Tundra brake upgrade parts sources update

[shiftmx]

If you did the TBU upgrade, can you please list where you sourced your parts (AutoZone, Advance, Napa, etc...). Also, how many miles do you have on the setup and how has the parts quality been holding up. I have read BFAD's entire TBU thread but very few people gave long term updates if any. Right now Autozone is my best local source, but if people have been having issues, I will order the parts elsewhere.

 

[JohnMc]

I got the rotors and calipers from Advance. They always have these crazy coupon deals floating around. If you show up in the store and buy it, you get a normal price. If you pause just short of the register and buy it online, you get it significantly cheaper (30% is common).

I have about 20, 25K on my Tundra 231's so far, nothing to report. They work just fine. They haven't started shuddering. #success

Only slight issue I had with mine is that the new calipers were bare steel. I should have slapped some paint on them. A week later they were a solid rust color. When my wife did the same swap on hers (can't recall where she got the parts) he calipers came with a zinc/cadmium/whatever coating, they still look great a few years later.

Oh, and nothing to report on her Tundra 231's either. She's had them on her truuck a lot longer. maybe 50K miles? Possibly more.

 

[Millerad1651]

I got my calipers from the yard for $60, spent $35 rebuilding and painting them.
I got the rotors and pads from Amazon, $120 shipped.
Amazon.com: Callahan FRONT Premium Grade OE 318.77 mm [2] Rotors + [4] Quiet Low Dust Ceramic Brake Pads Kit CFP40474B: Automotive

Got to keep the stock calipers, so if I sell them that'll knock my overall price down.

Have about 1k on them...night and day difference, everything works great so far.

 

[0xfded]

Basically the same as Millerad. Picked up a set of yard calipers for $60, and put another $30 into them in a rebuild kit and caliper paint, then another $30 on stainless steel speedbleeders (cause I hate rust, and caliper parts rust fast due to the heat.)

Then picked up a set of rotors from Amazon. Plenty to pick from--I went with these centric rotors for the anti-rust treatment.

Awesome upgrade, had no issues with spongy brakes or anything. Just smooth, sure-as-hell stops.

 

[jmildoc]

I also got my calipers from the same yard as Millerad did, almost a year ago now.

Got wagner ceramic pads on amazon for about $30

Then got wagner or brembo rotors from Advance with an awesome coupon, I think I spent about $185 including the caliper paint.

 

[shootmymime]

Check my build thread on parts and specs. I did the 231mm upgrade. Been about 8k miles since and I don't show much pad wear. I have pulled a 5x8 trailer cross country through Colorado mountains and worked great!

 

[shiftmx]

Thanks for the updates guys. I was thinking about getting the calipers from autozone. I think a few people said they already had a finish on them and it's an easy return for my cores. The rotors and pads I may get from Advance since I can get wagner rotors and akebono pads for 30-40% off depending on the coupon. These should be better than the duralast rotors and pads...maybe.

 

[tre9er]

Everything from Advanced with codes (2 separate purchases due to max discount restrictions). Spent about $250 total after cores. They didn't even look in the box. I called back to see if my caliper pins were still in the old cores, they looked, still didn't say a word. I don't think it's plainly visible to someone without a side-by-side.

I painted my calipers because though they looked coated (a matte grey) they showed signs of rust after sitting in the garage overnight.

 

[Flatulento]

Tundra 199mm Brake Upgrade
2005 Tundra 4x4 V8

Rotors $44.39 x 2 Advance Auto (20% online discount) YH145291

Calipers $66.39 x 2 Advance Auto (20% online discount) SLC9688 & SLC9689 (S13WE)

Pads $21.99 Advance Auto MKD812

Brake Fluid Dot4 $7.99

Brake Cleaner $2.50

Bleeder Tool $1.71

Tax (7.96%) 20.36

Total = $276.12

So far (about 2 months), they work great, calipers have surface rust, and clear the stock split-3 wheels. No complaints. I may upgrade to 231's at some point in the distant future. If so, I can use the same rotors and just change calipers and pads (and wheels or spacers, of course).

 

[shiftmx]

So it looks like the consensus on Advance calipers are that they should painted before install due to surface rust. Has anyone else experienced this with another brand caliper or were they coated properly out of the box?

 

[jmildoc]

Here's a couple pics for ya.

 

[MVP]

Paid $100 plus tax for my calipers and rotors from a local junkyard.
Paid another $25 for Caliper paint and brake cleaner and brake fluid.
Paid around $10 for tax on all of the above parts and supplies.

The donor vehicle was a Tundra built in Oct 2002, with 231s.
Took my time over a week to disassemble, clean, paint, and reassemble.
The parts were off a clean truck and in very nice shape.

It's not for everyone, but I essentially paid around $140 for the entire swap.....

 

[dozerfrelich]

So do you have to run a spacer with the tbu if you have the six spoke rims?

 

[Millerad1651]

Yes. Or grind the caliper or wheel. Or you can do the 199mm upgrade, which would still be an upgrade over stock.

 

[slapdappy]

2002 sequoia calipers with pads from junk yard, $100
rebuild kit from local dealer, $12
Tundra rotors from Olathe.com, $120
Speedbleeders, $25
dremel for trimming dust shield and learning lessons

 

[Troybylt]

HUGE Shout Out to BigFishAllDay, with out his Spec's and and Measurement's threat I don't think I would have even attempted this!

199mm TBU (Didn't want to grind anything more than the dust sheild, did plan on towing or want to unbalance my brake system have too much pedal travel yadda yadda)

Calipers from NAPA Re-man'ed Toyota 13WL I think I paid about $120 each came painted gloss black, they now look like brake dust and mud.

Pad's and Rotor's I got directly from Toyota with my old employee discount, I don't recall what they ran me as I didn't get a receipt. (I considered going with Advance/Napa/auto zone/oriley/whatever for rotors but Toyota had much more defined cooling vents and more cooling vents per inch they also looked like one piece as apposed to layered flat steel)

I did NOT use shims, I haven't had a problem or squeal yet.

Brake's work fecking fantastic after 12k couldn't be happier considering the old rotor's were metal to metal and felt like a 4.2 on the Richter scale when stopping.

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