Wax On Wax Off

Yes, Collinite is very watery and should go on very thin. Let it sit on the car for about 2 minute or so and then remove. Very easy. No need to let it dry. Do one body panel at a time.

When you first get it though it may be tough to shake up so put the bottle in a sauce pan with hot water for about 10-15 min.
 
clay bar is a must. I did my TE within a couple weeks of ownership and the difference before and after clay bar was surprising.

might as well clay bar and wax the wheels as well. It makes the wheels so much easier to clean in the long run.
 
I clay bar as well a couple of times a year as well. If you already have some kind of wax, a quick Dawn handwash seems to be sufficient. I also use 3D Car Care products (HD Uno is a pretty good 3-in1 product, of course there is no replacement for a true multi-step process). In between, I wash with Optimum No Rinse. I always try to use good quality micro fiber towels and foam waffle buffer pads. One thing I find about car care... there are tons of differing methods and opinions and there is no right answer... just what works for you.
 
You're spot on regarding an awful lot of subjects, but you are way off on this one. You have certainly used the wrong products, techniques, or both but perhaps it's because its low on the priority list like it is for most people.

One of the best sealants that when applied after polishing will bead and last at least 3 months (even if applied less than properly) is Collinite 845. It's $14. It takes very little effort to work with. Other sealants last almost as long and are just as easy to use but cost $40.

Proper protection before winter (supplemented by the occasional wash and spray wax) is most important for vehicles subjected to road grime, salt, sand, etc. If you live in Arizona and the like, detailing is much easier.

Thank you for the compliment, I think? Anyway, here is my opinion:

Paint is applied to protect the metal from the elements and to be pleasing to the eye. Modern painting methods with the base coat clear coat realistically do not need any waxing or polishing for years if all you care about is the paint protecting the metal. It will do that even if you never wash it.

Now, if you want to keep it shiny and new looking then knock yourselves out with all kinds of products. Don't get caught up in the hype though about protection because I have yet to see a wax or sealant keep paint from being scratched or chipped. Wax won't deflect a rock nor will it keep a bush from scratching the side. Shiny and pretty? Absolutely. As protection? Maybe from bird poop but that's about it. It DOES help stuff wash off easier for a few weeks though.
 
Paint is applied to protect the metal from the elements and to be pleasing to the eye. Modern painting methods with the base coat clear coat realistically do not need any waxing or polishing for years if all you care about is the paint protecting the metal. It will do that even if you never wash it.
Wax won't deflect a rock nor will it keep a bush from scratching the side

Wax/sealant is applied to protect a base coat/clear coat/plastic trim/glass from weather elements (water stains, acid rains, UV rays).
Lol, no one applies wax to protect paint from being scratched or chipped.

I'm not anal about car waxing, but I do it when it's due - once per year in my books, but everyone is different. Once per year I apply Collinite sandwich Collinite 845, topped with Collinite 476s and 845 again and it keeps me and my 4Runner happy.
 
Yes, Collinite is very watery and should go on very thin.
True. Any wax/sealant should be applied on very thin: thinner the better.

Let it sit on the car for about 2 minute or so and then remove. Very easy. No need to let it dry. Do one body panel at a time.
It's not 100% true. I always wait until wax hazes before removing it. And hazing time depends on an application methods, outside temperature, and maybe some other factors. So every case is different and 2min/1 panel rule might not apply.

BTW, just checked Collinite 845 bottle and it says "allow to try to a haze".

When you put 845 on trim, glass, plastic - wipe it off effeminately, do not allow it to haze.
 
Saying to ONLY do hand washing/waxing flies in the face of virtually every professional detailing advice thread I've found. They all said to use a good quality random orbital polisher (emphasizing good quality) and Lake Country pads or other top quality pads.

Is it really a mistake to use a power polisher? Of course the hand polishing (don't say it) works well but....?

Well you can polish out a car and I do have a polisher but I try not to do it often, people say it only takes a tiny bit of the clear coat off but I do not like to take a tiny bit off in the first place. I try to prevent the fine line scratches from the start. Power washing is not bad I do not know that is does a good job removing the dirt its the drive through swirl machines I avoid.
 
Wax/sealant is applied to protect a base coat/clear coat/plastic trim/glass from weather elements (water stains, acid rains, UV rays).
Lol, no one applies wax to protect paint from being scratched or chipped.

I said bird poop lol.
 
sheesh.... wash it weekly (maybe) and wax it twice a year.... More importantly drive it! I am not married to my vehicle! I don't' even clean myself as well as some of you clean your 4runners! lol
 
A couple of things when looking after your paint.

