Transfer and differential Oil change

x67934

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I am at 30k and it is time to change the differential oil and the transfer case oil. It seems nearly impossible to find the 75w-85 that Toyota calls for in the diffs some I am using Mobil 1 75w-90. Now the transfer calls for 1.1QTs of SAE 75w, what weight are you all using, more 75w-90?

Does anyone know what the torque specs for the drain and fill bolts on the diff and transfer are? Does anyone know the part numbers for the crush washers? My local parts and service department is less than helpful. Thanks for the help.
 
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Transfer and diff oil change time @ 30K? Are you towing a lot? I dont think that Toyota calls for one that early.
 
The Diffs are called for ever 15k and the transfer at 30k. I have towed over 7k miles of the 30k I am going to do the maintenance.
 
Think I found the answers

Front Axle:
1.6QTs 75w-85 GL-5 I am substituting 75w-90 Mobil 1

Filler Torque: 29 ft/lbs

Drain Torque: 48 ft/lbs

Rear Axle:
2.9 QTs 75w-85 GL-5 I am again substituting 75w-90 Mobil 1

Filler Torque: 36 ft/lbs

Drain Torque: 36 ft/lbs

Transfer:
1.1 QTs SAE 75 I am going with 75w-90

Filler/Drain Torque: 27 ft/lbs

Still looking for the part numbers on the seals and looking for recommendations on what oil to use on the transfer. I am most likely going to go with 75w-90.

I will document to change and post a how to once complete.
 
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I have used Amsoil 75w 90 severe gear oil in an FJ diffs that I wheeled
So I would think that Mobil 1 75w 90 would work just fine
 
I use RedLine Shockproof oil in both my diffs, and RedLine 75w-90 in my x-fer case. Here are the part numbers for the crush washers on the 4th gen 4runner. Not sure if the drive-train is the same in the 5th gen.

Transmission Fill Plug Gasket -- 90301-15004
Transmission Drain Plug Gasket -- 35178-30010 -- $4.26
Transmission Level Check Plug Gasket -- 35178-30010 -- $4.26
Transfer Case Drain Plug Gasket -- 90430-18008 -- $1.55
Transfer Case Fill Plug Gasket -- 90430-18008 -- $1.55
Rear Differential Drain Plug Gasket -- 12157-10010 -- $2.51
Rear Differential Drain Fill Gasket -- 12157-10010 -- $2.51
Front Differential Fill Plug Gasket -- 90430-24003 -- $3.32
Front Differential Drain Plug Gasket -- 12157-10010 -- $2.50
 
FWIW I have been changing toyota diffs for 25 years and have neve ysed a new crush washer on the drain or fill and have never had a leak , come to think of it I have never used a torque wrench either , ya just get a feel for it after a while . I suggest using one though ya can't go wrong if ya do. I may even start also , getting old ya lose the fell of alot of things.:)
 
After reading several threads on this forum and the other forum I decided to change out my front/rear differential gear oil, transfer case gear oil, and grease the driveshaft.

The process was easier than I thought it would be for my first go around. I'm very happy I did this myself because the gear oils were dark, worst being the front diff, t-case, then rear diff. The u-joints on the driveshaft needed more grease, they "seemed" empty to me. Because of what I've read regarding over-greasing the slip yokes I decided to go with the recommended 3-5 pumps.

I used synthetic Mobil 1 75W-90 all around for the gear oils and synthetic Mobil 1 grease (pink stuff) for the driveshaft.

I didn't take any pictures because you can find plenty of them on the forums. If anyone wants to do this themselves, here is what you will need:

Differentials/Transfer Case
  • 6-7 quarts Mobil 1 75W-90
  • 5' tubing or gear oil pump
  • 24mm or 15/16" socket - for rear diff and t-case
  • 10mm hex key socket - for front diff
  • 13mm socket w/3" extension - to remove rear skid plate for access to the front diff
  • breaker bar
  • torque wrench
  • large oil pan

Always remove the filler plug before the drain plug. I started with the rear diff. Drain then torque the drain plug to 36 ft-lb (per repair manual). Fill to just below the fill plug opening (0-5mm from the bottom of the opening per repair manual). Torque the filler plug to 36 ft-lb.

Drain t-case and torque the drain plug to 27 ft-lb. Fill 0-5mm below fill plug opening. Torque the fill plug to 27 ft-lb.

Front diff. Remove rear skid by removing 6 retaining bolts -- two up front, two to access the engine oil drain, and two at the rear. Pull skid towards the rear or front (I can't remember) of the vehicle to remove. The fill & drain plugs will be on the driver's side. Drain and torque the drain plug to 48 ft-lb. Torque the fill plug to 29 ft-lb. Do not reattach skid plate.

Driveshaft

  • Mobil 1 grease
  • grease gun

There are 4 zerk fittings to grease the u-joints. One on the front driveshaft (near the front diff - why I didn't reattach the skid plate), second is before the front of the t-case, third is after the rear of the t-case, and the fourth is at the rear driveshaft (near the rear diff). Attach the the grease gun to each zerk and gently pump away until you see the pink Mobil 1 grease expressing from the u-joints to pump the old stuff out. You will hear a crackling noise when it starts to express. Wipe clean.

