Trying to find a Contura 3-way switch...
- Thread starter farmerjon
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Kurtis
New member
If I remember correctly:
Dependent: LED uses the same power that you are allowing to pass through the switch.
Independent: LED uses a separate power. And works well for dash lights.
Mine:
Top LED runs off the same power as my dash lights. (Independent)
Bottom LED runs off of what I am allowing to pass through the switch when it's ON so it lights up what circuit is energized. (Dependent)
"3X Throw" is referencing the 3 positions. ON-ON-OFF. Only in this case "Throw = Position"
farmerjon
Senior Member
If I remember correctly:
Dependent: LED uses the same power that you are allowing to pass through the switch.
Independent: LED uses a separate power. And works well for dash lights.
Mine:
Top LED runs off the same power as my dash lights. (Independent)
Bottom LED runs off of what I am allowing to pass through the switch when it's ON so it lights up what circuit is energized. (Dependent)
"3X Throw" is referencing the 3 positions. ON-ON-OFF. Only in this case "Throw = Position"
Nice switch setup! Very cool! I like how all the blue LEDs match, especially with the headunit.
So if they are independent, then I will need to wire them to something ignition related, so that they don't drain my battery?
In my current setup (simple ON/OFF switch rigged to the battery), the switch light stays on, even when power to the rig is cut, so I have to unplug the switch every time I let the vehicle sit for more than a few hours.
Kurtis
New member
That is correct. I used the wire on my clock since I removed my clock and put a volt meter there instead.
You can make a Independent LED a Dependent LED by using a jumper wire on the back of the switch. Just make the output of your switch (going to the lights) also go to the input for the LED.
Also, before we get to far out there. You should always wire your lights with a relay. A middle of the road relay can handle 40 amps where a switch does 20 amps on a good day. It will prevent vehicle fires. Also make sure you have an inline fuse for the light circuit.
I just found this link. It might help a little.
Using Relays To Wiring Off Road Lights And Accessories
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farmerjon
Senior Member
That is correct. I used the wire on my clock since I removed my clock and put a volt meter there instead.
You can make a Independent LED a Dependent LED by using a jumper wire on the back of the switch. Just make the output of your switch (going to the lights) also go to the input for the LED.
Also, before we get to far out there. You should always wire your lights with a relay. A middle of the road relay can handle 40 amps where a switch does 20 amps on a good day. It will prevent vehicle fires. Also make sure you have an inline fuse for the light circuit.
I just found this link. It might help a little.
On the one switch I mentioned, it has "Factory installed jumper between terminals 2 and 5.", so I suppose that will help to make the lights dependent, should I choose to do so?
The lights on the front of my rig are Hella Ralleye 1000's, they came with an inline fuse and relay, that's already installed. So that's out of the way.
You posted that link as an image, so it didn't show up
I saw it when I went to quote your post, thanks! All the help is much appreciated, Kurtis! I find that when I learn new things, I need lots of explanation, so I've learned a bit today! Thanks again!
Kurtis
New member
On the one switch I mentioned, it has "Factory installed jumper between terminals 2 and 5.", so I suppose that will help to make the lights dependent, should I choose to do so?
The lights on the front of my rig are Hella Ralleye 1000's, they came with an inline fuse and relay, that's already installed. So that's out of the way.
You posted that link as an image, so it didn't show up
All the help is much appreciated, Kurtis! I find that when I learn new things, I need lots of explanation, so I've learned a bit today! Thanks again!
I'd have to see the diagram for the terminal for sure but that does sound correct.
Glad I could help!
rideexileex
Senior Member
You guys have the right thinking in mind, but way way off in application. Look at this thread post for an idea. Just apply the idea to aux lights and high beams.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/133758-electrical-guru-s-2.html#post1283924
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/133758-electrical-guru-s-2.html#post1283924
farmerjon
Senior Member
Ok so here is one way you can achieve what your wanting but uses three relays and a ON-OFF-ON switch. The high bean would override everything btw
This is rough and could be refined a bit for les contact points but hope it helps
I have no idea how to read wiring diagrams, I need to learn... Hopefully this will come in handy when I wire up the lights down the road a bit though. Thanks!
Again, I know nothing about wiring, so I have no idea what I'm reading... sorry
rideexileex
Senior Member
well, you'll need a SPDT / single pole, double throw switch /on-off-on switch. Start with that...
smkd13
New member
I have no idea how to read wiring diagrams, I need to learn... Hopefully this will come in handy when I wire up the lights down the road a bit though. Thanks!
Again, I know nothing about wiring, so I have no idea what I'm reading... sorry
Ok so when I drew that up I got confused. You have the brights come on regularly using the stock switch.
Then you want a position on the switch that will toggle the brights only when the lights are completely off? (No low beams on)
Then you want an aux only position an a both position.
The only problem that I see with this is that you have no way to keep them completely off. Any position will have a light on. So I am slightly confused about that. That diagram had a over-ride for the brights that will kill the operation of the switch if using the stock switch.
I think you would be better off having a switch that was aux/ off / both and then the brights from stock switch.
A little more clarification would be appreciated as the highs only seems like you would have two switches that do the same thing
farmerjon
Senior Member
Gah, I'm getting more and more turned around. Would the switch linked to earlier from OTRATTW work?
smkd13
New member
BrianSD_42
New member
OP,
I just have to say: is it really worth this much trouble to do it all with o e switch. Wouldn't it be best to just do it with 2 simple switches and call it a day.
I just have to say: is it really worth this much trouble to do it all with o e switch. Wouldn't it be best to just do it with 2 simple switches and call it a day.
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