V8 exhaust manifold
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- Start date
cruzmissile
New member
Some tips and tools needed....
I'd like to say that I started this job thinking i had all the tools i would need.....WRONG!
The wound up investing in pneumatic tools (3/8" socket and 1/2" impact), neither of which really helpled me with the removal of the old manifold which had 70,000 miles and 5 very salty winters to help lock it in!!
What really helped and I mean this is an absolute, is go down to Sears and get yourself a set of those sockets meant just for rusty/stripped bolts. I forget what they are called but I can take a pic of them for you. I stripped my second nut with a standard 12 point socket (14mm). Once i had my new sockets; it would lock right in and I could then put the force needed to break them loose although most of them came out via studs because they were so rusted at the nut.
Another must is about 20" of extension, I used 1/2" because I measured over 130 ft/lbs of force to get these loose. CRAZY knuckle buster is you don't have that socket grab tight. Like I said, the the impact wrench did not help me as I needed the leverage of that long torque wrench.
I busted 2 Craftsman 3/8'' swivel joints in the process so I would recommend buying an impact grade swivel (that is a whole lota force to break the nuts/studs loose.
I did spray the nuts with WD-40 days before I was to work on it but that again really didn't help me as most broke at the stud behind the manifold.
Go ahead and spray the bolts on the pipe connection behind the manifold and then again on the Y pipe that connects the other manifold with the common pipe going to the muffler.
In the end; I ordered the following:
New manifold (of course)
New studs/nuts for the manifold and the exhaust pipe connections from the last CAT to the Y pipe.
New seals for the exhaust pipe connections (3 of them)
New bolts for the heat shield
AND......since the air pipe that connects to the top of the manifold had very rusty nuts which stripped on me, I would up getting my Dremel out with a 1" cutting wheel that somehow cut into the pipe. This is now repaired with some heat tape cause the new pipe won't be here until the end of Sept.
I'd like to say that I started this job thinking i had all the tools i would need.....WRONG!
The wound up investing in pneumatic tools (3/8" socket and 1/2" impact), neither of which really helpled me with the removal of the old manifold which had 70,000 miles and 5 very salty winters to help lock it in!!
What really helped and I mean this is an absolute, is go down to Sears and get yourself a set of those sockets meant just for rusty/stripped bolts. I forget what they are called but I can take a pic of them for you. I stripped my second nut with a standard 12 point socket (14mm). Once i had my new sockets; it would lock right in and I could then put the force needed to break them loose although most of them came out via studs because they were so rusted at the nut.
Another must is about 20" of extension, I used 1/2" because I measured over 130 ft/lbs of force to get these loose. CRAZY knuckle buster is you don't have that socket grab tight. Like I said, the the impact wrench did not help me as I needed the leverage of that long torque wrench.
I busted 2 Craftsman 3/8'' swivel joints in the process so I would recommend buying an impact grade swivel (that is a whole lota force to break the nuts/studs loose.
I did spray the nuts with WD-40 days before I was to work on it but that again really didn't help me as most broke at the stud behind the manifold.
Go ahead and spray the bolts on the pipe connection behind the manifold and then again on the Y pipe that connects the other manifold with the common pipe going to the muffler.
In the end; I ordered the following:
New manifold (of course)
New studs/nuts for the manifold and the exhaust pipe connections from the last CAT to the Y pipe.
New seals for the exhaust pipe connections (3 of them)
New bolts for the heat shield
AND......since the air pipe that connects to the top of the manifold had very rusty nuts which stripped on me, I would up getting my Dremel out with a 1" cutting wheel that somehow cut into the pipe. This is now repaired with some heat tape cause the new pipe won't be here until the end of Sept.
Ducman
New member
Cracked exhaust manifold ticking
This is what I get to listen to anytime the exhaust has cooled off.
Exhaust leak ticking. :rant:
2005 V8 Toyota 4Runner cracked exhaust manifold ticking - YouTube
This is what I get to listen to anytime the exhaust has cooled off.
