"Voltage Booster" for 31M AGM Battery

[4runnin4mylife]

I just installed the arclight VB and noticed that in boost mode I was only getting about 13.7-13.8 volts and sometimes dropping down to 13.4-13.5. So I just tried it in over-boost and it started up at around 14.7, but after a few minutes of driving, dropped down to around 13.7 again. I was using the GM diode for a while before getting this and it was hanging around 13.7-13.8 with occasional drop to around 13.4-13.5, so thought I could get a little more from the arclight VB. I have an Odyssey AGM (34R-PC1500T) and measuring the voltage through my Kenwood headunit w/ maestro RR (maybe this is the problem?). Is there something wrong with the VB? Or could it be my alternator? Truck has around 103K miles.

I installed the Arclight VB in my 4runner and I have the same battery. I have mine set on "Boost". At initial start I get 14.7 to 14.8 and it settles at 14.3-14.4. I am getting my reading from my sPOD connected straight to my battery. I would say before you do anything try to actually get a voltmeter and measure directly off the battery while running and see what you get. I think it may be your Kenwood head unit that you are using to gauge your voltage. Just my 2 cents.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[Chilow]

According to my voltage readout from one of those cigarette plug adapters that also charges your phone, my initial readout when I first start the vehicle is about 14.7 and drops down to around 13.5 when I’ve been driving around for a bit. After it’s been sitting for a couple hours, resting voltage shows 12.4 - 12.8 usually. I have the Arclight set to overboost. I also have a Scanguage II and the voltage readings seem spot on with the cigarette adapter.

 

[stooges459]

Thanks guys for the feedback. I did a short test at the battery terminals w/ a multimeter and it turns out the reading from the headunit is off by -0.4. So I guess the VB is working as expected.

 

[Chilow]

I just got an ARB fridge. Any concerns with the increased voltage when powering the fridge?

 

[jhguth]

I just got an ARB fridge. Any concerns with the increased voltage when powering the fridge?

none

the boost is just making the voltage comparable to other vehicles (14+)

Also, most fridges can run on either 12V or 24V systems

 

[bring_it_on]

Took a 600 mile road trip with the Arclight VB and the voltage pretty much stayed within the 13.9 - 14.5 range. After the trip back, I parked the car overnight and checked the voltage in the morning and it was 12.85 for the Odyssey battery which is 100% SOC as per the OEM. So far it seems to work as planned. Did put it into over boost to test voltage at the terminals and it took it as high as 14.9 volts at idle which is getting close to that 15 volt limit on the AGM battery. I guess this will come handy in the Chicago winters.

 

[Sky]

I've been using the simple GM diode/fuse in my 19. Only use it when towing my camper- the wiring is way undersized in the 4R back to the trailer socket. Without the diode I only get 1-2A into a 105AH AGM grp31 on the camper tongue.
With the diode I get 3-4A.
Even the higher voltage/higher current with the diode you are looking at 24+ hours of driving to bring the battery up fully up from almost dead.

I need to upgrade the wiring but I'm not sure the alternator can handle a lot more into the camper battery with the ARB running, multiple phones charging, sometimes a laptop plugged into the invertor etc..

 

[<<<<]

2 month update on my Arclight booster: My Northstar 3 year old is reading 12.7 v at terminal 24 hours after driving. Voltage boost when starting 14.3 v which levels off at 13.7 in 5 minutes of driving. It works perfect at "boost" setting. Im hopping to get 2 more years out of my AGM battery by fully charging it. If anything changes I'll post under this tread.

 

[Drewbird]

I'm just learning about this and want to say thanks to everyone who has provided input and to LOLSNOW for offering this alternative.

I still have OEM battery/alternator and after reaching out to Odyssey I was directed to this thread. I intend to pair the VB switch with a new Odyssey 34R-PC1500T battery. I just want to be ready for winter as I do a lot of camping/hiking during that time. My earlier research led me to rigtec's dc power 270xp and re-wiring modification which I really liked but at the moment that is not in the cards for me with being in need of winter tires etc.

Is anyone out there running the dc power 270 amp, rigtec's wiring mod, along with LOLSNOWs VB booster, or is that absolutely unnecessary? I obviously have limited understanding and my questions will reflect that.

I will say however that I'm loving the journey. Thanks again.

 

[Chilow]

If the battery needs to be jump started or if you're helping jump start somebody else's battery, does the voltage booster need to be removed or have the settings changed?

 

[Drewbird]

Boost is now installed

Wow! That was fast. I put my Arclight order in on the same day as my last post, on Tuesday 9/1. I got the shipping notification in later that night. Package was at my door on Thursday 9/3. Ordered my Odyssey battery Friday 9/4, that arrived today and is now installed w/ the booster. I'm running smooth and really liking it. My voltage meter should be here tomorrow and I'll take a look at the numbers.

Thanks so much LOLSNOW, I'm very stoked about this.

Last quick question, to LOLSNOW and those of you who have yours already are you running in the Boost or Overboost? I have stock alternator and just put it to boost to start out.

 

[comtn4x4]

Wow! That was fast. I put my Arclight order in on the same day as my last post, on Tuesday 9/1. I got the shipping notification in later that night. Package was at my door on Thursday 9/3. Ordered my Odyssey battery Friday 9/4, that arrived today and is now installed w/ the booster. I'm running smooth and really liking it. My voltage meter should be here tomorrow and I'll take a look at the numbers.

Thanks so much LOLSNOW, I'm very stoked about this.

Last quick question, to LOLSNOW and those of you who have yours already are you running in the Boost or Overboost? I have stock alternator and just put it to boost to start out.

