V6 Tick Tic Tap Noise Reduced!

I got rid of the tick in my tacoma (same 4.0 motor) by running a tank of premium every 4th fill up. I did this for a year and it has eliminated the tick completely
 
Adding a testament, thought I had an exhaust leak but this fix ended all the tippy tappy noises. This was on a 2003 v6 with 220k miles
 
Could it just be fuel injector tick? might be worth a high-ish dose of Seafoam to see if the extra lubricity helps with the noise, or cleans them up inside.
 
This may be controversial, but there's a body of anecdotal evidence that mixing TCW3 two-cycle oil at low concentration, 640:1 or 500:1, may have good effect on this if the noise is generated by a component washed by gas e.g. injectors.

Here's the thread that started it all:

Been testing Oil

I've been running 640:1 (1 oz per 5 gallons of gas) approximately every other tank. Math is easy, each tick mark on the 4Runner fuel gauge is ~5 gallons. Been doing this since 2018 (4 years now) at over 80K miles, the truck is at 269K miles total.

Not saying I'm recommending or endorsing this given the unconventional nature, just sharing info and experience.
 
This may be controversial, but there's a body of anecdotal evidence that mixing TCW3 two-cycle oil at low concentration, 640:1 or 500:1, may have good effect on this if the noise is generated by a component washed by gas e.g. injectors.

Here's the thread that started it all:

Been testing Oil

I've been running 640:1 (1 oz per 5 gallons of gas) approximately every other tank. Math is easy, each tick mark on the 4Runner fuel gauge is ~5 gallons. Been doing this since 2018 (4 years now) at over 80K miles, the truck is at 269K miles total.

Not saying I'm recommending or endorsing this given the unconventional nature, just sharing info and experience.

Same here

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3746959-post25.html

Plugs etc looked OK when changed I guess?
 
Same here

Plugs etc looked OK when changed I guess?

When I changed my dealer-sourced Denso plugs last month at 44K miles, the coloration and gaps were normal and I wish I'd kept the gap measurements I took. Nice light tan color on the insulator cone, easily could have gone much longer.

I check my Long Term Fuel Trim data periodically via scanner and both banks are within 0.78% (one increment) of each other. Impressive for 270K mile factory injectors and negligent maintenance by the original owner for its first 164K miles.

Hard to say if TCW3 oil has anything to do with this, but also hard to rule out and a cheap measure...so I'll keep doing it.
 
When I changed my dealer-sourced Denso plugs last month at 44K miles, the coloration and gaps were normal and I wish I'd kept the gap measurements I took. Nice light tan color on the insulator cone, easily could have gone much longer.

I check my Long Term Fuel Trim data periodically via scanner and both banks are within 0.78% (one increment) of each other. Impressive for 270K mile factory injectors and negligent maintenance by the original owner for its first 164K miles.

Hard to say if TCW3 oil has anything to do with this, but also hard to rule out and a cheap measure...so I'll keep doing it.

Good point...I'll see if I can find my JOBD lead and see what my fuel trim stats are.
 
When I changed my dealer-sourced Denso plugs last month at 44K miles, the coloration and gaps were normal and I wish I'd kept the gap measurements I took. Nice light tan color on the insulator cone, easily could have gone much longer.

I check my Long Term Fuel Trim data periodically via scanner and both banks are within 0.78% (one increment) of each other. Impressive for 270K mile factory injectors and negligent maintenance by the original owner for its first 164K miles.

Hard to say if TCW3 oil has anything to do with this, but also hard to rule out and a cheap measure...so I'll keep doing it.


What do you think of these numbers? (Engine was off)

Short FT B1S1: 0.00
Long FT B1S1: -7.9%
Total FT #1: 0.00
Short FT B2S1: 0.00
Long FT B2S1: -4.7%
Total FT #2: 0.00


 
What do you think of these numbers? (Engine was off)

Short FT B1S1: 0.00
Long FT B1S1: -7.9%
Total FT #1: 0.00
Short FT B2S1: 0.00
Long FT B2S1: -4.7%
Total FT #2: 0.00

Modern ECMs I've worked with store and report fuel trims in 2D table cells according to engine operating conditions, usually RPM on one axis and calculated load on the other axis. I examine fuel trim data at hot idle, cruising speed, and high load acceleration e.g. uphill at ~50% throttle to get an idea of how the engine is running.
 
Modern ECMs I've worked with store and report fuel trims in 2D table cells according to engine operating conditions, usually RPM on one axis and calculated load on the other axis. I examine fuel trim data at hot idle, cruising speed, and high load acceleration e.g. uphill at ~50% throttle to get an idea of how the engine is running.

Thanks for that, I'll dig the laptop out again and report back
 
Just wanted to say big thanks for posting this, my local mechanic and I were both very puzzled as to why the ticking noise was louder on the drivers side! We could hear it very clearly outside of the car, from a couple feet away.
For anyone who wants to know if this is worth trying, if you have a mechanics stethoscope, just start the car and put the scope on the valve indicated. If you hear a very loud tapping noise, then doing this mod is absolutely worth it.

I didn't bother with the double sided tape or washers, I just used a rubber grommet I had laying around that happened to be the right diameter and when tightening the bolt real snug it squeezes enough to create a solid contact but is still firm enough to provide a solid tight hold. Very easy, very much worth the 5 minutes it took.
 

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