Underdash Aux Fusebox

[4racer]

Im looking at add an in cab fuse box for gauges, switches, some other low amp stuff. Just looking to see if anyone else has done this or if they have any ideas. Im getting the power from the empty fuse panel on the drivers side. Putting a 15 amp fuse on that, want it to go to a fuse box/distribution box from there. Just looking for mounting ideas or where to put it.

 

[Konkordmusk]

So...you're gonna fuse a fusebox? Don't do that...fusing the fusebox with a 15a fuse means the total cumulative draw from any accessories added onto the fusebox cannot exceed 15a.

You'll want to pull direct power from the battery, so you would have to route at least a 8ga cable through the firewall to provide power to it. It is for this reason most people locate the fusebox inside the engine bay; keeps the battery cable nice and short.

 

[4racer]

So...you're gonna fuse a fusebox? Don't do that...fusing the fusebox with a 15a fuse means the total cumulative draw from any accessories added onto the fusebox cannot exceed 15a.

You'll want to pull direct power from the battery, so you would have to route at least a 8ga cable through the firewall to provide power to it. It is for this reason most people locate the fusebox inside the engine bay; keeps the battery cable nice and short.

I already have one under the engine bay for lights and other accessory that will be on the outside of the car. I need to draw power from inside the car for the switches that will be controlling relays, gauge power, and other small things. The cumulative draw on all of this stuff would maybe be 5 amps on a bad day. Also i want all of this stuff on switched power and not constant on. Im not adding all my switches at once. So I cant daisy chain them, nor do I want to have to cut the wire everytime to add a new switch. Looking for a cleaner way to wire extremely low amp stuff.

 

[Konkordmusk]

I already have one under the engine bay for lights and other accessory that will be on the outside of the car. I need to draw power from inside the car for the switches that will be controlling relays, gauge power, and other small things. The cumulative draw on all of this stuff would maybe be 5 amps on a bad day. Also i want all of this stuff on switched power and not constant on. Im not adding all my switches at once. So I cant daisy chain them, nor do I want to have to cut the wire everytime to add a new switch. Looking for a cleaner way to wire extremely low amp stuff.

Temp gauges are around 2 amps each, but an AFR can be up to 10 amps. I'm sure you're aware of that and the consequences of running it incorrectly.

Since you want these switched, maybe do one of them add-a-fuse connections on the proper fuse location to power the trigger pole of an 86/87 relay which then powers your fuse box. I would definitely still run a dedicated power wire from the battery to the relay, which would then feed the fuse box on-demand.

 

[4racer]

Temp gauges are around 2 amps each, but an AFR can be up to 10 amps. I'm sure you're aware of that and the consequences of running it incorrectly.

Since you want these switched, maybe do one of them add-a-fuse connections on the proper fuse location to power the trigger pole of an 86/87 relay which then powers your fuse box. I would definitely still run a dedicated power wire from the battery to the relay, which would then feed the fuse box on-demand.

I have one fuse box under the hood, directly connected to the battery with an 80 amp fuse. This fuse box feeds relays that control power to my lights, fan, compressor on the outside of the vehicle.

Now I need to wire 4 switches to trigger the relay and connect power for my temp gauge. The power needed to trigger the relay is less than an amp. The gauge per AEM consumes 1 amp. In total, if i triggered everything at once im at 5 amps. I have switches running to the drivers side and center console. I need to power these switches, instead of connecting them to a single connector and getting power off that. I would rather have a power distribution block that is fused under the dash to connect all of these two. So if I need to add an accessory I dont have a million wire taps.

Hopefully that clears it up.