UBJ boot break IMMEDIATELY after lift. My fault or shops fault?

[4BUMR]

I've been giddy all week because I finally got my 5100's / FJ springs on, along with Whitelines bushings on steering rack and LCA's. All of this was done on Tuesday, and it's now 3 days later.

When I walked out to measure hub to fender this morning I noticed something troubling.

On the front passenger side my UCA seems to have been wailed on by a hammer, and my UBJ boot is shot and leaking grease.

I haven't contacted the shop that performed the install yet because I want to figure out if I'm at fault or if they are. Could my mild lift have caused the boot to rip, or would you suspect that this was a shop error that they didn't plan on informing me of? Could it have been there before the lift?

For what it's worth, hub to fender measurements (front shocks on 2nd perch)
FL: 21 3/4"
FR: 22 3/4 "
RL: 21"
RR: 21 3/4"



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I've been giddy all week because I finally got my 5100's / FJ springs on, along with Whitelines bushings on steering rack and LCA's. All of this was done on Tuesday, and it's now 3 days later.

When I walked out to measure hub to fender this morning I noticed something troubling.

On the front passenger side my UCA seems to have been wailed on by a hammer, and my UBJ boot is shot and leaking grease.

I haven't contacted the shop that performed the install yet because I want to figure out if I'm at fault or if they are. Could my mild lift have caused the boot to rip, or would you suspect that this was a shop error that they didn't plan on informing me of? Could it have been there before the lift?

For what it's worth, hub to fender measurements (front shocks on 2nd perch)
FL: 21 3/4"
FR: 22 3/4 "
RL: 21"
RR: 21 3/4"



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very tough to say. Chances are the boot was damaged during the repair but since the UBJ is old there's really nothing you can prove.

 

[meRockboost]

90% not the shops fault. You gotta pay to play. Wait till more crap starts breaking, like your cv boots

 

[4BUMR]

[MENTION=107674]JRZEE2000TR4LTD[/MENTION]

So if this is the case, do I need to replace immediately? How long does she have to live doc?!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mtbtim]

Not trying to be a dick but your first mistake was letting a shop do this for you. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] also has a UCA with similar damage because the gorilla who did the job didn't use a puller to break the upper balljoint free of the UCA. This is what can happen when people use the "Hammer" technique to break free these types of connections. Pullers work every time and do no damage. Why people use this archaic hammer technique puzzles me.

There's no way you can prove they caused the boot to rip but you can definitely call them out on the damage to your UCA. If it were my truck, I'd make them buy me some new UCAs. There's no reason why your UCA should be mashed up like that. That's just poor work.

On a happier note, you can buy just the replacement boots for the upper balljoints. [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] has bought them for his rig so I know they exist. The kit comes with the rubber boots, grease and the wires you use to secure them in place. Break the balljoint free of the UCA with a PULLER, cut the wire that secures the boot to the balljoint, install the new boot with some fresh grease and secure it with the new wire. You can rent pullers for free at most auto parts stores. If it were me, I wouldn't bring my rig back to that shop unless you are going to force them to replace your UCAs due to the damage they caused.

I'd replace the boots as soon as possible. Dirt, grit and other road debris will get in there and can cause damage to the joint. The sooner you do this the better.

 

[4BUMR]

Not trying to be a dick but your first mistake was letting a shop do this for you. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] also has a UCA with similar damage because the gorilla who did the job didn't use a puller to break the upper balljoint free of the UCA. This is what can happen when people use the "Hammer" technique to break free these types of connections. Pullers work every time and do no damage. Why people use this archaic hammer technique puzzles me.

There's no way you can prove they caused the boot to rip but you can definitely call them out on the damage to your UCA. If it were my truck, I'd make them buy me some new UCAs. There's no reason why your UCA should be mashed up like that. That's just poor work.

