Transmission Service: Drain & Fill or Machine Flush?
- Thread starter budda919
- Start date
AMSOILDealer
New member
Regarding the transmission flush, AMSOIL offers an engine and transmission flush fluid, but is only recommended for manual transmissions.
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2763.pdf
https://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2763.pdf
williamZ
New member
Which doesn't pertain to any of us...
ClockWork
Banned
You really need to cool it with your Amsoil fetish.
fluid flush
For those who are interested in some more info on the flush vs. drain and fill here goes. Also I'll explain how to do a flush at home for only the cost of the fluid (and a piece of hose).
A flush is done with a machine, they hook-up inline between cooler line returning to the tranny and the cooler (Rad) and pump new fluid into the tranny whilst collecting the old. There is a sight that let's the tech see the 'old fluid' coming out and check the color. When the fluid coming out matches the new going in your done. That's why some get 10qts and some get 13qts. the advantage is there is way less risk of the fluid level running low during the procedure and of course you get 100% new fluid, well almost anyways.
In a drain and fill, there two general ways of doing it. On a tranny with a pan, or a drain plug, you drain what comes out and refill this will usually net about 25% total fluid exchange. if you were to do this several times in a row you'll do more but all that new fluid is going into the pan, so your losing some new with the old. if you don't have a plug or a pan there is another way.
Here is a technique that is commonly used when you don't have a pan or plug, and can't afford the 6000$ for the machine this is what we do:
1.Disconnect the cooler line coming from the transmission, aim it in a catch basin. this is where you may need a rubber hose to slip over the line, so as to not get fluid everywhere.
2.Get all you new fluid lined up and ready. remove the caps and set nearby.
3.Remove the transmission dipstick and put in a long funnel that fits tight in the dipstick tube. fill the funnel with fluid, and then start the truck. Here's the tricky part. the fluid will now be pumping out the cooler line into the basin. Your job is to keep filling the funnel as quickly as it comes out the bottom. if you do it right when your out qts. your level should good or slightly above the high mark. You have to try and not let the level get too low it's not good for your transmission. best thing is to stop the truck a couple times and check you level. make sure and wait a few minutes for the tube to drain into the tranny. If done correctly you'll get the exact same results as the costly flush from the dealer.
Jesse
For those who are interested in some more info on the flush vs. drain and fill here goes. Also I'll explain how to do a flush at home for only the cost of the fluid (and a piece of hose).
A flush is done with a machine, they hook-up inline between cooler line returning to the tranny and the cooler (Rad) and pump new fluid into the tranny whilst collecting the old. There is a sight that let's the tech see the 'old fluid' coming out and check the color. When the fluid coming out matches the new going in your done. That's why some get 10qts and some get 13qts. the advantage is there is way less risk of the fluid level running low during the procedure and of course you get 100% new fluid, well almost anyways.
In a drain and fill, there two general ways of doing it. On a tranny with a pan, or a drain plug, you drain what comes out and refill this will usually net about 25% total fluid exchange. if you were to do this several times in a row you'll do more but all that new fluid is going into the pan, so your losing some new with the old. if you don't have a plug or a pan there is another way.
Here is a technique that is commonly used when you don't have a pan or plug, and can't afford the 6000$ for the machine this is what we do:
1.Disconnect the cooler line coming from the transmission, aim it in a catch basin. this is where you may need a rubber hose to slip over the line, so as to not get fluid everywhere.
2.Get all you new fluid lined up and ready. remove the caps and set nearby.
3.Remove the transmission dipstick and put in a long funnel that fits tight in the dipstick tube. fill the funnel with fluid, and then start the truck. Here's the tricky part. the fluid will now be pumping out the cooler line into the basin. Your job is to keep filling the funnel as quickly as it comes out the bottom. if you do it right when your out qts. your level should good or slightly above the high mark. You have to try and not let the level get too low it's not good for your transmission. best thing is to stop the truck a couple times and check you level. make sure and wait a few minutes for the tube to drain into the tranny. If done correctly you'll get the exact same results as the costly flush from the dealer.
Jesse
Well as a certified auto tech for 15 years (first 7 in a chevy dealership) I'd hardly say I'm nuts. The technique I described works like a charm And was used all the time at the dealership where I worked. We did it this way for years before we got the flush machine. Only we had a graduated white basin so we could easily monitor the fluid as it came out to maintain the in out ratio. it is no less safe than the fancy machine, except the machine fills and catches automatically. you still need to adjust the fill rate manually and could still run the tranny dry if not careful.
Jesse
JohnnyT
New member
I hear you but I think only a certified auto tech should try that. If you are one and comfortable doing it, then thats fine but its not for the large majority that post here.
Bftfan
New member
Good point Jesse and not sure why all the negivity towards this procedure. This is basically how I've done my Jeeps, my kids cars and the wife's ride too. Been doing this 25+ yrs w/o a problem ever. We just disabled the ignition and turned it over a few times always monitoring the fluid coming out. Repeat as necessary. Fluid out + fluid in and eventually = clean fluid in tranny. Check the Jeep boards like Pirate and you'll see people do this all the time.
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Exactly, As long as you monitor the in-out ratio, it's all good. Look there is usually between 12-18 qts of fluid in an automatic transmission. you could be down 4 qts without breaking a sweat under normal driving conditions. My brother had a Cherokee that cracked a cooler line, while I was away on vacation years ago. He would drive it until it didn't move forward any more, add a gallon and keep on going. did that for a week. After I fixed it he drove it like that for two more years before wrecking it. Was that good for it? Of course not, but it proves a point...