There are 2 slip yoke fittings to grease. One is next to the second zerk fitting before the front of the t-case and the second is next to the third zerk fitting after the t-case. I only applied 3-5 pumps of Mobil 1 grease because I was afraid of locking up the driveshaft by over-greasing. I also applied a thin layer of grease to the driveshaft body where it enters/exits the slip yoke. Reattach the skid plate and you're done!

This is actually quite easy to do for a first-timer. The hardest part was removing the grease gun from the zerk fittings. Now I need to learn how to change my own engine oil :biggrin2:
 
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Just replaced my rear differential oil at 30k miles with M1 75W-90. It was very dirty and there was a large amount of metal paste gunk on the drain plug magnet. Given the awful condition of the oil in the rear differential I would definitely recommend replacing the oil shortly after break-in and not going by the Toyota recommendation.

I also replaced the transfer case oil with M1 75W-90 and it was almost clean enough to gargle with. ;)

I ran out of time tonight to do the front diff. I'll report back on it's condition probably tomorrow night.
 
Just replaced my rear differential oil at 30k miles with M1 75W-90. It was very dirty and there was a large amount of metal paste gunk on the drain plug magnet. Given the awful condition of the oil in the rear differential I would definitely recommend replacing the oil shortly after break-in and not going by the Toyota recommendation.

I also replaced the transfer case oil with M1 75W-90 and it was almost clean enough to gargle with. ;)

I ran out of time tonight to do the front diff. I'll report back on it's condition probably tomorrow night.

Let me get this straight: You are telling people NOT to go with Toyota engineer's (the ones who design the drivetrain) recommendation of maintenance because A) You visually determined there was too much dirt and metal paste and B) The oil was in "awful" condition. Is this correct?
 
The purpose of the magnet is to catch those bits of metal. If there are chips or swarf on the magnet, that means the plug is doing its job. Gravity and the magnet mean that the metal won't be pulled back up into your spinning bits of the diff. Diffs are pretty beefy anyway. Engines and transmissions use magnets in the oil pans for the exact same reasons. As long as your oil isn't worn, no need to change it.
 
Just replaced my rear differential oil at 30k miles with M1 75W-90. It was very dirty and there was a large amount of metal paste gunk on the drain plug magnet. Given the awful condition of the oil in the rear differential I would definitely recommend replacing the oil shortly after break-in and not going by the Toyota recommendation.

I also replaced the transfer case oil with M1 75W-90 and it was almost clean enough to gargle with. ;)

I ran out of time tonight to do the front diff. I'll report back on it's condition probably tomorrow night.

If it really was that bad, sounds to me like you may have more going on back there then just normal wear.......just sayin.
 
As promised here what I saw when replacing the front differential oil. Once again I went with M1 Synthetic 75W-90. The front differential was at least as "awful" as the rear. There was a large amount of metallic paste on the drain plug magnet as you can see in the pic below:

2011-09-22_20-12-03_469.jpg


It was a little difficult getting a clear picture of the gunk with my phone camera but that large black blob on the towel isn't a smudge but a large glob of metal paste that I half wiped off the drain plug.

I also observed metal particulates in the oil itself, despite the presence of a magnet on the drain plug. I believe this is due to the metal glob on the magnet being larger than it can effectively retain within the swirling stream of oil passing over it.

If I knew previously what I know now I would have changed the oil in both differentials shortly after break-in and then every 15k miles until the amount of break in metals dropped off. Obviously differentials are pretty resilient but I'd still prefer to not run them with metal suspended in the oil.
 
Let me get this straight: You are telling people NOT to go with Toyota engineer's (the ones who design the drivetrain) recommendation of maintenance because A) You visually determined there was too much dirt and metal paste and B) The oil was in "awful" condition. Is this correct?

I don't generally respond to sarcasm but you do bring up a point worth considering. Toyota obviously has some of the best vehicle engineers in the industry. However, how much of these maintenance recommendations are based on good engineering, research and science vs marketing, environmental, and cost of operations considerations? Like any large organization I'm sure Toyota has it's share of internal political drivers that go in to these types of recommendations. Additionally, the optimal longevity maintenance interval for a 4Runner driving soccer mom is very likely not the same as what would be best for my 4Runner given how I drive it.
 
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I don't generally respond to sarcasm but you do bring up a point worth considering. Toyota obviously has some of the best vehicle engineers in the industry. However, how much of these maintenance recommendations are based on good engineering, research and science vs marketing, environmental, and cost of operations considerations? Like any large organization I'm sure Toyota has it's share of internal political drivers that go in to these types of recommendations. Additionally, the optimal longevity maintenance interval for a 4Runner driving soccer mom is very likely not the same as what would be best for my 4Runner given how I drive it.

If I were you, I would send away for an analysis. What I meant by my other post is that visual observations mean absolutely nothing unless looking for something catastrophic. Another thing that I find funny is justification for oil change intervals with no concrete data other than "I towed some" or "I live in a dusty environment" or something like that. Someone who represents Toyota (engineers, techs, lawers, marketing, other) determined we can go 10K between changes on engine and longer than that with diff and even longer on transmission. I don't really care who as Toyota is willing to stand behind their word. 10K matches what I know from my off highway design experience and if anything is a little short. Again, we all know changing your fluids on shorter intervals won't make anyone go broke or really hurt anything except possible introduction of contaminants during changes. So, have at it but don't depend on your eyes when a lab can give you much bettter results.
 

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