Ok Folks, I installed the B&M 70264 cooler yesterday and replaced the radiator, thermostat and lower radiator hose too. I used the same mounting technique that [MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION] and [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] did. I chose the passenger side for the install and routed my lines through the access hole for the air conditioning lines just like [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] did.
I used the long zip ties and installed it directly against the air conditioning condenser with the foam pads between the cooler and the condenser. Since I had the radiator out, I could have just pushed the zip ties through the condenser but I decided to put the zip ties through the radiator as well. I figured if I ever had to replace a broken zip tie, I'd be pushing it through the radiator anyways since I'm not going to drain all the coolant and remove the radiator just to replace a zip tie. I also figured by pushing the zip ties through the radiator, it distributes the carrying load between the condenser and the radiator so all the force isn't applied just to the condenser. I'm not an engineer but it seemed to make sense at the time.
I did my install just like [MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION] and ran the cooler In-Series rather than bypassing the stock cooler in the radiator. After plenty of research, including some of the information shared on this thread, it was clear to me the way to go is to run an external cooler in-series. Here's the reasons for my decision:
1) A bypassed system cannot keep the transmission cool enough under extreme conditions (towing, slow driving up steep 4 wheel trails, etc.) unless you go the extra mile and maybe add a second cooler with electric fans controlled by a thermostat. I think many on this forum who have bypassed systems don't push their rigs like i do so maybe a bypassed system is fine for them. I'd rather not see mid to high 200's driving up a steep trail or towing a bunch of gear into the mountains.
2) A bypassed system can keep your trans fluid temps lower than than optimal in cold climates. I'm not in freezing temperatures all that often, but I don't want any undo wear to the transmission when I drive in these conditions. I know the coolers will route fluid back to the trans without sending it through the cooling fins when the fluid is cold but the stock cooler in the radiator will bring the trans fluid temps up to a proper operating temperature much quicker than just relying on the friction in the trans to heat it up.
I know, I'm forgetting about the Dreaded Pink Milkshake. Ok, just like [MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION] opinion on this subject, I think the chance of this happening is very very slim. There's so so many vehicles that use a trans cooler in the radiator and it works fine with rare failures. My Honda Accord that I put 240,000 miles on had a radiator trans cooler. No problems. My Subaru Outback with 320,000 miles has a radiator cooler. The radiator sprung a leak and I had to replace it around 20,000 miles ago, but no trans cooler failure. I talked with a service writer at my local Toyota Dealership who's been in the business for almost 30 years and I asked him about this potential problem and he can't remember ever hearing about it. I asked a mechanic I know who's been in the business for 30+ years and owns his own shop if he's ever had a Toyota transmission destroyed by this problem and he said no, but he's seen a few GM cars have it.
Frequenting this forum is great for all the shared knowledge but I also think it can put undo fear for certain problems that get blown out of proportion. But, make your own decisions on what's best for you. I'm just sharing my opinions here and not really looking to debate anyone on the right choice to make.
[MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION] is accurate regarding the temperature drop you can see when running the external cooler in series. This week, I drove up a 7 mile mountain road (OD off) before the install and saw trans temps up to the low 220's. I drove that same mountain road today (OD off again) and saw temps in the low 200's. So, you can pretty much rely on a 20 degree drop in temps. Is it worth the money spent and the time to install the cooler just to get a 20 degree drop? It is for me, because I plan on keeping my rig until it implodes and a 20 degree drop in temp, especially when the temps spike during more extreme driving situations, over the long haul could increase the life expectancy of my transmission. I do wonder though if the different tools to check trans temps, Scan Gauge vs a Blue Tooth scanner and using Torque Pro deliver different results. I'd be curious to hear from someone who's run both types if there is a difference.
Sorry for the long read but I had quite a bit to say. I did video this install and I'll get it posted after some much needed editing. I videoed the thing myself which was difficult at times with trying to get proper lighting and getting the camera angle right. It would have been nice to have [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] helping me, but he was working and I was chomping at the bit to get this job done.
