txbonds 97 4runner limited project

[txbonds]

It really sucks to pay $160 for a specialized tool like the durasolid tool and then have it not be machined properly so it doesn't fit. That said, I'm into the project and don't have time to try to get them to do anything about it just yet.

So I've had to improvise a way to press parts on since the durasolid tube won't fit far enough down the axle since the inside diameter isn't quite large enough.

So, here is the first improvised press tool to get the bearing and first retainer on

Pressed on and ready for snap ring

Snap ring in place and ready for the ABS ring and last retainer ring to be pressed on

 

[txbonds]

Everything pressed in and ready to go. Now onto installing the new seal and O'Ring on the truck axle tube.

Ready to press ABS Exciter Ring and Inner Retaining Ring on. Notice Inner Retaining Ring is backwards from how I took it off. This is based on other write ups I read that indicate it seals better with the newer style seals Toyota uses now.

The new parts pressed back onto axle and ready for install.

Hopefully all the pictures I post help others along the way doing the same repair work.

 

[txbonds]

New seal driven into place. Used a harbor freight seal driver kit.

New O'Ring in place on outside of axle tube

Its ready for the axle to go back in at this point. Then reconnect brake line and move to the drivers side.

 

[sschaefer3]

You pressed the hub with the lug nuts down, I usually press the retainer down the shaft, the opposite way because in the past I have smashed that outer seal on the hub/with lugs.


So I use a tube and push the collar down the shaft not the hub down to the collar, does it spin OK?

 

[txbonds]

You pressed the hub with the lug nuts down, I usually press the retainer down the shaft, the opposite way because in the past I have smashed that outer seal on the hub/with lugs.


So I use a tube and push the collar down the shaft not the hub down to the collar, does it spin OK?

Yeah, seems to spin fine. I didn't really have any other way I could do it easily but it guess I could have used the pipe with the blue tool to create some way to press it that way but would have to get creative again.

Are you talking about that rubber dust shield that fits to the back side of the bearing housing?

 

[sschaefer3]

You know what putter seal I am talking about? The one between the bearing and the end of the axle shaft.

 

[txbonds]

You know what putter seal I am talking about? The one between the bearing and the end of the axle shaft.

Okay, in that case mine turned out fine. I put a new one on before pressing it all together. Had to press it into the bearing housing with my fingers and it fit into the back side of the hub/axle when it was pressed together.

 

[txbonds]

You know what putter seal I am talking about? The one between the bearing and the end of the axle shaft.

You're talking about the one visible here right?

 

[sschaefer3]

Yep that's what I'm talking about.

 

[jmildoc]

Man I really enjoy your build thread, wish I had time on my hands like you do. LOL

 

[txbonds]

Man I really enjoy your build thread, wish I had time on my hands like you do. LOL

Thanks man.


received this kit that I ordered yesterday to help with the brake shoe job. It's not Snap-On but it appears to be decent quality compared to the OEM China made stuff at the local auto parts stores.

 

[txbonds]

Since last post and after a long labor day weekend break I've gotten the passenger side buttoned back up with new shoes installed and have pulled the drivers side axle.

I'm in the middle of pressing the parts off of the axle and wanted to point something obvious out. DONT FORGET to remove the snap ring before pressing the bearing and retainer off. :biggrin1: :biggrin1: :biggrin1:

I've been fighting my press for the last hour trying to figure out why the bearing was being so stubborn before I just realized I didn't take the snap ring off. DOH

 

[txbonds]

As an FYI to anyone reading this and wondering how to get the proper 96 ft lbs of torque onto the lower control arms cam bolts on the 3rd gen 4 runners, I can attest that this item works. I've been looking for something that allows me to get proper torque on the rear bolts as there isn't any clearance due to the steering rack and a crowfoot for me just slipped off.

Anyway, I was able to get the proper torque without any slippage or bolt head damage using this. Hope it helps someone else. Just make sure to use the proper conversion for the adapter depending on whether you use it straight or at 90 degrees.

 

[sharpe97]

Just read this entire build from the start, and I would just like to say this is hands down one of the best builds I've ever read, IMO. I wish I had the time and money to do what you've done with this. One of my favorite runners I've ever seen. Kudos man. Keep up the good work! :thumb:



Oh, and from reading this, it made me realize how badly I want a desert tan paintjob. Haha. :biggrin2:

 

[txbonds]

Just read this entire build from the start, and I would just like to say this is hands down one of the best builds I've ever read, IMO. I wish I had the time and money to do what you've done with this. One of my favorite runners I've ever seen. Kudos man. Keep up the good work! :thumb:



Oh, and from reading this, it made me realize how badly I want a desert tan paintjob. Haha. :biggrin2:

Thank you. Very kind words.

 

[txbonds]

4 wheels on the ground

UPDATE: No pictures but the drivers side rear axle is done and reinstalled with new bearings and seals. Now I just need to bleed the brakes and adjust the shoes and it's ready to go again. Then it's back to interior work once more.

 

[txbonds]

Following U-Tube and the many various instruction write-ups on the internet I got my brake fluid bled and flushed using the Motive universal pressure bleeder setup

Started with the passenger rear, then drivers rear, then passenger front and finally drivers front.

Shop supposedly replaced all the fluid last year when I got this but after initial bleeding, the fluid was dark and dirty

But after letting fluid flow through for a while on each corner, I began to get good clean fluid with no bubbles

Now I need to get the rear jacked up again and adjust the rear shoes and then its on to draining and topping the rear diff, changing the oil and then go drive it to make sure everything sealed up properly.

 

[txbonds]

Just finished flushing and refilling the rear diff with some synthetic lucas 75w-90 and drained and refilled the engine with Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic 10w-30 and a mobil 1 filter.

Not pleased to find that the Nissan dealer I had do my initial service last year when I bought the truck didn't use a toyota washer on the drain plug and didn't tighten the oil filter as it was loose when I took it off by hand. Also they torqued the rear diff plugs way beyond spec as I had a hard time getting them off and had to use the impact driver.

Will stop for the night but tomorrow I'm back at it with adjusting the rear shoes and then double checking the brake peddle to see if I got all the air out of the lines.

Anyway, thought I'd post some pictures from tonight just for the heck of it.

 

[txbonds]

This is after about 10 miles of driving it. As best I can tell its still dry in there. I not only felt and wiped the abs sensor and hole, but also used a qtip with some needle nose pliers to swab the bottom of the axle tube. Not saying it won't leak but I think its holding so far. Will check it again after some more driving and then again after a week or two. I'm hoping it holds as it would be a pain in the arse to have to pull it and do it again.

Drivers Side

Passenger Side

 

[JWaldz]

What a filthy shop.. Can't see how anyone could ever get any work done out of it! YUCK!!





:llama: