Trd pro lift question

My lift was delivered this week. Now to find a place to get it installed. Anyone have any recommendations for a place in the South SF Bay area? I was thinking about Swat Customs in Fremont. Has anyone dealt with them?

[MENTION=121532]kuato[/MENTION] let me know what you find out. Going to order my kit soon and will be looking for an area in the Southbay also!
 
In regards to the Totec TRD Pro 2" lift kit for $399. Does this by any chance eliminate the TRD Pro "clunk" in colder temperatures? Sorry if this has already been covered.
 
In regards to the Totec TRD Pro 2" lift kit for $399. Does this by any chance eliminate the TRD Pro "clunk" in colder temperatures? Sorry if this has already been covered.
Unfortunately not for me. I live in Utah and have had a few cold days since the install and it's pretty much the same. Rides the same and sounds the same.
 
Installed today.

Installed today. Alignment and install $330 at a local truck shop. Only drove about 10 miles but the ride is great, definitely tell it is a little stiffer all the way around, especially in nose dive. Grocery store pics and other specs. I will get some better photos later. I am using the 1.5'' SAWs in the rear also have 1.25 Spidertrax Spacers. Looks awesome though I can't stop going out in the garage and staring!







 
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I have the toytec lift installed with camburg uac's. Today temps dropped to 25F, was on the highway and noticed a wobble on the driver side like i had a flat, i kept driving and it seemed to go away. Anyone ever feel this?
 
Installed today. Alignment and install $330 at a local truck shop. Only drove about 10 miles but the ride is great, definitely tell it is a little stiffer all the way around, especially in nose dive. Grocery store pics and other specs. I will get some better photos later. I am using the 1.5'' SAWs in the rear also have 1.25 Spidertrax Spacers. Looks awesome though I can't stop going out in the garage and staring!

Nice job! I'm with you about looking at it in the garage. I feel embarrassingly vain about it so I do it when no one is at home, lol.

I think you will have the same problem I am having and that is that from a distance the truck looks lifted and tough and then has these tiny little 265/70/17 Nitto's on it! Definitely looking at 285/70/17. My Nitto's are too worn to re-sell to anyone for any money so I will just have to wait until they just go.

Enjoy the lift!

Nice to see pictures of the underneath of a 4Runner that is not clean and pristine like it never left the garage!
 
I have the toytec lift installed with camburg uac's. Today temps dropped to 25F, was on the highway and noticed a wobble on the driver side like i had a flat, i kept driving and it seemed to go away. Anyone ever feel this?
No. Might want to check and tighten everything.
 
I have the toytec lift installed with camburg uac's. Today temps dropped to 25F, was on the highway and noticed a wobble on the driver side like i had a flat, i kept driving and it seemed to go away. Anyone ever feel this?

I would check things out, that should not be normal.

Check Ball Joints and have a good look at the UCA's. Maybe the new bushings on the UCA were cold (shrink) and after they warmed up filled the space appropriately but that's too much play if you are getting a wobble in my opinion.
 
I drove home from work, temps were above 45F, no wobble, everything was fine. Guess i have to bring it in to get it checked out.
 
I drove home from work, temps were above 45F, no wobble, everything was fine. Guess i have to bring it in to get it checked out.

That wobble would stop me in my tracks.

This could be an indication of ball joint/CV joint being not properly installed. A way you can check is to jack up that side of the truck, and place two hands on the wheel and try to shake is left and right or up and down. You should have NO movement whatsoever. If you do, that will tell you what joint is bad.

Good luck.
 
Thanks guys.

Brought the truck back to the 4wheeldrive shop, they threw it on the lift and diagnosed it as: Front Left/Driver side CV Axel Shaft loose, needs to be replaced. He took me under the truck and showed me the passenger side was nice and tight, and the driver side was loose. He said the grease inside of it must of froze and messed things up as i drove it. I dunno if i can believe that. I have worked with grease on snow plows, i dont recall grease ever freezing in 20F weather, or even if its possible.

