BrianMcC
Junior Member
Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to decide whether this is a doable job for me in my garage and cheap labor, or if I should get it professionally done. $3000 buys a lot of other things, so that stings...
*** V6 Head Gasket Action Request ***
- Thread starter morphious
- Start date
Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to decide whether this is a doable job for me in my garage and cheap labor, or if I should get it professionally done. $3000 buys a lot of other things, so that stings...
AuSeeker
Elite Member
Most dealers when doing a lot of major work or some even when just doing oil changes, etc. run all vehicles through their car wash, so that could be how water got in your head lights if the lense sealant is degrading, I would think that doing head gaskets would fit the car wash afterwards criteria at all dealerships.
They did wash it, which was why I thought it was dried soap on the lens when I picked it up. I took it back. They touched up the dash and buffed the headlights to almost new looking. Turns out the "stain" was in the outside. I could have sworn it was inside. I was scrubbing and nothing was happening. It look like it was either on the inside or some chemical that might.have damaged the lens. Apparently it wasn't. The headlamps have never looked better since I've owned it. Pretty happy with getting the head gaskets and new radiator done for $2,634.00. amazed it was that price at the Dealer. Thanks for the feedback from everyone during my month long ordeal. Haha!
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Well...my turn! :sad:
2005 4runner V6 Sport
130,000 miles
#4
I tow a 2.5k pound camper in the summer. I've installed a tranny cooler. Haven't towed this year yet.
This T4R only gets driven a few miles a day. My work is minutes from my house.
Symptoms and efforts:
- I've had the splashing liquid sound for a couple of months. I could NOT figure out what it was and thought I was going crazy until my wife finally heard it.
- Got a CEL about a month ago. I replaced the gas cap and it went away, but came back on within a week. Then the rough idle when cold started. Runs fine otherwise.
- I cleaned the throttle body and the MAF sensor. The CEL went out and my idle was really high for about a week. Drove it for about two weeks, but then the CEL came back on.
- My spark plugs are only about 1 year old, so I figured coils and/or wires were next. I started it up Saturday and the idle was very rough and I got a flashing CEL! So I decided to bring it in first thing Monday morning, today.
- I took it to a trusted indie mechanic and he just called with the bad news. It's pulling a P0300 and P0304, and when he pulled the plugs, he saw the issue. He's quoting $3,100. My jaw hit the floor. One year warranty.
At first I thought there was no way I'm going to spend that money on a 13-year-old vehicle, but it's the least expensive option. I've been eyeballing new 4runners just for fun, but having another car payment for 5 years doesn't sound so good to me. This sucks, but it only has 130k miles and I was counting on another 100k+ before giving it up. I think I just need to bite the bullet and have the work done. This has been my only issue in the last 7 years.
2005 4runner V6 Sport
130,000 miles
#4
I tow a 2.5k pound camper in the summer. I've installed a tranny cooler. Haven't towed this year yet.
This T4R only gets driven a few miles a day. My work is minutes from my house.
Symptoms and efforts:
- I've had the splashing liquid sound for a couple of months. I could NOT figure out what it was and thought I was going crazy until my wife finally heard it.
- Got a CEL about a month ago. I replaced the gas cap and it went away, but came back on within a week. Then the rough idle when cold started. Runs fine otherwise.
- I cleaned the throttle body and the MAF sensor. The CEL went out and my idle was really high for about a week. Drove it for about two weeks, but then the CEL came back on.
- My spark plugs are only about 1 year old, so I figured coils and/or wires were next. I started it up Saturday and the idle was very rough and I got a flashing CEL! So I decided to bring it in first thing Monday morning, today.
- I took it to a trusted indie mechanic and he just called with the bad news. It's pulling a P0300 and P0304, and when he pulled the plugs, he saw the issue. He's quoting $3,100. My jaw hit the floor. One year warranty.
At first I thought there was no way I'm going to spend that money on a 13-year-old vehicle, but it's the least expensive option. I've been eyeballing new 4runners just for fun, but having another car payment for 5 years doesn't sound so good to me. This sucks, but it only has 130k miles and I was counting on another 100k+ before giving it up. I think I just need to bite the bullet and have the work done. This has been my only issue in the last 7 years.