Exhaust leak ticking. :rant:
2005 V8 Toyota 4Runner cracked exhaust manifold ticking - YouTube
Last edited:
leaky - broken manifold
I have the exact same problem and sound. I went to Midas thinking that it was a hole in the muffler. iI expected to get some bad news in the range of $400-500; I was wrong. Then the guy comes back and says, "well it is much worse, it is a broken right manifold... parts alone was $1100 plus another $1000 on labor".
Note that this is ONE side only... so if 2 sides were damaged... you will be better in replacing a whole engine.
I am not familiar to what is required for a re-call but it is very common problen in the same exact location: translation: "manufacturers quality issue" . Which should be covered by a recall---Maybe a letter to the proper Goverment agencies should help getting this going.
What we need is numbers/ratio of affected engines.
Perhaps we should start a poll.
How many members have had this issue?
I'll start:
05SportV8 -1
I have the exact same problem and sound. I went to Midas thinking that it was a hole in the muffler. iI expected to get some bad news in the range of $400-500; I was wrong. Then the guy comes back and says, "well it is much worse, it is a broken right manifold... parts alone was $1100 plus another $1000 on labor".
Note that this is ONE side only... so if 2 sides were damaged... you will be better in replacing a whole engine.
I am not familiar to what is required for a re-call but it is very common problen in the same exact location: translation: "manufacturers quality issue" . Which should be covered by a recall---Maybe a letter to the proper Goverment agencies should help getting this going.
What we need is numbers/ratio of affected engines.
Perhaps we should start a poll.
How many members have had this issue?
I'll start:
05SportV8 -1
Ducman
New member
Manifold
Several Toyota dealers sell brand new OEM Toyota exhaust manifolds for between $600-$700. Then a gasket and new bolts will set you back like $50-$60 or so. Then you just have to figure out what your time is worth to you. Pay the dealer $1000 to install or spend 10-12 hours of your own time installing it yourself.
I will be saving myself the $1,000 and replacing mine in spring.
I'll definitely be posting a howto with lots of pictures.
Several Toyota dealers sell brand new OEM Toyota exhaust manifolds for between $600-$700. Then a gasket and new bolts will set you back like $50-$60 or so. Then you just have to figure out what your time is worth to you. Pay the dealer $1000 to install or spend 10-12 hours of your own time installing it yourself.
I will be saving myself the $1,000 and replacing mine in spring.
I'll definitely be posting a howto with lots of pictures.
Ducman
New member
Cruzmissle,
Could you confirm for me what the part number was on your new manifold? Also was it a once piece with the catalytic converter and did it have the big heavy loose flange 'brick' type thing that held the manifold on?
I'm a little confused on part numbers at the moment as I come up with this one.
Last edited:
cruzmissile
New member
Part #
I'll check the p/n tonight but the unit in the picture is exactly what I bought from Toyota (plus every nut, bolt and gasket in getting to it).
In addition, I had to purchase the air tube that is connected to the top left of the manifold (not sure what purpose it serves yet). I wound up cutting into it when cutting the bolt off.
I'll check the p/n tonight but the unit in the picture is exactly what I bought from Toyota (plus every nut, bolt and gasket in getting to it).
In addition, I had to purchase the air tube that is connected to the top left of the manifold (not sure what purpose it serves yet). I wound up cutting into it when cutting the bolt off.
ninefinger
New member
removed manifold
I'd like to get my hands on a used / cracked manifold if you haven't recycled it yet.
A few of my reasons:
1) to see if there any ways to repair the original (ie weld a new flange on with a slightly larger radius and relieve the clamping flange, or ???
2) to see if there are performance improvements that can be made to header (ie clean up inside joints to allow better flow)
3) use its base geometry to design a new header.....
Mine has the same problem and probably the same level of difficulty in removal as cruzmissile but I'm willing to let it slide till it becomes an issue (ie won't pass an e-test), or I know I can eek out more HP from an upgrade....
anyways - let me know if you'd be willing to part with your cracked manifold - I'd like to get both sides eventually but the right side would be my starting point.
Mike
I'd like to get my hands on a used / cracked manifold if you haven't recycled it yet.
