very shaky ride...help please!!!

[beliy25]

Hi all,i have a 2006 v8 sport with 105k....

last december all 4 shocks and springs have been changed to 5100s and moogs

4 month ago all 4 rotors ,2 front calipers and pads all around have been changed to oem .

the front is lifted all the way billsteins allow and rear is lifted 1.5" daystar spacers.


HERE COMES THE PROBLEM

i read through the forum and it doesnt fall into DEATH WOBBLE CATEGORY.

I DONT HAVE SHAKING TO THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN ON SPEEDS ABOVE 45 AND BRAKING.

WHAT I HAVE IS THE SAME EXACT FEELING WHEN MY SHOCKS AND SPRINGS WERE StOCK AND SHOT.I HIT A POT HOLE AND THE SOUND IS NOT HOW IT SHOULD BE(big bang).IF THE ROAD IS CURVED A LITTLE AND THERE IS A POT HOLE ,I AM ALL OVER THE ROAD IF I HIT IT WITH ONE WHEEL OR BOTH.

MY MECHANIC LIFTED THE TRUCK AND THERE IS NOTHING THAT SEEMS TO BE LOOSE OR BROKEN .

is there anywhere i should specifically look into?or just change the whole front end(which will cost me a fortune and i dont have it lol)or could it be that the springs are shot again?

Thank you all for taking a time to read all this and possibly suggest my further actions....

 

[Thumbie]

So it's only when you drive slower than 45 and not braking...hmmm.

Might sound stupid but have you had a recent alignment and tire balance done?

Bad bushing somewhere?

 

[beliy25]

So it's only when you drive slower than 45 and not braking...hmmm.

Might sound stupid but have you had a recent alignment and tire balance done?

Bad bushing somewhere?

if the road is curved and i drive 10 mphs(any speed) it still feels like i am all over the road.the steering wheel does not feel loose.

allignment was done 2 month after i changed shocks and springs.

 

[Lolrax]

What about a wheel balance?

 

[beliy25]

What about a wheel balance?

if i would have bad wheel balance i would feel vibration while on the move.but i has been done no so long ago as well...

 

[tom5191]

Check out ball joints, control arm bushings, and tie rod ends. The bang is most l likely either the ball joints or control arm bushings, and the bump steer is most likely the tie rod ends.

Edit: if your lca bushings are bad, just replace the entire control arm, IMO. They have built in lower ball joints so the new control arm will have the control arm, bushing, ball joint all in one.

One bad thing about doing the LCA is in rust prone areas (like PA) the lower control arm bolts/alignment cams get seized and have to be cut or torched out. It's not fun. I just did drive and passenger side on mine. It was an interesting experience.

 

[beliy25]

Check out ball joints, control arm bushings, and tie rod ends. The bang is most l likely either the ball joints or control arm bushings, and the bump steer is most likely the tie rod ends.

i am gong to a mechanic tommorow most likely,we will see whats there...

how much money am i looking at to change all the stuff you just mentioned?AT least an idea of the amount would be helpful .....

 

[tom5191]

Inner and out tie rods (both sides) $76.26 shipped (Check local auto stores, they probably have them too, and you can save on shipping. Moog is the ones I got)

Lower control arms (built in ball joints) (Beck/arnley) and alignment cams (Moog) (both sides) $ 376.88 shipped.

upper ball joints, no idea. I got new ball joints when I went to Light Racing upper control arms with my lift.

Parts are from rockauto.com

I did the work myself, so I only have to pay parts. Being my first time doing it, it took me about 6 hours per side to cut the control arms out cause mine were seized. Some members have claimed they were able to cut the arms out in a matter of minutes, my actual cutting time was about 1 1/2 hours with a cut off wheel. (Sawzall didn't have to power to do it).

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Make sure the shocks are good, there's been few members who had the top bushings incorrectly installed.

 

[CXS]

Good ideas here. Something's not right for certain.

Another thought - Do you still have the stock UCA? My experience was that mine couldn't be aligned close enough to spec with the stock ones. I experienced understeer/oversteer (not sure which is right) until I added aftermarket UCA's which allowed proper alignment.

While UCA's can make a big difference I don't think this is your main problem.

 

[beliy25]

Make sure the shocks are good, there's been few members who had the top bushings incorrectly installed.

how to know if they are installed right or wrong?i can take pictures tomorrow and post them here so you all could maybe see if they are right or wrong....

after i installed new shocks and springs,it was improved very very well comparing to the old ones,and recently(within past 3-4 months) everything i have described started happening and i am not sure if its getting worse everyday or not but i dont like the way it is lol....

Thank you
Ilya

 

[beliy25]

Good ideas here. Something's not right for certain.

Another thought - Do you still have the stock UCA? My experience was that mine couldn't be aligned close enough to spec with the stock ones. I experienced understeer/oversteer (not sure which is right) until I added aftermarket UCA's which allowed proper alignment.

While UCA's can make a big difference I don't think this is your main problem.

yes everything is stock except for shocks ,springs new brake lines hoses calipers and rotors......

