Turbo Build

[Myrunr2010]

Finished building the exhaust this weekend (back to the turbo), which took significantly longer than expected. Because im planning to run a muffler, I need to place the turbo farther forward than others have done, so I ended up needing to put a bend in the pipe in order to provide more clearance between the pipe and the body. Overall i'm happy with how it turned out. I started working on building the rest of the exhaust from the turbo back, ended up running out of welding wire though.

Before anyone ask, yes im running the wideband pre-turbo. Instructions for it said after the turbo but before the cat...which I literally can't do. Given that im running a very low amount of boost in the grand scheme of people boosting vehicles, I don't think it'll be a huge issue. I also wasn't sure how on earth i'd be able to run it post turbo, although there might have been enough wire, it would be close for sure. I guess if I notice anything wonky once its all hooked up/im making boost i'll look in to moving it.

I also got my gauges installed today. I'm pleased with how they look and the quality of the CravenSpeed mount. I ended up needing to sand down the gauge though in order to get it to fit into the bracket, which was frustrating/time consuming. A lot of sand a little, try it out, sand a little more, try again. So all in all, the gauge mount looks great, and is very sturdy, but I had several issues with install that make me hesitant to recommend it to anyone.

Next thing to tackle is oiling. I want to get that done semi quick so I can get the turbo bolted on, so it will hopefully quiet my exhaust down some. Its obnoxiously loud right now, and our 6 cylinders don't really sound that great with an open exhaust like that.

Updated cost.
12 bucks on some m10 bolts at ACE
26.48 on more 3" pipe
47.23 on more cut off wheels and welding wire

 

[Ed_C]

Pre turbo placement is fine; they basically say not to because installing pre-turbo on a "normal" turbo vehicle would mean locating it at/by the header/manifold collector which would end up burning out the sensor.

 

[Myrunr2010]

Finished up the exhaust this weekend, probably would have been significantly easier/better looking if I had more than an angle grinder and harbor freight flux core machine, but, its done. The V-band clamp on the right side of the picture will mate up to a v-band I put on the muffler.

On a side note, had to buy more wire for the welder. I was skeptical of this wire because it was so cheap (paid 40 for a 10lb spool, which is ~20-30 bucks cheaper than normal low grade stuff from lowes). Its not bad, little more splatter than what I was getting with the more expensive stuff, but for that price, you can't beat it!
YESWELDER Flux Core Mig Wire, Mild Steel E71TGS.035-Diameter, 10-Pound Spool - - Amazon.com

Also finished my research on the oiling system. Scavange pump + supply and return lines around gonna run me just north of 300 bucks. I'll post links to everything with cost once I actually pull the trigger and buy them. Which im gonna wait a week or two to pull the trigger on. I need to get the MR2 running right (hot start issues, plus its running a little lean when cruising/not during WOT) and the bike (weird power drop outs, feels like its running on 1 cylinder). Ordered to parts/supplies for both. Hoping to maybe work on those next weekend. We'll see.

 

[Myrunr2010]

Just to document, because I saw an argument on another rear mount thread, and if I don’t write it down I’ll forget in a week.

Idle AFR is pretty consistently 15.1
Cruising down the highway at 65-70 my AFR’s bounce between 14.9 and 15.3

 

[Dom8706]

Very interested in hearing the outcome of this. This is beyond my skill level sadly. I wish they made a all in one turbo kit.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Just to document, because I saw an argument on another rear mount thread, and if I don’t write it down I’ll forget in a week.

Idle AFR is pretty consistently 15.1
Cruising down the highway at 65-70 my AFR’s bounce between 14.9 and 15.3

That's what happens to mine when the O2 sensors are old or fouled. If you'd rather see it bounce between 14.4-15.0 replace the front O2 sensor.

Oh btw, once you richen up the tune you'll be buying front O2 sensors annually. Mine last between 6-12 months.

 

[Myrunr2010]

Well, I know I said I was going to wait a few weeks before ordering oiling stuff...but, I lied. I'm sure I've probably missed something or will need to order more. This was by far the most exhausting/research heavy part of the project so far. So many types of fittings and connections needed, and the distance it has to go adds more to it.

All said, with taxes and shipping it ran ~350, which brings my project total to 1050. I think with the intake/charge piping and spark plugs still to get, I will easily be around 1200 on the project total.

