Weight saving plan: What have you done?
- Thread starter Terrapod
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4runr4eva
New member
how much did your mpg go up after that? I've been debating this as well .layball:
1-2 mpg + %20 gain in HP. The thing flies now. :bravo:
sinks88
New member
I love weight savings!
I have taken out my back seats and anything unnecessary. I try to pack as light as possible as well.
I kinda of like the idea of ditching my roof rack....seems I never use it and its just for looks and lowers my mpgs. hmmmm....do they make rail delete covers?
I have taken out my back seats and anything unnecessary. I try to pack as light as possible as well.
I kinda of like the idea of ditching my roof rack....seems I never use it and its just for looks and lowers my mpgs. hmmmm....do they make rail delete covers?
Just don't do what I did aaaaaaaand
..get two 4runners (3rd and 4th gen), for no apparent reason.
Definitely not the way to go, but since they're both daily drivers, when/if I make the jump to Overland-brooooooooo, I'll opt for a svelt 4runner and pull a trailer instead. Get good MPG's in the 90% use scenarios, and suffer when pulling to/from weekend adventures. Bonus being all my gear would hypothetically be stored in the garage vs looking like a candy store for thieves..
Similarly, I went with pizza cutters 255-75-17 better highway gearing and for 32's vs much wider tires, standard load Wrangler tires. Truth be told, I biased "upgrades" much more for day to day driving versus outfitting for adventure. The city roads by my house are so broken up (actually voted top 5 worst roads locally), that a stiff c/d/e rated tire would probably rattle more parts off my 3rd gen. (already lost 2 visor retainer clips)
I like the rear hitch carrier too vs rootop basket/cargo carrier. Slightly easier to remove when not needed, though camping with friends will mean both are utilized. I have both a versahaul MC carrier out back and a regular harborfreight hitch carrier, and I don't prefer one over the other. Versahaul is nice and wide (albeit weirdly shaped), but does not have as many tie down points. Camp chairs and firewood don't care though.
OH, before I forget, since you're from the /becauseracecar community, I'll have you know that there are vendors selling a 6x139 version of an Enkei RPF1 in 16".. called the Enkei RPT1. $2000 canadian dollars locally.
..get two 4runners (3rd and 4th gen), for no apparent reason.
Definitely not the way to go, but since they're both daily drivers, when/if I make the jump to Overland-brooooooooo, I'll opt for a svelt 4runner and pull a trailer instead. Get good MPG's in the 90% use scenarios, and suffer when pulling to/from weekend adventures. Bonus being all my gear would hypothetically be stored in the garage vs looking like a candy store for thieves..
Similarly, I went with pizza cutters 255-75-17 better highway gearing and for 32's vs much wider tires, standard load Wrangler tires. Truth be told, I biased "upgrades" much more for day to day driving versus outfitting for adventure. The city roads by my house are so broken up (actually voted top 5 worst roads locally), that a stiff c/d/e rated tire would probably rattle more parts off my 3rd gen. (already lost 2 visor retainer clips)
I like the rear hitch carrier too vs rootop basket/cargo carrier. Slightly easier to remove when not needed, though camping with friends will mean both are utilized. I have both a versahaul MC carrier out back and a regular harborfreight hitch carrier, and I don't prefer one over the other. Versahaul is nice and wide (albeit weirdly shaped), but does not have as many tie down points. Camp chairs and firewood don't care though.
OH, before I forget, since you're from the /becauseracecar community, I'll have you know that there are vendors selling a 6x139 version of an Enkei RPF1 in 16".. called the Enkei RPT1. $2000 canadian dollars locally.
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Terrapod
New member
Jetboy
New member
I actually did buy a 4runner for the mileage. Compared to a GX460 it's pretty efficient. I went back and forth between GX, LC200, LC80, and 4Runner for months before choosing a 4runner. For me the weight isn't all about mileage. Although that matters too. It's more about performance. Every 17.5lbs added is similar to losing 1hp. So if you bolt 1750lb of stuff (there are plenty of them out there), it's like losing 100hp. And it also trickles down to all the other parts that have less stress and last longer as a result.
