Transfer Case differences ?
- Thread starter sooperedd
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
delloro
New member
They are different models.
The dial-type uses electric motor actuators at the end of the transfer case. The lever type is actuated by the lever from the top.
The gear forks are likely different, the shafts they fide upon appear different in the parts diagram. The shafts will ride in different holes in the front and rear of the case, I don't know if those cases are the same or not. Both sets of holes may not be finished.
I did a rough tally of what the new parts may cost, and it looked all too easy to exceed $500.
I decided I would be better off buying a low-mile case from a junkyard and swapping them out.
The dial-type uses electric motor actuators at the end of the transfer case. The lever type is actuated by the lever from the top.
The gear forks are likely different, the shafts they fide upon appear different in the parts diagram. The shafts will ride in different holes in the front and rear of the case, I don't know if those cases are the same or not. Both sets of holes may not be finished.
I did a rough tally of what the new parts may cost, and it looked all too easy to exceed $500.
I decided I would be better off buying a low-mile case from a junkyard and swapping them out.
delloro
New member
Jetboy we have a very very different understanding of this. I will post links to what I found when I get home tonight, could you please do the same?
As I understand it, the lever-shift model is the VF2AM, and the electronic-shift model is the VF2BM.
Your way sounds way better, hope you are right.
Last edited:
Jetboy
New member
After a bit of research I think you are correct. It's different from my last 4runner which had push button 4x4 and lever actuated low range. The new VF2A moves the shifting to a single rear actuator with 3 positions: 2h, 4h, and 4L all in one long shaft movement by an actuator on the rear of the case. The top shift location has been plated off entirely.
Here's a pic of the two different top plates removed:
So - no twin stick option for the sr5 without a different transfer case/internal parts swap. 2 low is pretty easy to do electronically by not engaging the front ADD, but i'm not sure how much utility that would have for most of us.
Externally they are virtually identical looking.
Last edited:
Jeremy556
New member
sooperedd
Member
Doh, you're right they are chain driven. Googled the model number and found the specs.
Toyota has been using them a long time. Interesting.
The same website had the specs on the transfer case that was in my '85 pickup.
wfo9
New member
Just an FYI, the sr5 and trail both had the same manual transfer case until 2013. Not sure what triggered them to change it in 2013 on the sr5. i figured it was related to volume and the fact that the Taco used the motor driven model. Also, both models still have a motor driven actuator to engage passenger side CV axle (ADD). It seems pretty reliable, but I have seen one fail to function and leave an FJ SOL.
Last edited:
sooperedd
Member
What is this?
I have seen "ADD" referenced in a few threads but didn't know what it means.
Jeremy556
New member
A sliding collar, just to the right of the front diff, which disconnects the passenger side axle. With the passenger side axle disconnected, only the side gears in the diff turn. R&P and front drive shaft don't turn, improving fuel economy, (slightly) less wear, etc.
wfo9
New member
^^^ what he said. Just think of it as being equivalent to auto-locking hubs. The only issue with it is that if the motor does not actuate and the collar does not slide... no 4wd. The front drive shaft will spin, but the diff will put all the power to the disconnected side.
Point is, manual T-case is not manual 4wd engagement.
Point is, manual T-case is not manual 4wd engagement.
Jetboy
New member
The ADD actuator is what has been the most common failure part on tacomas and FJ Cruisers with the electric shifting transfer case. Not sure why they fail more often than the transfer case actuator, but that seems to be the case. Probably because they spend more time under water. If you wanted greater reliability - I'd look for a way to make a cable actuation for the ADD first.
crunchcity
New member
Yep, had the ADD fail on my old Tacoma during a snowstorm lol when I tried to shift into 4WD with my manual transfer case lever. :eyebrows: Right at around 60,000 miles on the odo.
The ADD actuator had to be replaced...
The ADD actuator had to be replaced...
sooperedd
Member
So you could still move just not in 4WD?
crunchcity
New member
Correct, 2WD only.
sooperedd
Member
Thanks for the explanation. Got it.
Doesn't seem like it would save that much gas to add a feature that is problematic.
I'm trying to decide between new SR5 and a Trail. Don't really need the TE as you can see in my avatar, but I'm not a fan of the transfer case dial in the SR5 and would prefer the lever for obvious reasons.
So I'm thinking I probably wouldn't use the 4WD a bunch unless I park the Burb and only use that for the extreme stuff, which is rare, and use the 4runner more.
I was eyeballing the new '16 Tacoma but I don't think I want to Beta test it. I've had some minor problems with my RAV4 due to first year stuff, love it, but based on that I would rather get the 4Runner because it's been out for a few years now. Plus I told my wife 20 years ago when I had my pickup I was going to get a 4Runner.
Last edited:
1engineer
Moderator
The ADD is not "problematic" any more than anything else. But like everything else it can be broken. Out of the 250,000+ 5th gen 4Runners and FJ's the ADD breakage is minimal, even for the hard core off roaders.
I have owned the 4Runner with the lever and now I own one with a dial. No difference in the end result.