A few of my reasons:
1) to see if there any ways to repair the original (ie weld a new flange on with a slightly larger radius and relieve the clamping flange, or ???
2) to see if there are performance improvements that can be made to header (ie clean up inside joints to allow better flow)
3) use its base geometry to design a new header.....
Mine has the same problem and probably the same level of difficulty in removal as cruzmissile but I'm willing to let it slide till it becomes an issue (ie won't pass an e-test), or I know I can eek out more HP from an upgrade....
anyways - let me know if you'd be willing to part with your cracked manifold - I'd like to get both sides eventually but the right side would be my starting point.
Mike
toy51
New member
my truck is at the dealer right now, and from what I understand they're replacing at least one of the cats under the sulfur odor TSB. I also definitely have the 'tick', and they're looking to see if one or both manifolds need to be R&R. so if it's the upstream cat, from that pic, it looks like the cat/manifold are the same piece.
that is an 03-04 model. I know the newer V8s have 4 cats, because there are 2 of them (though are they just resonators? i doubt it) under the body before the Y-pipe. so maybe that's the catalytic they're replacing under the TSB. hopefully I find out today..
that is an 03-04 model. I know the newer V8s have 4 cats, because there are 2 of them (though are they just resonators? i doubt it) under the body before the Y-pipe. so maybe that's the catalytic they're replacing under the TSB. hopefully I find out today..
MackinawGR
New member
Exhaust Manifold
I have a 05 4Runner Sport, 4.7 V8, with 96K on it. I had it in for a malfunctioning moon roof, under warranty, which they replaced (had service issues with that too).
I had noticed the "ticking" sound but was told that was normal, of course after the warranty expired, they told me I had cracked exhaust manifolds on BOTH sides. Called dealer to find price was $750 ea. I am not pleased to have to pay for the replacement of these manifolds. I talked to a professional welder...told me welding/brazing is a crap shoot (would still need to be machined flat cause of warping)...could or couldn't work or would just band aid it for a while. Have to gotten a quote on the work, but was told that I might as well have the timing belt/water pump done while they had it. Am looking around 2K....not happy 4 Runner owner. Love the truck, not this issue and it seems to be VERY common.
I have a 05 4Runner Sport, 4.7 V8, with 96K on it. I had it in for a malfunctioning moon roof, under warranty, which they replaced (had service issues with that too).
I had noticed the "ticking" sound but was told that was normal, of course after the warranty expired, they told me I had cracked exhaust manifolds on BOTH sides. Called dealer to find price was $750 ea. I am not pleased to have to pay for the replacement of these manifolds. I talked to a professional welder...told me welding/brazing is a crap shoot (would still need to be machined flat cause of warping)...could or couldn't work or would just band aid it for a while. Have to gotten a quote on the work, but was told that I might as well have the timing belt/water pump done while they had it. Am looking around 2K....not happy 4 Runner owner. Love the truck, not this issue and it seems to be VERY common.
ben550
New member
My V8 has developed the tick over the past year or so. It is getting more noticeable.
I called in for a quote today and got the following
Right Side:
Parts- $900
Labor- $ 317
Left Side:
Parts- $863
Labor- $210
1 year 12,000k mile warranty...
Total bill $2,300 plus tax for both left and right manifold installed...
I am considering buying the main parts online... can buy parts for
around 1200 online... from Toyota dealer and have local dealer install while retaining the warranty...
That would drop the price to under 2k...
I called in for a quote today and got the following
Right Side:
Parts- $900
Labor- $ 317
Left Side:
Parts- $863
Labor- $210
1 year 12,000k mile warranty...
Total bill $2,300 plus tax for both left and right manifold installed...
I am considering buying the main parts online... can buy parts for
around 1200 online... from Toyota dealer and have local dealer install while retaining the warranty...
That would drop the price to under 2k...
??? is it spring yet? :whipping2
bradplaysguitar
New member
Passenger side exhaust manifold removal
Howdy ya'll.