So - while I'm not chasing mpgs or 0-60 times, keeping the weight down helps general performance in all categories on and off road. My 4runner is 95% daily driver. And most of my camp trips are a few hours away on the highway. So street use is still a priority for me.
Until I hook up my camper - where I put all my camping comfort shit that I judge everyone else for having... with a trailer I can haul even more deep cycle batteries and solar powered a/c and other shit I don't need than I could ever fit in the 4runner! because - like others I also like to go camping with comfort sometimes.
So - while I'm not chasing mpgs or 0-60 times, keeping the weight down helps general performance in all categories on and off road. My 4runner is 95% daily driver. And most of my camp trips are a few hours away on the highway. So street use is still a priority for me.
Until I hook up my camper - where I put all my camping comfort shit that I judge everyone else for having... with a trailer I can haul even more deep cycle batteries and solar powered a/c and other shit I don't need than I could ever fit in the 4runner! because - like others I also like to go camping with comfort sometimes.
Terrapod
New member
With a mounted solar charging system, I don't see any reason why not. Unless you have a battery failure, should be just fine.
Terrapod
New member
One of the biggest reasons I started this thread - over the course of the long trip: Example - my recent trip from the Atlanta area to the Kokopelli Trail and into Moab, UT...that trip was about 5K miles. Saving weight where I could spelled significant gas savings over the course of the trip. And that directly impacted the total budget for the trip. It all adds up.
Saving money where I can simply makes sense to me.
Saving money where I can simply makes sense to me.
wfo9
New member
Do like most overland builds and add about 2k in weight, get yourself over the max GVWR throw a big heavy tent up on top, hang another bunch of crap cantilevered off the back and then wonder why it kinda sucks all around and can't keep up with a jeep renegade with 28" tires. But you will get a lot of followers on Instagram LOL.
In all seriousness. Its give and take. You have to decide what weight is worth the convince or added utility for your primary use cases.
Personally speaking....
MPG, not really my big concern I mainly want off-road performance and decent on-road manners. I'll give up the on-road as I have other vehicles for that use case.
Un-sprung weight does not bother me much at all. Sure it hurts acceleration, but not enough to bother me. Since bigger more off-road oriented tires add so much in terms of off-road capability, comfort, and stability. I'm more than willing to take the weight hit there. Also running a proper tire for the conditions often means the difference between needing to winch, or putting on a spare vs just not needing to worry about it. I still try to run tires that have a good weight to performance ratio....
Steel bumpers are the #1 weight problem. I simply could not avoid a front bumper and option to run a winch, so I took the hit there. Aluminum would have been better but nothing on the market offered the clearance I wanted.. If you don't need the clearance.. don't do it.
The other big weight area is armor. I use aluminum there except for the sliders and I would consider aluminum for sliders if they were available.
Weight position is probably as important as the total weight. Inside and low and it won't hurt near as much. Up top is the worst possible location, out back is also not fantastic but better then up top.. If you can keep the spare under.. it's ideal for performance.
All this obviously has to be balanced out with utility. There is no correct answer.
I did remove my rear passenger side seats in favor of a flat panel there. Saved a little weight and allows for a sleeping platform for 1 vs a RTT. I also store all my tools under it which keeps that weight as low as possible.
Now if you are trying to save weight on a stock truck... Probably a waste of time and energy. Not much you can really gain in terms of MPG....Aero and motor are the main factors and you can't possibly get less tire on the road than factory and have it still be safe and functional for any off-road use.
In all seriousness. Its give and take. You have to decide what weight is worth the convince or added utility for your primary use cases.
Personally speaking....
MPG, not really my big concern I mainly want off-road performance and decent on-road manners. I'll give up the on-road as I have other vehicles for that use case.
