Tyler James Inc's Ultimate '01 SR5

[pavelvoivoda]

I'm going to be looking into doing the FJ radio swap then. I love the look of that. Thanks! Any clue what year?

Here is a part number. 86120-35382 Look it up on ebay. Prices vary but you could get a working one for 100 bucks or less. Mine is painted black, so you have to do this part yourself.

Just pull out the knobs off and unscrew the front bezels. Keep in mind that the bezels are held also in place by super strong sticky tape to the main panel. When you decide to pull them off, do it slowly so you dont break them.

When you paint them, use really fine sand paper to sand them a bit everywhere so the paint can stick better to the plastic. I used mat spray paint.

Hope this helps

 

[Team_Jake]

Tyler, I'm going to be swapping a 5-speed in my '99 limited soon, and I have a few questions about the details if you don't mind answering.

1. When routing the master cylinder hydraulic hard line, there is a bracket that extends from the body of manual 4Runners that holds the connection point between the hard line / soft line (if the hard line is followed down in the picture, there should be a bracket there).

My auto does not have this bracket (I don't believe any auto's came with this bracket). When you did your swap, did you install a bracket there?

2. I plan to keep my multi-mode (I have the '99/'00 style multi-mode). I've done my research on how to wire up everything (which is a little difficult because I cannot find anyone who done this swap with the '99/'00 style multi-mode, only you and [MENTION=133074]anniesball72[/MENTION] but both of you are the '01/'02 style multi-mode).
It seems that there are no special steps in the wiring to keep the multi-mode transfer case (since the multi-mode transfer case has it's own ECU, just make sure the clutch release switch is wired the way it should be). Did you find this to be the case, or is there something I'm missing?

3. How did you end up holding the interior trim together, did you cut the brackets off the auto shift lever or just not mess with it?

4. Did you put a spacer between your rear driveshaft and your diff? (I know my auto is 1.25" longer than the R150F, but I've read somewhere that the '01/'02 autos are a different length than earlier autos, not sure if that is right). I'm trying to figure out if the spacer is really necessary since there is a bit more travel in the slip yoke.

Thank you!

 

[anniesball72]

Tyler, I'm going to be swapping a 5-speed in my '99 limited soon, and I have a few questions about the details if you don't mind answering.

1. When routing the master cylinder hydraulic hard line, there is a bracket that extends from the body of manual 4Runners that holds the connection point between the hard line / soft line (if the hard line is followed down in the picture, there should be a bracket there).

My auto does not have this bracket (I don't believe any auto's came with this bracket). When you did your swap, did you install a bracket there?

2. I plan to keep my multi-mode (I have the '99/'00 style multi-mode). I've done my research on how to wire up everything (which is a little difficult because I cannot find anyone who done this swap with the '99/'00 style multi-mode, only you and [MENTION=133074]anniesball72[/MENTION] but both of you are the '01/'02 style multi-mode).
It seems that there are no special steps in the wiring to keep the multi-mode transfer case (since the multi-mode transfer case has it's own ECU, just make sure the clutch release switch is wired the way it should be). Did you find this to be the case, or is there something I'm missing?

3. How did you end up holding the interior trim together, did you cut the brackets off the auto shift lever or just not mess with it?

4. Did you put a spacer between your rear driveshaft and your diff? (I know my auto is 1.25" longer than the R150F, but I've read somewhere that the '01/'02 autos are a different length than earlier autos, not sure if that is right). I'm trying to figure out if the spacer is really necessary since there is a bit more travel in the slip yoke.

Thank you!

1) I'm not sure by the photo what bracket you are referring to. I purchased all the bolt on brackets for the hard line.

2) You do not have to alter the Multi-mode or 4Wd wiring at all. I cheated and did not swap my harness. I just jumpered the auto plug neutral and park to get it to start. I do not have the clutch cancel button wired but I did wire the cruise control back in.

3) I replaced that bracket with the manual version 58280-35160.

4) I ended up having to shorten my front driveshaft about 1-1/2" Other than that mine was totally bolt in.

 

[Team_Jake]

1) I'm not sure by the photo what bracket you are referring to. I purchased all the bolt on brackets for the hard line.

