VSC/TRAC OFF Lights

glutengoblin

New member
I have an '03 SR5 4x4--the CEL, VSC and TRAC OFF lights were all illuminated last week. I've replaced the bank 1, sensor 2 O2 sensor and after a few drive cycles have successfully cleared the P0037 CEL.

What is causing the VSC/TRAC off lights to still be illuminated? So far I've read that these are all possible causes:

-loose gas cap
-unrelated CEL (I've address through 02 sensor replacement)
-Plugging in an Autozone OBII code scanner
-cold starts

To clear the VSC/TRAC OFF lights, is step one disconnecting the battery terminals? If that does not work, is step two doing a zero point calibration? Before I start throwing money at sensors that do not need to be replaced, I want to know what to try first...
 
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Try the zero point calibration. No special tools needed. Just a pair of wires. My VSC TRAC and VSC OFF lights came on after a tire shop used a scanner to try and debug my TPMS.

Instructions are here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attac...-calibration-br005-03_vsc-light-dtc-c1203.pdf

My simplified instructions:


  1. If the vehicle is equipped with A/T, ensure that the shift lever is in the “P” range and the parking brake is applied. If the vehicle is equipped with a M/T, ensure that the parking brake is applied.
  2. Use a pair of wires, put one in 4 and other in 14, make sure other end is not touching each other
4runner.png
  1. Turn the ignition switch ON.
  2. Repeat a cycle of closed and open between terminals Ts and CG 4 times or more within 8 seconds
  3. Verify that the VSC indicator light is lit indicating the recorded zero point is erased.
  4. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  5. Be sure the terminals Ts and CG are not touching each other.
  6. Turn the ignition switch ON.
  7. Check that the VSC warning light goes off about 15 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.
  8. After ensuring that the VSC warning light remains OFF for 2 seconds, turn the ignition switch OFF.
  9. Connect terminals Ts and CG.
  10. Turn the ignition switch ON.
  11. After turning the ignition switch ON, check that the VSC warning light is lit for about 4 seconds and then starts quick blinking at 0.13 second intervals.
  12. After ensuring the blinking of the VSC warning light for 2 seconds, turn the ignition switch OFF.
  13. Remove the wires from terminals Ts and CG.
  14. Drive the vehicle for at least 5 minutes to confirm Zero Point Calibration is complete.
 

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tire shop scanner/computer triggers my tpms light

I had the local mom&pop tire shop replace the TPMS system on my 04 SR5. Now every time I go to the shop the tpms light sensor comes on, once the VSC TRAC light also triggered. They have tried but failed to fix the problem. I took it to another shop to get the codes cleared but didn't know the cause until today.....when I went to the local shop to chat and then my tpms light was on when I left. They clearly don't know what they need to do. Any suggestions on how to clear the miscommunication between my new sensors and the shop's scanner? Thanks.
 
I followed the procedure that 46runner posted and it cleared both my "VSC TRAC" and "VSC OFF" lights. They had been on for a couple of months. Thank you!!!!!
 
Try the zero point calibration. No special tools needed. Just a pair of wires. My VSC TRAC and VSC OFF lights came on after a tire shop used a scanner to try and debug my TPMS.

Instructions are here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attac...-calibration-br005-03_vsc-light-dtc-c1203.pdf

My simplified instructions:


  1. If the vehicle is equipped with A/T, ensure that the shift lever is in the “P” range and the parking brake is applied. If the vehicle is equipped with a M/T, ensure that the parking brake is applied.
  2. Use a pair of wires, put one in 4 and other in 14, make sure other end is not touching each other
View attachment 135453
  1. Turn the ignition switch ON.
  2. Repeat a cycle of closed and open between terminals Ts and CG 4 times or more within 8 seconds
  3. Verify that the VSC indicator light is lit indicating the recorded zero point is erased.
  4. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  5. Be sure the terminals Ts and CG are not touching each other.
  6. Turn the ignition switch ON.
  7. Check that the VSC warning light goes off about 15 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.
  8. After ensuring that the VSC warning light remains OFF for 2 seconds, turn the ignition switch OFF.
  9. Connect terminals Ts and CG.
  10. Turn the ignition switch ON.
  11. After turning the ignition switch ON, check that the VSC warning light is lit for about 4 seconds and then starts quick blinking at 0.13 second intervals.
  12. After ensuring the blinking of the VSC warning light for 2 seconds, turn the ignition switch OFF.
  13. Remove the wires from terminals Ts and CG.
  14. Drive the vehicle for at least 5 minutes to confirm Zero Point Calibration is complete.

