trans temp gauge

How did you get your gauge to fit all the way in like that. I have the AM 2640 and It's a really snug fit back there. I had to pop the gauge out a little bit to get the panel to clip down, and that's without the mounting bracket on the gauge.

You gotta move the crap behind it out of the way.
 
You gotta move the crap behind it out of the way.

So the stuff that's there can be moved? I didn't take the time to take a closer look at what that block of stuff is.

Found this pic (not mine). I guess that's what's there, but I didn't remove all of the foam surrounding the area.

P1040432.jpg~original


So there's wiggle room to move this crap out of the way?
 
If you want the look of the gauge pods then disregard my post. But if you are more interested in monitoring your trucks systems i recommend getting a scan-gauge 2. Its a hundred times easier to install and set up, just plug it into your obd2 plug. And you can set it to monitor whatever you want; (up to 4 at a time) trans temp, oil temp, oil pressure, boost, fuel economy, speed, rpms, etc.. Plus its only $160 which is a fraction then if you bought and installed all the different gauges.

ScanGaugeII : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge
 
If you want the look of the gauge pods then disregard my post. But if you are more interested in monitoring your trucks systems i recommend getting a scan-gauge 2. Its a hundred times easier to install and set up, just plug it into your obd2 plug. And you can set it to monitor whatever you want; (up to 4 at a time) trans temp, oil temp, oil pressure, boost, fuel economy, speed, rpms, etc.. Plus its only $160 which is a fraction then if you bought and installed all the different gauges.

ScanGaugeII : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge


SCII doesn't work for monitoring trans temp on '96 to '98 Runners.
 
If you want the look of the gauge pods then disregard my post. But if you are more interested in monitoring your trucks systems i recommend getting a scan-gauge 2. Its a hundred times easier to install and set up, just plug it into your obd2 plug. And you can set it to monitor whatever you want; (up to 4 at a time) trans temp, oil temp, oil pressure, boost, fuel economy, speed, rpms, etc.. Plus its only $160 which is a fraction then if you bought and installed all the different gauges.

ScanGaugeII : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge

The reason I installed the gauge pod and temp gauge was because scan gauge will not register transmission temps on my '97. What Spiderman^^^ said above me.
 
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Accurate readings

FWIW, I bought a OBD2 scanner (wifi) to my iphone to monitor transmission temps and notice the temp reading on my dash mounted gauge was reading much lower than the OBD2 monitor. I expected a slight drop just because if the location of the temp senders: One in the transmission and one on the cooler line. But it was about a 20* temperature differential. The only thing that made sense was the brass "T" housing the gauge temp sending unit was cooling the sender, giving false readings. I found a cheap solution at home depot to insulate the brass T for about $2.50 and a couple zip ties. After installing the insulation, The temperature reading on the dash gauge rose to within 10* of the OBD2 monitor app on my iphone. You may want to check yours for accuracy. If you dash gauge is reading 180* you may still be above 200* in reality.

59d62897-5f2a-4ec8-9d5b-077c82a91350_300.jpg
 
I always kind of assumed that the OB2 reading is purposefully calibrated a little higher to allow for a margin of error or earlier warning via the dummy lights. I dunno. SCII and OB2 gauges always seem to return higher temp values than aftermarket gauges. But the T-fitting insulator is a good idea, I'll look into getting some. It definitely can't hurt.
 
FWIW, I bought a OBD2 scanner (wifi) to my iphone to monitor transmission temps and notice the temp reading on my dash mounted gauge was reading much lower than the OBD2 monitor. I expected a slight drop just because if the location of the temp senders: One in the transmission and one on the cooler line. But it was about a 20* temperature differential. The only thing that made sense was the brass "T" housing the gauge temp sending unit was cooling the sender, giving false readings. I found a cheap solution at home depot to insulate the brass T for about $2.50 and a couple zip ties. After installing the insulation, The temperature reading on the dash gauge rose to within 10* of the OBD2 monitor app on my iphone. You may want to check yours for accuracy. If you dash gauge is reading 180* you may still be above 200* in reality.

59d62897-5f2a-4ec8-9d5b-077c82a91350_300.jpg

Dr. Coffee, if you are still around, could you post a picture of how and where you installed the temp sender? I am debating between putting a t-connector right at the brass pipe union that houses the stock ATF sensor, and into the flexible hose that runs from the steel tube to the rad.
 
Dr. Coffee, if you are still around, could you post a picture of how and where you installed the temp sender? I am debating between putting a t-connector right at the brass pipe union that houses the stock ATF sensor, and into the flexible hose that runs from the steel tube to the rad.

I put mine just after the steel pipe coming out of the tranny. Point the leg of the T downward so no air bubbles will collect around the sensor.

Although the foam T works great, if I had to do it again, I would use the new Silicone tape/wrap to cover the brass T. Its more durable and the silicone will insulate just as well.

3m-wrap-and-repair-silicone-tape-03625.jpg
 
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I put mine just after the steel pipe coming out of the tranny. Point the leg of the T downward so no air bubbles will collect around the sensor.

Although the foam T works great, if I had to do it again, I would use the new Silicone tape/wrap to cover the brass T. Its more durable and the silicone will insulate just as well.

How did you actually connect or splice it in? Did you use a T with one end connected to brass/steel union coming out of the tranny, the other end to teh steel cooler pipe running to the rad, and the third end received the temp sender?

I am having the biggest trouble with this!
 
Your hardware store will have a 3/8" T and barbed 3/8" male fittings(2). The sensor goes in the leg of the T. Just cut out a section of the rubber hose big enough to accomodate the T fitting. Use teflon pipe tape (gas resistant preferrably)

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Your hardware store will have a 3/8" T and barbed 3/8" male fittings(2). The sensor goes in the leg of the T. Just cut out a section of the rubber hose big enough to accommodate the T fitting. Use teflon pipe tape (gas resistant preferrably)

Aha, I see. So you spliced it into the flexible hose near the rad, rather then into the metal pipe or the union that comes out of the transmission? (the one that receives the stock ATF temp sensor) See image
 

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