Hey guys,
A few thoughts. first, my status. As best I can tell, my problems originated from the pos cs144 alternators. They weren't charging well and my battery was damaged. putting a solid alternator in just exaggerated the battery's death.
I redid my positive wire from alternator to battery. I also redid all grounds. i'm starting to find having a plusnut tool is the bomb!! Now that there's a new battery, I'm not having any problems. Battery stays charged. There's no corrosion on any contacts after a few months and there's no battery gassing.
On to a few other topics discussed. My understanding of amps is that, provided there aren't any issues with the alternator, amps decrease substantially as the battery gets to the fully charged state. So regardless of the alternator's potential or max output, it's not putting that out at all times. I only see this happening on the rare occasion I need to winch. I don't really wheel. But I do travel solo from time to time. Got stuck ONCE. Never again.
As for the wiring to the fuse box, again, my understanding is that you wire/fuse for the draw. I'm not drawing anything of any additional import. I have a stereo and amp and that's about it. They've been in the truck for 24 years. No issue. No aftermkt light bars or accessories that would be considered a big draw. I like keeping my 4r looking close to stock but for a small lift. So there's no reason I should need to boost the wiring to a fuse box that isn't any more tasked than a completely stock vehicle.
Look at it this way, couldn't you add a 12awg to the battery to power something small? Of course, as long as the 12awg is suitable for the DRAW, it's not a problem. I believe the same applies here. I maintained the same gauge when I extended the fuse box wiring. I have no concerns here. The battery is only going to put out what is drawn from it. all large gauge wiring is oversized, uses FTZ lugs/crimper, are double crimped and incorporates adhesive lined shrink wrap.
Appreciate everyone chiming in. Hope everyone has a safe and happy holiday. I'm on to my next set of projects:
1. new tires. sticking w 265/75/16 but going back to load range C as I won't be towing a trailer much longer and I really think this was the main contributing factor to my mileage dropping around town a bit. still got 21mpg on my recent trip to ouray, co.
not sure if this (tires) is why my steering is sticky going around corners from time to time (it's not persistent). tread is starting to get a little low. it has a new steering rack, new ps pump and reservoir (all oem) and the fluid is relatively new. So not sure what else it could be. it's a relatively recent thing. any thoughts appreciated.
2. axle swap (new seals) and rear 4:30 elocker (overhauled by zuk)
3. brand new front elocker and a re-gear to 4:30 (fr 4:10) (zuk's the man!)
4. new front differential bushings
5. new oil cooler seal
6. drop oil pan and redo the seal
7. new door actuators all the way around. had an interesting thought here. I think I'm going to put a switch inline to the rear door actuator so I can disable it. this would likely stump any thief trying to get into the rear cargo system I'm planning to build. If you can't unlock the door via the powered lock/unlock button and you don't have a key, you're probably going to move on to an easier target. If you can't open the door, you won't be able to access the cargo draw's content without a heck of a fight.
8. attach a kickass shower tent. got their little lithium powered shower head too. looks like a great compact system. i may double it's use as a sink faucet.
9. install and plumb a ironman 4x4 13gal water tank against the back seat. it will sit betw the back seat and the cargo system I'm building. the cargo system is going to straddle the wheel wells. the single draw will hang below that. I don't see a need to have a box inside a box. one draw w/ oversized slides. i'll route out the inside walls a bit to incorporate draw dividers in a number of configurations. the front of the draw will double as a table w/ two piano hinges thus allowing it to unfold twice the height of the draw. should create plenty of table top space and i'll be able to adjust it easily so it's always a level cooking surface. i'll be able to pull the draw out while still using it as a table to get at whatever. i can't think of a lighter, simple design. i've read A LOT.
10. fix or replace the windshield fluid tank
11. install the rad rubber liners I've been sitting on for a year
12. extend the manual transmission breather up into the dash
13. extend the breathers in the engine bay (already did the rear diff breather long ago)
14. rewire the radar
15. spare belts and a LBJ
....and head down to baja for a few weeks to celebrate it's completion.
I LOVE this truck. Bought new. Still no rust. Love'em and they'll love you back for a long, long time.
Really appreciate this community.
Thus creating more amperage. The next obstacle is the temperature issue. 
