Transmission Cooler

[MENTION=146684]WallyT4R[/MENTION] thanks for your reply I went for a trip and my temperature was between 100C to 120C most of the times I didn't get the light come on the dash for overheating the transmission. At some points it was running at 90C I will try to install that after market cooler later but I really think I will need to get a vehicle with a bit more towing capacity.
 
Heat sink transmission cooler, anyone?

Hello,

My mechanic is recommending that I use a heat sink type cooler for my transmission. These are compact and from reading they have a good reputation in racing applications.

Has anyone tried one in their truck? If so, any ideas for where to mount it?

https://www.etrailer.com/p-D13265.html

Sounds like it could be mounted to the frame.

Thanks,
Keith
 
Hello,

My mechanic is recommending that I use a heat sink type cooler for my transmission. These are compact and from reading they have a good reputation in racing applications.

Has anyone tried one in their truck? If so, any ideas for where to mount it?

https://www.etrailer.com/p-D13265.html

Sounds like it could be mounted to the frame.

Thanks,
Keith

I've never used them, I've seen them used though, mostly on custom applications. I see it being easier to mount, but I'd think the normal type is more efficient.
 
Does my 2017 come with a factory external tranny cooler?

Seen this post yesterday and wasn't sure if my 2017 OR came with an external tranny cooler. Took a look tonite and it was hard to see the AC condenser, and it did not look like there was one.

My 2015 Tacoma OR had one and also had a tow rating of 6400#. Was wondering why the tow capacity of the 4R was only 5000#, maybe this is why.

Think I had one of those Hayden coolers before, they were pretty easy to install. Need to read this whole post still but its getting late.

Am surprised as others that this wasn't a factory item, due to my past experience I would never tow anything without an external cooler so this is lookin like one of my first mods.
 
Will the Tacoma oem oil cooler fit the T4R? Would be nice to keep it all OEM

Should be almost identical power train wise
 
After reading all the posts I thought I would chime in. Before I purchased my 2010 4 Runner I read the fine details. According to the factory, in order to tow 5,000 Lbs the Runner should be equipped with 1) an aux. tranny cooler, 2) a brake controller.

Can anyone verify that the owners manual states that an aftermarket cooler needs to be installed to tow trailers close to the 5,000 lb. rating? I have a 2015 Trail Premium and read the section on towing and did not see any mention of a cooler. I did see the notation on brake controllers.

Thanks
 
Your 4Runner comes pre-wired for a brake controller. All you need to do is purchase a decent brake controller and a short wiring harness for your vehicle. It's basically "plug and play" installation. No wire slicing or long wire runs will be required.
As far as towing a 5000 lb. load, I'm not sure. Technically these new transmissions don't use the torque converter as much as the old transmissions. This leads to much lower operating temperatures. Slow, stop and go traffic will definitely overheat the transmission when towing.

I'm thinking about installing an external trans cooler on my 2016 SR5 model. It will require an additional thermostat to keep the transmission from getting too cold in cold weather. Trans oil temperature MUST get above 160 deg. F. to operate properly. Cold temps may cause premature oil failure due to excessive moisture. Transmission may not shift properly as well.
I'm thinking about installing a transmission oil thermostat from a newer model Tundra. Has anyone tried this?
 
Your 4Runner comes pre-wired for a brake controller. All you need to do is purchase a decent brake controller and a short wiring harness for your vehicle. It's basically "plug and play" installation. No wire slicing or long wire runs will be required.
As far as towing a 5000 lb. load, I'm not sure. Technically these new transmissions don't use the torque converter as much as the old transmissions. This leads to much lower operating temperatures. Slow, stop and go traffic will definitely overheat the transmission when towing.

I'm thinking about installing an external trans cooler on my 2016 SR5 model. It will require an additional thermostat to keep the transmission from getting too cold in cold weather. Trans oil temperature MUST get above 160 deg. F. to operate properly. Cold temps may cause premature oil failure due to excessive moisture. Transmission may not shift properly as well.
I'm thinking about installing a transmission oil thermostat from a newer model Tundra. Has anyone tried this?

Transmission fluid temp does not need to get to 160 degrees to operate properly. Moisture is not introduced into a transmission like an engine is. Minus the breather/overflow vent, which is very small, it is a sealed unit.

