Transmission problem?
- Thread starter mcbean7
- Start date
MicaBlue03
Member
That repair manual is still wrong!
There are no double-cardan joints in the 4th generation 4Runners (the 4WD ones, at least), but apparently they still haven't fixed the repair manuals. I thought it was just a problem with the '03 version of the repair manual set (expensive!) that I purchased. Apparently not.
This topic has been covered in the maintenance area of this board, so more info is available there.
As for grease, I couldn't find both of the two kinds they specified (and the local dealer was even more clueless than me) so I just used Mobil 1 synthetic grease for both.
There are no double-cardan joints in the 4th generation 4Runners (the 4WD ones, at least), but apparently they still haven't fixed the repair manuals. I thought it was just a problem with the '03 version of the repair manual set (expensive!) that I purchased. Apparently not.
This topic has been covered in the maintenance area of this board, so more info is available there.
As for grease, I couldn't find both of the two kinds they specified (and the local dealer was even more clueless than me) so I just used Mobil 1 synthetic grease for both.
Iowa4Runner
New member
Re: That repair manual is still wrong!
Toyota parts departments really scare me. I had a guy insist on giving me the wrong type of transmision fluid. I made it very clear that my 4Runner was an '04 V8 that required the new WS type ATF, but he kept pushing the type IV stuff. When I pointed out the big yellow can on the shelf behind him he became confused, like he'd never heard of it before. Yikes.
Anyway, the repair manuals seem to have the u-joint / cardan joint issue corrected in the drive / propeller shaft section (chapter 30) of the repair manual. But, just like the '03 and '05 manuals, the Maintenance section (chapter 99) in the '04 manuals still has it wrong.
MicaBlue03 said:
Toyota parts departments really scare me. I had a guy insist on giving me the wrong type of transmision fluid. I made it very clear that my 4Runner was an '04 V8 that required the new WS type ATF, but he kept pushing the type IV stuff. When I pointed out the big yellow can on the shelf behind him he became confused, like he'd never heard of it before. Yikes.
Anyway, the repair manuals seem to have the u-joint / cardan joint issue corrected in the drive / propeller shaft section (chapter 30) of the repair manual. But, just like the '03 and '05 manuals, the Maintenance section (chapter 99) in the '04 manuals still has it wrong.
greasefingers
New member
Yep, I am not going to buy an additional grease gun either. Mobil 1 goes in all of my zerk fittings.
Iowa4Runner
New member
greasefingers said:
Same here. It's Valvoline Synpower for everything...
Big E
New member
Iowa4Runner said:
Thanks everyone for the info. I was a bit worried when I read that there was different grease for different zerks (I wasn't sure I'd be able to identify the right zerks). I feel better now knowing you guys just use one kind.
Cool...now I have a project for this weekend!
Boston_Runner
New member
It is not an issue with lack of grease, It is a common problem with all 4runner V8 and the GX470. Do a little looking around the clublexus site and you will see alot of thread about this problem. What the Lexus dealers have done for their customers have been replacing the drive shaft at first, which does not work. The latest fix has been to shave down the propeller gears on the drive shaft and add a teflon coating to it. That works about half of the time, it is a design issue with the Toyota / Lexus' permenent 4WD's drive train. I would try to get the Toyota dealers to do the same fix as the Lexus dealer's are doing for their customers. Although, with the Toyota dealers, you will have to do a little more kicking and screaming to get it done.
Iowa4Runner
New member
Boston_Runner said:
Huh? Shave down the propeller gears and add a teflon coating? Whoa! If that's the problem then why does greasing the slip joint eliminate the symptomatic clunk?
greasefingers
New member
A Teflon coating is silly. PTFE or Teflon is never used in heavy load applications. It will wear away within miles. Greasing that joint does not always solve the problem either. Otherwise that
Iowa4Runner
New member
greasefingers said:
Boston_Runner
New member
I don't know all the mechanical details but here is a link with the Lexus TSB:
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forum...showtopic=23561
But, in my opinion, what the Lexus dealers are willing to do for their customers goes far beyond what most Toyota dealer are willing to do.
Good Luck Guys
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forum...showtopic=23561
But, in my opinion, what the Lexus dealers are willing to do for their customers goes far beyond what most Toyota dealer are willing to do.
Good Luck Guys
Iowa4Runner
New member
I read through about 50 posts on the Lexus forum, and all of them pertained to the slip joint in the rear propeller shaft. I didn't see anything about shaving gears. Greasing seems to give mixed results, it's worked for me so far. Just don't go wild and pack the slip joint full of grease. If you do, it won't be a slip joint anymore... 
Boston_Runner
New member
They were shaving the drive shafts before the newly design driveshalf went into mass production, now they just replace the whole thing. Most of the later 05 and the 06 have this new driveshaft install already. You guys may want to be real careful about over greasing, it may do more harm than good, read the following thread please:
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=24235&highlight=New+Driveshaft
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=24235&highlight=New+Driveshaft
I'm starting to experience this same thing in my '05 with ~7000 miles. A small clunk right after I come to a stop, and a small clunk right after I let off the brake pedal. It comes and goes so no real concern yet.
Is this type of thing normal? What happens if I do nothing, will this put extra stress on the drivetrain components?