After doing much debating with myself and being totally frustrated about the awful ticking sound and sulfur smell I've been experiencing for about a year or two that made me fall out of love with my 2005 4runner SR5 V8 VVTi, I finally decided to attempt replacing the manifolds myself. There is next to NO helpful information online on how to approach this, so I hope that I can shed some light from my experience.
I just finished removing my passenger side exhaust manifold. Truthfully, not as hard as I was anticipating, but still quite a tough challenge.
MUST HAVE TOOLS
- my battery powered Bosch high torque 18v impact drill was great for this job. YOU NEED A GOOD IMPACT WRENCH.
- 14mm impact 6 point socket (12 point will round your nuts). This would be the perfect socket for the whole job: SNAP ON 14 MM SEMI-DEEP IMPACT SWIVEL SOCKET
- Impact extensions 1/2" and 3/8" 20-24"
-Engine lift
- Die grinder with cutoff wheel or dremel (just incase you need to cut some bolts in tight spots
- 1/2" to 3/8" impact adapter
- 14mm nut extractor like THIS
- Torch
- PB Blaster
First I applied PB blaster to all nuts to be removed over the course of 2-3 days.
Looking into the wheel well, I was able to remove the farthest left cylinder top and bottom nuts, the second cylinder top nut, and the front top and bottom nuts. I would first hit it with a bunch of heat from the torch, and then hit it with PB Blaster. I used my 14mm extractor with a 22mm socket around that on an impact grade universal socket swivel with as long of an extension as I needed.
For the bottom of the second one, bottom of the third and the top of the third one, I had to undo the two engine mount bolts and using an engine hoist had to lift the passenger side of the engine up about two inches - just until the catalytic converter hit the firewall - watch your bumper on the hoist!
From there, I could very awkwardly get the extractor or my 14mm impact socket on the nut first, and then would add the my universal swivel, and then would extend it out to a convenient spot, one piece at a time. Building the adapters this way allowed me to feed any extensions in through tight spots to get it as straight as I could. My extractor was getting a bit blunt by the end but fortunately the 14mm impact socket had enough to grab.
The top one of the third cylinder behind the engine mount was the hardest. I had to used my 1/2" drive ratchet and got at it from the top.
The studs came out of all of them but two. The end of the studs were so rusted and wart-y looking that the nuts ended up just binding and the whole stud came out. I had to cut one of the engine mount bolts off to be able to lift the engine a bit. The exhaust flange bolts just after the catalytic converter either snapped or were cut. I snapped one of the heat shield nuts off in the manifold but the other three came off ok. The two bolts securing the air tube thing (what is this for anyways?) on the top of the manifold came off ok. I used a flat head to pry the tube flange apart to get it off those little studs. I had to hammer the cut bolts on the exhaust flange to separate that bit. Then the manifold was free!! After it came loose I had to play with the engine lift a bit to give me the clearance to slide it out. Once it was mostly free and there was a little weight on the O2 sensor wires, I had to lower the engine back down to get the clip. Right on top at the back of the clip just press down. The weight of the manifold made it easy to separate the connection. And then finally, it was free. The front flange was cracked pretty badly AND the first flange.
I'd say it took me (a total novice) max 8 hours to get it off. Toyota dealer ship here in Victoria, BC, Canada wanted nearly $3000 CAD for the OEM manifolds plus another $2000 CAD for labour (16hrs @ $120.00). I was going to go with the walker manifolds (got one off amazon for $216.00 US) and one off RockAuto ($550.00 CAD) but I ended up deciding to go with the Dough Thorley Headers. Ordered them today. Hopefully they fit up nice and my local muffler shop can do a good job welding on the catalytic converters. I figure for the time and effort, I'd rather have a bit of an upgrade rather than just replace it with the same, expensive parts.
I'll be doing the driver side over the next few days. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
Not sure why the pictures below may not be working, just right click and select open in new tab - they should work then.
Howdy ya'll.
After doing much debating with myself and being totally frustrated about the awful ticking sound and sulfur smell I've been experiencing for about a year or two that made me fall out of love with my 2005 4runner SR5 V8 VVTi, I finally decided to attempt replacing the manifolds myself. There is next to NO helpful information online on how to approach this, so I hope that I can shed some light from my experience.