Models equipped with an ATF cooler have a transmission oil thermostat to switch the ATF passages. The transmission oil thermostat consists of the poppet valve, bypass valve and element case. When the ATF temperature changes from low to high, the wax will expand to start to open the poppet valve and close the bypass valve, thus switching the ATF passages.

The main reason Toyota and other manufactures add a ATF warmer is for improved fuel economy. When the new model 4R comes out I am pretty certain it will have an ATF warmer as it will more than likely have a new/different type of transmission. The A750E/A750F transmissions have been in use in the 4R's since 2003. They are very good transmissions but are getting outdated.
 
After going back and forth between the B&M 70264 and TRU-Cool LPD4588 I ordered the B&M 70264 because it was Prime next day eligible. To my surprise, the B&M was stamped "LONG Made in Mexico", the exact same as the TRU-Cool LPD4588. These two appear to be the exact same unit so don't be like me and waffle over which one to get.:doh:
 
Transmission fluid temp does not need to get to 160 degrees to operate properly. Moisture is not introduced into a transmission like an engine is. Minus the breather/overflow vent, which is very small, it is a sealed unit.

Models equipped with an ATF cooler have a transmission oil thermostat to switch the ATF passages. The transmission oil thermostat consists of the poppet valve, bypass valve and element case. When the ATF temperature changes from low to high, the wax will expand to start to open the poppet valve and close the bypass valve, thus switching the ATF passages.

The main reason Toyota and other manufactures add a ATF warmer is for improved fuel economy. When the new model 4R comes out I am pretty certain it will have an ATF warmer as it will more than likely have a new/different type of transmission. The A750E/A750F transmissions have been in use in the 4R's since 2003. They are very good transmissions but are getting outdated.

Where are the poppet and bypass valves? I just recently bypassed my radiator and I'm currently using the OEM and an aftermarket 6 Series 19 Row Setrab oil cooler in-line with each other.

I believe condensation will still form in the transmission after cooling down. If the transmission is over 100 degrees for more than 10min, it should evaporate the water. It may take a bit longer in colder climates due to more condensation build up.
 
I am looking into purchasing a bigger boat that will weigh upwards of 3800lbs with boat, motor, fuel and trailer.

With this in mind I am using the search function !!!! :rofl:

Found this thread on transmission coolers since I plan to perform this upgrade with the increased towing work load.

This video from e-trailer is very relevant to this thread, hope it helps some folks out.:bluejump::tea:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voplmkru63A
 
I did install a transmission oil cooler and a 180 degrees F. thermostat on my 2016 4Runner.
I purchased the largest cooler that was available and ordered a 180 deg. transmission oil thermostat from Amazon.
I'll be happy to answer any questions.

Just an FYI:
The existing cooler (heat exchanger) is located inside the radiator. It's on the bottom of the radiator. Inlet is on the passenger side, outlet on the driver side. The additional cooler will connect to the driver side of the radiator.
Mount the new cooler so the inlet is on the bottom and outlet on top. This will eliminate any air pockets and thus improve cooling efficiency.
 
I am looking into purchasing a bigger boat that will weigh upwards of 3800lbs with boat, motor, fuel and trailer.

With this in mind I am using the search function !!!! :rofl:

Found this thread on transmission coolers since I plan to perform this upgrade with the increased towing work load.

This video from e-trailer is very relevant to this thread, hope it helps some folks out.:bluejump::tea:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voplmkru63A
[MENTION=168203]SurlyGreyMan[/MENTION]


That video has several major flaws. I made several comments but they keep deleting them.

They advised to determine the inlet and return by tamperature. This is wrong. As a result, they connected the cooler lines to the wrong side of the radiator!

They attached the new cooler to the aluminum bumper and the upper brace. Do not do this! The bumper moves in relation to the upper support brace, because the vehicle frame moves in relation to the body (separated by rubber mounts). This will cause premature cracks and eventual failure.

Auxiliary cooler being this far from the radiator will no be very efficient at low speed (when it's needed most).
 
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I did install a transmission oil cooler and a 180 degrees F. thermostat on my 2016 4Runner.
I purchased the largest cooler that was available and ordered a 180 deg. transmission oil thermostat from Amazon.
I'll be happy to answer any questions.

Just an FYI:
The existing cooler (heat exchanger) is located inside the radiator. It's on the bottom of the radiator. Inlet is on the passenger side, outlet on the driver side. The additional cooler will connect to the driver side of the radiator.
Mount the new cooler so the inlet is on the bottom and outlet on top. This will eliminate any air pockets and thus improve cooling efficiency.