 

[beliy25]

Inner and out tie rods (both sides) $76.26 shipped (Check local auto stores, they probably have them too, and you can save on shipping. Moog is the ones I got)

Lower control arms (built in ball joints) (Beck/arnley) and alignment cams (Moog) (both sides) $ 376.88 shipped.

upper ball joints, no idea. I got new ball joints when I went to Light Racing upper control arms with my lift.

Parts are from rockauto.com

I did the work myself, so I only have to pay parts. Being my first time doing it, it took me about 6 hours per side to cut the control arms out cause mine were seized. Some members have claimed they were able to cut the arms out in a matter of minutes, my actual cutting time was about 1 1/2 hours with a cut off wheel. (Sawzall didn't have to power to do it).

I appreciate you taking your time and writing all this.unfortunately i wont do it myself,i dont have all proper tools and no garage ......but we will see how much will my mechanic charges me for labor and then ill think about getting it done myself.


what about the control arms from ebay,there was a thread with a lot of comments on it and some people recommended it but some didnt,not sure why though....

thank you
Ilya

 

[beliy25]

Inner and out tie rods (both sides) $76.26 shipped (Check local auto stores, they probably have them too, and you can save on shipping. Moog is the ones I got)

Lower control arms (built in ball joints) (Beck/arnley) and alignment cams (Moog) (both sides) $ 376.88 shipped.

upper ball joints, no idea. I got new ball joints when I went to Light Racing upper control arms with my lift.

Parts are from rockauto.com

I did the work myself, so I only have to pay parts. Being my first time doing it, it took me about 6 hours per side to cut the control arms out cause mine were seized. Some members have claimed they were able to cut the arms out in a matter of minutes, my actual cutting time was about 1 1/2 hours with a cut off wheel. (Sawzall didn't have to power to do it).

cant find these ,maybe i am looking somewhere else ,but found everything including upper ball joints and total came out to 425$.
not purchasing anything yet ,ill do so after ill see the mechanic.

 

[tom5191]

Can you link the control arms you're talking about? They probably just don't trust the reliability of the bushing/ball joints since it's a cheap unknown product. They can be really hit or miss.

Here's the links to the parts I bought.
Lower control arms with ball joints (Beck/Arnley):
More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 1026426

More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 1026427

Inner tie rods (Moog):
More Information for MOOG EV80379

Outer tie rods (Moog):
More Information for MOOG ES80378

Alignment cams (moog):
Won't let me link the cams, but in suspension it's under caster/camers cam bolt kit

 

[beliy25]

Can you link the control arms you're talking about? They probably just don't trust the reliability of the bushing/ball joints since it's a cheap unknown product. They can be really hit or miss.

Here's the links to the parts I bought.
Lower control arms with ball joints (Beck/Arnley):
More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 1026426

More Information for BECK/ARNLEY 1026427

Inner tie rods (Moog):
More Information for MOOG EV80379

Outer tie rods (Moog):
More Information for MOOG ES80378

Alignment cams (moog):
Won't let me link the cams, but in suspension it's under caster/camers cam bolt kit

yes,these are all the same i put in cart

and these are the upper ones i include in the cart as well.
MOOG K500018


alignment cams i didnt add cuz i wasnt sure its them but now i will since i looked at the same thing you mentioned...

 

[DisguisedRope]

what about the control arms from ebay,there was a thread with a lot of comments on it and some people recommended it but some didnt,not sure why though....
Ilya

The thread is here. Lots of info in there, but the concensus seemed to be that the uniball UCAs are fine. People have run them hard for thousands of miles with no failures. Only failure was the installers fault who put them in backwards/upside down/wrong sides of truck. And even then the arms didn't fail, the lower grade bolt did. They have since been supplied with the correct grade hardware. I just installed these on my truck last week and they seem fine so far.

 

[beliy25]

The thread is here. Lots of info in there, but the concensus seemed to be that the uniball UCAs are fine. People have run them hard for thousands of miles with no failures. Only failure was the installers fault who put them in backwards/upside down/wrong sides of truck. And even then the arms didn't fail, the lower grade bolt did. They have since been supplied with the correct grade hardware. I just installed these on my truck last week and they seem fine so far.

did it give you any lift?

would you recommend buying them in my case?i am thinking on buying and changing all the items in 2 previous comments........

 

[DisguisedRope]

did it give you any lift?

would you recommend buying them in my case?i am thinking on buying and changing all the items in 2 previous comments........

It does not give you any lift. They are just upper control arms. It's good if you are at/near 3" of lift so you can get your alignment back to factory spec. The stock UCAs don't allow for enough caster at those lift heights.

 

[truckhigh]

get a new mechanic if he can't find the problem. i started to replace parts just because and oem is much better quality. my moogs inner and outer tie rods are still good. they are rusted now and look worse then the 80k old ones.

Find the bad part and replace accordingly. i don't think anybody said wheel bearings. check those too. those go bad before bushings, bj's and tie rods unless rust or boot problems.