UCA Bolt

RaginTxn84

New member
Just took in my runner to get it aligned, guy said there was left and right play in the UCA from the long bolt - anyone else have this bolt wear out like this? Haven't broken it down to see, but I'm headed to the Toyota dealer and will probably just replace the part.

Anyways - just wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue and what you did to fix it.

I have SPC UCAs - I'm wondering if it was one of the sleeves that have worn?
 
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I was talking to a couple of other the Heart of Texas off road club members (look us up on facebook) in Austin a few weeks ago. They say that the bolt is a week point due to the weak grade of metal/alloy that they are made of. They said that they have had them break on the trail, and that when they are at the junk yards they pick up as many as they can get their hands on.

They are working on a source for a better steal version that isn't BOHICA priced.
 
how many bushing washers do you need to know the version? i just got a set and i wanna know b4 i put them on if i should get the newer bushing if mine aren't the newer revised ones
 
how many bushing washers do you need to know the version? i just got a set and i wanna know b4 i put them on if i should get the newer bushing if mine aren't the newer revised ones
2 washers per side are some of the newer revisions, not sure how many there are now. The older, most problematic ones had 4 washers per side.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/151942-official-spc-light-racing-product-update.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/168142-another-light-racing-bushing-update.html
 
I actually have thought about buying two extra for trail spares. My problem is I had the nut start to come lose on one side. Luckily I caught it before it fell off. Which actually solved one of my clunking problems.
 
I actually have thought about buying two extra for trail spares. My problem is I had the nut start to come lose on one side. Luckily I caught it before it fell off. Which actually solved one of my clunking problems.

Easy fix for the nut coming loose is put a second one on each bolt to lock it in place because they do want to come loose with their constant movement. Tighten first one to torque then put on second one while your holding the first with an open end wrench and snug the second one up to it to lock it in place. The Use of Two Nuts to Prevent Self Loosening of Fasteners
or you could just find self locking nuts.

I had to do that on mine as I think the factory 87ft/lbs torque is too much for my TC polyurethane bushings and was eating them up. The 87ft/lbs is the oem torque however the oem bushings are hard rubber and not poly.

On the third set of bushings I just snugged it up pretty tight to take out the play and double nutted it so it couldn't back off. I learned to back the nuts off some on my TC's when I grease them through the zerk fittings so it doesn't deform the bushings and allows the old grease to flow through and then retighten/relock them.

The long bolts brand new are less then $10 and nuts are like $2+ so not sure why anybody would look for used ones in junk yards and go through the hassle of taking them off. 2012 Toyota 4Runner Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping
 
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A quick and handy tip to lock nuts in place...use some 5-7lb test fishing line. Just wrap it around the threads of the bolts, then tighten the nut over the threads. Snip the excess fishing line. It's the poor-mans Nylock nut and works very well.
 
Nothing wrong with the bolt, its your UCAs. Which bushing version do you have (how many washers)?
Two washers per side. I remember reading about that with the SPC UCAs - glad to know that it seems that I have the new version of bushings.

I'll get under there either tonight or tomorrow and check the tightness of the bolt - I'm guessing that since I haven't taken the 4R off road yet.

Also, guy at the shop said that the movement in the UCA is causing the rubbing when I go into reverse - he said he didn't experience any rubbing during the test drive until he put it in reverse, heard the clunk, and it is only on the driver's side.

Thanks again for the advice - I'll be sure to update about the tightness of the but on the UCA. Would threadlocker do the same as the double nut?
 
Oh, I guess I misread your post.

I don't know, I have Icon tube UCA's so I don't know what the OEM answer is.

Sorry
You read right - the guy at the shop asked if I had torqued the bolts - I said yes. He said if it's not the bolts being loose, then it would be the bolt either being worn or broken.

After reading about the torque issue with the poly bushigs vs he hard plastic ones, I'm guess that - we'll see [emoji55]
 
b2b472d3d21477573395eb6a7cf47bb9.jpg


So this is what I did last night - put just a slight bit of locker on the first but, and then added the second. Didn't have a second one for the other side - so I'll be getting that later this week, but did the locker on the other side.

A lot mentioned the torquing being a concern. I torques it to 65 + the locker so I figure it should be good. Should I go back to the 87 - opinions?

No more clunking going into reverse - still some decent rubbing in reverse, but on the BM, but only at full lock.

Anyways, thought I would post an update with a pic for others to have in the future.
 

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