Weird electrical issue on 2015 Trail

[Ezekiel2222]

Thanks to everyone for the support. I went ahead and hooked the heated seats back up, and tested them to make sure they still work. So far so good. I won't be using them much right now as we've had temps in the 70s the last three days (wacky Colorado weather!) Maybe if it gets cold again I'll get some more use out of them. Either way, I'll be sure to let you guys know if I ever have any more issues with them.

 

[INVICTUS13]

Weird electrical issue 2015 SR5

Ezekiel2222...
I have been having the exact same issues with my 2015 SR5!
All of a sudden the clock goes of and resets, the door will not lock or unlock, the remote doesn't work, no dome lights. Let the car sit for awhile and it's all good. Weird. I am going to check the short pin fuse. I hope this works for me. The dealership wants me to wait a month for my appointment. Sad since I bought this car less than two months ago. I would think it would be a priority to get this "new" running but it's not.
Hope you car is cured. Thanks!

 

[K9trainer]

Ezekiel2222...
I have been having the exact same issues with my 2015 SR5!
All of a sudden the clock goes of and resets, the door will not lock or unlock, the remote doesn't work, no dome lights. Let the car sit for awhile and it's all good. Weird. I am going to check the short pin fuse. I hope this works for me. The dealership wants me to wait a month for my appointment. Sad since I bought this car less than two months ago. I would think it would be a priority to get this "new" running but it's not.
Hope you car is cured. Thanks!

I knew right off you were in Hawaii, the dealers or I should say Servco is the worst at getting appointments at. Try Windward Toyota.

 

[pbealo]

Glad I found this thread!

I have a 4 week old 2015 Trail Premium and was wondering why my clock has reset itself 3 or 4 times. Then tonight it happened again BUT several other lights came on: SRS Warning, Multi terrain select, seat belt light and slip indicator. I wonder if I have this same issue with a shorting fuse??

Peter B
SE NH

 

[Ezekiel2222]

Wow, who would have thought there would be replies to my thread 6 months later!

It definitely sounds like your problem is similar to what happened to me. I would take a look in the fuse box and see if the "SHORT PIN" is loose or not fully seated. If it is, push it all the way in and see if it fixes your problem (you may need a tool to help push it in, mine was very tight). If it's already in all the way I'm afraid you'll probably have to take it to the dealer.
[MENTION=130581]INVICTUS13[/MENTION] and [MENTION=130802]pbealo[/MENTION] please let us know what you find!

As a follow-up for everyone else, I haven't had any issues with the vehicle since my last post back in March. I haven't used the seat heaters a lot since then, but they have been used and nothing bad has happened.

 

[pbealo]

Like others, my issue turned out to be that damned shorting "fuse". It wasn't in far, contact was intermittant.

So far that's the ony issue with my T4R TP.

Projects keep racking up though. Now that I've had it a few months I want to add:

Front brush guard
Rear bumper guard
Running boards (which kind though??)
Direct 12V line from battery to cabin (to power 100W ham radio)
Replace map lamps with red LEDs (better to see but still reduce light blindness)
Figure out where to mount ham radio antennae

Peter B.

 

[Ezekiel2222]

Wow, now that I hear that I am convinced that my problem was a result of the short pin being loose all along, and my dealership wasted MONTHS doing diagnosis and replacing a perfectly good BCM.

It sounds like some dealerships are not properly installing the shot pin before turning vehicles over to customers. I would suggest that all new owners check this as soon as you accept delivery. It takes all of 30 seconds to check, and can save you some major headache later on.

Still interested to hear what [MENTION=130581]INVICTUS13[/MENTION] discovered about his case.

 

[rigtec]

Wow, now that I hear that I am convinced that my problem was a result of the short pin being loose all along, and my dealership wasted MONTHS doing diagnosis and replacing a perfectly good BCM.

Hi Ezekiel,

I think that this thread is the conclusion to a long standing, ongoing problem for 5'th gen 4Runner owners. Many here have had this exact same problem, including myself, but none were able to define it as you have! I traced my "Carnival light show" Instrument cluster to the 'Main body ECU ' i.e., Multiplex Body compu network. This problem persisted for exactly four months before completely disappearing without a trace, thereby preventing me from getting it resolved.

And I too was getting harassed by the dealership and being accused of creating the problem myself when I opted to install a few amenities e.g., 270 Amp (aftermarket) alternator, PIAA foglights, LED lightbar, 'factory style' in-dash switches, and a couple of 'BIG HORSE POWER' Mono-block power amplifiers to drive my subs... wait a minute! looking back... the SM at the dealership was right(!), that does lend to cause for suspicious!!! OH WELL! :noidea:

Anyway, my point is that this thread will help others to find a solution to a very vague, nebulus and perplexing problem; even for the elite electrical experts... so glad you stayed with it and posted you findings here!

Cheers!

 

[jleet4r15]

Damn come on Toyota.

I have a 2015 T4R trail premium with all that same problems. I just found out on my own yesterday about this fuse issue by messing with the fuses my self. I have 8k on my rig. It has been having these symptoms for a couple of months now. For christmas my wife got me a remote start and shortly after this these symptoms started. I took it into the dealer and they said they could not do anything for me because there were aftermarket parts on my vehicle. So I went to the installer of the remote start and had them yard out all the parts they put in. Then took it back to the dealer to have them fix whatever was wrong they said there was nothing wrong with it. Im glad I have read that there are other people with this problem and that it is as simple as relay/fuse.
I now have ammo for these shady people at my friendly local dealer.

 

[Alaska_4Runner]

Heated Seat Mystery

@ezekial2222 great to hear you stuck it to the man and in the end, it all worked out. Even more impressed at everyone here who supported you throughout the the whole ordeal. Goes to show what a community of Toyota lovers can do for one another!

