - a solid grayish color was displayed? About 8 mins. later the D indicator light came on. The fluid temp was now at the low range for the vehicle. I removed the overfill plug.

The transmission was intentionally overfilled a bit before starting this procedure. I drained until there was a steady stream(some call it a trickle) coming out.

A new gasket was used on the transmission pan drain plug and the overfill plug. Both are the same part number. I also used a new gasket on the plug up above where the transmission is refilled. Part numbers for all of these are in the sticky area.

 

[Randyman...]

EDIT - Lester - I believe I followed the procedure correctly - All dash lights were lit-up as expected. Even removed the jumper after entering "Check mode" as required - but again my "D" light was the only indication I was in that mode (the AT Temp light only lit up before the engine was started and never came back on). So I guess "D" is correct then? No AT Temp light?
The link you posted is exactly what I needed! Seems odd for Toyota to change it like that I'll indeed need to re-check with the "D" lit solidly then...

OK renau001 - Thanks for the clarification.

All of the documentation I read specifically indicated the "AT Temp" light is what flashes for 2 seconds, yada yada yada... I don't think any of the threads or Toyota PDF's mention the "D" indicator being solid/flashing for the procedure? That is what stumped me for a good 30-45 minutes or more :bash:

I think I was just on the edge of being over-temp then. The "D" just started flashing - I checked within 15 seconds from then. Drained excess to a slow trickle and closed it up.

I assume a low level would be most noticeable while shifting cold? The hot test drive last night was smooth as butter...

Thanks for the reply

 

[Lester Lugnut]

EDIT - Lester - I believe I followed the procedure correctly - All dash lights were lit-up as expected. Even removed the jumper after entering "Check mode" as required - but again my "D" light was the only indication I was in that mode (the AT Temp light only lit up before the engine was started and never came back on). So I guess "D" is correct then? No AT Temp light?

You have an -> A/T Temp Oil light? I guess that changes things. My Tacoma has one; my 4Runner does not.

First time I heard of this, but your yr/model are different than mine.

 

[renau001]

[MENTION=89075]Randyman...[/MENTION], check out post #4 of this thread from [MENTION=63951]homeyclaus[/MENTION]. It has instructions that mention the 'D' indicator. A little underfill better than overfill. Should be fine, until u get the chance to set it again.

 

[Randyman...]

You have an -> A/T Temp Oil light? I guess that changes things. My Tacoma has one; my 4Runner does not.

First time I heard of this, but your yr/model are different than mine.

That is what I found strange, too! I do have a red A/T Temp light that comes on before the truck is started. But it does not seem to be part of the procedure any more...

Thanks renau001 - I already found just enough WS-ATF left in the 13 bottles to re-top-off the trans with 1/3qt (was digging through the trash can)! I already re-entered Temp Check Mode - "D" eventually came on solid - and then I drained until a slow trickle was coming out. I feel better now


Thanks all!

 

[Lester Lugnut]

Randyman - sounds like you got it worked out.

It's my understanding that most 5th Gen 4Runners do not have the A/T Temp Oil Light. It sorta makes sense that even though you do have this light, the responsibility for alerting when entering into temp check mode was shifted to the D gear light for consistency across the various 5th Gen 4Runner models.