Adapter to thread in to the block where the oil pressure sensor is that will allow me to run the sensor still.
1/8'' BSPT Oil Pressure Sensor Tee to NPT Adapter Turbo Supply Feed Line Meter | eBay

Thread adapter to go from NPT of the adapter to the AN fitting for the feed line
Amazon.com: ICT Billet Straight -4AN Flare Male to 1/8"NPT Pipe Adapter Fitting 4 AN Bare Aluminum National Pipe Thread Designed & Manufactured in the USA AN816-04-02A: Automotive

I measured it out, and i'll need ~10/11 foot of feed line to get all the way back to the turbo. Longest I could find by itself was 72". I reached out to a tuner place that made custom feed lines, and they could make a 11' one, but it was going to cost over 100 bucks. I'm sure I could have probably gone to a local hydraulic supply company and had one made, but, I didn't want to spend the time driving around asking questions and getting cost and all.
Amazon.com: Allstar Performance ALL46110-72 (72") Gauge Line Kit: Automotive
-4AN Straight to 90 Degree Stainless Steel Braided Turbo Oil Feed Line Hose 72" | eBay

Turbo flanges and AN swivel fittings for connection of the feed and return lines. It was cheaper to buy a kit like this rather than try to buy one piece at a time.
Amazon.com: Turbo Charger Oil Drain Return Line Oil Feed Complete Kit T3 T4 T04E T60 T61 T70 Silver: Automotive

The pump itself
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Electric-Scavenge-Pump-for-Turbo-Oil-Feed-3-7-GPM-12VDC-AN10/163856901638?epid=673140250&hash=item2626a1e606:g:bjAAAOSw77pbVoZ9

Oil return line. 10AN seems to be the common size for this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N29WNLL/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_k2e0Eb9AT4W3Y

Fitting to put in to my oil cap
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X993DVZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_Zaf0Eb6V22HVX

Swivel fitting to connect the oil return in to the oil cap fitting
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y1LFZW2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_mgf0EbTAN0VT1

 

[phattyduck]

Before anyone ask, yes im running the wideband pre-turbo. Instructions for it said after the turbo but before the cat...which I literally can't do. Given that im running a very low amount of boost in the grand scheme of people boosting vehicles, I don't think it'll be a huge issue.

Aside from heat (which is an issue pre-turbo), the actual reason to avoid pre-turbo wide-band O2 sensors is accuracy. The AF ratio sensing is all relative to atmospheric pressure, and if there is any significant pressure on the exhaust side of the sensor, it will read incorrectly.

Wideband back pressure information | CPG Nation Forum

Important Tips to Get the Maximum Life Out of your O2 Sensor - Innovate Blog

No use in spending the money on a wideband then ruining it quickly while getting bad data from it...

Also, regarding the turbo oil-drain. You will either need to run the scavange pump post-engine shutdown or run a small catch reservoir to keep from pushing oil past the turbo oil seals. Watch for excessive oil out the exhaust from the setup you are currently planning...

-Charlie

 

[Myrunr2010]

Also, regarding the turbo oil-drain. You will either need to run the scavange pump post-engine shutdown or run a small catch reservoir to keep from pushing oil past the turbo oil seals. Watch for excessive oil out the exhaust from the setup you are currently planning...

-Charlie

Forgot to mention, I was given a turbo timer from a friend

 

[phattyduck]

Forgot to mention, I was given a turbo timer from a friend

The oil leaks past the oil seals after engine shutdown - a turbo timer won't help with low-mount turbo oil issues exactly...

My turbo timer is annoying when I'm late getting to work or an appointment. But at least it is there for a reason. :wave:

-Charlie

 

[G_Raw]

I need this to be finished. It'll be a beast. Face out the window feeling the wind in my hair then im :zoom: full face stretch. Nice change up to the norm SC build. You got my wheels turning...

I just started working on a forester STI project... I'm about the turbo life


Post pics for me!

 

[Dieselchessy]

Does anyone running one of these setups have concern with drawing oil volume off the engine at the pressure sensor?

It seems these things idle at about 4psi.

 

[Myrunr2010]

Might be in a position to get all the oiling stuff installed this weekend (got the bike and mr2 running good for now), and I want to get some other opinions on what I’m planning for the turbo timer. I emailed Greddy’s tech support, and their response was “we’ve never used it in an application like that, here’s a link to our manual”, so that was worthless.

It’s a Greddy Full Auto Timer, which has all sorts of functionality I’ll never use. Looking at the first picture I’m thinking it would be safe to assume I don’t need to be concerned with hooking up the parking/speed harness since I will never use it like Greddy intended (yet their tech couldn’t answer me if the unit will still function without those wires being connected).

