VSC warning light

Two really easy ways to check if it's the skid sensor - your ABS won't work and you won't be able to get the truck into 4WD at all. Otherwise, it's something else.
 
I'll take it in Monday but I need to drive it this weekend. Doesnt seem to be anything too serious. I think the VSC is just not functional with the little swerving indicator light staying on.

Iirc, if the light is on,that system is not working.
I.E. If airbag light is on and you get in a crash, the airbags will not deploy.

You could take it to local parts store and have them scan it for free- get the code and call Toyota parts with code and they might be able to narrow it down.

Of course you need to have a decent parts guy willing to put in a little effort!
This might get ya the answer before you hand over your wallet to the service department:thumb3:
 
Each mfg names and groups the modules differently. I'm familiar with GM and they often group BCM/TCM.. together.. All modern 2000+ cars I have owned allow for some type of diagnostic mode that will display codes/messages on the DIC driver information center, after performing some type of diagnostic sequence to bring up the display. IT comes in super handy. It's typically not in the owners manual but is in the service manual.

The 4runner is the first one I have owned that does not have this capability. It's a bit of a let down. Its also irritating that it won't tell you what tire is low... Every other car I have owned also lets you program the tire pressure sensors with no special tools. Toyota is just really outdated and lacking in this area. Just saying.

First off I was just teasing you. :)

Second, the way GM does their TPMS is both nice and annoying. Not everyone does the "GM Tire Dance" when they rotate tires, which means the tires may not be where the TMPS thinks it is. Nissan does theirs a bit interesting as well, particularly in how you can program the sensors. Why Toyota didn't decide a user friendly way to reprogram tires probably had to do with the fact that some of our models can store two sets of tires (don't know which ones, to be honest) and doing something like that while maintaining where each tire goes is probably not cost effective. Then again, as an owner it should be our responsibility to check the tires regularly, so in my opinion if you're checking one; might as well make sure the rest are okay as well.

That being said, Toyota may still have a simple way to check ABS codes, but I'm not at home right now so I can't access TIS to verify.
 
First off I was just teasing you. :)

Second, the way GM does their TPMS is both nice and annoying. Not everyone does the "GM Tire Dance" when they rotate tires, which means the tires may not be where the TMPS thinks it is. Nissan does theirs a bit interesting as well, particularly in how you can program the sensors. Why Toyota didn't decide a user friendly way to reprogram tires probably had to do with the fact that some of our models can store two sets of tires (don't know which ones, to be honest) and doing something like that while maintaining where each tire goes is probably not cost effective. Then again, as an owner it should be our responsibility to check the tires regularly, so in my opinion if you're checking one; might as well make sure the rest are okay as well.

That being said, Toyota may still have a simple way to check ABS codes, but I'm not at home right now so I can't access TIS to verify.
Don't worry I don't take this seriously at all.... I like Toyota, I just don't like working on them as much as domestics ;-) I don't work on cars for living... just for fun. Most people go to the dealer/shop when something needs attention and don't really care how the sausage gets made.
 
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You should try the zero point calibration and see what happens. Its very easy to do and just requires a wire. The most time consuming part is identifying the correct pins on the diagnostics port.

One thing that that might be different here is that this is a limited, right? So it is always in some form of 4wd?
 
You should try the zero point calibration and see what happens. Its very easy to do and just requires a wire. The most time consuming part is identifying the correct pins on the diagnostics port.

One thing that that might be different here is that this is a limited, right? So it is always in some form of 4wd?

Yes and yes. I've got a friend getting his auto tech certs and he's going to take my rig into class later in the week and put the techstream on it and see. Can't argue with free! I guess I'm pretty sure it is probably some sort of code triggered by the fact that my spedo is off 8% or so due to 34s and I was coming downhill about 80mph into a tight turn and I have sway bars removed. I'm guessing the VSC went into check and since the speed sensors and spedo didn't match it threw a code. I don't think I've made it work that hard at those speeds since going without swaybars up to 34s and I havend done a zero point calibration at all since then either. Could be something else. Going to wait and see what the techstream software codes are.
 
Yes and yes. I've got a friend getting his auto tech certs and he's going to take my rig into class later in the week and put the techstream on it and see. Can't argue with free! I guess I'm pretty sure it is probably some sort of code triggered by the fact that my spedo is off 8% or so due to 34s and I was coming downhill about 80mph into a tight turn and I have sway bars removed. I'm guessing the VSC went into check and since the speed sensors and spedo didn't match it threw a code. I don't think I've made it work that hard at those speeds since going without swaybars up to 34s and I havend done a zero point calibration at all since then either. Could be something else. Going to wait and see what the techstream software codes are.

Speedohealer v4 will fix that 8% issue. I doubt the 8% difference is causing the issue as the ABS system can't detect that.
 
Speedohealer v4 will fix that 8% issue. I doubt the 8% difference is causing the issue as the ABS system can't detect that.