Seems like alot of trouble to take the car to the dealership just to have them pump grease into a few spots and its not even 100% sure to fix the problem.
Please advise.
Is this type of thing normal? What happens if I do nothing, will this put extra stress on the drivetrain components?
Seems like alot of trouble to take the car to the dealership just to have them pump grease into a few spots and its not even 100% sure to fix the problem.
Please advise.
4runnerman
New member
...
so the grease goes inside the zerk fittings?
can somebody elaborate more on this pumping grease topic...
Im gonna go buy a grease gun but which one I should purchase? and from where?
and how do get a hose that fits over the zerks?
so the grease goes inside the zerk fittings?
can somebody elaborate more on this pumping grease topic...
Im gonna go buy a grease gun but which one I should purchase? and from where?
and how do get a hose that fits over the zerks?
KMX3060
New member
Here is what I found out about the 'clunk'.
When you are driving at normal speed and then stop your 4r for a stop sign or light etc, the engine still is running at a higher speed than needed due to the emissions system.
Until the higher speed is not required and the engine leans out for idle the trans will remain in '2nd gear'. It will then downshift to first after the idle drops. When the idle drops and it goes into first there is a lunge due to the increased torque of first gear.
The bump we feel is from the momentary release of torque on the driveshaft between the second gear and first gear downshift and the engagement of the first gear. It is like shifting from neutral to first with your foot on the brake.
If you don't believe me then try this. Put the 4R in first gear, all the way back on the shifter, drive forward at 10-15 mph for as far as you want and then come to a stop. There will be no downshift and the torque will remain constant and there will be NO CLUNK.
(A/C on or off.)
IMHO
When you are driving at normal speed and then stop your 4r for a stop sign or light etc, the engine still is running at a higher speed than needed due to the emissions system.
Until the higher speed is not required and the engine leans out for idle the trans will remain in '2nd gear'. It will then downshift to first after the idle drops. When the idle drops and it goes into first there is a lunge due to the increased torque of first gear.
The bump we feel is from the momentary release of torque on the driveshaft between the second gear and first gear downshift and the engagement of the first gear. It is like shifting from neutral to first with your foot on the brake.
If you don't believe me then try this. Put the 4R in first gear, all the way back on the shifter, drive forward at 10-15 mph for as far as you want and then come to a stop. There will be no downshift and the torque will remain constant and there will be NO CLUNK.
(A/C on or off.)
IMHO
So are you saying that we could put it into 1st when coming to a stop, and also go, and never have the clunk?
I need a solution. I'm past 120K on mine and it happens every time, and it's getting worse in it's feeling. I've tried the grease, and it doesn't work any more. I feel that I've taken great care of this thing, and it is seriously going to piss me off if the transmission (the only thing that you can't do much for) is what goes out.
I need a solution. I'm past 120K on mine and it happens every time, and it's getting worse in it's feeling. I've tried the grease, and it doesn't work any more. I feel that I've taken great care of this thing, and it is seriously going to piss me off if the transmission (the only thing that you can't do much for) is what goes out.
dwulffusa
New member
The popular and much spoken about clunk is unacceptable, so too is the lunge which we believe is caused by the AC compressor coming on increasing rpm. I have driven much cheaper (crappy) cars before and they did not do this, so why is it acceptable on a $35k vehicle, toyota's quality is becoming a perception not a reality.
I have a new noticable problem with mine. When breaking moderately to a stop it shakes/jerks mildly. First thought obviously is that the brake pads are worn or the discs are slightly warped. However if I shift to neutral coming to a stop it is smooth to a standstill, so can it be the brakes. This leaves me thinking that the electronic downshifting on decelaration is getting confused. It is more noticable during more aggressive driving.
And I will post once more on the 5th overdrive issue that has plagued my vehicle since new. When coasting at 45mph as soon as it shifts in O/D in 5th the transmission shakes, sometimes very noticably. Accelerating (out of O/D), decelarating or shifting into 4th eliminates the shaking immediately. I have given up with the dealer as the claim it is the same as any other and no errors are logged on the system. The only option the service manager has left me with now is to give him the vehicle for a few days and let him use it to let it surface and log the problem, which still doesnt mean they will replace the tranny. I have complained about this since the first week I bought it.
Am I the only person with this problem??
What would you do?
I am now on 32k miles.
I have a new noticable problem with mine. When breaking moderately to a stop it shakes/jerks mildly. First thought obviously is that the brake pads are worn or the discs are slightly warped. However if I shift to neutral coming to a stop it is smooth to a standstill, so can it be the brakes. This leaves me thinking that the electronic downshifting on decelaration is getting confused. It is more noticable during more aggressive driving.
And I will post once more on the 5th overdrive issue that has plagued my vehicle since new. When coasting at 45mph as soon as it shifts in O/D in 5th the transmission shakes, sometimes very noticably. Accelerating (out of O/D), decelarating or shifting into 4th eliminates the shaking immediately. I have given up with the dealer as the claim it is the same as any other and no errors are logged on the system. The only option the service manager has left me with now is to give him the vehicle for a few days and let him use it to let it surface and log the problem, which still doesnt mean they will replace the tranny. I have complained about this since the first week I bought it.
Am I the only person with this problem??
What would you do?
I am now on 32k miles.