Upcoming Knock Sensor Work

tystaco

tystaco

New member
I am looking for advice on any additional jobs to be done while I have the intake off to do a knock sensor job. 2000 Limited with 165k.

Currently I plan to do the knock sensors to clear P0330, front coolant temp sensor, thermostat (I did the radiator and not the thermo when I first got the vehicle, newb).

Any suggestions on other items to do? I am debating sending in the injectors for cleaning, I don't think I have any issues there but wonder what others think. Valve cover gaskets were done a little bit ago.
 
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Check out the build thread of fellow member [MENTION=86759]Rock[/MENTION]_Rat for more info. He covers most everything there is to know.
 
Change the knock sensor wire harness

Might as well change out all gaskets (intake manifold gaskets, injector o-rings, etc)

Check the heater hoses and freeze plugs (would be a good time to replace)

Spark plugs and wires :shrug:
 
X's 2 on the harness! Be sure to use OEM Denso knock sensors. Read too many horror stories about other parts failing. I just had to change mine a little over a year ago.

OEM part numbers:
Toyota wire harness - 82219-34010
Denso knock sensors (2)- 89615-12040

Fel-Pro upper and lower intake gaskets - FEL-PRO MS95898

This is the same guy I bought my knock sensors from. They came in factory sealed, Denso wrappings, and were stamped Denso. Definitely waay cheaper than any other place I found. $85.00 shipped for the pair.

GENUINE OEM*NEW* 89615-12040 ***(SET OF 2)***DENSO TOYOTA LEXUS KNOCK SENSOR | eBay

The wiring harness came in factory wrapped Toyota wrappings. $18.55 shipped.

GENUINE TOYOTA OEM KNOCK SENSOR WIRE HARNESS 82219-34010 3.4L V6 4RUNNER TACOMA | eBay

I bought a set of new upper and lower Fel-Pro intake gaskets from Rockauto. They seemed to have the best price on them @ $65.78 shipped. That may have changed though. Some people say it's okay to reuse the gaskets. Seeing how in-depth this job is...I just rest easier at night, knowing that they have been replaced. I'm also supercharged, so my lower gasket takes more of a beating.

Hope this helps! Good luck!
 
I should have mentioned that I have the OEM harness and Denso Senors, as well as the gaskets. I got the sensors off of Amazon for $65 bucks for the set and they look the real deal. I discussed these with [MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION] a couple weeks ago on another thread.

I feel well prepped to do the knock sensor job, but was really just looking for other maintenance people would target when everything is torn apart.
 
Good job on the parts! As also mentioned above, I would do the o-rings on the injectors. Cheap, easy insurance. There is a lot of mileage left in your ride! Might as well go ahead and change them, seeing as how they're 17 years old, and you're going to be right on them anyways. Sitting at 268k in my '00 right now. She just keeps chugging along!
 
Agree with everyone on the additional parts to replace. I had a cell come on due to either a knock sensor or the harness so i replaced both. At the same time i did my valve covers, cam seals, pcv valve and sparks since the valve covers were off oh and injector orings are a must! I didnt change my orings and the old ones were weathered and cracked and leaked when i started it so bought new oems and replaced...voila!! Its all good now
 
Does anybody have the OEM numbers for the injector O-rings or the crush washers for the fuel rail? I found this info for stuff from NAPA, but I am wondering if the two O-rings on each injector are the same size?

Purchased from NAPA
Kit for One Injector - Upper and Lower O-Ring
PART #CRB 212077
Currently $2.70 /Kit at my store
****Another member noted ES 70600 was the correct set, not CRB 212077

Purchased from Dealership
Fuel Rail Crush Washers - need two per side
Part#90430-12026
Paid $1.70 each

I can swing by the dealer today, but I really hate dealing with them if I can order OEM off of Prime and have it here by the weekend.
 
ajordan1975 said:
why are you pulling the injectors to do the knock sensor?
Click to expand...

Might as well check the O-Rings on the injectors after pulling the fuel rail. Moving the fuel rail makes it a lot easier. When I did mine, the top O-Ring on all of the injectors tore, and had to be replaced.

Definitely do your gaskets, as well as your knock sensor harness. There is an aluminum line that runs between the two knock sensors (I think it is a coolant line), it is easier to move that (two bolts) to do what you need to do.