2) You do not have to alter the Multi-mode or 4Wd wiring at all. I cheated and did not swap my harness. I just jumpered the auto plug neutral and park to get it to start. I do not have the clutch cancel button wired but I did wire the cruise control back in.

3) I replaced that bracket with the manual version 58280-35160.

4) I ended up having to shorten my front driveshaft about 1-1/2" Other than that mine was totally bolt in.

Thanks for the response [MENTION=133074]anniesball72[/MENTION]!!

1. This is the bracket I'm referring to:

2. Awesome! Good to know.

3. Yeah I have that part, I'm talking about the trim pieces. It appears the auto lever assembly has a couple brackets that expend off the end and those hold the trim pieces together, and how those trim pieces were held together after the swap? EDIT: I think I found the part number I am looking for, 58991-35030, but I need to confirm.

4. Okay so you did not do anything to your rear driveshaft at all then, great. Yeah I'm planning to shorten my front driveshaft.

Since yours is a California 4Runner you should have the same exhaust as mine. Did you have to remove yours at anytime during the swap? (The FSM says to remove the exhaust to remove the transmission, I'm hoping I can get away without touching the exhaust.)

 

[anniesball72]

Thanks for the response [MENTION=133074]anniesball72[/MENTION]!!

1. This is the bracket I'm referring to:

i see, I’ll have to crawl under and take a look, I can’t remember.

2. Awesome! Good to know.

3. Yeah I have that part, I'm talking about the trim pieces. It appears the auto lever assembly has a couple brackets that expend off the end and those hold the trim pieces together, and how those trim pieces were held together after the swap? EDIT: I think I found the part number I am looking for, 58991-35030, but I need to confirm.yes you are correct that is it!

4. Okay so you did not do anything to your rear driveshaft at all then, great. Yeah I'm planning to shorten my front driveshaft.

Since yours is a California 4Runner you should have the same exhaust as mine. Did you have to remove yours at anytime during the swap? (The FSM says to remove the exhaust to remove the transmission, I'm hoping I can get away without touching the exhaust.)

i had mine removed since I had another wide band sensor added for my supercharger. I don’t know if it’s required. I’ll ask my friend.

What clutch are you going with?

Edit, also the big trick is going to be getting the right ECM from a M/T Tacoma to clear your check engine if you are in CA.

 

[Team_Jake]

i had mine removed since I had another wide band sensor added for my supercharger. I don’t know if it’s required. I’ll ask my friend.

What clutch are you going with?

Edit, also the big trick is going to be getting the right ECM from a M/T Tacoma to clear your check engine if you are in CA.

Yeah it’d be nice to not need to remove the exhaust, I’ve never touched mine so I know removing some of those bolts are going to be tough.

I’ll be installing the Marlin Crawler HD clutch kit.

Yeah I have the ‘99 M/T 5VZ 4x4 California Spec ECU, it has the same exact pinout as the Auto ECU so it’s plug and play.

 

[Speedy]

What a great build thread, I've spent the last couple mornings reading through it while having coffee. [MENTION=116470]Tyler James Inc[/MENTION] you do the kind of work I shoot for. Doing it right and as the factory would (or should) have done it.

I had been looking for some projects for my supercharged 2002 4WD 4Runner and have been reading up on a 5spd manual swap. My "thought" was that it would give a bit more sporty driving experience, but reading up on yours it sounded like you felt the auto actually had more zip? That's surprising.

I've had two 3.4L Tacomas over the years (a 1997 and a 2000 TRD) that were manual trans, but it's been so long I've forgotten what they were like compared to the auto in the 4Runner.

I shot you a PM with some questions, but wanted to comment on your thread as well. Nice work.

If the 5spd swap isn't more zippy than the auto or if it can't be completed and have everything 100% work as factory (abs, vsc, 4wd, no dash lights on that should be off or off that should be on) I'd have to pass and look for another project. Thoughts?

 

[Tyler James Inc]

That’s incredibly kind of you to say, [MENTION=8729]Speedy[/MENTION]. Thanks so much for the compliments.

At first, I did feel like the auto was more zippy. I think the way the TQ magic works, it gives it a more zip. I actually really liked the auto.

