Weird headlight issue - please weigh in

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xxaarraa

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I installed a DDM tuning HID kit on my 08 T4R recently (5000K / 55W). Was really happy with the simplicity and the light output but after a few weeks, the right side ballast failed. I sent it out to DDM and they sent me a replacement which I put in yesterday. Since then, I notice a weird issue:

  • if I switch the lights on with car turned off, both sides will light up fine.
  • If I start the car with the lights on, the right side will switch off once car has started. Left will stay on.
  • With the car running, if I turn off the lights and turn them back on, both sides will light up fine. The right side does not seem to like the car starting while the circuit is live.
  • If I turn off the lights and start the car and then turn on the lights, both sides will light up fine.

Not a deal breaker, I can probably remember to always turn the lights on only after the car has started, but anyone know why this might be happening? Thanks a lot.,
 
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If you have a relay check the voltage when off and then when on. But other than that I have no idea but with DDM its always a gamble some get lucky and some such as me get annoyed with constaly sending back parts. If this happends to you i suggest getting a Morimoto system they have GREAT quality products. Good Luck though
 
2007toyota4runners said:
If you have a relay check the voltage when off and then when on. But other than that I have no idea but with DDM its always a gamble some get lucky and some such as me get annoyed with constaly sending back parts. If this happends to you i suggest getting a Morimoto system they have GREAT quality products. Good Luck though
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I'll follow up with this. If you installed the relay, take it out (Assume you have the 35W kit?) Those bulbs take less current than the OEMs. Been using for about 6-7 months now, no issue.
 
Sounds like to me the voltage regulator in the new ballast is not to spec. It cant maintain proper voltage to the light bulb to keep it fired while the vehicle voltage is fluctuating.
 
OrangeTexan said:
Sounds like to me the voltage regulator in the new ballast is not to spec. It cant maintain proper voltage to the light bulb to keep it fired while the vehicle voltage is fluctuating.
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Hmmm... There were no additional relays. Unless the smaller box connected/wired to the ballast was a relay. But the entire unit was plug and play, no ground, no additional wires.

I don't want to spend the high $$ for a retrofit, as I already have factory projectors. If this doesn't improve, I may just go back to stock bulbs till I research a better plug and play HID kit. Anyone know of any reasonably priced alternatives to DDM (non retrofit)?

Thanks guys,
 
Does your model have auto lights? If u leave on auto its going to cause problem, usuall that mode dont supply enought voltage, a relay harness will help that, if u just use it manually and put it on headlight mode, it should work right away. Which ddm kit did hou get? Try a relay harness and see if that helps, make your own.
 
I wouldn't use 55 watt kit. 35 is more than plenty. But since you stuck with yours it sounds like one of your bulbs fails to reignite ( when car starts power supply shuts off to secondary equipment momentarilly). I'd contact DDM and get new bulb, don't plan on quick replacement though because they have to contact and ship stuff from China. Or start the truck first and then turn lights on. Good luck.



.
 
THEROK said:
Xenondepot. Get the one with 4300k Philips bulb.
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+1 (although I like my 6000k). You get what you pay for. Had DDM in a motorcycle. I'd have to restart the bike a couple of times to get the bulb to stay on sometimes. What are they, $40 a kit?
 
zimm said:
+1 (although I like my 6000k). You get what you pay for. Had DDM in a motorcycle. I'd have to restart the bike a couple of times to get the bulb to stay on sometimes. What are they, $40 a kit?
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I have the same DDM H11 kit on my motorcycle as the T4R and it has worked flawlessly so far (knock on wood)! :D
 
How's your battery ?
Starter can really drop the overall system voltage when cranking and more so when batt has a weak cell or two.

The low voltage can cause the HID / ballast / igniter to drop out
 
Atlanta_man said:
How's your battery ?
Starter can really drop the overall system voltage when cranking and more so when batt has a weak cell or two.

The low voltage can cause the HID / ballast / igniter to drop out
Click to expand...

Picked up the truck about 3k miles ago and they put in a brand new battery then. Without doing a test, guess is battery is solid.

I am wondering if there is something in the stock wiring on the right side that's causing this issue. The first ballast that failed was on the same side.
 
OK guys, here's the update. I installed the constant power relay from DDMTuning and zero difference. Right side will still turn off when I start the car. Couple of questions:

  • The negative wire from the relay - this goes to the frame/body ground point correct? I had it going to the negative terminal first and the lights wouldn't turn on. It now goes to the body/ground and lights work.
  • The connectors from the relay - they go to the ballast connector correct? I tried connecting them to the bulb itself, and lights wouldn't work.

Any help/thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
well ground is ground, alsong its on bare metal its fine, im thinking its the bulbs and ballast, sorry man but ddm is crap, should of spend all the hard earn money on theretrofitsource.com if you still want to troubleshoot, she the pins and plugs on the ballast and harness. might be loose.
 
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