Good luck!
 
rookhoe said:
Might as well check the O-Rings on the injectors after pulling the fuel rail. Moving the fuel rail makes it a lot easier. When I did mine, the top O-Ring on all of the injectors tore, and had to be replaced.

Definitely do your gaskets, as well as your knock sensor harness. There is an aluminum line that runs between the two knock sensors (I think it is a coolant line), it is easier to move that (two bolts) to do what you need to do.

Good luck!
Click to expand...

You don't have to remove the fuel rail to take the intake off.
I get the whole preventative stuff, but if it aint broke........
 
ajordan1975 said:
I think you're missing my point. If you dont remove the fuel rails, you don't need to replace the orings...
Click to expand...

I understand what you typed. You don't need to remove the fuel rails, and the chances of things breaking increases as you remove more things.

We are in agreement here. :playball:
 
I have a tendency to agree with the ole motto "if it ain't broke...leave it alone."

When I did my Knock Sensors I actually replaced all of my fuel injectors with equalized injectors from LCE. I only did it as preventive maintenance as these injectors do fail from time to time. I just didn't have the desire to tear it apart again down the road. If I didn't replace the injectors, I think in this case I would have replaced the O rings only because it's already removed and so much easier to access.

Because I replaced all six injectors I had no need to replace the "O" rings. However, should you decide to replace the O rings, use a petrol based lube on them (get the ole vaseline out) to prevent them from getting sliced. Just do it on your bench once the manifold is off. Only use OEM. Aftermarket is manufactured as cheap as they can get away with.

A couple pointers here for you:

  • Make sure your sub-harness is in the channel when you install the intake manifold. If not you may crush it and end up with the codes again.
  • You don't have to, but I used some hi heat fusion tape in the valley, only because it's so hot there, the harness becomes very brittle. The fusion tape might extend the life of the harness. And it may taste awful to those critters that decide to crawl up there for the winter. (Who knows??) It won't hurt.
  • I also installed the sensors and harness dry. It shouldn't make a difference but I just didn't want anything to interfere with the signal going to the computer.
  • Be sure to cover EVERY HOLE POSSIBLE!! I've seen it on here far too many times where guys have "dropped" something and of course it's non-magnetic and now they can't fish it out. Another ole motto - "An ounce of prevention..." Tape and cover everything with a rag. Remember, your timing belt area will be exposed.
  • Use your phone and take tons of photos. If you get lost, you can always look at the pics.
  • One last item. You might get yourself ready to replace that old hard plastic case that your wiring is in. On mine, it was so brittle, it just cracked everyplace I touched it. I ended up taping my wires with hi heat resistant fusion tape and then housed them in poly loom with clamps. Just ensure it doesn't touch anything.

Here's a pic of the manifold. Have "cough... cough" fun! You got this. :thumb3:

Quick EDIT: The channel is in the lower left in the picture where the radiator hose goes.
 

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Closing the loop

Started and finished the job this weekend, so I just want to wrap up this thread in case people stumble across it in the future:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/194340-knock-sensors-harness-diy.html

^^Pretty much everything you need to know, so grateful for awesome write ups on this forum. Doing this job myself was really not bad at all, just a methodical step by step process, label things, take pictures....don't drop a nut along the firewall that gets stuck between the engine and driver's side exhaust pipe...

To reiterate what everyone has said: USE OEM PARTS ONLY! The PO clearly had this job done by someone and they used non Denso knock sensors...clearly the code came back and I think this is why they pulled the bulb from the CEL.

Also, while I had everything apart I changed out the ECT sensor up front, real easy, unplug and thread out. I planned to change the thermostat while I had the coolant drained, but it looked new so I just rotated it to 6 O'clock from 12 and reinstalled...30 miles in I am averaging 16 degrees cooler, 192 vs. 208.

This is not a hard job, just tedious and can have some tight spots to reach. I am not experienced enough to have done this without pulling the fuel rail, props to those who can, but it made it way easier to get that thing out of the way.
 
tystaco said:
Started and finished the job this weekend,
To reiterate what everyone has said: USE OEM PARTS ONLY!
Click to expand...

Great job!! Soooo... the next time someone comes up with a KS code, you're the man! :reddance: I wish they made replacement wire harness "carriers" to replace those brittle ones. Unfortunately, you have to buy the entire assy.

This forum is awesome. Again, kudos.
 
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