Some people will tell you to avoid this, but I like it.
I'm running a BudBuilt Clocking ring on my Runner right now. It clocks the t-case 10-15*. IDK if Bud still makes them, but give him a call and see.
You're going to need to run a 2" BL, or cut a hole in floor board underneath the seat in order to get it to clear the body.
You're also going to have to modify your shifter, but Bud should have the plans for that as well.
You're going to want to make sure that you've got some "Right Stuff" gasket sealer as well.
I've had two issues with mine, both from me not checking things.
One was the fact that I couldn't shift into 4L, but a SMALL amount f trimming with a Dremel on the t-case adapter took care of that.
The second was I broke a couple of the bolts when I went wheeling, because I didn't have them tight enough.
I'm not going to lie to you, getting it on is a bit of a PITA, but it increases your ground clearance, and will help with your issues you're experiencing.
Keep in mind, IF you raise the transmission, you run the risk of breaking it, because it's not inline with the motor. This happened to my brother. He made a crossmember, like mine, lifting the trans 1.5", but DIDN'T raise his motor. His transmission grenaded on him going down the interstate.
Here's some Pics of the Clocking ring. It bolts to the t-case, then to the t-case adapter. You need to drill out a few holes on the t-case adapter to make it work.
Clocking ring on the t-case:
T-case adapter shaving:
The hole I had to cut and box.
Here, you can see my flat belly. Notice how the t-case doesn't stick out from under the frame rails, compared to the earlier picture.
The reason I still have the mounting locations for the stock crossmember is because that's what the gas tank bolts onto. I need to get to working on my custom tank again, unless I can find a way to lift the tank as High as I want it.