1. Don't let the Dealership do the free wash when it's in for service. You'll just get swirls.
2. The longeviety of the wax life on the car has a lot to do with what soap you use to wash the car with inbetween Wax's.

I've been detailing the truck after I got some pinstripping off-road. I'm tackling it a panel at a time. Medium Cutting polish - finishing polish - 2 coats of JetSeal paint sealer and then a carnauba Final wax. I used a polishing tool. It will provide protection for 4 - 6 months. I've been using the JetSeal and Wax for years and water will still bead on the hood after 4 - 5 months.
 
A couple of things when looking after your paint.

1. Don't let the Dealership do the free wash when it's in for service. You'll just get swirls.
2. The longeviety of the wax life on the car has a lot to do with what soap you use to wash the car with inbetween Wax's.

I've been detailing the truck after I got some pinstripping off-road. I'm tackling it a panel at a time. Medium Cutting polish - finishing polish - 2 coats of JetSeal paint sealer and then a carnauba Final wax. I used a polishing tool. It will provide protection for 4 - 6 months. I've been using the JetSeal and Wax for years and water will still bead on the hood after 4 - 5 months.

Jetseal is great stuff. And your dead on regarding car washes. Better to leave your vehicle dirty than to go to one.

Optimum No Rinse is the best to use when washing. Perfect for winter washes but I use it all year round now. Very versatile as well since mixing with water makes a great quick detailer and clay lube. Can't say enough about it.
 
Jetseal is great stuff. And your dead on regarding car washes. Better to leave your vehicle dirty than to go to one.

Optimum No Rinse is the best to use when washing. Perfect for winter washes but I use it all year round now. Very versatile as well since mixing with water makes a great quick detailer and clay lube. Can't say enough about it.

Thanks, I'll give the optimum No rinse a shot. The one part of my detailing regime I was never satisfied with was the wash. It's so hot here all summer in SoCal you can't put a hose near the vehicle or you'll get waterspots. There's not a man alive can dry a black car with towel quicker than the SoCal sun.. Even when in the shade the air is so dry and hot it just whips the moisture away..

I'm moving back to NorCal next month - Seasons - yay!
 
Jetseal is great stuff. And your dead on regarding car washes. Better to leave your vehicle dirty than to go to one.

Optimum No Rinse is the best to use when washing. Perfect for winter washes but I use it all year round now. Very versatile as well since mixing with water makes a great quick detailer and clay lube. Can't say enough about it.

been using O N R since I've seen it on this site. This product is fabulous. I use it in my garage where I have no water hose, and it washes down the truck even better than regular soap. Gonna order another bottle just to be sure I don't run out of stock!
 
Saying to ONLY do hand washing/waxing flies in the face of virtually every professional detailing advice thread I've found. They all said to use a good quality random orbital polisher (emphasizing good quality) and Lake Country pads or other top quality pads.

Is it really a mistake to use a power polisher? Of course the hand polishing (don't say it) works well but....?

Not at all. That is what I was referring to by PC (Porter Cable brand random orbital polisher) in post #8. I use the Lake pads as well. I haven't used it on the T4R yet, but have rescued the paint on my XJ with it. I just finished using it on my Mazda a couple of weekends ago. It takes a little time, but saves your back (vs. hard rubbing) and can give your paint a silky smooth mirror finish. If you have never used one before, it can sound daunting to use a pad with a cutting/polishing agent at 5000 rpm on your paint, but it works well.
 
Roughly how much time do you guys allot to wash, clay, wash, seal, wax? Are you doing all this by hand?
 
Roughly how much time do you guys allot to wash, clay, wash, seal, wax? Are you doing all this by hand?

If your working with a new car, your sequence is ok. 4-5 hours.

If its not new and doing winter prep, I polish before seal but don't do wax. 5-6 hours. Then wash and give another coat of sealant a couple of days later.

Take your time. Enjoy it. Its good old fashioned work. Have a couple of beers in the process.
 
We should really move this to the detail section but.

I usually break this up over 2 days. Fri night wash outside and gargage truck: Next day I will wake up and polish if needed and then wax. After a basic hand wash I like to use a spray wax almost like a detail spray but provides more portection.
 
I don't think this product has been mentioned yet but I just threw two coats of this on my car for the winter:

BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection

Super easy to work with and pretty much dummy proof as far as applying it correctly goes. From the reviews I've read it's suppose to last quite a while, so we shall see.

At the same time I threw on one layer of this on the other car:

Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845

It also went on/off pretty easy too, but doesn't quite feel as "slick" as the blackfire?

This is my first time using both, so I guess I'll see how each one holds up after the winter is over since they are parked right next to each other in the driveway most of the time and would go through the same exact conditions.
 

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