Transmission issues and questions
- Thread starter MityMax96
- Start date
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
Yes, Toyota WS fluid.
Look at the top of the 4th Gen forum for this thread. Or search 4th Gen ATF drain and fill. You should get plenty of write-ups.
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
You're welcome. The trickiest part is confirming the correct fluid level. Be sure to have a thorough understanding of that process.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Yes as has been confirmed by others, you definitely need to use the WS fluid.
miller507
New member
how's the mileage? The thing is if its way overdue the damage is done.
A drain and fill wont do much if the clutches are worn out, I've rebuilt 2 transmissions one on my 03 4runner (A340F) on the 2018 and my 11 Landcruiser Prado (A343F) on the 2019.
Tried everything on my 4runner before rebuilding (Drain/fills, additives and changing solenoids) to be honest I'd say the additive did give me at least a few months of use while I made my decision.
I had a shift delay and on some occasions it would take some patience to shift into reverse when the Transmission oil was cold. So I parked in reversed everywhere I went.
Good luck
A drain and fill wont do much if the clutches are worn out, I've rebuilt 2 transmissions one on my 03 4runner (A340F) on the 2018 and my 11 Landcruiser Prado (A343F) on the 2019.
Tried everything on my 4runner before rebuilding (Drain/fills, additives and changing solenoids) to be honest I'd say the additive did give me at least a few months of use while I made my decision.
I had a shift delay and on some occasions it would take some patience to shift into reverse when the Transmission oil was cold. So I parked in reversed everywhere I went.
Good luck
Yes I have been reading some instructions linked to in the threads mentioned here, as well as a YouTube vid I came across
So will read some more and make my step-by-step notes and do it
I am hoping it isn't a transmission rebuild, I just don't have the money for that.
So I am going to try my luck w/ the cheaper options first. That I can do myself.
But so far, the issue only started happening recently.....and even then it isn't as bad as the issue you had.
I had my 4Runner tuned...so that may have triggered the problem. But was probably going to happen regardless if I didn't have the tune done.
Another question, aside from transmission
At times, I am hearing a weird sound....almost like the sound you here when on rumble strips on the interstate.
Also maybe a slight grinding feeling when I hear the sound.
Any ideas what that is?
Axle seal?
Wheel bearing?
I believe it is coming from the rear, not the front
At times, I am hearing a weird sound....almost like the sound you here when on rumble strips on the interstate.
Also maybe a slight grinding feeling when I hear the sound.
Any ideas what that is?
Axle seal?
Wheel bearing?
I believe it is coming from the rear, not the front
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Bluesky 07
Senior Member
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Thank you for the thread link
A lot of reading I am doing LOL
But it looks like I will do a drain and fill a few times....
maybe add the Instant Shutter Fix stuff as well....see if that helps it.
Got another question
Happened today.
Driving down the road, I hear a noise.
Not sure how to describe it
But then I start getting a noise after that which is made on every revolution.
So I am thinking CV Axle. Passenger side.
I have a 3" lift up front.
I replaced driver side with a CVJ axle,
I look at passenger side, and both boots are torn.
So I ordered another CVJ Axle today, will replace when it comes in
I look at driver side, and where that axle goes into the housing, I see it is wet around that.
So am I leaking Differential oil there? Could that be the source of the noise?
I do have some 75w-90, so I can always add some in.
How do I know if I overfilled that, or is it possible to overfill?
Happened today.
Driving down the road, I hear a noise.
Not sure how to describe it
But then I start getting a noise after that which is made on every revolution.
So I am thinking CV Axle. Passenger side.
I have a 3" lift up front.
I replaced driver side with a CVJ axle,
I look at passenger side, and both boots are torn.
So I ordered another CVJ Axle today, will replace when it comes in
I look at driver side, and where that axle goes into the housing, I see it is wet around that.
So am I leaking Differential oil there? Could that be the source of the noise?
I do have some 75w-90, so I can always add some in.
How do I know if I overfilled that, or is it possible to overfill?
AuSeeker
Elite Member
On differentials you fill them until the oil is level with/starting to come out of the "fill" hole.
Smell the "wet" fluid that you see around where the axle goes into the diff, differential fluid/oil has a distinct smell to it so smelling it should tell you if it's gear oil.
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Damn, didn't think of smelling it.
