i would appreciate it as well. Looking at trying to pick up a 1st gen charger on CL.
TRD Supercharger 1st Gen (Gray Top)/Eaton M62 Complete Rebuild- Write Up
- Thread starter chris360hawks
- Start date
i would appreciate it as well. Looking at trying to pick up a 1st gen charger on CL.
Mr. Focker
New member
Do you know if there is a coating for the rotors that will hold up to the meth injection?
I'm wondering the same thing. Anyone find any other writeups on this? Even on a generic m62 charger, this process should be the same for all.
chris360hawks
New member
Updated with pics. Couldn't find all of the original ones I had, but this should be most of them. Sorry it took so long!
Here is a link to the photo bucket album as well:
http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/southtexastoy/slideshow/Supercharger Rebuild
Here is a link to the photo bucket album as well:
http://s1345.photobucket.com/user/southtexastoy/slideshow/Supercharger Rebuild
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chris360hawks
New member
Lay the rotor backing plate on the press dies with the rotors sticking down, towards the ground. Use a socket to press the rotor nipples that go through the rotor gears down, out of the rotor backing plate.
How much do you really think it hurts to strip the coating? I'm not going for crazy power, just a little more umph to get over the rockies or up to casper from denver. I have a little flaking on one rotor, I thought I would just strip it, rather than have flakes for the coating go into the engine. I plan on running a 2.2 pulley anyways. Thoughts?
chris360hawks
New member
That is true that it takes efficiency away a little bit, but in my experience it doesn't make much of a difference. On my 4Runner with a 2.1" pulley I pull 9-10 lbs of boost and on the Tacoma where we stripped the rotors he pulls 8-9 lbs of boost on the same pulley. Plus he has headers. His truck is still faster than mine. I think it's fine to strip them if they are peeling.
You guys can do what you want with your Superchargers. I'm just letting you know that Eaton didn't arbitrarily coat the Rotors for no reason.
The Teflon-ceramic-carbide coating is abradeable, and is there to help manage heat, and improve adiabatic efficiency.
If I were running a Supercharger on my 4Runner, the last thing I would want to do is lessen it's performance or durability.
The Teflon-ceramic-carbide coating is abradeable, and is there to help manage heat, and improve adiabatic efficiency.
If I were running a Supercharger on my 4Runner, the last thing I would want to do is lessen it's performance or durability.
02SE here is a pic of my rotor. What would you suggest I do? Strip the coating or run as is? If I run as is, I'm worried if getting flakes in the engine and causing problens. I'm not trying to squeeze every ounce of HP from the engine, just be able to go over the rockies without shifting into 3rd gear!!
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chris360hawks
New member
It's up to you. If you run meth the coating is going to come off. Yours will continue to flake off as it has already started. The earlier M62 chargers didn't have the coatings. You can get them recoated if you want, but it isn't cheap. In the whole scheme of rebuilding superchargers, it is a relatively minor concern IMO. Getting the tolerances and everything to fit together correctly is much more important.
Personally? I would get it re-coated. But I'm very picky that things be done correctly.
I agree that the tolerances being correct is important for the best performance. However, the tolerances won't be what they should be, with the coating removed.
I've rebuilt Superchargers hundreds of times. In our application, cutting corners, or just average performance, is not acceptable.
In our case, as soon as the data-logged pressure starts to drop, the Supercharger gets rebuilt. Or if too far out of spec even after being rebuilt, it gets replaced.
So with all that being said, If less-than-optimal performance is acceptable, then be assured you won't hurt anything with a less efficient Supercharger that's not producing pressure to it's full potential.
I agree that the tolerances being correct is important for the best performance. However, the tolerances won't be what they should be, with the coating removed.
I've rebuilt Superchargers hundreds of times. In our application, cutting corners, or just average performance, is not acceptable.
In our case, as soon as the data-logged pressure starts to drop, the Supercharger gets rebuilt. Or if too far out of spec even after being rebuilt, it gets replaced.
So with all that being said, If less-than-optimal performance is acceptable, then be assured you won't hurt anything with a less efficient Supercharger that's not producing pressure to it's full potential.
since you have rebuilt plenty and seem to have a handle on this, where is the most economical place to get these recoated. and what will the damage be?
keep in mind, this is a budget build to get myself a little more power, but then again this is going on an engine w/ 218000 miles on it that will not be rebuilt. I am obviously not going to be checking pre and post pressure output to determine a rebuild schedule!
One more for you. What are you thoughts on my idea of just running a 2.1 pulley w/ stripped rotors versus running a 2.2 pulley w/ coated rotors? Again, seems like an economical solution to go w/ the stripped/2.1 combo.
Thanks for your help guys!
I don't deal with the street oriented Eaton superchargers much. But I have heard good things about this place from those that do:Supercharger Rebuild Services from Embree Machine at the The High Speed Lab, Eaton, MINI Cooper S R53, Powerdyne, Kenne Bell & Whipple Supercharger Rebuild Services & Supercharger Kits
Yeah, short of our pro drag racing application, where every little bit of performance matters, that would be overkill.
Well, without the coating on the rotors acting as a thermal barrier, the rotors will get hotter, thus the air will be hotter too. Then you're also spinning the supercharger faster, increasing the air temp even further.
Hotter intake air temps are never what you want for performance. How will it perform?, I can't answer that without testing the set-up.
I can only say for sure that a Supercharger built properly and running the correct tolerances, will perform better than one that isn't, all else being equal.
Dous
New member
Question for the supercharger gurus:
So took my S/C off to rebuild today, which I thought would be a premature action, as the S/C sounded fine, spun easy by hand.
Once I took it off I noticed that infact it needed rebuilt thousands of miles ago. All the bearings including the rear needles had a good bit of play.
As a result the case the rotors spin in has a pretty good sized gouge in it, plus the rotors have some small scratches and nicks.
Will it be OK with the gouges, and rotor damage? I never noticed a decrease in boost, but I worry something could go south.
I failed to take any pictures as I was covered in grease, but hopefully you guys get the idea.
So took my S/C off to rebuild today, which I thought would be a premature action, as the S/C sounded fine, spun easy by hand.
Once I took it off I noticed that infact it needed rebuilt thousands of miles ago. All the bearings including the rear needles had a good bit of play.
As a result the case the rotors spin in has a pretty good sized gouge in it, plus the rotors have some small scratches and nicks.
Will it be OK with the gouges, and rotor damage? I never noticed a decrease in boost, but I worry something could go south.
I failed to take any pictures as I was covered in grease, but hopefully you guys get the idea.
1998runnerlimited
New member
how to change the supercharger oil??
I have a limited 98 Toyota 4 runner that I bought 5 years ago and it already came with the supercharger and just recently started making noise.fixed the noise problem but just can't seem to figure out how to put in New oil can you help? I don't know how much it what kind.
I have a limited 98 Toyota 4 runner that I bought 5 years ago and it already came with the supercharger and just recently started making noise.fixed the noise problem but just can't seem to figure out how to put in New oil can you help? I don't know how much it what kind.
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SCRunner12
New member
Due to the location of the oil drain plug on the 1st gen superchargers you will have to remove the supercharger from the vehicle to change the oil. It's kind of a pain, but not a hard job to do. Once it's off there is a small port under the nose cone that you remove and drain the oil from. I suggest you replace the coupler in the supercharger as well since it's probably getting old. Check the instructions in the first post of this thread for how to get to the coupler and where to buy it. Also I would get two bottles of GM supercharger oil off Amazon and you need about 1 1/4 or so bottles for the refill.