Jesse
Snesley Wipes
New member
I thought I saw my tranny flush done on my last car with the car in gear? I remember it was on a lift but I thought they had it in drive while they were doing it, not just on. Does this sound right?
Snes
It's possible and theoretically, would actually change more fluid by sending it into the circuits that control the gears. How much better is that versus just running the pump? Maybe 10-15% would be my guess.
Jesse
I've used the method mentioned above before. Drain the pan, add new fluid. Then had a buddy up top start the truck while I let it drain into an empty fluid bottle. When that was full, I'd turn it off and add a new qt of fluid. Seems like a lot of on/off cycles but it pumps quick..plan to use this method myself on the 4runner and use the scangauge to make sure the fluid is the right temp for checking the level. Much cheaper than $300 at the dealer..the fluid can be found for less than $100 for a case of 12..
TX4Running
Member
ATF Drained and Refilled
I did a drain and refill over the weekend. Prior to starting, I added 1 quart of water to the catch-pan at a time and marked on the side of the plastic with a knife. The pan had pre-etched marks but I wanted to make sure they were correct. Of course they were not. It was correct at 1 quart but consistently 1/2 quart off for the rest (i.e. the original markings for 2, 3, 4 quarts were actually ~ 2.5, 3.5, and 4.5 quarts). So when I actually pulled the plug on the pan, I expected ~4 qts based on previous threads. The actual level in the catch-pan ended up at ~4.5 on the original markings which meant I had drained ~ 5 qts. So I added 5 qts of ATF. Now every time I have checked the level, it has been high (about 1" above the Hot mark this evening). Tonight I made sure to run the engine until temp. reached normal operating temp. I shifted through all gears. Then I checked the dipstick multiple times. Always came up high. Overnight I am leaving the dipstick out just in case I was getting residue from the dipstick tube. Anyone heard of something similar to draining X amount and then refilling X amount but ending up with too much? Thanks for any help.
I did a drain and refill over the weekend. Prior to starting, I added 1 quart of water to the catch-pan at a time and marked on the side of the plastic with a knife. The pan had pre-etched marks but I wanted to make sure they were correct. Of course they were not. It was correct at 1 quart but consistently 1/2 quart off for the rest (i.e. the original markings for 2, 3, 4 quarts were actually ~ 2.5, 3.5, and 4.5 quarts). So when I actually pulled the plug on the pan, I expected ~4 qts based on previous threads. The actual level in the catch-pan ended up at ~4.5 on the original markings which meant I had drained ~ 5 qts. So I added 5 qts of ATF. Now every time I have checked the level, it has been high (about 1" above the Hot mark this evening). Tonight I made sure to run the engine until temp. reached normal operating temp. I shifted through all gears. Then I checked the dipstick multiple times. Always came up high. Overnight I am leaving the dipstick out just in case I was getting residue from the dipstick tube. Anyone heard of something similar to draining X amount and then refilling X amount but ending up with too much? Thanks for any help.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Bringing back another old thread. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I recently helped member [MENTION=110858]JoeBand[/MENTION] with a complete Transmission Fluid Flush. I used an old write-up on the subject but I can't find it now to give you a link to it. But, the video we made covers everything you need. This is just a video of renewing the fluid. We don't drop the pan.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RumPXivBlk8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/RumPXivBlk8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
buckeye4runner08
New member
Just a word of warning to those looking to have the flush done. I called my local dealership asking about this service, told them the year make and model, and was quoted a price (179 I believe). I made sure to confirm multiple times that it was in fact a machine flush and not just a transmission service or a drain and fill.
I make the appointment and take my runner in. When they were checking me in, I said multiple times that I was here for the machine flush. I got them to confirm the fluid being used, and made triple sure that I was getting a machine flush (notice the redundancy here? lol).
When they were going to check me out, before I signed or paid the invoice, I noticed that the invoice said "transmission service" and that the detail only showed 4 quarts of fluid being used.
I brought this up to the service manager's attention and they tried to give me the run around as to why they didn't do a flush, which made absolutely no sense. I clearly knew more about the procedure and the limitations than he did. I told them that I was very disturbed that even after stating multiple times that I was paying for a machine flush, what I actually received was a drain and fill, and why would I pay 179 dollars for something that I could do in my driveway for $40.
I wanted them to discount the procedure as they did not provide what I requested, and they eventually just gave me the whole thing for free.
Moral of the story: make sure you are VERY specific with your requests, and CHECK THE INVOICE before you sign/pay.
I make the appointment and take my runner in. When they were checking me in, I said multiple times that I was here for the machine flush. I got them to confirm the fluid being used, and made triple sure that I was getting a machine flush (notice the redundancy here? lol).
When they were going to check me out, before I signed or paid the invoice, I noticed that the invoice said "transmission service" and that the detail only showed 4 quarts of fluid being used.
I brought this up to the service manager's attention and they tried to give me the run around as to why they didn't do a flush, which made absolutely no sense. I clearly knew more about the procedure and the limitations than he did. I told them that I was very disturbed that even after stating multiple times that I was paying for a machine flush, what I actually received was a drain and fill, and why would I pay 179 dollars for something that I could do in my driveway for $40.
I wanted them to discount the procedure as they did not provide what I requested, and they eventually just gave me the whole thing for free.
Moral of the story: make sure you are VERY specific with your requests, and CHECK THE INVOICE before you sign/pay.