I just finished removing my passenger side exhaust manifold. Truthfully, not as hard as I was anticipating, but still quite a tough challenge.
MUST HAVE TOOLS
- my battery powered Bosch high torque 18v impact drill was great for this job. YOU NEED A GOOD IMPACT WRENCH.
- 14mm impact 6 point socket (12 point will round your nuts). This would be the perfect socket for the whole job: SNAP ON 14 MM SEMI-DEEP IMPACT SWIVEL SOCKET
- Impact extensions 1/2" and 3/8" 20-24"
-Engine lift
- Die grinder with cutoff wheel or dremel (just incase you need to cut some bolts in tight spots
- 1/2" to 3/8" impact adapter
- 14mm nut extractor like THIS
- Torch
- PB Blaster
First I applied PB blaster to all nuts to be removed over the course of 2-3 days.
Looking into the wheel well, I was able to remove the farthest left cylinder top and bottom nuts, the second cylinder top nut, and the front top and bottom nuts. I would first hit it with a bunch of heat from the torch, and then hit it with PB Blaster. I used my 14mm extractor with a 22mm socket around that on an impact grade universal socket swivel with as long of an extension as I needed.
For the bottom of the second one, bottom of the third and the top of the third one, I had to undo the two engine mount bolts and using an engine hoist had to lift the passenger side of the engine up about two inches - just until the catalytic converter hit the firewall - watch your bumper on the hoist!
From there, I could very awkwardly get the extractor or my 14mm impact socket on the nut first, and then would add the my universal swivel, and then would extend it out to a convenient spot, one piece at a time. Building the adapters this way allowed me to feed any extensions in through tight spots to get it as straight as I could. My extractor was getting a bit blunt by the end but fortunately the 14mm impact socket had enough to grab.
The top one of the third cylinder behind the engine mount was the hardest. I had to used my 1/2" drive ratchet and got at it from the top.
The studs came out of all of them but two. The end of the studs were so rusted and wart-y looking that the nuts ended up just binding and the whole stud came out. I had to cut one of the engine mount bolts off to be able to lift the engine a bit. The exhaust flange bolts just after the catalytic converter either snapped or were cut. I snapped one of the heat shield nuts off in the manifold but the other three came off ok. The two bolts securing the air tube thing (what is this for anyways?) on the top of the manifold came off ok. I used a flat head to pry the tube flange apart to get it off those little studs. I had to hammer the cut bolts on the exhaust flange to separate that bit. Then the manifold was free!! After it came loose I had to play with the engine lift a bit to give me the clearance to slide it out. Once it was mostly free and there was a little weight on the O2 sensor wires, I had to lower the engine back down to get the clip. Right on top at the back of the clip just press down. The weight of the manifold made it easy to separate the connection. And then finally, it was free. The front flange was cracked pretty badly AND the first flange.
I'd say it took me (a total novice) max 8 hours to get it off. Toyota dealer ship here in Victoria, BC, Canada wanted nearly $3000 CAD for the OEM manifolds plus another $2000 CAD for labour (16hrs @ $120.00). I was going to go with the walker manifolds (got one off amazon for $216.00 US) and one off RockAuto ($550.00 CAD) but I ended up deciding to go with the Dough Thorley Headers. Ordered them today. Hopefully they fit up nice and my local muffler shop can do a good job welding on the catalytic converters. I figure for the time and effort, I'd rather have a bit of an upgrade rather than just replace it with the same, expensive parts.
I'll be doing the driver side over the next few days. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
Not sure why the pictures below may not be working, just right click and select open in new tab - they should work then.
Chunderthunder
New member
Thanks Brad and your guitar for posting up this process. This will help me lots in the coming weeks and I take my cracked manifolds off!
