Turbo Build

[Myrunr2010]

Picked this up today (or ordered it). Still just compiling parts. Not all my exhaust stuff has come in yet, so I’m at a standstill on any sort of fab, and I got a lot of housework to tackle.

Amazon.com: Bosch SP0F000050 Style Line 2" Mechanical Vacuum/Boost Gauge (Black Dial Face, Black Bezel): Automotive

Total with tax/shipping came to 38.15

I also did a bunch of spark plug research. Clownmeat said he went with a 2 stage colder plug (NGK bkr7e), but that plug isn’t twin tipped. I found the BKR7EKC-N that is twin tipped, but that gap is a lot smaller than stock. Decided to see what the S.C. guys are running. Looks like they recommend the BCPR-7ET’s, which I think is what I’ll ultimately spring for. They’re 6.87 a plug!

 

[Myrunr2010]

Too bad the OP didn't link the previous builds, but the guys who have done remote-mount setups one these trucks didn't complain about lag.

Sorry, just assumed his build thread was already stuff of legends (turbo, home cooked paddle shifters, started on a home cooked 7th/8th injector), lol. I’ll swing back by the original post and edit it to include the link to his thread.

Clownmeat's build thread

 

[gamefreakgc]

I’m just gonna assume that was directed at me because I didn’t see anyone else mentioning lag. I’m definitely not hating. I’m here because I love turbos. Having owned both supercharged and turbo, and one car that had each installed at different times, I will almost always pick a turbo over a supercharger. Op wants to go turbo? that’s cool and I wish him best of luck. Would love to see a solid turbo solution here.

As advanced as turbos are there is no getting around the fact that the exhaust is gonna have to travel all the way back there and past the cat before it can gets to the turbo and start to spool. Lag will be an issue

No not necessarily you, mostly the first page comments. I do get that the longer the intake pipe, the more it can't escape the fact that the pipe has to pressurize before the intake does, totally get you there. And a rear mount turbo pipe will be long. But if one puts in a quick spooling turbo it may not be felt too much. I've seen some rear mount turbo systems that are a blast to drive and doesn't lag much at all.

 

[Pj Benn]

Did some reading on the forums. I got sidetracked by the under hood turbo builds though lol. My only experience with turbos is on different platforms for different purposes. I shouldn’t have brushed off your comment about using the right size turbo for this to work with minimal lag. You were right people have made this work and I didn’t see complaints about lag

 

[Myrunr2010]

All of my exhaust parts finally came in. Managed to fab this up today. Decided to wait to put my elbow and flange on until I have the turbo and muffler to make sure im cutting the pipe at the right place for where I want everything placed under the vehicle.

 

[Myrunr2010]

Also bought my turbo and a muffler today.

Not sure if I mentioned this before, but I don't want it to be straight piped after the turbo because im concerned about it being too loud and just annoying to drive around. I'm also concerned about having an obnoxious turbo whistle all the time. I live around several large diesel trucks that I can hear coming from a few blocks away because of the whistle, I don't want to be that guy. Maybe when I was 18, but not now, lol.

So, I bought a cheap, small muffler (single chamber, 2 baffles) that should help quiet the exhaust down even more, and should help prevent the turbo whistle.

Amazon.com: AUTOSAVER88 3" Inlet/Outlet Muffler, Single Chamber Universal Stainless Steel, High Performance Exhaust Muffler For Cars: Automotive

For the turbo, I went with the specs of what clownmeat used. He seemed to have decent results. I did go with an internally gated turbo in lieu of buying an external waste gate. I'm sure like all ebay links on threads...it'll die before too long. So run down of specs. Its a T04e, Compressor A/R 0.53, Trim 57, Exhaust A/R 0.63, Trim 58.

T04E T3/T4 .63 TURBO TURBOCHARGER COMPRESSOR 300+HP W/ INTERNAL WASTEGATE V-BAND | eBay

Cost for each
Turbo - 137.75
Muffler - 27.55

Brings my total project cost to
$348 even

 

[Dieselchessy]

Sounds like a cool project.

How do you plan to route oil back to the turbo?
What do you plan as far as heat shielding?
Are you running an inter cooler or just plumbing right into the intake?

Having spent plenty of time under these rigs I can’t imagine it will be fun to fit a turbo, oil lines, and air pipes under there.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

 

[99t4runna]

Wouldnt it be better to get it supercharged for more low end torque for towing?

 

[Myrunr2010]

Sounds like a cool project.

How do you plan to route oil back to the turbo?
What do you plan as far as heat shielding?
Are you running an inter cooler or just plumbing right into the intake?