That being said, I love shifting. After being used to the manual, I now feel like it’s very zippy and fun to drive. I’m on “37’s” now with 4.10 gearing, and- although I do plan on going to 5.29 gears- it still gets up and goes just fine. I say it all the time, but I really do drive my 4Runner pretty hard. I’m not trying to claim it’s some kind of race car that I’m beating ‘Vettes with, but it’s really not a dog(to me).

You gotta learn to wrap the engine RPM up more with the manual. I’m used to manual cars that have good torque down low- the 3.4l does not. When I first did the swap, I was driving it like my manual cars, and that’s why it seemed doggy. Surprisingly, I still get 14-15MPG on the 37” KO2s, and I think that’s damn good for how I drive. I think it runs more efficiently at higher RPMs, because I’ve tried “babying” it to get better MPG, and it’s never improved my results.

As far as the manual swap in an 01/02- I will reply to your PM, but I do not currently know of a solution to do the swap without losing ABS and traction control.

I didn’t have a CEL on before I swapped the Ford tank in, so I passed Oregon emission testing without issue. That being said, I’m not quite sure why. I believe ‘03/04 Tacos have ABS, so I would think that the ECU would be looking for the ABS, and see it missing- causing a code/CEL. I know that Tacoma’s didn’t have the traction control stuff, so you wouldn’t be able to retain the functionality of that. I took the bulbs out of my cluster that were associated with VSC. It’s been so long since I’ve been balls deep into this, so I’m a little fuzzy on the ins and outs of the whole ABS thing. I have no ABS, but I’m not 100% certain you couldn’t make your ABS functional with some wiring creativity and Tacoma ABS parts.

For some reason, I seem to remember something about not being able to make the Tacoma ABS work though.

Maybe I’m remembering wrong- maybe Tacomas didn’t have ABS at all.

 

[Speedy]

Thanks for the insight. You're getting to be like me with the upgrades/changes. I've been doing them over the years and have literally forgotten how/what I did on some of them it's been so long.

Thanks for the insight. Bummer on traction control. With the SC/Meth setup it's saved my butt a few times on slick streets when I'm driving like I shouldn't have been for the conditions.

 

[R Marra]

Wait ,What 37's did i miss something???

 

[Coward]

"You gotta learn to wrap the engine RPM up more with the manual. I’m used to manual cars that have good torque down low- the 3.4l does not. When I first did the swap, I was driving it like my manual cars, and that’s why it seemed doggy. Surprisingly, I still get 14-15MPG on the 37” KO2s, and I think that’s damn good for how I drive. I think it runs more efficiently at higher RPMs, because I’ve tried “babying” it to get better MPG, and it’s never improved my results."

This. I would say I'm equally as hard on my (non-SC) manual and I have never thought it was a dog. And I agree you need the revs to use the power. Without looking I can say all the power is above 3,000. I get 17.5+ MPG every time. (33" MT's)

 

[nateboor]

Clutch Start SW-
Black goes to the Black in pos 3 of connector II1 behind the 2001 glovebox.
Black/White goes to the Black/White in pos 9 of II1

Clutch Start Cancel SW(pic above)-
Yellow/Green will splice in with my "Black" above.
Green will splice in with my "Black/White" above.
White/Black will go to ground.
Black/Red will need fused +12v from 10a "Gauge"

Cruise Cancel SW @ Pedal(pic above)-
Black/Yellow to Black/Yellow in pos 20 of II4 behind the 2001 glovebox.
White/Red to White/Red in pos 10 of II1 mentioned above.

Trying to piece this together on my 2001 5spd swapped 4runner too. If you still see this... can you please clarify the following?

1. Clutch Start SW disallows the vehicle from starting unless the clutch is depressed - correct?

2. Clutch Start Cancel: I will splice yellow/green into the same connector II1 as the clutch start SW; and the same for green into black/white at position 9 of II1.

3. Regarding Cruise Cancel SW: Do you meant that I am to splice in my black/yellow wire from my pedal into the black/yellow at pos 20 of II4? And to splice in the white/red? That sounds like what you mean, just want to be sure.

Can't express how much I appreciate your detailed research and documentation of this job!