Transmission Cooler or New Radiator?

quatin

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http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...radiator-design-questions-pink-milkshake.html

I just saw the above thread about the pink milkshake and now I'm nervous. I would like to do something about it, but I'd like some advice on whether to get the transmission oil cooler or not.

The thread lists the "Long Tru-Cool LPD Cooler SR4454 ", however it is labeled for a sub-compact car. The LPD4490 is listed for a truck, is there a reason he suggested the smallest one?

I've had the coolant replaced at 30k intervals. However, I had a fender bender several years ago that crushed the front grill and bent the frame such that the radiator caves in a bit in the middle. The repair shop didn't see a need to replace it. It's been working fine ever since, but it's now 13 years old. Point being, I could use a new radiator, however I don't like fixing things that aren't broken.

A koyo radiator is about $150 shipped. A Long Tru-Cool LPD4490 is $80 shipped. Is there any benefit at all in getting the transmission cooler other than to isolate the oil? Is the cooling capacity better with a new radiator? For only $70 more it seems like I could be fixing the actual problem instead of installing a security buffer.
 
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IMO, new radiator. They should be replaced after a while anyways, might as well do it now with a dented one.

If you have the funds and depending on your location, I would say do both if you can.
 
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...radiator-design-questions-pink-milkshake.html

I just saw the above thread about the pink milkshake and now I'm nervous. I would like to do something about it, but I'd like some advice on whether to get the transmission oil cooler or not.

The thread lists the "Long Tru-Cool LPD Cooler SR4454 ", however it is labeled for a sub-compact car. The LPD4490 is listed for a truck, is there a reason he suggested the smallest one?

I've had the coolant replaced at 30k intervals. However, I had a fender bender several years ago that crushed the front grill and bent the frame such that the radiator caves in a bit in the middle. The repair shop didn't see a need to replace it. It's been working fine ever since, but it's now 13 years old. Point being, I could use a new radiator, however I don't like fixing things that aren't broken.

A koyo radiator is about $150 shipped. A Long Tru-Cool LPD4490 is $80 shipped. Is there any benefit at all in getting the transmission cooler other than to isolate the oil? Is the cooling capacity better with a new radiator? For only $70 more it seems like I could be fixing the actual problem instead of installing a security buffer.


I would do both, but that's me. :) If I had to pick, I'd just get the external cooler. The external cooler will keep the transmission fluid cooler than the factory cooler, if you use the correct external cooler. A B&M 70268 works perfect for cold climates, or if you don't tow. A B&M 70264 is perfect for if you live in a warmer climate, tow, or do a lot of stop and go driving in summer traffic, etc.

I like the B&M cooler's, because they have a LPD design that lets the cold fluid flow correctly until it's warmed up.
 
Lol, love this forum. 2 replies within 10 minutes at 1:30 am.

I hear that the transmission cooler can increase the life of the transmission, but I can't find the specifications in the repair manual to quantify how much better the external cooler is and hence, which cooler to get. How did you arrive at your choices? I'm in Florida and the biggest thing I haul around is a kayak.
 
Lol, love this forum. 2 replies within 10 minutes at 1:30 am.

I hear that the transmission cooler can increase the life of the transmission, but I can't find the specifications in the repair manual to quantify how much better the external cooler is and hence, which cooler to get. How did you arrive at your choices? I'm in Florida and the biggest thing I haul around is a kayak.

It's only 11 PM on the West coast, which is why I'm still up. You're not going to find that kind of info in the manual. I never found an answer to the question "Which one is right for me?" You would need to get one that is as big or bigger than the cooler in the rad. But I never found the capacity of the OE rad in BTUH anywhere. Try giving this a read:
http://www.bmracing.com/bmracing/images/bm_cooler_techdoc.pdf
Like most things, bigger is usually better. Some guys on here have put smaller coolers in and found that they were not beneficial. So do yourself a favor and find all the threads you can, from guys who have put them in. Maybe of all the different sizes, there is a "happy medium."
 
You really cant go wrong either way, just do atleast one of them.. and soon!

With coolers, I agree with the others, B&M is better than TruCool. And in florida I would recommend the 70264, which is the bigger of the two B&M coolers. The 70268 is better for those who see colder temps, like those in colorado and the rest of the north states.


I have the 70268, as you can see in my sig. And it does just fine for me. Seeing as I use my truck as a "snowboard rig" in the winter, it was logical to choose the 70268.
 
I wouldn't go with the Tru-Cool 4454...I had it on my 4Runner for a while but I'm sure that it was running hotter than it should. The weather here is always warm so I didn't see much harm in going bigger so I swapped the 4454 for a much bigger B&M unit. Personally I would just go ahead and change the radiator too while you are at it...just changed mine today to a Koyo for peace of mind
 
With a 13 year old damaged rad, I'd go against the majority and suggest that should be replaced 1st. With you being in Florida though, you really would stand to benefit from an external cooler as well. In a perfect world, both would get done.

I think if you are planning on adding the external cooler, you can get away with the rad for a manual tranny, which doesn't have the integrated cooler built in, might be a bit cheaper?
 
Radiator. Since you don't tow you won't have to worry about heat too much. If you really want it you can do the external cooler later on, but it wouldn't be a must.
 
