TRD Supercharger 1st Gen (Gray Top)/Eaton M62 Complete Rebuild- Write Up

[GeoffCO]

Due to the location of the oil drain plug on the 1st gen superchargers you will have to remove the supercharger from the vehicle to change the oil. It's kind of a pain, but not a hard job to do. Once it's off there is a small port under the nose cone that you remove and drain the oil from. I suggest you replace the coupler in the supercharger as well since it's probably getting old. Check the instructions in the first post of this thread for how to get to the coupler and where to buy it. Also I would get two bottles of GM supercharger oil off Amazon and you need about 1 1/4 or so bottles for the refill.

You sure about the quantity of the oil needed in the supercharger?
You are making me doubting now. I've read that bottle came pre-mesured at 8oz. Don't tell me I'm wrong please...

 

[SCRunner12]

Positive, the TRD nose cone kit provides a 120 ml bottle of oil, which is 4.058 ounce. I like adding just a bit more because not all comes out of the bottle and it won't hurt.

 

[GeoffCO]

damn... Well I will have to take off 4oz then. I've read "this kit comes with a pre mesured bottle of 8oz GM oil"
In my head I was like, Pre-mesured, ok then...
I will try to remove the oil without taking off the SC. It's gonna make a mess but I'm sick of seeing my truck with the hood open.

Thank you for the quick answer!

 

[thatoneguygeoff]

Bookmarking this for when I need to overhaul mine!

 

[crutt]

I gotta pull out 4 ounces too then. Argh. Maybe this is why my nose seal is leaking after the rebuild?

 

[trdsuv]

"Just reseal and install the old elbow on the back of the supercharger. There should also be zero play in the supercharger now!"

How did you reseal and install the old elbow? With a O ring or a what type of seal?

Thanks.

 

[Jahmiroquai]

2 quick questions:

1). Has anyone found a source with torque specs for the various fasteners?

2). I found this kit on ebay. The brands of the seals are SKF. Wondering if that brand is OK, or is it cheap knockoff?

Picture in case the listing goes down:

 

[Rockdawg84]

2 quick questions:

1). Has anyone found a source with torque specs for the various fasteners?

2). I found this kit on ebay. The brands of the seals are SKF. Wondering if that brand is OK, or is it cheap knockoff?

Picture in case the listing goes down:

SKF are a quality bearing and Seal. You should be fine

 

[Jahmiroquai]

SKF are a quality bearing and Seal. You should be fine

Thanks!

Wondering how crucial torque specs on are the supercharger assembly, or if "tight enough" will work.

 

[Rockdawg84]

Thanks!

Wondering how crucial torque specs on are the supercharger assembly, or if "tight enough" will work.

I don't remember torque specs from when I rebuilt mine but I would make sure they are consistently tight.

 

[Jahmiroquai]

Here she is all buttoned up and ready to make boost!

Can I assume that any open hole in this picture is a mounting hole to bolt the S/C to the manifold?

Thanks!

 

[Bijan]

The tools and parts you will need to complete this rebuild are:
-1 Shop Press
-1 Professional Machinist (makes this job a lot easier!)
- Various Sockets/Pressing Tools
-1 Messed Up TRD Supercharger
-1 6303 Nachi Bearing Open C3 - $11
-1 6204 Nachi Bearing Open C3 - $7
-2 6203 Nachi Bearing Open C3 - $16 for both
-2 Rear Needle Bearings (Purchased these from Rolling Performance, part number on box is F-65477.1 or 6002544) - $20 for both
-1 Supercharger Coupler (Also from Rolling Performance) - $30
-1 Viton Nose Seal (Rolling Performance) - $13
-2 4oz Bottles of AC Delco Supercharger Oil - $9/bottle
-2 Rotor Pack Seals (The only place to find the correct sizes for these two seals is from Jon Bond Performance, they are expensive
https://jonbondperformance.com/inde...ducts_id=285&zenid=r69t5cr7jfom646vvseh0c2e37 ) - $65 for both
- 1 Tube of Permatex Red Gasket Maker - $15

So the total cost for all the materials is roughly $200. If this is your first time pressing in bearings it would probably be smart to buy a extra bearing or two since they are cheap. If you don't get them pressed in perfectly straight it is easy to tweak them and trash the bearing. Ask me how I know.
!

IS there any chance you can give me an updated version of this parts list please? Are the ceramic bearings from RollingPerformance THAT much better?

 

[Bijan]

02SE here is a pic of my rotor. What would you suggest I do? Strip the coating or run as is? If I run as is, I'm worried if getting flakes in the engine and causing problens. I'm not trying to squeeze every ounce of HP from the engine, just be able to go over the rockies without shifting into 3rd gear!!

Did Embree thermal-coat this?:spider:

 

[JayRolla]

Did Embree thermal-coat this?:spider:

How's that supercharger going?

 

[Bijan]

How's that supercharger going?

It's still on my rig. Still leaking but not much. 7th injector still sitting in my room.

I'm debating getting the whole thing rebuilt / powder coated / thermal coated from Embree or else selling it.

 

[Jahmiroquai]

It's still on my rig. Still leaking but not much. 7th injector still sitting in my room.

I'm debating getting the whole thing rebuilt / powder coated / thermal coated from Embree or else selling it.

I just sent mine off to Embree for rebuilding after getting in over my head trying to do it myself.

They have great reviews on here. Will let you know how it goes.

 

[Bijan]

I just sent mine off to Embree for rebuilding after getting in over my head trying to do it myself.

They have great reviews on here. Will let you know how it goes.

Are you opting for the thermal coating on the rotors?

 

[Jahmiroquai]

My rotors looked OK to me, but we'll see what they say

 

[masphx]

I removed that coating on mine. Did not want to spend the $$ to get them recoated. If i ever change mine mind it can always be done though. Just did not want the stuff flaking off into the engine since im running the 7th injector

 

[sambishop]

RIP to the greatest 1st gen supercharger rebuild thread. kinda usless without pictures :/