MountainBiker
Member
I should mention my complete set of fixes for the multi-mode transfer case hitting the Savage Skid:
- removed teeny little OEM skid and rubber damper from the TC
- Installed a new OEM transmission mount, this raised the TC >1/4"
- installed a 1/2" thick HDPE spacer at the back of the Savage skid, between it and the frame crossmember. Tap Plastics cut the spacer to my sketch, which matches the full contact area between the frame and skid. I even had them drill the two holes for the two bolts. Can't recall the price, but it was certainly under $15.
Before you think you have a complete solution, drive on bumpy ground in 4wd, with the window open to listen for contact. You need a driveline load on the TC to get the Engine/Trans/TC assembly to flex through it's full range of motion on the motor mounts and transmission mount. And the contact is most obvious when you excite a resonant frequency in your driveline, so a single bump may not show it up. When I had Tap Plastics make my 1/2" thick mount, I also bought a 1/4" mount, and before i installed the new trans mount, I needed to stack both spacers. I really, really don't want to damage the aluminum transfer case by banging it against the 3/16" steel skid, so I made sure that contact never happens with my rig, your results may vary. Of course, if I ever bend the skid, all bets are off!
FYI, if I didn't go off-pavement (washboard makes the contact the worst), I could probably get away without the spacer. But then why would I need these super heavy, suspension sagging skids? Not knocking the weight of the skids, as they are built to the proper strength if you intend to drag and/or rest the weight of the vehicle on them.
- removed teeny little OEM skid and rubber damper from the TC
- Installed a new OEM transmission mount, this raised the TC >1/4"
- installed a 1/2" thick HDPE spacer at the back of the Savage skid, between it and the frame crossmember. Tap Plastics cut the spacer to my sketch, which matches the full contact area between the frame and skid. I even had them drill the two holes for the two bolts. Can't recall the price, but it was certainly under $15.
Before you think you have a complete solution, drive on bumpy ground in 4wd, with the window open to listen for contact. You need a driveline load on the TC to get the Engine/Trans/TC assembly to flex through it's full range of motion on the motor mounts and transmission mount. And the contact is most obvious when you excite a resonant frequency in your driveline, so a single bump may not show it up. When I had Tap Plastics make my 1/2" thick mount, I also bought a 1/4" mount, and before i installed the new trans mount, I needed to stack both spacers. I really, really don't want to damage the aluminum transfer case by banging it against the 3/16" steel skid, so I made sure that contact never happens with my rig, your results may vary. Of course, if I ever bend the skid, all bets are off!
FYI, if I didn't go off-pavement (washboard makes the contact the worst), I could probably get away without the spacer. But then why would I need these super heavy, suspension sagging skids? Not knocking the weight of the skids, as they are built to the proper strength if you intend to drag and/or rest the weight of the vehicle on them.
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