UCA the dirt-cheap way

lehiguy

New member
SOOO... I have this grand idea that I can extend my stock UCAs with a chop saw and some decent welding. I know this sounds nuts, but I have fabbed/modded steering components before and have never had a failure. So the question is this; what is the dimentional difference between the stock and after-market UCAs? Does anybody possess this information?
 
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I think they are the same length (somebody correct me if I'm wrong), only they allow a much higher degree of adjustment. Unless you're talking about doing a ghetto long travel...in which case, I can't help you.
 
SOOO... I have this grand idea that I can extend my stock UCAs with a chop saw and some decent welding. I know this sounds nuts, but I have fabbed/modded steering components before and have never had a failure. So the question is this; what is the dimentional difference between the stock and after-market UCAs? Does anybody possess this information?
Its not nuts I've mentioned this on other sites as we do this on lowriders all the time. Cut , extend , reinforce, and mold, to a nice , strong a arm. Some are candied, engraved, commonly chromed or gold even.. but for this application paint would suffice.
 
Its not nuts I've mentioned this on other sites as we do this on lowriders all the time. Cut , extend , reinforce, and mold, to a nice , strong a arm. Some are candied, engraved, commonly chromed or gold even.. but for this application paint would suffice.

I just ventured out in the garage with a flashlight, this is a one-banana job as far as the welding goes. I just need to find out how much extra reach would be ideal.
 
SOOO... I have this grand idea that I can extend my stock UCAs with a chop saw and some decent welding. I know this sounds nuts, but I have fabbed/modded steering components before and have never had a failure. So the question is this; what is the dimentional difference between the stock and after-market UCAs? Does anybody possess this information?

I don't think the length is all that different... I think that it's more the angle/geometry and the adjustability.
 
I'm sure it would turn out okay, but I would like to point out that the Light Racing UCA seems much beefier than the stock one. Just holding one of each to compare, the stock one seems pathetic in comparison. Is this temporary until you get real UCAs or are you looking for a permanent solution to the misalignment?
 
I'm sure it would turn out okay, but I would like to point out that the Light Racing UCA seems much beefier than the stock one. Just holding one of each to compare, the stock one seems pathetic in comparison. Is this temporary until you get real UCAs or are you looking for a permanent solution to the misalignment?

There is obviously an increase in length between the frame pivot and the ball joint or there would be no difference in the degree of camber that is achievable with aftermarket UCAs. As far as stronger is concerned, that is nice, but is there a fatal flaw in the stockers? I have never heard of one bending or breaking unless it was wrecked. This is a Toyota we are talking about, not a Land Rover.
 
There is obviously an increase in length between the frame pivot and the ball joint or there would be no difference in the degree of camber that is achievable with aftermarket UCAs. As far as stronger is concerned, that is nice, but is there a fatal flaw in the stockers? I have never heard of one bending or breaking unless it was wrecked. This is a Toyota we are talking about, not a Land Rover.

There is no fatal flaw with the stock UCAs, but I can only say that about ones that haven't been cut into and welded. If you move forward with this, would you mind posting some pictures? I would like to see how it turns out.
 
I would just wait for a LR/Metaltech dicount here or a group buy on tacomaworld.com. I picked mine up for $375 shipped! Plus it has a warranty.
 
There is obviously an increase in length between the frame pivot and the ball joint or there would be no difference in the degree of camber that is achievable with aftermarket UCAs...

There is not much difference in that actual size of the arm, it's the adjustability of the ball joint location that changes. The shape of the BJ holder also greatly increases adjustability.

IMG_5622.JPG
via CDN_Bacon

As you can see the UCAs also allow more room for bigger coils (adjustable COs) inside the arm due to the tubing but it doesn't look any larger in terms of length.

edit - I just realized all the debate here has me on LR UCAs... I don't think anything I've said applies to the uniball UCAs like icon, tc, or ap.

double edit-
TC vs OEM
500px-Total_Chaos_UCA_install7.JPG

ToyotaWiki
 
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As far as I know, the point of all the aftermarket UCA's available for all the 4Runners are simply to replace the ball joint itself. The configuration and type of ball joint deployed on the light racing UCA pictured by gaterose is completely different than the stock unit.

The aftermarket UCAs have a stronger balljoint that has a much larger travel arc and isn't going to wear out in a few thousand km with a few inches of lift like the stock units tend to.

In principle, the stock unit gets too close to its limits of travel to function long-term under load when you lift the 4Runner. Thus, on a truck with alot of lift, the ball joint will wear out very quickly and/or break easily. The design of the joint gives it a 'sweet spot' where it wants to be while driving normally... lifting more than a couple inches brings it out of the sweet spot and into its extremes, where it wasn't intended to be loaded all the time.

Extending the length of the UCA any decent amount would then require you to do the same to the LCA, tie rods, etc... and now that's "long travel" territory. Get out your graphing calculator and suspension dynamics text books. Repositioning the upper ball joint would obviously effect your camber, toe, and possibly castor. (I'm sure you know that, but for those that don't, right).

I've not heard of anyone breaking the UCA without destroying most of the truck with it; people will always break the stock ball joint first.

Hope that helps.
 
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There is not much difference in that actual size of the arm, it's the adjustability of the ball joint location that changes. The shape of the BJ holder also greatly increases adjustability.

IMG_5622.JPG
via CDN_Bacon

As you can see the UCAs also allow more room for bigger coils (adjustable COs) inside the arm due to the tubing but it doesn't look any larger in terms of length.

edit - I just realized all the debate here has me on LR UCAs... I don't think anything I've said applies to the uniball UCAs like icon, tc, or ap.

double edit-
TC vs OEM
500px-Total_Chaos_UCA_install7.JPG

ToyotaWiki

The pics are great, thanks! The upper photo, the UCA with the udjustable ball joint position, definitely has the ability to adjust to a greater distance between the pivot axis and the ball joint. That would give the ability to keep camber and caster in line with greater lift amounts. The ball joint's range of motion is still in question. I was paying attention when I did the lift, I do not recall any binding at full drop. In the past, my work on mini trucks and Land Cruisers has confirmed that the stock hardware has greater range of motion and greater durability than most folks will give it credit for, but this merits further investigation.
 
im just sayin, different car genres have always used each others methods to better their own.. i build lowriders and have many friends who build $100k + cars with 300 lbs of reinforcements on the car. building extended and reinforced uppers and lowers to a lowrider is like putting on a simple spacer kit to these 4 runners, well prop not that simple, but you get my point, we use powerball ball joints which are virtually unbreakeable. if your welds are quality welds, the weld will be stronger than the metal itself. if you properly reinforce the uca, you will have no problem of it breaking. ive had my extended, reinforced , and molded uppers on my lowrider for 4 yrs no problems, and thats even with hopping a full sized gm car with an extra 600lbs 2-3 ft in the air when im feelin cocky lol.. we design these cars to withstand the abuse on the suspension. uca, ball joints , control arm ears and perches, as well as the cross members, front and rear frame arches, trail arms.. ive always wondered if 4x4s reinforce there frames to make em stronger and avoid twisting or bending the frame, cuz thats what we do in lowriding to avoid frame damage. anything can be done with metal and welding.
 
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I talked with the guy who aligned it for me after the lift was installed, he agrees with me, adding 1/2" to the UCAs should help get all the angles back in line.
 

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