"Voltage Booster" for 31M AGM Battery

Maybe all is needed is a fuse cover mod. Should not be difficult.
Will check how much room between fuse cover and hood... Checked, plenty of room
Electrical speaking should work otherwise in a 4th gen right?
 
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[MENTION=412480]CarlosV[/MENTION] - I have a couple HKB Electronics 'voltage booster' fuses on their way from Australia. Bought them before I knew about the ALVB. I'm planning on using the ALVB today when it comes in the mail. So...I'll have two leftover fuses soon that should work for a 4th Gen. if you're interested. Bought them on June 22, so any day now they should be here.
 
[MENTION=412480]CarlosV[/MENTION] - I have a couple HKB Electronics 'voltage booster' fuses on their way from Australia. Bought them before I knew about the ALVB. I'm planning on using the ALVB today when it comes in the mail. So...I'll have two leftover fuses soon that should work for a 4th Gen. if you're interested. Bought them on June 22, so any day now they should be here.

Sent you pm.
Thanks FoRunnuh
 
It came today, and I installed it. Easy.

One thing I noticed, is that the fuse holder on the ALVB is for an ATO fuse. I didn't like how the micro fuse that is the stock fuse size didn't fit properly so I stuck a 7.5 ATO fuse in (had it for one of my previous rigs) and it fit like a glove. 20200714_145545.jpg
 

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Keep the mini 7.5 A fuse in the car just in case since ATO wont fit in place of original ALT-S Mini Fuse.
 
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I tend to throw it on the charger every two weeks or so. I tend to notice when it doesn't have the same cranking pep as normal. It is driven daily. Not as bad now that it is warmer.
I used to do 1000 miles a week. Now it's more like 10. Haven't had to pull out the charger for mine once in the last 4 months of non-travel, and it's an AGM also.
 
Just pulled the trigger on this for my 2019 4Runner OR. I currently run a Group 34 Odyssey and plan on upgrading to a Group 27F Northstar shortly to power a fridge and other accessories.. This should serve me well as I recently moved and don't have access to a power plug where I park and must physically bring the battery up (3 flight of stairs) for it to be connected to the AC charger. Have a bunch of assorted ATO and ATC fuses handy and knowing that I could switch thing off and into two different modes of boosted charge was what sold me on it compared to other significantly cheaper options out there.
 
Are most of ya'll just adding the standard 7.5A fuse to the Arclight unit? I've seen a few folks add a 10A fuse and a few pages back there was a suggestion of adding a much smaller fuse (like a 2 or 2.5 A), to lower the risk in case of a fire resulting from an accident. Yet others who go for the cheaper GM option don't mount a fuse at all. Just trying to understand the pros and cons of a smaller or larger fuse as they relate to safety in this specific use case.
 
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Just installed the Arclight VB. Voltage reading at the battery terminal (5 minutes into engine start) was 13.8 with a peak of 13.9 and a low of 13.7. Installed it, and with boost mode the voltage was 14.4 and within the 14.2 and 14.5 range. Haven't tried the over boost mode but I feel that will come in handy in the Chicago winter ..
 
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I have had the arclight installed for 2 years now and have national Luna with two odyssey 34R 1500 batteries with shore power plug. I never use my shore power setup and I have the thing set in the middle.
 
Are most of ya'll just adding the standard 7.5A fuse to the Arclight unit? I've seen a few folks add a 10A fuse and a few pages back there was a suggestion of adding a much smaller fuse (like a 2 or 2.5 A), to lower the risk in case of a fire resulting from an accident. Yet others who go for the cheaper GM option don't mount a fuse at all. Just trying to understand the pros and cons of a smaller or larger fuse as they relate to safety in this specific use case.

I went ahead and used the 7.5A fuse. I don't really see the need in bumping up to the 10A honestly. Everything has worked according to how it should and I haven't had any issues. Charging at mid 14's on "Boost" mode so the battery seems to be getting what it needs (Odyssey 34-1500) If I had an issue of blowing 7.5A fuses I may bump it up to a 10A but not any higher than that!
 
I don't think it will ever blow a fuse in normal usage given what the thing does, but it was interesting to see that few were putting 10A fuse in there. Even with a 2A fuse one would be fine in there from what I've read. I threw on the factory fuse as I didn't have anything below that. I think I'll keep it that way.
 
For those running the Arc Light or another VB booster with an Odyssey Group 34, what do you generally see as your resting voltage? I've driven my vehicle for about 40 minutes a day on average since I installed mine at boost mode and took a reading tonight (after about 2.5 hrs of shutting the engine off) and it read 12.71 volts at the terminal. I know AGM batteries are generally considered fully charged above 12.7 V but Odyssey is 100% SOC at 12.84 so was wondering if folks running these are constantly hitting that number without AC charging.
 
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anyone know when arclight will have the VB back in stock? would like to order one instead of the GM diode. Thanks.
 
I just installed the arclight VB and noticed that in boost mode I was only getting about 13.7-13.8 volts and sometimes dropping down to 13.4-13.5. So I just tried it in over-boost and it started up at around 14.7, but after a few minutes of driving, dropped down to around 13.7 again. I was using the GM diode for a while before getting this and it was hanging around 13.7-13.8 with occasional drop to around 13.4-13.5, so thought I could get a little more from the arclight VB. I have an Odyssey AGM (34R-PC1500T) and measuring the voltage through my Kenwood headunit w/ maestro RR (maybe this is the problem?). Is there something wrong with the VB? Or could it be my alternator? Truck has around 103K miles.
 

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