I followed this procedure that 46runner posted and it cleared both my "VSC TRAC" and "VSC OFF" lights. They had been on for a couple of months. Thank you!!!!!
 
I had the local mom&pop tire shop replace the TPMS system on my 04 SR5. Now every time I go to the shop the tpms light sensor comes on, once the VSC TRAC light also triggered. They have tried but failed to fix the problem. I took it to another shop to get the codes cleared but didn't know the cause until today.....when I went to the local shop to chat and then my tpms light was on when I left. They clearly don't know what they need to do. Any suggestions on how to clear the miscommunication between my new sensors and the shop's scanner? Thanks.
I bypassed the tpms on my rig. I off road all the time, so I'm constantly airing up and down, and I've been checking my tires regularly since I got my driver's license half a life ago. I don't need some silly light and overpriced sensors to remind me. But that's just me
 
These 3 lights are all on for my 2004 SR5, 4x4 V6, 65,000 miles. I just bought it last Saturday. The dealer said they had fixed things before the sale, and showed me a list. One of the things on the list was a charcoal canister. The lights didn’t come on until today when I was going approx 60mph on the expressway. OB2 scanner at auto zone spit out the following codes in the pic. What could cause this? Gas cap for all of them?
3fb89508b8e4c78c106e15b0fb0bb6bc.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
These 3 lights are all on for my 2004 SR5, 4x4 V6, 65,000 miles. I just bought it last Saturday. The dealer said they had fixed things before the sale, and showed me a list. One of the things on the list was a charcoal canister. The lights didn’t come on until today when I was going approx 60mph on the expressway. OB2 scanner at auto zone spit out the following codes in the pic. What could cause this? Gas cap for all of them?
3fb89508b8e4c78c106e15b0fb0bb6bc.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Most of the time, yes it's just the gas cap, very likely never needed the new charcoal canister, best to get an OEM gas cap from a dealer should be less than $15 to $20, if not the gas cap then possible cracked or otherwise leaking rubber hose/s or the connections.
 
Not sure if this would be related or not. I just picked up an '07. The tpms light is on (I later tracked it down to the spare, gotta air it up tomorrow). Last Friday I got the CEL, VSC, and TRAC lights. When I got home, checked w/ my generic handheld scanner and it had P1442. I made sure the gas cap was tight and cleared it. The lights and same code came back 3 days later. Checked the gas cap again and cleared the code and lights. Today, they came back a 3rd time but now also code P1445. Could the tpms light being on all this time be a contributing factor? Or am I looking at an air pump issue and need to find a bypass kit? All 3 times the lights have come on has been cold starts which is why I'm leaning towards the air pump.
 
Most of the time, yes it's just the gas cap, very likely never needed the new charcoal canister, best to get an OEM gas cap from a dealer should be less than $15 to $20, if not the gas cap then possible cracked or otherwise leaking rubber hose/s or the connections.



I found what seemed like a loose connection on a solenoid that has been linked to the p0446 code. By loose I mean I was able to push it onto the solenoid and it clicked. I cleared it by disconnecting the battery and then drove around a bit. I also cleaned off my gas cap/lubed it up some, it was pretty dirty. If it comes back I might just replace the solenoid, seems stupid easy to replace, and the part isn’t too bad. Hopefully this helps.

This video shows the solenoid with what looked like a loose connection:

YouTube


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It may also be a break pedal sensor switch or whatever you call it....i have the same exact problem.When they light up,i put it on neutral,shut of the car and immediately start it back on and they disappear.
 
Try the zero point calibration. No special tools needed. Just a pair of wires. My VSC TRAC and VSC OFF lights came on after a tire shop used a scanner to try and debug my TPMS.

Instructions are here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attac...-calibration-br005-03_vsc-light-dtc-c1203.pdf

My simplified instructions:


  1. If the vehicle is equipped with A/T, ensure that the shift lever is in the “P” range and the parking brake is applied. If the vehicle is equipped with a M/T, ensure that the parking brake is applied.
  2. Use a pair of wires, put one in 4 and other in 14, make sure other end is not touching each other
View attachment 135453
  1. Turn the ignition switch ON.
  2. Repeat a cycle of closed and open between terminals Ts and CG 4 times or more within 8 seconds
  3. Verify that the VSC indicator light is lit indicating the recorded zero point is erased.
  4. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
  5. Be sure the terminals Ts and CG are not touching each other.
  6. Turn the ignition switch ON.
  7. Check that the VSC warning light goes off about 15 seconds after the ignition switch is turned ON.
  8. After ensuring that the VSC warning light remains OFF for 2 seconds, turn the ignition switch OFF.
  9. Connect terminals Ts and CG.
  10. Turn the ignition switch ON.
  11. After turning the ignition switch ON, check that the VSC warning light is lit for about 4 seconds and then starts quick blinking at 0.13 second intervals.
  12. After ensuring the blinking of the VSC warning light for 2 seconds, turn the ignition switch OFF.
  13. Remove the wires from terminals Ts and CG.
  14. Drive the vehicle for at least 5 minutes to confirm Zero Point Calibration is complete.

After you do 9 (connect wires) then 10 (turn ignition on) do you leave the wires connected then until 13 (remove wires) or at 9 do you just hold them while you do 10 then let go?
 
Over 10 years since this was posted, it has apparently fixed my issue. My commute tomorrow should be warning light free!
 
lights be gone...

I have done the gas cap, oem at that, throttle body cleaning, spark plug change out, seafoam, marvel mystery, evap smoke test and then I stumbled across the stop lamp switch assembly theory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=QX-KI5WTp2HfwExm&v=Vvnm57URCN4&feature=youtu.be

$46 at stealership's online store #84340-69025

This is an easy fix, I ran the car after, cycled through 4H and 4L, at first only the check engine light went away, and then they all went away.

If and when you try this removal is easy, replacing is easier by moving the brake pedal forward, please note that you are repositioning it where you prefer.
Mine went from spongy, which i didn't mind to stiff but responsive, the Akebono's really are the best.

The above repairs prior to this were routine maintenance over time not me chasing the dashboard lights, but yeah they were frustrating.

Consider this if you have exhausted most everything else besides catalytic, carbon canister, fuel pump and vac hoses.
 
lights be gone...

I have done the gas cap, oem at that, throttle body cleaning, spark plug change out, seafoam, marvel mystery, evap smoke test and then I stumbled across the stop lamp switch assembly theory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=QX-KI5WTp2HfwExm&v=Vvnm57URCN4&feature=youtu.be

$46 at stealership's online store #84340-69025

This is an easy fix, I ran the car after, cycled through 4H and 4L, at first only the check engine light went away, and then they all went away.

If and when you try this removal is easy, replacing is easier by moving the brake pedal forward, please note that you are repositioning it where you prefer.
Mine went from spongy, which i didn't mind to stiff but responsive, the Akebono's really are the best.

The above repairs prior to this were routine maintenance over time not me chasing the dashboard lights, but yeah they were frustrating.

Consider this if you have exhausted most everything else besides catalytic, carbon canister, fuel pump and vac hoses.
 
lights be gone...

I have done the gas cap, oem at that, throttle body cleaning, spark plug change out, seafoam, marvel mystery, evap smoke test and then I stumbled across the stop lamp switch assembly theory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=QX-KI5WTp2HfwExm&v=Vvnm57URCN4&feature=youtu.be

$46 at stealership's online store #84340-69025

This is an easy fix, I ran the car after, cycled through 4H and 4L, at first only the check engine light went away, and then they all went away.

If and when you try this removal is easy, replacing is easier by moving the brake pedal forward, please note that you are repositioning it where you prefer.
Mine went from spongy, which i didn't mind to stiff but responsive, the Akebono's really are the best.

The above repairs prior to this were routine maintenance over time not me chasing the dashboard lights, but yeah they were frustrating.

Consider this if you have exhausted most everything else besides catalytic, carbon canister, fuel pump and vac hoses.
 
lights be gone...

I have done the gas cap, oem at that, throttle body cleaning, spark plug change out, seafoam, marvel mystery, evap smoke test and then I stumbled across the stop lamp switch assembly theory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=QX-KI5WTp2HfwExm&v=Vvnm57URCN4&feature=youtu.be

$46 at stealership's online store #84340-69025

This is an easy fix, I ran the car after, cycled through 4H and 4L, at first only the check engine light went away, and then they all went away.

If and when you try this removal is easy, replacing is easier by moving the brake pedal forward, please note that you are repositioning it where you prefer.
Mine went from spongy, which i didn't mind to stiff but responsive, the Akebono's really are the best.

The above repairs prior to this were routine maintenance over time not me chasing the dashboard lights, but yeah they were frustrating.

Consider this if you have exhausted most everything else besides catalytic, carbon canister, fuel pump and vac hoses.
 

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