Curious to know what the outcome was? I've looked through alot of this thread, but has it been determined when the new gasket design began (build date)???
YetiX
New member
The new design head gaskets started being used in December of 2005.
Thanks for that info YetiX! So I assume your 4Runner built before then? I wonder if JMZ400 found his issue was elsewhere?
YetiX
New member
Yup, mine was built in November of 2005. :frusty: :frusty:
JMZ400
Member
Hey guys. Not really any progress with mine. When I picked it up from the shop he told me he had tried to do some testing but thought the rings maybe sticking because he was getting different numbers with every attempt, and basically suggested I just replace the engine either reman or used. Let's just say I didn't get the warm and fuzzies.
That was 3 weeks ago. Ive continued to drive it to work 65 miles per day while carefully monitoring the coolant level as well as the temperature gauge. During this time, I've not lost any coolant and had no additional rough start-ups. I did have the TRAC, Check Engine, and Skidding lights all illuminated at once about a week and a half ago. I had meant to have it scanned but they went out within two days. Ironically this morning they came on again. Heavy rains kept me from getting it scanned today, but I'll stop tomorrow and report back with the findings.
Overall I guess I'm just choosing to ignore this and it will go away. I've read tons threads, looked for replacement motors, gotten pre-approved for a replacement, and even looked at several potential candidates, but just keep coming back to keeping her. I'm able to find several replacement engines at LKQ within 50 miles of me for about $2300 with about 100k, so spending $3K on a 210k mile bottom end isn't sounding like the best option. For now I'm continuing to drive it.
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That was 3 weeks ago. Ive continued to drive it to work 65 miles per day while carefully monitoring the coolant level as well as the temperature gauge. During this time, I've not lost any coolant and had no additional rough start-ups. I did have the TRAC, Check Engine, and Skidding lights all illuminated at once about a week and a half ago. I had meant to have it scanned but they went out within two days. Ironically this morning they came on again. Heavy rains kept me from getting it scanned today, but I'll stop tomorrow and report back with the findings.
Overall I guess I'm just choosing to ignore this and it will go away. I've read tons threads, looked for replacement motors, gotten pre-approved for a replacement, and even looked at several potential candidates, but just keep coming back to keeping her. I'm able to find several replacement engines at LKQ within 50 miles of me for about $2300 with about 100k, so spending $3K on a 210k mile bottom end isn't sounding like the best option. For now I'm continuing to drive it.
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Were you able to get it scanned?
chili
New member
Add another '04 to the list
Just did my '04 at 181k miles. Had the waterfall sound from the firewall for tens of thousands of miles-- with no other symptoms I thought that was normal and people saying it's a symptom of HG failure was BS-- but they were right.
Under normal conditions, no overheating, barely any coolant loss, ran like a top, BUT upon towing a small camper at highway speeds, after about 10 miles, the temperature shot up. Carefully limped without overheating to somewhere I could work on it, and it appeared the thermostat decided to go. New t-stat. Coolant flush to ensure no clogs, new Toyota coolant, bled air, etc. Few weeks later, another towing test, less than 3 miles at highway speeds, lower radiator hose blows off radiator and there goes all the coolant.
Diagnosis by me: exhaust in the cooling system, under high revs/engine stress it was over-pressurizing the cooling system. Probably caused the t-stat to fail, and the lower hose to pop off. The last time I towed was a year ago and back then had a leaky radiator- I assume any exhaust pressure in the system was able to leak out that way. With new radiator, cap, and t-stat the pressure had nowhere to vent. Topped off with coolant, it started to blow out the overflow tank cap consistently. Finally diagnosed noticeable gas/exhaust smell when the rad cap was opened cold, and always low on coolant (in radiator, not overflow tank).
About $500 in parts from Toyota, 6 full days in the garage, plenty of foul language, cuts and bruises, and it's running great. Took a whole day to get the exhausts off the heads, which had to come out of the car with the heads.... If you're in the rust belt and never touched the exhaust headers before, do yourself a favor and buy new nuts and studs.. and a stud extractor tool. Had to special order these from the dealer who needed the VIN because there were THREE different part numbers for the studs for 2004 (wtf?).