Having spent plenty of time under these rigs I can’t imagine it will be fun to fit a turbo, oil lines, and air pipes under there.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

There is a plug on the block near the oil filter that I plan to get the supply from, return will go back up into the oil filler cap.

No heat shielding. Since I’m putting it where the current muffler is, there is already a heat shield there.

Just plumbing it straight in. I’ll have to go back and look at the numbers from his thread, but clownmeat saw intake temps astound 125 I believe. The length of intake piping essentially acts as it’s own intercooler.

Edit: Went and dug through his thread. He said “ So as you can see here with a rear mount turbo I am seeing intake air temps at 100 degrees normal driving and about 135 degrees with a pull after pull workout. I think it's pretty awesome compared to the 200+ degrees the supercharged ones see. One more reason the stock fuel system can keep up without pinging also.”

 

[Dieselchessy]

So your more or less copying his setup.

Do you have a lift and a 2” body lift like he has?
It looks like that body lift was important for the air pipe routing back to the intake.

 

[Myrunr2010]

So your more or less copying his setup.

Do you have a lift and a 2” body lift like he has?
It looks like that body lift was important for the air pipe routing back to the intake.

Yeah, that’s the plan. Use his as a blueprint to try my own and see what I learn along the way.

I do, but if you check out the STS kit, they manage without a body lift I believe.

 

[Dieselchessy]

Cool. I personally wouldn’t do more than a 1” body lift, but the turbo setup is interesting. Be interested to see how yours turns out.
Really curious how the turbo you bought works out. At that price even if they only last several years it wouldn’t be bad.

 

[Myrunr2010]

Cool. I personally wouldn’t do more than a 1” body lift, but the turbo setup is interesting. Be interested to see how yours turns out.
Really curious how the turbo you bought works out. At that price even if they only last several years it wouldn’t be bad.

Yup, or if I want to see how different turbos spool etc, only 100 bucks to test it out

 

[Myrunr2010]

Well, turbo came in yesterday. Was planning to finish fabing up the exhaust, but my 90 degree elbow was sent with the wrong size flange. I think it’s got a t4 on it instead of a t3. Guess I’ll have to wait a little longer while I order more parts

 

[Myrunr2010]

Learning a little lesson in proper planning. I ordered my muffler and all before I ordered the turbo, and assumed it would all be 3” pipe. Turbo outlet is 2.5”. So I need another 2.5 to 3” exhaust coupling.

Recent orders:
Craven Speed gauge mount - 119
2.5” to 3” coupling - 15.85
T3 flange - 20.58
Wideband - 161.95

 

[Myrunr2010]

Most all the parts I've ordered are in (except a boost gauge which just doesn't seem to want to show up). Should have everything I need to finish getting the exhaust fab'ed up this weekend.

CravenSpeed Gauge mount came in. I'm happy with it, it looks sharp and good build quality. I did have some issues with the install. The boss on the mount that is supposed to interface with the steering wheel was ~1/16th too large. I contacted them and they were super quick to respond, great customer service. Ultimately they said they're not sure what the issue is, and they'd be happy to process a return if that's what I wanted. Just took the grinder to it and took it down a bit. Not sure which orientation i'll ultimately leave it in, close together or farther apart.

Also, can someone explain to me how to rotate my pictures so they're not sideways?! does it just have to do with the orientation that im taking the picture in?!
Edit: these show up in the correct orientation on my phone but not my laptop?!?

 

[Pj Benn]

I like the placement of those gauge pods over a a pillar mount. What all do they block though?

 

[Ed_C]

At first I thought you posted the same pic twice, then realized you adjusted the gauge pod placement :laugh:

What gauges are you getting? I don't think you mentioned it before.

 

[Myrunr2010]

I like the placement of those gauge pods over a a pillar mount. What all do they block though?

Looks like mostly various warning lights. I tried to make sure I took the picture from eye level to give a good reference as to what it’ll actually look like to drive. The mount was certainly more expensive, but I think I like it better.

 

[Myrunr2010]

At first I thought you posted the same pic twice, then realized you adjusted the gauge pod placement :laugh:

What gauges are you getting? I don't think you mentioned it before.

I was originally planning on a cheap mechanical boost gauge, but the seller created a shipping label like 3 weeks ago and never took it to the post office, so that’s been cancelled.

AEM wideband Amazon.com: AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge: Automotive

Auto meter boost gauge Amazon.com: Auto Meter 2601 Z-Series 2" Mechanical Vacuum/Boost Gauge: Automotive