Unner's Build, 2001 T4R 4x4

[Unner]

Got an impact gun or long breaker bar to take off the axle nut? The OEM nut is 35mm, aftermarkets are usually 36mm. I just reuse the OEM nut.

Just take care not to tear the outer seal in the diff housing, a la make sure the shaft goes in as straight as possible.

Spend an extra $10 to $15 for new LBJ bolts from the dealer.

I've got a 3 ft break bar that I think should work. I have access to an impact but I'm not sure it's strong enough to break the nut loose.

Can/should I pick up a couple extra axle seals just incase something goes wrong or is that uncommon?

I already got new LBJ bolts and new LBJ protectors from the dealer, but they ordered the wrong bolts so I have to go back this week return them and get the right ones. These are black bolts with washers and the ones I used when I replaced my LBJs were a silver color and had different grade markings on the bolt head.

 

[mmml4]

Not sure if you mentioned it but I would replace the seal in the steering knuckle for sure.

 

[Unner]

Not sure if you mentioned it but I would replace the seal in the steering knuckle for sure.

Alright, I'll look into that!

Where in Alabama are you at?

 

[mmml4]

Decatur

 

[Unner]

Ah, you're actually really close to me. I'm just down the road in Madison!

I've actually read through your build thread before, you've got some serious fab skills to build a rig like that!

 

[Unner]

I didn't get nearly as much done today as I wanted. I got my extended rear sway bar links installed today. They seem to work pretty well, it drives pretty much like stock now as far as body roll I think. I'm very impressed with the handling for a lifted truck. I didn't put any grease on the poly bushings, I'm not sure if it's needed or not to prevent squeaking. I'll keep an ear on it for the next couple days and see if I notice any squeaking.

I also got some paint on my bumpstops and can hopefully get them installed tomorrow evening. I retorqued all my rear control arms and I bent my rear brake line bracket a little more. The line is pretty much maxed out with both the rear wheels off the ground, but I think it will be OK. The only time it will be like that is when it's on a lift, which isn't often at all since I do all my own work.

I'll be done with finals this Tuesday so hopefully during the end of the week I can get everything else buttoned up with the lift like front bumpstops, front end links, and oil change. The spacers were delivered on Friday, but they're gonna wait until the CVs get changed if needed so I don't have to pull them after install.

I couldn't wait to flex it out a little so I went and did that today, I didn't want to max it out though and over compress a shock so I didn't get too crazy. Once I get those bumpstops in I'll go and see what all she's got.

Driver side extended link:
DSC02759 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02760 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
Passenger side:
DSC02761 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
My cheap washer solution instead of using the $10+ washers from Toyota...
DSC02762 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
Bad picture of bent bracket:
DSC02763 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
Bad picture of tight parking brake cable:
DSC02764 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
Little skid plates on LC rear shocks, I just think these are kinda cool:
DSC02765 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
Flexing:
DSC02766 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02767 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02769 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02773 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02777 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02778 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02779 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

 

[LittleCaesar]

Here is the part # for the bolts: #90080-10066. Some parts guys are good, others, well not so much.

A 36"breaker should work fine. If you have any pipe to slip over it for additional leverage, do such. If you continue to do DIY car work invest in a lithium 1/2" cordless impact (Dewalt, Milwaukee). It will do wonders for ya, similar to what that HF jack is able to achieve.

I wouldn't buy the seals; just make sure the end of the shaft is straight coming out of the housing as well as putting it back in. The seal is a PITA, at least it is on a Camry, a pain similar to removing the AC compressor during the TB change.

The boots will tear, but it could be some time from now.

 

[Unner]

Here is the part # for the bolts: #90080-10066. Some parts guys are good, others, well not so much.

A 36"breaker should work fine. If you have any pipe to slip over it for additional leverage, do such. If you continue to do DIY car work invest in a lithium 1/2" cordless impact (Dewalt, Milwaukee). It will do wonders for ya, similar to what that HF jack is able to achieve.

I wouldn't buy the seals; just make sure the end of the shaft is straight coming out of the housing as well as putting it back in. The seal is a PITA, at least it is on a Camry, a pain similar to removing the AC compressor during the TB change.

The boots will tear, but it could be some time from now.

Yeah normally he's good about pulling part numbers correctly, but these got messed up. The manager there is cool, he gives me the wholesale discount. The service and sales team though, that's a different story...

That AC compressor still haunts me in my dreams... I just want to be ready for when the boots do tear, since I know it's gonna happen I kinda want it to happen sooner rather than later.

I plan to keep doing my own work. I know it's done right, and it's a whole lot cheaper. Although I do feel like I wrestled a hippo all weekend installing the lift. Less busted knuckles than I'm used to though, it was cold so I was wearing gloves most of the time... The HF jack is awesome, but it doesn't go high enough to get my rear wheels off the ground anymore when jacking from the trailer hitch, not that it really matters.