How did the install go with the Thorley headers? I am about to pull the trigger on the Thorley headers or Walker manifolds but for the $30 or so difference I might as well get the headers and spend a bit more again on welding those cats on and having a bit of an upgrade like you said. Did you ever contemplate removing those two forward cats? What did you conclude about the eventuality that those cats needs to be replaced in the future; buy a cheap manifold (I.e. Pacesetter) and cut and weld on cat from that manifold?
From what I can tell all aftermarket manifolds crack again at some point. Did you hear any different about the Walkers that made you almost go that route?
Any surprise customs charges after the headers came across the boarder?
Thanks from a fellow BC boy!
How did the install go with the Thorley headers? I am about to pull the trigger on the Thorley headers or Walker manifolds but for the $30 or so difference I might as well get the headers and spend a bit more again on welding those cats on and having a bit of an upgrade like you said. Did you ever contemplate removing those two forward cats? What did you conclude about the eventuality that those cats needs to be replaced in the future; buy a cheap manifold (I.e. Pacesetter) and cut and weld on cat from that manifold?
From what I can tell all aftermarket manifolds crack again at some point. Did you hear any different about the Walkers that made you almost go that route?
Any surprise customs charges after the headers came across the boarder?
Thanks from a fellow BC boy!
toytwo
New member
I have an '07 V8 with the passenger side manifold leak also so I will be doing this job myself in the near future. One thing I wanted to clarify is the 2nd catalytic converter under passenger side floor (the one closest to the muffler). Mine has no cat-mounted heat shield & the drawings in the parts diagrams I have seen do not show one. There are also no witness marks on it that would indicate there was one. There is one on the driver's side under-floor cat. I noticed this when I checked for a rattle which turned out to be the driver's side floor cat. Can anyone confirm that this is how they come from the factory? There are floor mounted heat shields for both sides but only the driver's side has a cat mounted shield. In looking at the 2 cats they are shaped a bit different with the driver's side better shaped to accept the shield/clamp. Also in the parts listings the heat shield parts for the driver's side are all available but nothing for the other side & it does specify LH side for those heat shield parts. Thanks.
General Kornilov
New member
I don't know why anyone would pay $1500-$2000 for a pair of OEM manifolds when you can get after market one for a 1/4 or 1/3 of the price. Even if you're not doing the work yourself, still saving $1000 on parts would be good. Plus, if the OEM ones were that good, they wouldn't be cracking at 100K miles.
Reminds me of when the leaf springs broke on my 96 Tacoma. OEM Toyota replacements were $800 EACH - $1600 for LEAF SPRINGS. I got a pair of Dormans off Rock Auto for something like $216 shipped to my door.
Im all for going with OEM replacement when necessary or feasible, but something are just dumb to overpay on.
Reminds me of when the leaf springs broke on my 96 Tacoma. OEM Toyota replacements were $800 EACH - $1600 for LEAF SPRINGS. I got a pair of Dormans off Rock Auto for something like $216 shipped to my door.
Im all for going with OEM replacement when necessary or feasible, but something are just dumb to overpay on.
I have a 2005 Limited V8, with a passenger side manifold leak. Here are the OEM parts I bought.
17140-50060 Exhaust manifold (1)
17173-50030 Manifold gasket (1)
17167-50180 Manifold cover (1)
90080-17187 Exhaust manifold nuts (8)
90080-12008 Exhaust manifold studs (8)
90080-11589 Manifold cover bolts (4)
17376-50010 Air pipe gasket (1)
90178-A0023 Air pipe nut (2)
89467-71020 Oxygen sensor (1)
Now, waiting for good weather...
17140-50060 Exhaust manifold (1)
17173-50030 Manifold gasket (1)
17167-50180 Manifold cover (1)
90080-17187 Exhaust manifold nuts (8)
90080-12008 Exhaust manifold studs (8)
90080-11589 Manifold cover bolts (4)
17376-50010 Air pipe gasket (1)
90178-A0023 Air pipe nut (2)
89467-71020 Oxygen sensor (1)
Now, waiting for good weather...
So how much did all those parts cost? Everything squared away, ticking gone?
Just got this problem myself, hopefully I don’t have to bend over too badly! Curious about whether warranty would still be available for sub-80k mile V8s...
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