Transfer and differential Oil change

[renau001]

Thanks for the info. I don't have any 24 mm sockets, so that will go on my shopping list!

I won't be changing fluids for awhile, but I do like to check those levels ocassionally, so I might as well get prepared now.

Recommend a shallow 3/8” drive with 3/8” breaker bar if your shopping. Either 24mm or 15/16” will work. I use 15/16” as it’s a little more snug of a fit.

 

[702_SR5]

Ha, I just realized I do have a 15/16" socket (but it's 12-point and not shallow): It's the size I needed to remove the oil filter cap on the old Wrangler! :redface:

 

[renau001]

Ha, I just realized I do have a 15/16" socket (but it's 12-point and not shallow): It's the size I needed to remove the oil filter cap on the old Wrangler! :redface:

just be careful not to round off bolts if you decide to go with that one

 

[Captsolo]

As promised here what I saw when replacing the front differential oil. Once again I went with M1 Synthetic 75W-90. The front differential was at least as "awful" as the rear. There was a large amount of metallic paste on the drain plug magnet as you can see in the pic below:

It was a little difficult getting a clear picture of the gunk with my phone camera but that large black blob on the towel isn't a smudge but a large glob of metal paste that I half wiped off the drain plug.

I also observed metal particulates in the oil itself, despite the presence of a magnet on the drain plug. I believe this is due to the metal glob on the magnet being larger than it can effectively retain within the swirling stream of oil passing over it.

If I knew previously what I know now I would have changed the oil in both differentials shortly after break-in and then every 15k miles until the amount of break in metals dropped off. Obviously differentials are pretty resilient but I'd still prefer to not run them with metal suspended in the oil.

Those metal bits and pieces will not suspend in the oil. They fall to the bottom and just sit there.

100,000 miles on differential fluid conventional or synthetic is good enough IMO. Once a year.

Read differential gears are amazingly tough. I've never had a failure of one in any of the many cars and SUVs I've owned.

My 4runner (150,000 miles from new) owners manual provides no interval for checking differential, but since it is just two bolts, just drain and fill and forgetaboutit. JMHO

 

[krravi]

Anyone used these refillable squeeze pouches for gear oil and what are your thoughts on ease of using this?

EZ SQUEEZE FILLABLE OIL POUCH KIT | Race German

 

[1000MPH]

Seems an overpriced solution but maybe so was mine when I made this fluid transfer pump.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/117482-front-rear-diff-fluid-change-12.html#post3525463

 

[1jzgte]

Seems an overpriced solution but maybe so was mine when I made this fluid transfer pump.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/117482-front-rear-diff-fluid-change-12.html#post3525463

i was able to route a hose to the fill tube with a hose/funnel combo through the wheel well for the rear diff.. was also able to change trans fluid and front diff with the same funnel/hose set up.. let gravity do the work that way you can completely empty your bottles

 

[BorotHex]

I changed the rear diff at 13k or so and while it was very dark, that’s obviously because the factory fill was just that color. It’s not dark because it’s cooked. It’s probably best to leave it at least 25k or more. I put in Redline with a transfer pump fwiw.

 

[osugsxr]

started stripping the front diff drain plug and stopped, could probably heat it up and get it out still.

 

[1jzgte]

started stripping the front diff drain plug and stopped, could probably heat it up and get it out still.

frustrating.. those 10mm hex are just asking to be stripped especially when supposed to be torqued that high from factory. I stripped a camry transmission hex when I was trying to torque it to 30ft/lbs. Got sloppy and didnt insert the hex key all the way into the bolt as i began to torque.

 

[osugsxr]

frustrating.. those 10mm hex are just asking to be stripped especially when supposed to be torqued that high from factory. I stripped a camry transmission hex when I was trying to torque it to 30ft/lbs. Got sloppy and didnt insert the hex key all the way into the bolt as i began to torque.

yes it is, first turn it start to strip so I stopped and need to take a different approach. Trying to find a replacement one without the hex as well.