TRD Spring with Tundra 5100 Install

[GrassFed]

Howdy Guys,

I am having a hell of a time figuring out where I have gone wrong.

I've been following Tim's and Speedy's install guide videos to a T and am having absolutely no luck.

The top of the steering knuckle makes contact with the coil at full droop. I have the perch and the bottom of the coil facing parallel with the tire. I saw that Speedy ran into this problem at first, because he didn't have the perch facing the correct way. Once he corrected it, everything fit just fine.

On Tim's video he doesn't mention this problem whatsoever. What the heck am I doing wrong?

If it matters, I bought this setup second hand.

For all that have installed this front setup yourself, any input is greatly appreciated. I'd hate to have to reuse my OEM springs just to get it to fit.

Matt

 

[nc-grayson]

is the bottom of the coil lined up parallel to the tire on the inboard or outboard side of the perch?

 

[GrassFed]

It is located on the outboard side of the shock

 

[hounddogman]

The direction Speedy placed them is just a good starting point . Don't be surprised when you have to rotate the springs from there . There is no one direction that works with every spring , every 4runner . Good luck .

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Make it contact, figure out how many degrees you need to rotate spring to work, rotate spring, drink beer to your success.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

The perch spring stop is perpendicular to the wheel. That's how mine are.

 

[GrassFed]

Thank you for the replies guys. I feel pretty stupid now reading your responses. For some reason I thought there was a significance to it being parallel with the wheel per the FSM, although these aren't the OEM application so it won't be the same thing.

Thanks again for the help

Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[reelamin]

Thank you for the replies guys. I feel pretty stupid now reading your responses. For some reason I thought there was a significance to it being parallel with the wheel per the FSM, although these aren't the OEM application so it won't be the same thing.

Thanks again for the help

Matt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And the end result in what you did.....IS???

 

[GrassFed]

I'll update this thread when I finish. Haven't been able to get back at it yet. I won't leave you hanging. Definitely feel real stupid now that most of the responses are what your gut tells you. The ol' guess and check.

Thank you all again. Will update

Matt

 

[Yoter]

Are the springs used?
What perch are you installing them on?
This makes significant difference, installing on a higher perch can cause contact no matter what direction you point it.

 

[GrassFed]

Yoter, the springs are used with roughly 70K on them. I have them on the lowest perch setting as I am looking for the least amount of lift possible. Maybe if I was to lift it up one perch I would be in good shape.

Or maybe I should just use the factory springs and be done with the whole headache. Admittedly I like the idea of the heavier duty spring, but in all practicality I do not have a specific need for the heavier duty spring

Are the springs used?
What perch are you installing them on?
This makes significant difference, installing on a higher perch can cause contact no matter what direction you point it.

 

[Yoter]

On the first perch you should be fine, you will probably get slightly less lift than with new springs as these do sag over time especially when under the weight of a Tundra but 70K miles is nothing, yeah play around with them and you will probably find a sweet spot.
FYI, The rotation can be adjusted buy putting a thick screw driver through the bottom shock mount and turning, no need to disassemble

 

[GrassFed]

On the first perch you should be fine, you will probably get slightly less lift than with new springs as these do sag over time especially when under the weight of a Tundra but 70K miles is nothing, yeah play around with them and you will probably find a sweet spot.
FYI, The rotation can be adjusted buy putting a thick screw driver through the bottom shock mount and turning, no need to disassemble

Thanks Yoter, they were originally installed on a 3rd Gen with a front bumper so who knows they might even be in better shape than if they were in a Tundra.

Does the top hat position matter if I can going to be turning the shock with the screwdriver from the bottom? Am I crazy in thinking that I can keep the top hat in the same position and just manipulate the shock tube via the bushing until I get it right?

If these are stupid questions I apologize and hope that at the very least y'all can find some humor in my ignorance toward the subject. Very new to working on suspension and still have so much to learn.

Matt

 

[LV_T4R]

nice. i just installed the same setup but want to lift it to the second perch. not high enough on my '99 going from tall springs

 

[Yoter]

Thanks Yoter, they were originally installed on a 3rd Gen with a front bumper so who knows they might even be in better shape than if they were in a Tundra.

Does the top hat position matter if I can going to be turning the shock with the screwdriver from the bottom? Am I crazy in thinking that I can keep the top hat in the same position and just manipulate the shock tube via the bushing until I get it right?

If these are stupid questions I apologize and hope that at the very least y'all can find some humor in my ignorance toward the subject. Very new to working on suspension and still have so much to learn.

Matt

Chances are the top hat will have to rotate relative to the spring, one way of achieving this is by placing pressure on the top hats studs by bracing them with a bar/screw driver/wrench, anything big enough to allow you to push against two of the three top hat studs.
If you have the strut laying on the garage floor:
-place a large screw driver through the bottom mount (this allows you to turn the shock body)
-simultaneously use another screw driver or wrench to wedge between two of the three top hat studs and use this to pry and turn the top hat.
I think it sounds way more complicated than it actually once you have the strut in you hands its pretty straight forward and easier than compressing the spring and readjusting the top hat.

 

[GrassFed]

Thanks guys. To add a little more to the story and o update on where I am- got the rear and one of the fronts in today with the window I had to work on it.

I'm thinking part of my problem has come from the fact that my setup is second hand. I think I'll sand down the tab on the knuckle in order to be in the clear. When dealing with millimeters of clearance at full droop every little bit counts.

Yoter your advice saved me today. I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I was able to get he spring situated to an acceptable place, then turned the shock mount with a tent stake.

I however didn't have any luck turning the top hat. When securing the shock, the shock mount will turn before the top hat. ** EDIT : I am an idiot. I put the assembly in a vice and proceeded with Yoter's instructions. Works like a charm to adjust the top hat. **

The only way that made sense to me would be to compress the spring and adjust the top hat ever so slightly to fine tune your clearance.

I don't care for removing material on the knuckle, but between that and aftermarket UCAs I figure it makes enough sense and in not risking too much. Especially because it only gets close is at full droop, and I don't wheel enough to warrant that type of worry.

Thank you again to all that helped