Truck Leaning

P

psea17

Member
Ok, I'm stumped. Have recently done a ton of work on my 4runner (original owner; 240k wonderful miles) including:

-new '99 tall front springs
-new bilstein 5100 shocks all around (front height set at lowest level)
-new OME 890 rear springs
-new front shock tophats
-new suspension bushings everywhere


when measuring the height from the bottom of the wheel well to the ground, i'm seeing the following:

- front: driver side is lower by .75" vs passenger side
- rear: driver side is lower by .75" vs passenger side

i've checked that the orientation of the springs are the same from side to side. tire pressure has been checked. all tires bought at the same time and are only a few months old. all front end related items were torqued to spec with the wheels on the ground.

Only thing I can think of: did I put the springs on the wrong side? can someone w/ the same springs tell me what colors are painted on ea side?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Panhard correction kit fixed my drivers side lean, but I have 3” of lift, maybe an adjustable bar would be better for you
 
If it didn't lean before and now after a new suspension it leans, it has to be something you put on. I will say that the top hats take a while to settle in so that might be your 1/2". If not I'd post up what color codes you have on what side and others who know them well can assist.
 
Check your sway bars as well. I put my lift on and had a lean which ended up somehow my swaybar bracket bent and was wedged upward so that it caused a slight lean.
 
Front spring colors:
driver side: blue/red
pass side: blue/yellow

sway bar is perfect. had no trouble lining it up with the end links
 
OME 2906s are side specific, are the 890s as well?

Yes, your front colours look right by my notes.
[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] has mentioned loosening then retorquing controll arms front and rear at the new ride height to allow the bushings to find their new comfort zone. Maybe this?
 
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I believe the 890‘s are not side specific. they also had no color indicators on them.

thanks for the input.
 
+1 for the control arms. If you have a lean you could have a sticking bushing or a frozen bushing that is really bound up causing the suspension to bind especially in the rear. I also believe the driver side is slightly heavier then the passenger side. As the gas tank is there and transfer case is more on the right side if 4WD that is.
 
ill check them but all the bushings are new. the front sway bar was just reinstalled recently because I installed a new steering rack. up front looked ....well, right. torqued everything to spec.

regarding weight, you are correct. driver side sag is a common problem but I wouldn't expect it after just reinstalling new springs and shocks up front.

really appreciate all the input! hopefully will get this figured out soon. it drives me nuts knowing there's a sag w all new gear.
 
psea17 said:
I believe the 890‘s are not side specific. they also had no color indicators on them.

thanks for the input.
Click to expand...

No, they don’t have color codes. The 2906s have a tag a or B indicating sides. I really can’t say if the 890s do also.

You might need a 5mm trim packer on the drivers rear if the 890s are both exactly the same.
 
I have the same issue after installing Toytec coilovers and 1” body lift. I’m convinced it’s due to driving without a passenger. Just need to wait for the suspension to settle. Hasn’t happened following installation due to this covid nonsense.
 
let's approach this slightly differently.

- first ill check the center bolt on the springs to make sure one isn't compressed more than the other. we have ruled out the front springs being installed on the wrong side.


- second, if I disconnect the sway bars front and back from the end links and the issue remains, is it fair to say that's not the problem? should I drive around a bit with them disconnected?

- third, if neither address the problem, would I do any harm. adjusting the bilstein 5100 circlip on the driver's side to the next ring up? that would add .6" to the driver's side.

- last could the upper control arm play any role here? my passenger side arm had some play in it recently (after doing the bushings). I thought the problem was a broken endlink. once fixed, the noise remained. so I tightened it up about a 1/4“ more to remove the play from side to side.
 
No one has suggested sway bars. No need to touch those. Control arm bushings are the ones you might have to reset.

As ser1 just confirmed, looks like 890s are side specific. 50/50 chance yours went in the wrong way?? Maybe? I’d look here first.
 
Yes, 890's are side specific, "A" and "B" on little white tags on the springs, but if those are gone, the drivers side spring is slightly taller than the passenger side spring.
 
brillo_76 said:
+1 for the control arms. If you have a lean you could have a sticking bushing or a frozen bushing that is really bound up causing the suspension to bind especially in the rear. I also believe the driver side is slightly heavier then the passenger side. As the gas tank is there and transfer case is more on the right side if 4WD that is.
Click to expand...

apologies, i thought someone mentioned the sway bar. are you talking about the upper or lower control arms? or both?

how would I "reset" them? loosen the upper control arm's thru bolt?
 
psea17 said:
apologies, i thought someone mentioned the sway bar. are you talking about the upper or lower control arms? or both?

how would I "reset" them? loosen the upper control arm's thru bolt?
Click to expand...

Yes the 5 bars that hold your rear end in place. Loosen the bolts up then retighten them its probably not the lateral control arm (panhard). but while you are there I figured it wouldnt hurt. :-)

Those bushing can freeze and not function properly.
 
Springs are side dependant. A and B. Also as everyone has already stated, common practice is to torque the suspension (all suspension) bolts with the weight of the vehicle on them. Basically, loosen all the bolts set vehicle on the ground and torque the bolts, the bushings bind if you torque them with the car off the ground.
 
2TH,
Yes, I'm aware of that. everything was originally torqued to spec while on the tires as I believe I alluded to in my first post.

just thinking out loud. I mentioned I tightened the pass side UCA past torque specs last week because there was play side to side and was making noise. in theory, that could have forced the UCA to move towards the ground. perhaps that's it. will probably start there.
 
A few people have now confirmed that the 890s are side specific. Have you confirmed yours are in correctly?

I’d put my energy there First if I were you. And it’s easy to deal with.
 
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