Un-sprung weight does not bother me much at all. Sure it hurts acceleration, but not enough to bother me. Since bigger more off-road oriented tires add so much in terms of off-road capability, comfort, and stability. I'm more than willing to take the weight hit there. Also running a proper tire for the conditions often means the difference between needing to winch, or putting on a spare vs just not needing to worry about it. I still try to run tires that have a good weight to performance ratio....
Steel bumpers are the #1 weight problem. I simply could not avoid a front bumper and option to run a winch, so I took the hit there. Aluminum would have been better but nothing on the market offered the clearance I wanted.. If you don't need the clearance.. don't do it.
The other big weight area is armor. I use aluminum there except for the sliders and I would consider aluminum for sliders if they were available.
Weight position is probably as important as the total weight. Inside and low and it won't hurt near as much. Up top is the worst possible location, out back is also not fantastic but better then up top.. If you can keep the spare under.. it's ideal for performance.
All this obviously has to be balanced out with utility. There is no correct answer.
I did remove my rear passenger side seats in favor of a flat panel there. Saved a little weight and allows for a sleeping platform for 1 vs a RTT. I also store all my tools under it which keeps that weight as low as possible.
Now if you are trying to save weight on a stock truck... Probably a waste of time and energy. Not much you can really gain in terms of MPG....Aero and motor are the main factors and you can't possibly get less tire on the road than factory and have it still be safe and functional for any off-road use.
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e60ral
Banned
one other thought:
what i did to reduce what i carried camping was bring an extra empty bin and as i used things i left them in that bin. When i got home i went through the original storage bin, a few items i pulled out and moved to the new bin but generally everything in that bin was left at home on my next camping trip.
what i did to reduce what i carried camping was bring an extra empty bin and as i used things i left them in that bin. When i got home i went through the original storage bin, a few items i pulled out and moved to the new bin but generally everything in that bin was left at home on my next camping trip.
DaveInPickerington
New member
Very clever. I'll give this a try on my next camping trip.
Easyrider18
New member
People just need to ask the question "will I really use this/ need this."
The 4runner community seems to be addicted to RTTs, over sized heavy ass bumpers, rear ladders, gobi roof racks, sliders, ARB fridges, full length skids plates all while rolling down fireroads on 32ish tires. Which makes them look like 7k pound armadillos. ...luckily patches dont weigh much
But go and spend your money however the hell you want and enjoy your build.
The 4runner community seems to be addicted to RTTs, over sized heavy ass bumpers, rear ladders, gobi roof racks, sliders, ARB fridges, full length skids plates all while rolling down fireroads on 32ish tires. Which makes them look like 7k pound armadillos. ...luckily patches dont weigh much
But go and spend your money however the hell you want and enjoy your build.
How? I haven't gotten better than 16 and don't have near that much weight.
Jetboy
New member
Probably has to do with speed. I can get around 22mpg towing my camper if I go 55mph. Totally empty at 90mph - more like 17. If I stay around 80ish I can usually average about 18-19 (adjusted for tire height). 17.5 on the dash.
nglayton
Senior Member
Don't get me wrong I was just as surprised as you are. That was unusual for me, but now that I know it can be done......
I do think speed is part of the solution. Also relatively flat trip, clear weather, cruise control, keeping my foot out of it.
Keeping it right at about 70 most of the way is what worked this time.:thumb:
If I go 75+, it drops down to about 16 :nono:
Bumbo
New member
Going out of your way for weight savings on a truck like this is like loading up on goodies then getting a diet coke at McDonnalds.
I know every pound counts, but that's not really what these trucks are about to me. Its not a platform where making decisions about saving few pounds here and there is going to impact anything note worthy.
I'm going to carry the weight, but how I load the truck, balance, and where I put the weight actually more a bigger difference than the weight itself.
As an example, water tanks, spare tires, and other heavy gear gets mounted as low as possible instead on the roof. Keep the center of gravity low, but as far as the actual weight is concerned... could care less because I need everything that's in it.
I know every pound counts, but that's not really what these trucks are about to me. Its not a platform where making decisions about saving few pounds here and there is going to impact anything note worthy.
I'm going to carry the weight, but how I load the truck, balance, and where I put the weight actually more a bigger difference than the weight itself.