Just did the gear oil change.
And did how you said, fill til it came out the fill hole.
Question on CV axles.
Should there be a little slop/play where the axle goes into the housing?
I am assuming there should be, as it is that way on both axles.
One other question
If I have the front jacked up, and rotate the driver side wheel, at certain points in the revolution, the drive axle will engage and rotate for a bit.
Is that normal?
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Montego Murph
Member
Before you start taking apart solenoids or otherwise panicking, try this:
Get a can of DeOxit electronics cleaner, and go under the vehicle to the transmission. Driver's side, right around under the pedals. You'll see a white connector on the side of the transmission. This connects the valve body/solenoids with the ECM.
This is in a moisture-attracting area and water likes to wick into that plug and corrode the pins, which then sends bad information between the ECM and Valve body. I had a similar issue to yours going between 1st and 2nd gear a while back. Toyota told me I needed a whole new transmission.
CAREFULLY disconnect this plug and spray both sides of the port -- pins and holes. Then let it sit for an hour to air dry. Then put some dilectric grease on the plug sides to seal moisture out, and reconnect it (again, being careful not to harm the little pins)
Take it for a ride and tell me what happened.
By the way -- not negating the need to change fluid like others have mentioned. That's still important, but try this too.
Get a can of DeOxit electronics cleaner, and go under the vehicle to the transmission. Driver's side, right around under the pedals. You'll see a white connector on the side of the transmission. This connects the valve body/solenoids with the ECM.
This is in a moisture-attracting area and water likes to wick into that plug and corrode the pins, which then sends bad information between the ECM and Valve body. I had a similar issue to yours going between 1st and 2nd gear a while back. Toyota told me I needed a whole new transmission.
CAREFULLY disconnect this plug and spray both sides of the port -- pins and holes. Then let it sit for an hour to air dry. Then put some dilectric grease on the plug sides to seal moisture out, and reconnect it (again, being careful not to harm the little pins)
Take it for a ride and tell me what happened.
By the way -- not negating the need to change fluid like others have mentioned. That's still important, but try this too.
Follow up with this
Whole issue may have been my front wheel bearings.
Initially started out with the rumble strip sound.....
Eventually I heard a noise, maybe like a pop....
And then sound just got worse
So began to thank rear axle wheel bearing.
Took it to Firestone to be sure and let them diagnose.
Glad I did....
Turned out to be driver side wheel bearing...totally bad, but no wobble with the tire when lifted.
Mechanic said the passenger side was also on the way out the door.
So bought Hub and Bearing assemblies from AutoZone, swapped out both sides.
Truck rides smooth, sounds is gone.
Waiting on my CVJ Axle to come in so I can do the passenger side....
Whole issue may have been my front wheel bearings.
Initially started out with the rumble strip sound.....
Eventually I heard a noise, maybe like a pop....
And then sound just got worse
So began to thank rear axle wheel bearing.
Took it to Firestone to be sure and let them diagnose.
Glad I did....
Turned out to be driver side wheel bearing...totally bad, but no wobble with the tire when lifted.
Mechanic said the passenger side was also on the way out the door.
So bought Hub and Bearing assemblies from AutoZone, swapped out both sides.
Truck rides smooth, sounds is gone.
Waiting on my CVJ Axle to come in so I can do the passenger side....
Thanks for this
I will give it a go....
Gotta crawl back under there when my cv axle comes in, so I will see if I can knock it out then.
earthrealm
Senior Member
so i ahve a somewhat similar problem, but in mine..usually happens btw 25 to 40mph, when i try to accelerate, i would be giving it gas...and the truck would not respond, the rev meter would also not go up either, so its a bit confusing if its a fuel delivery issue or transmission issue-- i thought if its transmission related, the rev would go up, while the car refuses to increase speed/change gears.
also that white connector you talked about is a real PITA to acccess, i have tried so many times. next option am considering is to cut up the car sheet metal from the inside and access the connector directly.
what do you think?
Montego Murph
Member
I think it's unnecessary. I'm a bigger guy with clumsy arms and I was able to access the connector to do the de-oxit treatment.
Now, don't get me wrong. It's not right out in the open like a lug nut or spark plug, but I think it would be far easier to prop up a flashlight and contort yourself a bit as opposed to removing carpet, cutting a hole, then sealing it back up.