On a happier note, you can buy just the replacement boots for the upper balljoints. [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] has bought them for his rig so I know they exist. The kit comes with the rubber boots, grease and the wires you use to secure them in place. Break the balljoint free of the UCA with a PULLER, cut the wire that secures the boot to the balljoint, install the new boot with some fresh grease and secure it with the new wire. You can rent pullers for free at most auto parts stores. If it were me, I wouldn't bring my rig back to that shop unless you are going to force them to replace your UCAs due to the damage they caused.

I'd replace the boots as soon as possible. Dirt, grit and other road debris will get in there and can cause damage to the joint. The sooner you do this the better.

Thanks Tim! I would have never had a shop do it but I'm in Florida without a garage, working outside kicks my ass too much of the time and I couldn't find time to do everything. With the right setup and a few more hours in the day I would absolutely have done this myself.

Do you or [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] have a link to said boot kit? In case I can't get the UCA's from the shop..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mtbtim]

Thanks Tim! I would have never had a shop do it but I'm in Florida without a garage, working outside kicks my ass too much of the time and I couldn't find time to do everything. With the right setup and a few more hours in the day I would absolutely have done this myself.

Do you or [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] have a link to said boot kit? In case I can't get the UCA's from the shop..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If Jordan doesn't chime in some time today with the link, I'll text him and find out where he purchased the kit.

 

[octanejunkie]

That grease looks fresh, not dusty, and if the shop had really big balls they would have told you you had a torn boot and quoted you on the repair after pumping it full of their grease to flush the old grease out. Chances are the tech that pinched the boot didn't know they did it or didn't say anything.

I would take it back and see what they say.

 

[Kanoe]

I agree with all the above, especially the stuff about not trusting others to work on the truck.

It really doesn't look like that upper ball joint nut was removed. That looks like old rust, not disturbed. And based on the work the OP listed, there really was no need to separate the uppers anyway was there?

So the question to be asked is why were they hitting the UCA with a hammer at all?

The split in the boot may very well have just been from the change in angle of the joint and dry old rubber. A couple inch lift makes quite a difference in how the joint sits. It is cracked on the newly stretched side.

Regardless, I would be pissed that they took a hammer to it at all.

 

[v_man]

To be honest a BFH is the appropriate tool in many situations. I bet half the axle, tie rod, ball joint, rotor how-to write ups on the internet involve using a BFH. Sometimes it works and sometimes you end up smashing your shit...

 

[JZiggy]

I think this was the part number for the upper ball joint boot kit. 43324-39015

 

[UnderFire]

To be honest a BFH is the appropriate tool in many situations. I bet half the axle, tie rod, ball joint, rotor how-to write ups on the internet involve using a BFH. Sometimes it works and sometimes you end up smashing your shit...

Works every time, and smashes shit every time. BFH is my tool of choice.

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

 

[4BUMR]

Conclusion

At the end of the day, I am still upset at how they handled it, so I sent a note to the owner and he was quick to reply and offer a replacement of the UCA that was beat on and the UBJ. I told him that the Balljoint is fine, and to just replace the UCA and the dust boot while he's in there.

I'd be fine with the BFH method, if it were me doing the work. If i'm paying for a shop to do professional work however, I won't accept that as a solution.

This shop (Southern Off-Road & Tire in Fort Myers, FL) has been easy enough to work with and receptive to fixing their mistakes so they will continue to get my business when it's called for. Have some tires on the way and I'll happily let them mount/balance them.

 

[JayRolla]

At the end of the day, I am still upset at how they handled it, so I sent a note to the owner and he was quick to reply and offer a replacement of the UCA that was beat on and the UBJ. I told him that the Balljoint is fine, and to just replace the UCA and the dust boot while he's in there.

I'd be fine with the BFH method, if it were me doing the work. If i'm paying for a shop to do professional work however, I won't accept that as a solution.

This shop (Southern Off-Road & Tire in Fort Myers, FL) has been easy enough to work with and receptive to fixing their mistakes so they will continue to get my business when it's called for. Have some tires on the way and I'll happily let them mount/balance them.

Just to mention it I replaced both uppers with OEM ball joints after I lifted. Few weeks later they had split boots. The harsh angle from the lift will kill the boots. Only remedy is after market ucas to eliminate the angle. One also loosened up and failed from the harsh angle and wheeling.