As an example, water tanks, spare tires, and other heavy gear gets mounted as low as possible instead on the roof. Keep the center of gravity low, but as far as the actual weight is concerned... could care less because I need everything that's in it.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
'Weight saving mods' still increase weight for the most part.
Rear seats are apparently 84lbs on the 4th gen
Front "racing seats" are only 28lbs each, not sure about stock
Remove stock roof rack, save 15lbs over stock, 60lbs over lightweight racks, 80lbs over heavy racks
Fiberglass fenders
No winch at all, 75lbs
Aluminum rear links, thin chromoly links, or strengthened stock links
Remove spare tire winch cable, 10lbs
Remove spare tire crossmember, 10lbs
1/8" AR400 skids, save 35lbs with front 3 skids over 3/16" steel with no strength decrease
A basic barebones cargo platform system would save some decent weight over the usual drawer system with slides on slides on slides.
A full tank of fuel weights 150lbs. Wheeling with half a tank saves 75lbs.
1/4" Aluminum front 3 skids weigh 60lbs less than 3/16" steel. But all these items above add up to quite a bit more.
Adding just aluminum skid plates for example, you probably won't see any performance increase (waste of money). But keeping an serious eye on everything and tossing out what you don't need you could actually start to improve things without even needing to sacrifice strength of armor if you still wheel hard.
Rear seats are apparently 84lbs on the 4th gen
Front "racing seats" are only 28lbs each, not sure about stock
Remove stock roof rack, save 15lbs over stock, 60lbs over lightweight racks, 80lbs over heavy racks
Fiberglass fenders
No winch at all, 75lbs
Aluminum rear links, thin chromoly links, or strengthened stock links
Remove spare tire winch cable, 10lbs
Remove spare tire crossmember, 10lbs
1/8" AR400 skids, save 35lbs with front 3 skids over 3/16" steel with no strength decrease
A basic barebones cargo platform system would save some decent weight over the usual drawer system with slides on slides on slides.
A full tank of fuel weights 150lbs. Wheeling with half a tank saves 75lbs.
1/4" Aluminum front 3 skids weigh 60lbs less than 3/16" steel. But all these items above add up to quite a bit more.
Adding just aluminum skid plates for example, you probably won't see any performance increase (waste of money). But keeping an serious eye on everything and tossing out what you don't need you could actually start to improve things without even needing to sacrifice strength of armor if you still wheel hard.
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mtnbiker49
New member
Well said overall. I went through all this with my xterra, but with all steel.
Rack- I told myself that I would never get a steel roof rack again. Why add 100 pounds to the roof when an aluminum rack will do just as good? Especially if it is for a RTT or cans, it will likely be set it and forget it.
Skids- 95% of the ppl here have no need for steel skids. People do have preferences, which I understand. The weight savings is considerable and you are not giving up much in terms of protection. You may have to replace the skid after it does its job.
Front bumper- This is where I have mixed feelings. Personally, I’ll take the hit on weight here and throw on a steel bumper with full hoops. Why? Animals like to run out in the road and I’m not going to have a deer trash a $2000 bumper. After a minor incident like that, I need to be able to shrug it off and keep moving. Side note: synthetic winch line is the best.
Rear bumper- There has to be a partial steel/aluminum option available. It will be difficult, but it needs to be done. A spare tire carrier needs to be sub 100lbs. The hitch is still integrated into the frame, so the tire carrier is what needs the steel support.
coltm4
New member
Who is making AR400 skids? I've wondered why that isn't more common given the strength and weight savings.
While an improvement in MPG is a nice bonus, the reality is weight greatly decreases offroad performance. Keeping the weight to a minimum is about what you plan on driving through. I agree >95% of people have no need for 3/16" steel skids. That being said, i think I will be getting a SSO half winch bumper in steel for a safe anchor point to pull from. I'm just not convinced aluminum bumpers are robust enough in design to survive side pulls more than a few times without tweaking them.
The goal is to be as light as can be for your needs.
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