 

[Kryptoroxx]

35mm socket and the 36" breaker were all that I needed to break the axle loose when I rebooted mine.

Just read through your build....very nice work indeed! I love those wheels....but I don't think they would match my truck at all.

If you ever want some more cld tiles I have some leftover (around 20lbs) from doing my entire 4runner top to bottom. Currently it's all packed away in a moving truck. I certainly won't need any more than what I have in there already. It made a sizeable difference.

Love the work keep it up!

 

[Unner]

35mm socket and the 36" breaker were all that I needed to break the axle loose when I rebooted mine.

Just read through your build....very nice work indeed! I love those wheels....but I don't think they would match my truck at all.

If you ever want some more cld tiles I have some leftover (around 20lbs) from doing my entire 4runner top to bottom. Currently it's all packed away in a moving truck. I certainly won't need any more than what I have in there already. It made a sizeable difference.

Love the work keep it up!

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind about the tiles, next step is to do the rear cargo area and then the rear doors whenever I do the rear speakers. I'll do the floor eventually too most likely, but pulling all the seats and stuff is going to be a pain.

 

[Kryptoroxx]

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind about the tiles, next step is to do the rear cargo area and then the rear doors whenever I do the rear speakers. I'll do the floor eventually too most likely, but pulling all the seats and stuff is going to be a pain.

It is but the biggest interstate noise actually comes from the roof. The stock toyota stuff sucks. Pulling the carpet and stuff is kind of a pita but it's the best way to do a deep detail of a 20 year old rig. I was able to use an upright steam cleaner and I pulled so much dirt out of the carpet I swear it's a shade lighter now lol. Smelled better too.

 

[MattJakobs]

Looks great man, looking forward to hearing how you like the new setup in the long run.

 

[Unner]

It is but the biggest interstate noise actually comes from the roof. The stock toyota stuff sucks. Pulling the carpet and stuff is kind of a pita but it's the best way to do a deep detail of a 20 year old rig. I was able to use an upright steam cleaner and I pulled so much dirt out of the carpet I swear it's a shade lighter now lol. Smelled better too.

True, depending on the weather over the next few weeks I may do this. There's so many little things like this that I want to do, but I either don't have the time or when I do have the time the weather isn't cooperating or I just don't feel like taking my truck apart haha

Looks great man, looking forward to hearing how you like the new setup in the long run.

Thanks! So far I love it. It seems to ride better than it did before with the Moog coils in the back, air bags, stock 180k coils up front, and KYB shocks all around. At slow speeds over speed bumps and such it's still pretty stiff, but that's fine. Where I really notice a difference is anything over 35 mph or so. Bumps and imperfections in the road kinda like washboards it just seems to glide over now whereas before you felt them. There is this one glob of old hard tar I drive over all the time. I used to feel it with the old suspension, but now I don't feel it at all. It's still very planted and stable too, not a lot of body roll, no more than before I think. I'm not sure if the stiffer LC shocks help that versus the 5100's a lot of people run, but I'm happy with it.



I got the bumpstops put together and installed last night. I've got pics but they're still on the camera so they will have to wait until tonight or tomorrow. I did flex it out all the way now though, she's really flexy haha

 

[MattJakobs]

Thanks! So far I love it. It seems to ride better than it did before with the Moog coils in the back, air bags, stock 180k coils up front, and KYB shocks all around. At slow speeds over speed bumps and such it's still pretty stiff, but that's fine. Where I really notice a difference is anything over 35 mph or so. Bumps and imperfections in the road kinda like washboards it just seems to glide over now whereas before you felt them. There is this one glob of old hard tar I drive over all the time. I used to feel it with the old suspension, but now I don't feel it at all. It's still very planted and stable too, not a lot of body roll, no more than before I think. I'm not sure if the stiffer LC shocks help that versus the 5100's a lot of people run, but I'm happy with it.



I got the bumpstops put together and installed last night. I've got pics but they're still on the camera so they will have to wait until tonight or tomorrow. I did flex it out all the way now though, she's really flexy haha

That's what I'm looking forward to more than anything. My on road manor is horrible right now due to my stiffness up front. When I put the 8 wraps with 5100s out back, I noticed an immediate improvement. I do however notice a lot of body roll but it's definitely expected considering how much lift I got from them. I need to get some bumpstops in sooner rather than later.

Did you ever figure out what to do about the second break line and Panhard bar?

 

[Unner]

That's what I'm looking forward to more than anything. My on road manor is horrible right now due to my stiffness up front. When I put the 8 wraps with 5100s out back, I noticed an immediate improvement. I do however notice a lot of body roll but it's definitely expected considering how much lift I got from them. I need to get some bumpstops in sooner rather than later.

Did you ever figure out what to do about the second break line and Panhard bar?

My old suspension was kinda jarring even though it was a refreshed OEM suspension. I've heard before that those KYB shocks can be kinda stiff though. It's still sorta stiff I guess, but rides better and sits taller so it's all good.