Radiator first, then B&M 70264.

When replacing the radiator, replace the hoses with OEM ones as well as the cap and the thermostat.
 
Alright, I'll go ahead and get the radiator. I'm going to need it sooner or later right? However, I'm still not convinced on the transmission cooler. Without knowing the specs of the radiator cooling system for the transmission oil, how do you know the external transmission cooler is even necessary or better?
 
The reason most people do the external cooler is to separate the trans fluid from the radiator fluid so that if there is a failure on either they do not mix(milkshake).
 
Alright, I'll go ahead and get the radiator. I'm going to need it sooner or later right? However, I'm still not convinced on the transmission cooler. Without knowing the specs of the radiator cooling system for the transmission oil, how do you know the external transmission cooler is even necessary or better?

The reason most people do the external cooler is to separate the trans fluid from the radiator fluid so that if there is a failure on either they do not mix(milkshake).

Bang on, however, replacing the rad will negate the chance of failure in the near future IMO. To test if an external cooler is needed in the absence of the risk of rad/cooler failure, you could use a scanguage2 or other monitoring device to see what your tranny temp is doing under various conditions. If you're not towing, odds are you don't need one. They are popular due to the risk of "pink milkshake" as much as towing I'm sure.
 
With a 13 year old damaged rad, I'd go against the majority and suggest that should be replaced 1st. With you being in Florida though, you really would stand to benefit from an external cooler as well. In a perfect world, both would get done.

I think if you are planning on adding the external cooler, you can get away with the rad for a manual tranny, which doesn't have the integrated cooler built in, might be a bit cheaper?

too bad you cant get a manual tranny rad, not even from toyota, every rad you get from them, even if you give them the vin for your truck and its a manual truck, will be for an auto, its something stupid toyota does just to "be safe". i dont know of a place that sells a rad for our trucks or the taco that doesnt have the imputs for the AT.

and to the OP, you will want a tranny cooler i have a document(ill try and get it posted here) that states(yeah i know it could be from fox news) temps over 200 can start to drastically shorten the life expectancy of your trans. by simply adding a cooler your not only will cool your temps but increase capacity withc is imo just as big of a benefit as cooler temps.

here is a link to what i came up with with a quick google search, now take into account that this guys is speaking of constant temps which for the most part is unrealistic but it gives you an idea of the (potential) damage that can occur with higher temps fluid temp versus transmission life expectancy - Bob Is The Oil Guy and here is a way over blown but yeah you can still get an idea of whats being said trans temp chart.jpg
i cant find that doc i had laying around but if i do ill post it as well...
 

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How do you find out what temperature your transmission oil is at? 200C is pretty hot and I surely would've burnt myself when I did my last transmission oil change. I'll get the BM trans cooler. I've spent $80 on dumber things, but I'd still like to know if anyone has done some tests on their transmission temperature with the stock radiator cooler.
 
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How do you find out what temperature your transmission oil is at? 200C is pretty hot and I surely would've burnt myself when I did my last transmission oil change.

i have a trans temp gauge as well as two coolers, a B&M 70624 and a perma cool with a 10" electric fan on a thermo switch. i still see temps over 200 with mine, but driving on the freeway they stay around 150 or so but in town they can climb to 200 and if im climbing a hill or pulling a load at lower speeds say below 35mph then it will really climb. but i also have stock gears(4.10:1) and E rated 285s on 17s with full skids(motor, belly, and tank) along with sliders so ive got a lot of extra weight(thus the second cooler). my temp gauge is before my coolers so im reading the hottest temps. i have an auto meter gauge that ranges from 100-250 and i have pegged my gauge several times and once it gets that hot it takes quite some time for the temps to come back down, so i was looking at those temps for over 30min sometimes. here are some pics of my gauge and coolers ect.
IMAG0394.jpg
this one is just from climbing a long grade at the base of mt st helens it was a two lane mt road with a lot of switch backs so i could only really ever get up to maybe 45mph and that was having to push/work it
IMAG0421.jpg
this one is just sitting in traffic in portland or, it was only in the mid 80s that day but i was in rush hour and it was stop and go for over an hour
IMAG0423.jpg
this just shows my engine temps as well...
IMAG0424.jpg
this was another day when i was out wheeling, i actually had the idiot light come one in the dash for my trans temp, i pegged the gauge so i have no idea how hot i actually was(this was before the perma cool w/fan install)
IMAG0507.jpg
this is a pic of my set up with the dual coolers
IMAG0508.jpg
this is my perma cool cooler with the 10" electric fan
IMAG0509.jpg
this is my B&M 70624 cooler which i initially installed only to find out it was not enough and could not keep up
IMAG0514.jpg
this is my secondary inline filter that i also installed cheap only about $8 if i remember right but well worth the peace of mind imo

i think all together im in it
$65 or so for the B&M
$50 for the auto meter gauge
$110 for the perma cool with fan
$18 for the thermo switch for the fan
$8 for the inline filter
$16-20 for the 3/8s trans line
$20 for the pillar mount for the gauge

sure its kinda spendy but it beats the $3000 for a new tranny or a tranny overhaul
 

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