I think you're ok on regular boost unless it's really cold or you have drawn down your battery to the extreme and need some extra boost to get it back. I usually set it to overboost if it's really cold here, like below zero for an extended period of I'm in the mountains.
I've had mine installed for at least 2 years and I run a single NORTHSTAR 27F NSB-AGM27F.

 

[JONBOY345]

[MENTION=412480]CarlosV[/MENTION] - I have a couple HKB Electronics 'voltage booster' fuses on their way from Australia. Bought them before I knew about the ALVB. I'm planning on using the ALVB today when it comes in the mail. So...I'll have two leftover fuses soon that should work for a 4th Gen. if you're interested. Bought them on June 22, so any day now they should be here.

Any chance you still have an extra?

 

[JONBOY345]

Also, I have an ArcLight VB I bought that I thought I could modify to work in my 4th gen, but I decided against it. The ford diode I'm running seems to work just fine for me.

Would love if ArcLight would release a version for the 4th gens.

That said, I'll be willing to sell someone my VB for 70 shipped to the lower 48. Glad to ship to AK, HI but may need to up the shipping cost as a result.

 

[JONBOY345]

I've been using the simple GM diode/fuse in my 19. Only use it when towing my camper- the wiring is way undersized in the 4R back to the trailer socket. Without the diode I only get 1-2A into a 105AH AGM grp31 on the camper tongue.
With the diode I get 3-4A.
Even the higher voltage/higher current with the diode you are looking at 24+ hours of driving to bring the battery up fully up from almost dead.

I need to upgrade the wiring but I'm not sure the alternator can handle a lot more into the camper battery with the ARB running, multiple phones charging, sometimes a laptop plugged into the invertor etc..

Checkout DC Power: DC Power Inc. - High Output Alternators!

Rob Dahm recently toured their production facility, and it was seriously impressive: My NEW Alternator is a piece of art. I tour DC Power. - YouTube

 

[keph13]

That said, I'll be willing to sell someone my VB for 70 shipped to the lower 48. Glad to ship to AK, HI but may need to up the shipping cost as a result.

I'll PM you!

 

[Anand]

I've been using the simple GM diode/fuse in my 19. Only use it when towing my camper- the wiring is way undersized in the 4R back to the trailer socket. Without the diode I only get 1-2A into a 105AH AGM grp31 on the camper tongue.
With the diode I get 3-4A.
Even the higher voltage/higher current with the diode you are looking at 24+ hours of driving to bring the battery up fully up from almost dead.

I need to upgrade the wiring but I'm not sure the alternator can handle a lot more into the camper battery with the ARB running, multiple phones charging, sometimes a laptop plugged into the invertor etc..

The diode (or the ARCLED voltage booster) doesn't change charging amperage, only voltage; thus it shouldn't have any effect on the amperage being sent to the trailer harness (it will send a higher voltage, as with all other electronics in the truck).

In regards to the alternator, you're well shy of using all the amperage it has to offer. ARB fridge draw is ~ 2-4A (not including the momentary starting draw), 3 phones charging at USB-PD (27w each, x3 is 81w, give the charger 85% efficiency, at 14v system voltage) is 6.8A, 100w laptop charger(again, 85% efficiency on the inverter) is 8.4A. Allow for another 15A to run vehicle lighting, 20A for fans, another 20A for all the ECU/BCM bits, and another 10 for the stereo and you're at a grand total of 84A. The stock alternator should be making that at idle.

There are plenty of us running dual batteries with the factory alternator (I feel safe in saying that the vast majority of dual battery setups fall into this category), with substantially greater electrical draws on the system that you're looking at; and have no issues at all.

The only time I've had the truck not be able to (immediately) keep up voltage is while winching, which is to be expected.

 

[Sky]

The diode (or the ARCLED voltage booster) doesn't change charging amperage, only voltage; thus it shouldn't have any effect on the amperage being sent to the trailer harness (it will send a higher voltage, as with all other electronics in the truck).

In regards to the alternator, you're well shy of using all the amperage it has to offer. ARB fridge draw is ~ 2-4A (not including the momentary starting draw), 3 phones charging at USB-PD (27w each, x3 is 81w, give the charger 85% efficiency, at 14v system voltage) is 6.8A, 100w laptop charger(again, 85% efficiency on the inverter) is 8.4A. Allow for another 15A to run vehicle lighting, 20A for fans, another 20A for all the ECU/BCM bits, and another 10 for the stereo and you're at a grand total of 84A. The stock alternator should be making that at idle.

There are plenty of us running dual batteries with the factory alternator (I feel safe in saying that the vast majority of dual battery setups fall into this category), with substantially greater electrical draws on the system that you're looking at; and have no issues at all.

The only time I've had the truck not be able to (immediately) keep up voltage is while winching, which is to be expected.

Raising the charge voltage does indeed increase the current into the trailer battery.

Toyota uses way undersized wire to the 7 way 12v connection, as they do to the 12V sockets. Has nothing to do with alternator capacity. Could have 500A but if the feed wire to the load is too small it doesn't matter.

When I get time, I am going to replace the very small wire to the 7 way trailer socket charge pin.
I've already added 12V sockets using 10AWG as opposed to the very small, probably 18-20AWG factory wire.

 

[FoRunnuh]

Any chance you still have an extra?

Sorry, both were sold off.

 

[LRT]

Arclight VB Available

I have a brand new Arclight VB. I bought it before I took possession of my ‘20 only to find out they changed the fuse box.

Willing to sell for what I bought it for plus shipping. Just FYI, I’m in Hawaii, but the booster is small and light so I don’t think it’ll be too much.

If not, I’ll just sell it locally which is probably easier for me.

Let me know if anyone is interested and I’ll let you know price. Provide me your zip code.

Thanks