I don't plan on installing a thermostat. I just don't think it is necessary as the temp of the trans fluid has no bearing on performance as far I as know...Anyway....

I have a question for you. How did you determine the fluid level after the install? Did you follow the factory service manual way (which is a total pain) or use some other method?

I was planning on timing my install with getting the trans serviced at the dealer at 30,000 miles cuz I just don't want to deal with the factory method of determining the proper fluid level in the trans. But I heard the service is $400 and if there is an easier way I would love to hear it.... Thanks!
 
I am looking into purchasing a bigger boat that will weigh upwards of 3800lbs with boat, motor, fuel and trailer.

With this in mind I am using the search function !!!! :rofl:

Found this thread on transmission coolers since I plan to perform this upgrade with the increased towing work load.

This video from e-trailer is very relevant to this thread, hope it helps some folks out.:bluejump::tea:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voplmkru63A

3800lbs wet is well below your tow rating, you don't need anything special. The SAE test to determing the towing capacity involves a starting from a stop on 12% grade multiple times in a row, as well as a long hill climb in 100 degree weather with the AC on max -- you'll be fine towing 75% of your towing capacity in florida
 
You can stick your "Government Motors" up your Alice Cooper look-a-like rectum. GM quality has dropped like a lead loaf, and people like you buy into the media propaganda. News bulletin "Einstein". If the US gov owns 51% of GM, you better believe they will do anything to TRY & make "GM" the worlds largest auto manufacturer. Including lying and witch hunting foreign auto manufacturers. FACT ! They will NEVER produce the quality of Japanese vehicles.

Gstick is right on!!! GM is the WORST POS made period. That includes lesser brands such as Hyundai and Kia. I am ashamed to say I have owned their shitty vehicles in the past. My ‘01 Tundra with original motor and drivetrain is testament to the quality of the Yota product. I has never leaked a drop and still gets same mileage as the day I bought it. Nuff said. I plan on keeping it in addition to the ‘19 Pro I will buy in the next year. Great forum you have here!
 
I don't plan on installing a thermostat. I just don't think it is necessary as the temp of the trans fluid has no bearing on performance as far I as know...Anyway....

I have a question for you. How did you determine the fluid level after the install? Did you follow the factory service manual way (which is a total pain) or use some other method?

I was planning on timing my install with getting the trans serviced at the dealer at 30,000 miles cuz I just don't want to deal with the factory method of determining the proper fluid level in the trans. But I heard the service is $400 and if there is an easier way I would love to hear it.... Thanks!

What makes you think that the dealer technician will follow all proper procedures? I used to work at a dealership. Oil change is usually done by the least qualified technician. I would never let them change oil in my vehicle. I'm not saying that all Toyota techs are dumb but I'm not willing to play a "Russian roulette" game with servicing my transmission. I did not even let them do a free engine oil change and did it myself with a much better Amsoil 0W-20 Signature oil.

I managed to install the cooler without hardly spilling any fluid. A few drops dropped on the catch pan but it's negligible.
The new cooler and additional hoses don't take much fluid. It's definitely not enough to make a noticeable change in transmission fluid level in the transmission. I decided not to mess with adding any fluid at this time.

What did surprise me was that the fluid looked clear "brownish". Not much red in it. The vehicle only has 24,000 easy miles on the odometer. I thought the transmission fluid was good for the life of the transmission. Perhaps the life of the transmission is set as 60k miles because that's when the factory warranty ends? There is no way this fluid will last 100k.
I will try to replace the trans fluid by doing "drain and refill" several times. The amount of drained fluid will be measured and same amount of fresh fluid will be put back into transmission. Once done, I will check the level once the transmission fluid gets to proper temperature (indicated on OBDII scanner).
I will use WS Toyota fluid this time since it's still on warranty. Once the warranty is over, it will be replaced with Amsoil Signature Fuel Efficient transmission fluid. Amsoil makes great lubricants.

As far as thermostat goes... I think it can be beneficial in winter months. Toyota installs thermostats on vehicles equipped with auxiliary transmission coolers. A thermostat will help to keep transmission temperature variations to a minimum. It's only $50 extra.
 
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I don't plan on installing a thermostat. I just don't think it is necessary as the temp of the trans fluid has no bearing on performance as far I as know...Anyway....