I should add that I got the overhaul gasket kit and a new water pump. They don't tell you but the water pump and the overhaul kit come with a water pump gasket, so don't order an extra like I did. Could have done the valve seals, but didn't. Replaced every seal and gasket I could identify with stuff from the overhaul kit during reassembly. Also cleaned the crap out of the heads, the intake manifold, the throttle body, and discovered the #6 injector screen was mostly clogged. I think I went through 4 cans of carb cleaner, a can of sensitive electronic cleaner, and a can of brakleen.
Big thanks to a fellow forum member [MENTION=112658]nossliw[/MENTION] for this post on his process: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/174451-new-member-need-help-p304-misfire.html#post1806657. I had the FSM but wasn't completely convinced to tackle it myself until finding that thread.
Both head gaskets had obvious leaks. One between cylinders 5 and 6 and the coolant passage, and at least one cylinder and the coolant passage on the other side. No leaks around the oil passages. With the new gaskets in, no more waterfall sound and the coolant has stayed up to the top of the radiator after one air bleed/top off. Been about 500 miles, towed the camper and really thrashed the engine; no problems.
My first car was a 1988 BMW 535 which I sold at 250k miles... with no major engine work. A Toyota truck shouldn't blow its head gaskets when it's so young-- or EVER.
Just did my '04 at 181k miles. Had the waterfall sound from the firewall for tens of thousands of miles-- with no other symptoms I thought that was normal and people saying it's a symptom of HG failure was BS-- but they were right.
Under normal conditions, no overheating, barely any coolant loss, ran like a top, BUT upon towing a small camper at highway speeds, after about 10 miles, the temperature shot up. Carefully limped without overheating to somewhere I could work on it, and it appeared the thermostat decided to go. New t-stat. Coolant flush to ensure no clogs, new Toyota coolant, bled air, etc. Few weeks later, another towing test, less than 3 miles at highway speeds, lower radiator hose blows off radiator and there goes all the coolant.
Diagnosis by me: exhaust in the cooling system, under high revs/engine stress it was over-pressurizing the cooling system. Probably caused the t-stat to fail, and the lower hose to pop off. The last time I towed was a year ago and back then had a leaky radiator- I assume any exhaust pressure in the system was able to leak out that way. With new radiator, cap, and t-stat the pressure had nowhere to vent. Topped off with coolant, it started to blow out the overflow tank cap consistently. Finally diagnosed noticeable gas/exhaust smell when the rad cap was opened cold, and always low on coolant (in radiator, not overflow tank).
About $500 in parts from Toyota, 6 full days in the garage, plenty of foul language, cuts and bruises, and it's running great. Took a whole day to get the exhausts off the heads, which had to come out of the car with the heads.... If you're in the rust belt and never touched the exhaust headers before, do yourself a favor and buy new nuts and studs.. and a stud extractor tool. Had to special order these from the dealer who needed the VIN because there were THREE different part numbers for the studs for 2004 (wtf?).
I should add that I got the overhaul gasket kit and a new water pump. They don't tell you but the water pump and the overhaul kit come with a water pump gasket, so don't order an extra like I did. Could have done the valve seals, but didn't. Replaced every seal and gasket I could identify with stuff from the overhaul kit during reassembly. Also cleaned the crap out of the heads, the intake manifold, the throttle body, and discovered the #6 injector screen was mostly clogged. I think I went through 4 cans of carb cleaner, a can of sensitive electronic cleaner, and a can of brakleen.
Big thanks to a fellow forum member [MENTION=112658]nossliw[/MENTION] for this post on his process: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/174451-new-member-need-help-p304-misfire.html#post1806657. I had the FSM but wasn't completely convinced to tackle it myself until finding that thread.
Both head gaskets had obvious leaks. One between cylinders 5 and 6 and the coolant passage, and at least one cylinder and the coolant passage on the other side. No leaks around the oil passages. With the new gaskets in, no more waterfall sound and the coolant has stayed up to the top of the radiator after one air bleed/top off. Been about 500 miles, towed the camper and really thrashed the engine; no problems.