You might want to try the LC shocks if the 5100's are too soft, my coils were new though, not sure about yours. I'm sure that makes a difference too. Getting the sway bar down lower helps too with the extended links, or raising it with the brackets that come with the SS kit. If you're interested I'll be making a few extra sets of bumpstops for the rear. Like I said pics of them should be up either tonight or tomorrow.

For the rear brake line, the one over the diff is the one I couldn't get loose, I just bent the bracket down some more. It's fine when flexing, the only time it is kinda tight is if both the rear wheels are off the ground like if it were on a lift, but that doesn't happen much. I'm fine with the way it is for now. I don't see it causing any issues.

For the panhard I'm not sure yet. I really wasn't expecting it to handle as well with the stock panhard as it does. The only issue is the axle not being centered, but even then it's not too bad. I'm sure I'm the only one who will notice. When I put my spacers on though I'm sure it will be more noticeable and then I might be tempted to go with the SS adjustable bar like you did. From what I've read a drop bracket or lift is better, but I can't weld and I'm not sure I trust others welding on my truck just yet.

 

[Unner]

Here's some more pics as promised. The bumpstops are done, installed, and are the perfect height. They were installed with all brand new hardware, and fit perfect, very secure in the stock mounting points. Very easy install as well. The brackets are 3/16" steel and super sturdy.

Before install.

DSC02782 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02783 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02784 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02785 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02786 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02788 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02789 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02790 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02791 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

Versus the factory bump stops. These things are HARD, there is no give to them at all, and they obviously aren't long enough when you are running a longer shock than the factory ones.

DSC02792 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02795 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

Some installed pictures.
DSC02799 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02802 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02803 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02806 by Unner Unner, on Flickr


Some pictures of me flexing the truck all the way out and the bumpstops in the process. The driver side tire had just started to spin here so she's all the way flexed out.

DSC02810 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02812 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02814 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02816 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

 

[Unner]

Bumpstops in action. You can see they are touching the axle in these pics, doing their job perfectly.

DSC02830 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02829 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02827 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02821 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02819 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02817 by Unner Unner, on Flickr


I'm super happy with how they came out. I'll be making at least 4 more sets, maybe more if there is real interest in them. They'll be $105 shipped to your door, painted, assembled, ready for you to install with new hardware and everything. I'll have a FS thread up here soon.

Edit: FS thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...tops-3rd-gen-al-$105-shipped.html#post2204636

Today I'm gonna go change my oil, put my skid plates back on, and put my Wheelers bumpstops on the front as well hopefully.

 

[Unner]

Yesterday I got my oil changed and tires rotated. I put my center caps back on since I don't plan on taking the wheels off as much in the future as I did while I was installing and adjusting everything. She also rolled over 181k yesterday.

I also got the wheelers superbumps installed up front. I know earlier in the thread I said that I called wheelers and they said to put the bumps on the rear of the LCA, but when I did this they didn't seem to sit very well back there. The rear of the LCA is skinnier than the front and a good bit of the bump was hanging off so I decided to put the stock one back on the back and put the new wheelers ones on the front of the LCA.

This made easy work of taking the stock bumpstops off. I wear a 13 in Nike's...
DSC02857 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

Installed on Front:
DSC02843 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02846 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

Installed on Rear:
DSC02844 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02845 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

You can see how much better they fit on the front of the LCA versus the rear.

Little seepage from CV:
DSC02852 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

Front Suspension Goodness (New LBJ, ITRE, OTRE, TBU, Coilovers, & Bumpstops)
DSC02854 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

Front Bumpstops at full droop with wheel off.
DSC02855 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

Front Bumpstop with wheel back on and sitting on the ground:
DSC02858 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
DSC02859 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

I put new clips on this little protective piece too. I had to break the stock clips off when I retorqued my UCAs, I went with the plastic rivet screw things to hopefully make removal of this piece easier in the future.

DSC02860 by Unner Unner, on Flickr

The skid plates are back on now too so the truck is complete. I forgot how heavy those things are. For anyone who has to ever take off or is installing aftermarket skids I highly recommend getting a 2x10 or so that's about 2 feet long and putting it on your floor jack. Then balance the skid on top of that so you can roll it around and position it where you want and then just jack it up. These Shrockworks ones can't be just thrown around like the factory ones...

The only things left related to the lift install are the front sway bar links, spacers, and then CVs whenever that happens. My driver side one seems to have leaked just a little out of the inner boot, but it isn't getting worse I don't think. Just a little that seeped out.

This weekend I'm thinking about building my rear storage box. It's supposed to be stupidly warm for mid December, like mid 70's warm... She really needs a wash and wax too. I haven't washer her since August and I feel terrible about it.

 

[infamousRNR]

I love pics.... Such Nice pics.. Nice

 

[Unner]

I love pics.... Such Nice pics.. Nice

Thanks, I try and only post pics from my real camera now. It puts my cell phone to shame...