I had recently come across your heated seat threat (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...t-wire-harness-part-number-2.html#post1834879) and am strongly considering purchasing OEM parts needed to complete this MOD.

But I must ask, if everything is plug & play... where does the final plug go? What gives the seats power? Where do I make that final connection?

This is the only thing slowing me down from installing factory OEM heated seats (since I know its not a computer issue that could potentially fail). Please, could someone offer a diagram, photo reference, [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] assist with an install, phone call, FaceTime as to where the final plug goes.

Thank you again, and OP... glad to see everything has worked out for you. Keep those buns nice and warm this winter.

All my best from the Pacific Northwest!

Wow, now that I hear that I am convinced that my problem was a result of the short pin being loose all along, and my dealership wasted MONTHS doing diagnosis and replacing a perfectly good BCM.

It sounds like some dealerships are not properly installing the shot pin before turning vehicles over to customers. I would suggest that all new owners check this as soon as you accept delivery. It takes all of 30 seconds to check, and can save you some major headache later on.

Still interested to hear what [MENTION=130581]INVICTUS13[/MENTION] discovered about his case.

 

[Ezekiel2222]

[MENTION=133328]Alaska_4Runner[/MENTION]

I answered your question over in my other thread. Seemed appropriate to keep the discussion limited to a single source.

 

[rigtec]

But I must ask, if everything is plug & play... where does the final plug go? What gives the seats power? Where do I make that final connection?

Hi Alaska_4Runner,

Here is the diagram that you've requested! It's not a Plug-N-Play mod like an aftermarket LED bar in that you'll have to follow the schematic and match the parts on the harness to wire it properly. The main power comes from the D/S fusebox so it plugs in there and may also plug into the MB-ECU. "See the print below":



Follow this as best you can. If you run into trouble, I'll be around a little later to see how you're doing! "Best to you"

rig

 

[konstant10]

Hi people! I think it is my first post on this forum. I am here because is found it very useful. I had exactly the same problem with my 2015 4Runner.. my initial impression was that the problem was caused by high humidity we recently experienced in Toronto... So, i went to see a dealership. They spent a whole day long troubleshooting and said that the the reason was not identified. ... more troubleshooting needed. I went back home, google it and found this thread. Magic!! As before, my advise to those who has some technical background is - do it yourself. Dealership is your last resort, if all other resources are over. See my pictures before and after i pushed the short pin in its correct location.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[scarpozzi]

I started a thread on my door locks. I'm having similar issues in my 2011 SR5 (74k miles).

Door Locks and dome light stop working after the ignition is powered off...the rear hatch door also fails to open (as it's powered by the same circuit). This started happening back in August/September and I've not put a lot of time into testing, but visually inspected many fuses to no avail. I pulled the short pin today and reinserted it. I may pull out my multi-meter this weekend and test continuity on all the fuses and see what I can find.

It's interesting to find others with the same KIND of issue because any time I suggest I have door lock problems, the common response is always that it's an actuator despite me repeating that it's a circuit issue.

I'm trying to figure out a short list of things to test. I'm going to check the short pin and ECU-B fuses with a meter though they visibly look ok....along with all the door fuses.

I appreciate all of those who posted in this thread. It's a lot of help seeing a similar issue and how it's played out.

 

[LC100]

I finally got a chance to go take a look in the fuse box. Sure enough, the short pin is a specially shaped "fuse" with no number stamped on it.

Is it safe for me to remove the short pin and then start up the vehicle? I want to see if I can re-create the problematic symptoms I had before, in an easily reversible way. If it turns out the short pin is the cause and solution to everything, it will make me wonder why they were messing with the BCM at all.

This post/picture saved me a lot of headaches in 2023:tea:! My recently acquired 15 PRO was missing the short pin. Symptoms included:

• Multi-terrain select unavailable
• Slip light indicator
• SRS warning
• Non-working interior lighting - dome, map, vanity cargo, courtesy
• Non-working clock
• Trunk would not open unless the vehicle was turned on

 

[rigtec]

Ezekiel2222...
I have been having the exact same issues with my 2015 SR5!
All of a sudden the clock goes of and resets, the door will not lock or unlock, the remote doesn't work, no dome lights. Let the car sit for awhile and it's all good. Weird. I am going to check the short pin fuse. I hope this works for me. The dealership wants me to wait a month for my appointment. Sad since I bought this car less than two months ago. I would think it would be a priority to get this "new" running but it's not.
Hope you car is cured. Thanks!

Hi INVICTUS13,

One thing I would do first; if you haven't already! Disconnect the NEG Battery cable for a minimum of four hours, after you're done using it for the day. All of the ECUs will go back to their factory settings; your radio presets will need to be reset, and your Compass will need a "Circle Deviation Calibration" based on where you live in the country... but it's very easy to do; I must've done mine 25 times in my LE!

Try that First and let us know how that works for you. If it doesn't, a "Center Point Steering Calibration" and "Yaw-rate acceleration calibration" may still be needed... the dealership should've advised you; but they don't like doing warranty work...!!!

~rig~ Cheers!

 

[Ezekiel2222]

This post/picture saved me a lot of headaches in 2023:tea:! My recently acquired 15 PRO was missing the short pin. Symptoms included:

• Multi-terrain select unavailable
• Slip light indicator
• SRS warning
• Non-working interior lighting - dome, map, vanity cargo, courtesy
• Non-working clock
• Trunk would not open unless the vehicle was turned on

I still check this forum from time to time, but boy was I shocked to see my thread from 8 years ago back on the front page! I'm glad it's still helping people out! Moto of the story, check that darn "short pin" guys!