My first car was a 1988 BMW 535 which I sold at 250k miles... with no major engine work. A Toyota truck shouldn't blow its head gaskets when it's so young-- or EVER.
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Glad you got the truck fixed up, I know its a huge PITA job. Sounds like you did it right by taking your time and making sure it was completed properly.
To be fair, the M30 in the 535i has been around for twenty years at that point and was the final variation of that engine. There would have been no excuse for any type of issues after having that much time to iron out any problems.
I also used to own a 1990 535i 5spd that died of rust @ 200k. The M30 still pulled strong as the day I bought it, however the frame rot was just too advanced and there was no saving it. Once the gas tank fell out and there was no way to remount due to rust I had to part it and send to the crusher.
The 1GR-FE was only put into service two years prior to 04 the build date, and Toyota did address the failing HG issue in 2005 once discovered with an improved design. Don't see many HG issues on 1GR-FE post 12/05 build date. I also haven't heard of any 5th gen owners with the issue either.
I still believe Toyota should have issued a recall and its poor form of them to acknowledge the issue at the corporate level but do nothing about it, unless you complain nonstop and have an attorney write threatening letters.
To be fair, the M30 in the 535i has been around for twenty years at that point and was the final variation of that engine. There would have been no excuse for any type of issues after having that much time to iron out any problems.
I also used to own a 1990 535i 5spd that died of rust @ 200k. The M30 still pulled strong as the day I bought it, however the frame rot was just too advanced and there was no saving it. Once the gas tank fell out and there was no way to remount due to rust I had to part it and send to the crusher.
The 1GR-FE was only put into service two years prior to 04 the build date, and Toyota did address the failing HG issue in 2005 once discovered with an improved design. Don't see many HG issues on 1GR-FE post 12/05 build date. I also haven't heard of any 5th gen owners with the issue either.
I still believe Toyota should have issued a recall and its poor form of them to acknowledge the issue at the corporate level but do nothing about it, unless you complain nonstop and have an attorney write threatening letters.
It's not hard to do, but it is a lot of work. My son is a mechanic so that helped me, but if you have prints of the service manual it is fairly straight forward. Not gonna lie, it probably took us close to 18-20 hours. The key is to have an area to bag and layout parts as you take them off so you can keep track of everything, there are a lot. Taking pictures along the way might help you as well. You'll need a few tools, special socket for taking the heads off and inch and foot pound torque wrenches. I was planning on keeping that runner and using it for trail use later down the road so I had the heads cleaned and milled to spec as they were slightly out and new valve seals. Then last year an ass hole hit me on the highway and totaled it.
Then you need to weight the possibility of the replacement engine developing the problem.
As it "JUST" happened to me, figured it was worth adding to the list.
YEAR: 2004
Production Date: UNK
4X4
Mileage: 183,460 (failure was earlier, probably around 182K or so
Cylinder 4 (misfire codes) and rough starting idle (50% of the time
Some coolant lost but no steam or water evidence. I think we caught it early. Took it to a friend for repair, just got it back today.
John in N.C.
YEAR: 2004
Production Date: UNK
4X4
Mileage: 183,460 (failure was earlier, probably around 182K or so
Cylinder 4 (misfire codes) and rough starting idle (50% of the time
Some coolant lost but no steam or water evidence. I think we caught it early. Took it to a friend for repair, just got it back today.
John in N.C.
JMZ400
Member
Yes sir anything is possible however the only replacement motors I'd consider would be 08 and up, theoretically putting more than enough space between me and this possible chronic issue.
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JMZ400
Member
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Jixxer6
New member
Well I decided to try some BG stop leak we have at work. I’ve used it for other leaks and it works excellent, unfortunately it’s not available over the counter. It says will work on seeping head gaskets on the bottle. I put a bottle in and took it on a couple road tests to get the stuff hot and mixed well. The 4runner would run like crap if you let it sit for 30 minutes before. It’s been 4 days and no starting issues any more. No check engine lights and no rough running. Fingers crossed but I think I bought myself some time. I’ll report back if the problem reoccurs.
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/cooling-system/bg-universal-cooling-system-sealer/
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https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/cooling-system/bg-universal-cooling-system-sealer/
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