 

[4BUMR]

UPDATE:

Shop replaced UCA and UBJ on the side they whaled on. Had them make some other minor adjustments and am now sitting pretty!

 

[nevada]

Not trying to be a dick but your first mistake was letting a shop do this for you. @infamousRNR also has a UCA with similar damage because the gorilla who did the job didn't use a puller to break the upper balljoint free of the UCA. This is what can happen when people use the "Hammer" technique to break free these types of connections. Pullers work every time and do no damage. Why people use this archaic hammer technique puzzles me.

There's no way you can prove they caused the boot to rip but you can definitely call them out on the damage to your UCA. If it were my truck, I'd make them buy me some new UCAs. There's no reason why your UCA should be mashed up like that. That's just poor work.

On a happier note, you can buy just the replacement boots for the upper balljoints. @JZiggy has bought them for his rig so I know they exist. The kit comes with the rubber boots, grease and the wires you use to secure them in place. Break the balljoint free of the UCA with a PULLER, cut the wire that secures the boot to the balljoint, install the new boot with some fresh grease and secure it with the new wire. You can rent pullers for free at most auto parts stores. If it were me, I wouldn't bring my rig back to that shop unless you are going to force them to replace your UCAs due to the damage they caused.

I'd replace the boots as soon as possible. Dirt, grit and other road debris will get in there and can cause damage to the joint. The sooner you do this the better.

because its a hell of a lot faster, and works perfectly, without damaging anything most of the time.

also, there are a LOT of times, where a hammer is the only solution that can actually get the job done. it is what it is.

 

[mtbtim]

because its a hell of a lot faster, and works perfectly, without damaging anything most of the time.

also, there are a LOT of times, where a hammer is the only solution that can actually get the job done. it is what it is.

Sorry buddy, but I don't agree with you. A LOT of times Pullers are the only solution. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and the OP's UCAs are clear examples that the hammer technique damages components sometimes while pullers get the job done every time with no damage. I have used pullers with a 100% success rate so far and I've done a fair amount of front end work on these rigs. I tried the hammer technique one time at a Pick and Pull when I didn't have my pullers with me and it failed to break the outer tie rod free. The argument that the hammer technique is quicker is not that solid of an argument. I can get a puller in place pretty damn quick so you're talking a savings of maybe one minute.

 

[mtbtim]

UPDATE:

Shop replaced UCA and UBJ on the side they whaled on. Had them make some other minor adjustments and am now sitting pretty!

Good to hear. I'm glad you went back to shop and forced them to make it right. What sucks is they've probably done the same shit quality work to other people's vehicles and they got away with it because the owner didn't notice the damage. If a shop turns over a vehicle to an owner after knowingly causing damage and says nothing about it to the customer, that's not an honest shop. I realize the UCA would continue to function properly with that damage, but it's just not quality work in my opinion.

 

[nevada]

Sorry buddy, but I don't agree with you. A LOT of times Pullers are the only solution. @infamousRNR and the OP's UCAs are clear examples that the hammer technique damages components sometimes while pullers get the job done every time with no damage. I have used pullers with a 100% success rate so far and I've done a fair amount of front end work on these rigs. I tried the hammer technique one time at a Pick and Pull when I didn't have my pullers with me and it failed to break the outer tie rod free. The argument that the hammer technique is quicker is not that solid of an argument. I can get a puller in place pretty damn quick so you're talking a savings of maybe one minute.

you not agreeing doesn't make me wrong. it IS faster.

what damage did a hammer do to the OP's UCA? a couple dent marks? because a hammer didn't damage that boot.

so your ONE time(likely incorrect because it failed) use of a hammer is some sort of evidence that it doesn't work?

 

[nevada]

im genuinely curious you would use a puller to release this ball joint?

to clarify, this is not my picture, and my question is specifically in reference to the LOWER. however, understand, you cant use a puller on the upper, until the lower is broke free, or you will damage it.