This 2016 4runner trd only has 1100 miles. I hope the Toyota dealer will fix it under warranty.

What would make the CV Shaft loose? I havent even taken it off-road yet.

Will i run into problems with Toyota now that I have the toytec front spacers installed and new UCA's?

Also found a crack in my front windshield. Bah....no luck.
 
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Thanks guys.

Brought the truck back to the 4wheeldrive shop, they threw it on the lift and diagnosed it as: Front Left/Driver side CV Axel Shaft loose, needs to be replaced. He took me under the truck and showed me the passenger side was nice and tight, and the driver side was loose. He said the grease inside of it must of froze and messed things up as i drove it. I dunno if i can believe that. I have worked with grease on snow plows, i dont recall grease ever freezing in 20F weather, or even if its possible.

Oh I feel that is going to get ugly, really really sorry about that!

"What would cause the CV shaft to come loose?" installers that did the work on the UCA probably didn't support the disconnected spindle and let the thing just hang from the CV shaft and steering link that's what. "frozen grease"? I call BS on the shop representatives part! I have had my truck out here in tons of days below freezing as well as 20F. If CV Joint grease froze at those temperatures there would be no front-wheel drive cars on the road in the Mid-Atlantic North-East.

I'm afraid you may have a big battle with the dealership to fix it under warranty and sounds like the installers are trying to blame someone else for their shoddy workmanship.

But it may work out, i tend to be the pessimist in these situations. Be honest with the dealer, they still get paid by Toyota Motor Company for the warranty work. I would stay away from that 4wheeldrive shop too for any future work.

Good luck and keep us posted!
 
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I think the shop is responsible as well. If I have to pay for Toyota to replace the CV Shaft, how much in parts and labor do you think im looking at? Should I swap out the Camburg UCA's and have Toyota put the stock UCA's back in? I will never go back to this 4x4 shop. I cant believe this :doh: For him to even mention the words frozen and grease in the same sentence..... :censored: I dont even want them touching my truck again.

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I don't think the UCA is the cause of the damage or defective so I would not think you need to set it back to factory.

From the information provided I can only surmise that the installers botched the CV. Sounds like the 4wheeldrive shop rep knows what happened and is trying to pass it off as "you have a warranty claim with Toyota" instead of footing the bill themselves.

Maybe have a civilized talk with the 4wheelshop manager. After all the CV joint was not loose before you turned it in and they were the last ones in that exact area before the looseness happened.

I hate conflict (and am not a good negotiator under these circumstances) and this turns into their word against yours. I also feel that if a big argument comes out and they are forced to do the repair to your CV then who knows what else they will screw up to get "even" or more incompetence. The independent shop is not as beholden to anyone other than a bad Yelp review which they probably don't care about anyway.

Plead your honest case with the dealer leaving the new UCA on. If they are interested in keeping you on as a repeat Toyota Service customer they may be more amenable to try and work with you.

Maybe the dealer could just charge you for the labor to put the factory UCA back on and then they can more easily claim a warranty repair for the CV replacement.

My thought here being that as long as you still have your original UCA's it would be less expensive for the labor to replace the UCA than buying a new CV joint and/or axle half-shaft and labor for install of that.

In any case I believe that the spindle needs to come off for the replacement of the CV which means disconnecting from Upper and Lower Control arms. Although others on here that may have done their own CV joint replacement would know more about that than my speculation.

I don't know what the costs are for the CV joint and or axle half-shaft though, sorry.
 
Thanks for the offer and thanks again for the help guys.

Just got back from the Toyota dealer. They drove the truck, put it on the lift, checked it out, took it off the lift, and said the Driver side CV Shaft was tight. So i said please put the truck back on the lift again cause i'd like to shake it for myself, so they put it back on the lift and i shook it and it was super tight wouldnt move. When i was at the 4x4 shop a few days ago, it was loose, how could it tighten itself back up?

:noidea:

So weird. No charge for the diagnostics. Thanks again!

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