TRD Skid Plate Mounted w/ Studs 2010-2024
- Thread starter Saker
- Start date
CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
Write up only speaks to front bolts. What length for the rear bolts?
Saker
Senior Member
[MENTION=177976]CutthroatSlam[/MENTION]
Hmmm, on my response I was addressing your retainer question.
If you are referring to the mod, first paragraph under
EDITED VERSION Rev 1.1 is for the rear bolts as only those can come in from the top.
Shout out if you request more info!
CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
On the fronts, use the same M10 x1.25 hex bolts in 70MM length. Cut the head off with dremel and run into proper depth? Using blue loctite to hold them in?
Last edited:
Saker
Senior Member
You got it!
I cut mine to total length of 2 5/8” to bottom out in the forward radiator location.
Depending on what nut and washer hardware you use, the total length may be different.
If you use what I used, 2 5/8” is correct, blue loctite screw them in till they bottom out. If you put 2 nuts on each stud, lock them together and tighten the studs up tight, release the nuts, unscrew the nuts. Put your skid on & .... done!
Shout back if you need anything!
Charlievee
Senior Member
Pulled the skid plates yesterday, amazing how this mod simplifies the project. The neurotic part of me was thinking of doing this mod for the rest of the plates... maybe one stud in each for indexing. Probably not. Lol.
rageandlove
Member
Someone should buy 100 of each and make and sell kits for cost +$20 to the 500 of us that are too disorganized to ever get to this.
Saker
Senior Member
I would love to do that, but it is so easy to order these and DIY.
I’ve listed parts and instructions for everyone!
I will take donations for the guidelines if you want to drop some coin in my PayPal acct!!!!!!
:becky:
:behindsofa:
CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
Did this mod today and it was not hard at all. I did have to chase the threads on the rear holes, but otherwise, pretty straightforward. So much easier putting the skid plate back on. No longer hunting for threads with the bolts while also holding up the skid plate.
Saker
Senior Member
[MENTION=177976]CutthroatSlam[/MENTION]
Took mine into the dealership several days ago and the sr tech that works on my truck was blown away at this mod.
He told me it made his job really easy removing and replacing the skid plate.
Last edited:
57HotrodVW
New member
Hand tools can be easily used to remove fasteners secured with red Loctite. I've done it many times over the years.
Saker
Senior Member
FEATURES AND BENEFITS
Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners.
The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).
Loctite(R) Threadlocker Red 271™
YMMV
57HotrodVW
New member
At most, you'll only need to use a longer ratchet/breaker bar/cheater pipe to remove fasteners secured with Loctite 271 (aka "red"). It holds better than blue, but can be easily removed with hand tools. Trust me, or try it yourself...
Grug556
New member
you can try 272 or other types. Most of the reds have lower melt points of just under 300F. Theres only a couple Red types that go much past that. Loctite has a chart listing all their min max temps and operating ranges. Ideally get one that has anti corrosive properties, can be used on bolts that are dirty and oily and resist vibration.
My dealer didn't strip one of my bolts, but the genius who used an impact driver to remove the skid broke off the welded nut in the support frame that the front bolt goes screws into. So now I only have one bolt in the front holding the plate and the two in the rear. It's extremely annoying. Anyone have a solution for that because I don't think this great solution Sake provided will work?
CutthroatSlam
Senior Member
Have a new nut welded in place.
That was my first thought as well, but after taking a look at where the nut is, it's inside the support frame and there's no way of getting in there. The original welded nut is just dancing around in there. You would have to drill a large enough hole in the frame to get a welder in there to weld a new one. That was my only thought.
NB17Limited
New member
Pretty simple for a competent welder.
With a new nut, chamfer the outer edge a bit.
Drill a hole so the nut will pass thru.
Countersink the hole slightly.
Hold new nut in hole using a minimum 2"+ bolt threaded into nut.
With the new nut flush with the frame member, using a TIG welder, tack the nut to the frame member on the outside.
Remove bolt carefully, continue to tack in more spots and/or finish weld
When cooled off, chase thread with a tap if needed.
With a good weld, there should be no grinding flush needed.
20 minute task, max.
Similar threads