Looking at the second picture, here is my thought process/assumptions.

12v -> red, should be to any 12v constant power, this is what will keep the pump running once the motor is off.
Blue -> ACC, should be anything that has power when the key is in the ACC position but not when the key is removed. My assumption here is that this is how the unit knows that you’ve turned the motor off and how to start the countdown timer to kill power to the pump.
Green -> to pump?
Black -> ground

 

[Myrunr2010]

Does anyone running one of these setups have concern with drawing oil volume off the engine at the pressure sensor?

It seems these things idle at about 4psi.

What I’ve read before is that folks end up adding ~quart to compensate for the extra oil being diverted. I have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge though and once the motor gets good and warm I run between 15 and 20 psi. Something I plan to keep an eye on.

 

[Bad Luck]

Might be in a position to get all the oiling stuff installed this weekend (got the bike and mr2 running good for now), and I want to get some other opinions on what I’m planning for the turbo timer. I emailed Greddy’s tech support, and their response was “we’ve never used it in an application like that, here’s a link to our manual”, so that was worthless.

It’s a Greddy Full Auto Timer, which has all sorts of functionality I’ll never use. Looking at the first picture I’m thinking it would be safe to assume I don’t need to be concerned with hooking up the parking/speed harness since I will never use it like Greddy intended (yet their tech couldn’t answer me if the unit will still function without those wires being connected).

Looking at the second picture, here is my thought process/assumptions.

12v -> red, should be to any 12v constant power, this is what will keep the pump running once the motor is off.
Blue -> ACC, should be anything that has power when the key is in the ACC position but not when the key is removed. My assumption here is that this is how the unit knows that you’ve turned the motor off and how to start the countdown timer to kill power to the pump.
Green -> to pump?
Black -> ground

I have zero experience with Greddy brand turbo timer, but a couple I have done definitely required the park/neutral wire to function. I assume it has a built in fail safe so you don't turn the key off in drive and it keep the engine running.

 

[Myrunr2010]

I have zero experience with Greddy brand turbo timer, but a couple I have done definitely required the park/neutral wire to function. I assume it has a built in fail safe so you don't turn the key off in drive and it keep the engine running.

That should be easy enough to tap in to, should just be able to tap in to the switch for the e-brake (I assume).

Any reason for the speed one that you can see?

 

[Bad Luck]

That should be easy enough to tap in to, should just be able to tap in to the switch for the e-brake (I assume).

Any reason for the speed one that you can see?

The ones I dealt with were only a park/neutral signal. Do they want a park/neutral signal AND a speed signal, or is it a one or the other kind of thing?

 

[phattyduck]

keep the pump running once the motor is off.

Good idea to keep the scavenge pump on for a while after the motor is off.

I like having the parking wire hooked up. You'll probably want to set it to 30s or something and that's it. But you can always release and reset the parking brake to turn off the pump. You can leave the speedo connection open/disconnected with no problem - if connected it can display your speed digitally if you want...

I think you are going to want to use a relay to power the pump, with the coil triggered by both the ignition power and turbo timer output, but diode isolated.

I can't remember what triggers the turbo timer to start its countdown. I know for sure that my old-school HKS turbo timer starts its countdown even when I just switch to ACC mode.

You are probably going to want to do this process in stages. You know you need to hook up constant power, ground, etc. From there, you can experiment what it does with power applied to various wires...

-Charlie

 

[Myrunr2010]

The ones I dealt with were only a park/neutral signal. Do they want a park/neutral signal AND a speed signal, or is it a one or the other kind of thing?

It has two wires. When I was reading through the manual for it, you can apparently set it to alarm if you’re above certain speeds and stuff

 

[Myrunr2010]

I can't remember what triggers the turbo timer to start its countdown. I know for sure that my old-school HKS turbo timer starts its countdown even when I just switch to ACC mode.

You are probably going to want to do this process in stages. You know you need to hook up constant power, ground, etc. From there, you can experiment what it does with power applied to various wires...

-Charlie

It would make sense for it to use the ACC as a trigger. I’m assuming that I can hook that wire up to anything that doesn’t have constant power but does when the key is in ACC (I.e. cigarette lighter).

I’m think you’re probably right, just hoping to narrow down the amount of experimenting/frustration of connecting and disconnecting wires.