I have a question for you. How did you determine the fluid level after the install? Did you follow the factory service manual way (which is a total pain) or use some other method?

Ok, I just did a partial replacement of transmission fluid. After doing more thinking, I went with Amsoil Fuel Saving Signature series synthetic fluid.
It was a relatively simple procedure. This vehicle has both drain fitting and a level fitting on the bottom of the oil pan, unlike some front wheel drive Toyotas with only one fitting.
Factory procedure is a bit complicated and requires a special tool that applies vacuum to the fill hole. They also use a special, variable length tube to determine proper fluid level. This tool is not absolutely required if you have time to allow your transmission to cool down. The tool can be very useful to save a lot of time so they can measure proper fluid level at any temperature. The existing factory level tube will measure correct level only within a narrow temperature range specified by the manufacturer. Any excess fluid will simply drain out.
All you need is a way to measure fluid temperature in the pan and a way to fill transmission with fresh transmission fluid. I bought a Scangauge II and a manual pump from Amsoil.com that fits Amsoil oil bottles. A similar pump can be purchased on Amazon for around $10 if you plan to use Toyota WS fluid. Scangauge can be programmed to read transmission fluid temperature.
All you need is to let the engine and transmission to cool below 90 degrees. Let it sit overnight for best results. Buy a set of new drain plug gaskets from Toyota. I reused the old ones with no issues.
Vehicle must be level. Make sure you can remove the fill plug before draining any fluid out. Loosen the level check plug (front) a bit but don't remove it yet
If you want to check the level only, start the engine and shift from park to reverse - drive and back to reverse. Leave at each position for a few seconds to allow the fluid to circulate. Keep the engine running in park. Once transmission temperature gets over 90 degrees, unscrew the level check plug and watch for any fluid to come out. Nothing or very little should come out until temperature gets to around 104 degrees. Once you see fluid start dripping at around 104 degrees, put the plug back in place, stop the engine and torque the plug to spec.
If no fluid came out at 110-115 degrees, you need to add some fluid. Reinstall the level check plug but don't make it too tight as it will be removed again. Stop the engine and let it cool to bring transmission temperature below 90 degrees. You will probably need to raise the vehicle to reach the fill plug. Open the fill plug and add about half a quart of fresh fluid. Reinstall the fill plug. Don't add more than a quart. Start the engine, run through gears and back to park, keep the engine running, remove the level check plug once the trans temperature gets above 90 degrees. Be careful not to burn your hands around the exhaust piping. Some fluid will come out. Let it drip until transmission temperature gets to 104 degrees. Once at 104 deg., reinstall the level drain plug, with a new gasket, and torque slightly. Stop the engine and tighten the plug to spec. That's it.

To drain and replace ATF fluid, you will first need to raise the vehicle so you can reach the fill plug on the transmission easier. Open the drain plug (rear) and drain the fluid. Measure the amount of fluid that came out. Reinstall the drain plug and tighten to spec. Use a new gasket if needed. Fill the transmission with the same amount of fresh fluid plus an additional 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart. Reinstall the fill plug and follow the same procedure as described above. It's very simple. The level check tube located above the level check plug will not allow you to overfill the transmission.
Some guys use an infrared thermometer to measure temperature of the transmission oil pan. Do this at very close range to get better results. Hope this helps.

Obviously, do this at your own risk. Take it to a dealer if you are not comfortable doing this yourself.
 
I purchased a 2015 Tahoe LTZ. Beautiful truck but the ride was more like being in a covered wagon. Google rough ride tahoe and you will see what I mean. GM produced a TSB which was performed on my Tahoe. That cost GM about $3700.00 and it made absouletely no difference in the ride. After a few debates GM sent me a $3500.00 voucher toward the purchase of a new Chevrolet Tahoe. I had already spent close to $4000.00 of my money without any changes. PUrchased shock simulators to confuse the computer and make it think the Mag Ride shocks were still on the vehicle. I got so frustrated over the ride that I stopped by a Toyota dealer in Richmond, KY. on my way to meet my wife and some friends in Gatlingburg, TN. The dealer is a personnel friend and he offered me a great deal on a new Four Runner. I bought it and haven't regretted it. I will say the Tahoe is the best tow vehicle I have ever had but the ride was far too harsh and after so many others were complaining about the ride I saw no way out of the thing. I've installed a cold air intake, Borla cat back, and just ordered a tune.
 
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