Valve adjustment?

rdgt4r

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I went to toyota to see what kind of servicing i need for my mileage im at 130k.

and he said i need my valves adjusted? so what do you guys think? I dont hear any "clacking" from the engine suggestion a valve check. any help would be great. thanks.
 
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As far as I know, mine have never been done. I have 208,000 miles. I did look in my 4Runner service manual , though. It shows to check and adjust every 30,000 miles. However, this is quite complicated. May do mine soon and post about it, let you guys know how dificult it turned out to be. My gas mileage is dropping off lately. Couldn't hurt! Certainly would help my "volumetric efficiency".
 
my pass side is making noise, but it wont hurt anything besides you bank account, i bet this job is a few grand, to get the right shims between the cam and the valves
 
really its not hard to do, just time consuming. If you are mechanically inclined you can pull the valve covers and check the clearances yourself w/ out too much trouble. Changing the shims themselves requires a bit more work. you can get a tool either off of ebay, online tool store, or a tool truck. if you only need to do a couple this would be the way to go. If you need to do all of the valves, then i prefer to pull the cams. The good news is that you won't have to do all of the valves unless you have just rebuilt the heads, or need to.

but for the original poster, if it isn't noisy or you don't have an oil leak from the valve covers anywhere, i wouldn't actually worry about it.
 
Stick Figure said:
really its not hard to do, just time consuming. If you are mechanically inclined you can pull the valve covers and check the clearances yourself w/ out too much trouble. Changing the shims themselves requires a bit more work. you can get a tool either off of ebay, online tool store, or a tool truck. if you only need to do a couple this would be the way to go. If you need to do all of the valves, then i prefer to pull the cams. The good news is that you won't have to do all of the valves unless you have just rebuilt the heads, or need to.

but for the original poster, if it isn't noisy or you don't have an oil leak from the valve covers anywhere, i wouldn't actually worry about it.
When you say you are pulling all the cams, are you using compressed air to hold up the valves? Or do you just leave your valve springs in place?
 
shawnstcyr said:
When you say you are pulling all the cams, are you using compressed air to hold up the valves? Or do you just leave your valve springs in place?

You leave your Valve Springs in place, you're only replacing the valve shims. The buckets stay in place! One thing to add to Stick Figure's comment was, before you remove the cam's make sure you have ALL of your measurements and your correlating new shim measurements in order and obviously your new shims (proper size) before you remove the cams. It will save you a lot of time. Chances are likely you will never need to do all of them, just a couple.
 
Victor said:
You leave your Valve Springs in place, you're only replacing the valve shims. The buckets stay in place! One thing to add to Stick Figure's comment was, before you remove the cam's make sure you have ALL of your measurements and your correlating new shim measurements in order and obviously your new shims (proper size) before you remove the cams. It will save you a lot of time. Chances are likely you will never need to do all of them, just a couple.
At my current mileage I may opt to go ahead and replace the valve seals, or just have the heads worked. I have 208,000 miles. That's why I was asking about the compressed air.
 
shawnstcyr said:
At my current mileage I may opt to go ahead and replace the valve seals, or just have the heads worked. I have 208,000 miles. That's why I was asking about the compressed air.

I just depends how far you want to go, does it burn oil? You can do the valve stem seals with the head on but you need to be sure and certain that the engine wont turn over. The compressed air can still bump the engine over, if that happens start fishing or pull the head off.

My suggestion, is place whichever piston at TDC and prior to putting it at TDC place a rope in there. That way, there's a less likelyhood of something that can bump the engine over.

While you're there, Timing Belt, Water Pump, Thermostat, 2 Camshaft Seals, 1 Crank seal and the engine gasket kit.
 
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No oil consumption or leaks of any kind. We're talking Toyota quality. Thanks for the advise. Been mechanicing for 17 yrs now. Like to keep ahead of things. I'm installing a supercharger and injector kit this year. May do a top end overhaul just for peace of mind.
 
i wouldn't do the valve stem seals unless you had to. Its great to do maintenance, but that is a bit beyond necessary.


and yes Victor is right make sure you get all of your measurements before you do any cam removal. Really though if you find all of your shims are out of adjustment, then chances are you have bigger problems, or have just rebuilt the heads.
 
i wouldn't do the valve stem seals unless you had to. Its great to do maintenance, but that is a bit beyond necessary.


and yes Victor is right make sure you get all of your measurements before you do any cam removal. Really though if you find all of your shims are out of adjustment, then chances are you have bigger problems, or have just rebuilt the heads.
 
When do you change a timing belt, mine has 200k. Seems like a big job? I'm pulling the head, Does anybody have any pointers before I pull out the cam shafts? I've never done it before and I do not have a manual. I'm just going to wing it.
 
MADMARTICUS said:
When do you change a timing belt, mine has 200k. Seems like a big job? I'm pulling the head, Does anybody have any pointers before I pull out the cam shafts? I've never done it before and I do not have a manual. I'm just going to wing it.
I read somewhere that there is a 6mm service bolt that needs to be installed in one cam on each head before releasing belt tension. I wouldn't plunge in without a service manual. Anyone else done this? Chime in.
 
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I just had a TB/WP change at 138k and the dealer never said a word about the valves and you know if a dealer has a chance to hit somebody up with a fix they almost always make the suggestion but my truck passed Toyota's inspection with flying colors and with no oil leaks I guess it wasn't something that was needed plus my engine still runs quite smooth and quiet.
 
I'm taking out the head because I have a sparkplug that blew out with the threads. I thought I should change the belt but It looks rediculous.
 
Toyotas are actually really easy to work on, BUT you can't be scared to take some stuff apart. If its your first time doing anything like this, step one is to have a camera ready, and take lots of pictures of the tear down so you know where everything goes. Get a box of zip locks and a sharpie and label bolts... and yes finally a service manual is pretty essential. Even if you know what your doing you will still want the torque specs for things. cheapest way to get this is just to jump on the TIS site and download or print the instructions for the job you are doing. (autozone site might have it as well, but for $10 i would go to the toyota site) But if you plan to do a lot to the truck in the future, then an actual hard copy of the service manual would be a good investment.
 

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