Yeah. I just haven't wanted to pull my dash apart yet. Guess I need to get to that one at some point soon before actual miles get so far out of whack. I've put nearly 10k miles on and need to get the speedo and odometer more correct.
 
Yeah. I just haven't wanted to pull my dash apart yet. Guess I need to get to that one at some point soon before actual miles get so far out of whack. I've put nearly 10k miles on and need to get the speedo and odometer more correct.

Back in the day when I was running big 'ol tars I just printed a conversion chart and taped it to my dash. Now, about how all this stuff works:

VSC really does not care what size your tires are nor whether your sway bars are removed. Neither does the wheel sensors or anything else. In order to operate, the input parameters from all the various sensors are constantly being compared to each other, NOT COMPARED TO ACTUAL SPEED. So, if your left front tire suddenly started rotating slower than your left rear tire (say pushing in a turn) then your VSC will start working it's magic by applying brakes to the offending wheel(s) trying to get them all rotating at the same speed. Now this is within a range of course as front to back and outside to inside tires will all have different rotational speeds while going through a corner. You also have a pitch and yaw sensor somewhere that will be signaling what is happening too. To summarize, actual speed in unimportant in the VSC world. Relative rotating speeds are. How fast the rotating speeds change matters too as when you are in 2WD and you take off from a stop on slick surfaces. One wheel spins, the other kicks in (TRAC) and if that does not solve the problem then your throttle backs off and brakes are applied. All in the blink of an eye.
 
Back in the day when I was running big 'ol tars I just printed a conversion chart and taped it to my dash. Now, about how all this stuff works:

VSC really does not care what size your tires are nor whether your sway bars are removed. Neither does the wheel sensors or anything else. In order to operate, the input parameters from all the various sensors are constantly being compared to each other, NOT COMPARED TO ACTUAL SPEED. So, if your left front tire suddenly started rotating slower than your left rear tire (say pushing in a turn) then your VSC will start working it's magic by applying brakes to the offending wheel(s) trying to get them all rotating at the same speed. Now this is within a range of course as front to back and outside to inside tires will all have different rotational speeds while going through a corner. You also have a pitch and yaw sensor somewhere that will be signaling what is happening too. To summarize, actual speed in unimportant in the VSC world. Relative rotating speeds are. How fast the rotating speeds change matters too as when you are in 2WD and you take off from a stop on slick surfaces. One wheel spins, the other kicks in (TRAC) and if that does not solve the problem then your throttle backs off and brakes are applied. All in the blink of an eye.

Darn. Guess it's something else. It just seems weird that abs is working fine but the VSC warning light is on but ABS is not. Guess techstream will share with me the diagnostic! I'll report back. Wonder if it's a bad sensor somewhere if my buddy Toyota will be a rpita trying to blame my mods or if they will be cool. Been a toss-up in the past. Lol good thing I'm still within factory warranty!
 
[MENTION=81003]Jono.ful[/MENTION] [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION]. You are all like Techstream in human form! Don't even have to plug you in. Turns out C1290 steering angle sensor and C1407/C1408 rear wheel speed sensors fault. All codes non-active at time of Techstream and so Toyota cleared and test drove. Of course lights not coming back on. They said, "Don't think its anything." At least they didn't charge me anything. Hopefully it doesn't throw "active codes" after warranty expiration in 9k miles... They did say it was odd the ABS lights never came on. That was a new one!
 
[MENTION=81003]Jono.ful[/MENTION] [MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] [MENTION=66316]1engineer[/MENTION]. You are all like Techstream in human form! Don't even have to plug you in. Turns out C1290 steering angle sensor and C1407/C1408 rear wheel speed sensors fault. All codes non-active at time of Techstream and so Toyota cleared and test drove. Of course lights not coming back on. They said, "Don't think its anything." At least they didn't charge me anything. Hopefully it doesn't throw "active codes" after warranty expiration in 9k miles... They did say it was odd the ABS lights never came on. That was a new one!

Not entirely sure about the rear wheel speed sensor fault, but we have seen one or two faults in the steering angle sensors from time to time.

I would just keep an eye on it at this time and if it occurs again bring it to your friend again. I also have to admit that it is a bit interesting the ABS lamp did not go on as well, most likely because the fault is intermittent in nature and part of a circuit that is constantly being checked; so when the intermittent fault goes away the Skid Control ECU just thinks its fixed and decides to store the DTC as a pending/history DTC.
 
Not entirely sure about the rear wheel speed sensor fault, but we have seen one or two faults in the steering angle sensors from time to time.

I would just keep an eye on it at this time and if it occurs again bring it to your friend again. I also have to admit that it is a bit interesting the ABS lamp did not go on as well, most likely because the fault is intermittent in nature and part of a circuit that is constantly being checked; so when the intermittent fault goes away the Skid Control ECU just thinks its fixed and decides to store the DTC as a pending/history DTC.

I've thrown wheel speed sensor codes after being out wheeling. all it takes is a good bit of mud on the sensor
 

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