I desperately need to either reupholster or replace mine. If you don't mind me asking how much did it cost and can you recommend a vendor?
What are you putting off repairing on your 4Runner
- Thread starter plcfcng
- Start date
Jidaran
New member
Yeah, I did a full flush last month. Fluid didn't look too bad, especially considering it's been 4+ years since it was replaced.
It's passed 200 only a few times before, 99% of the the driving I do keeps the temp within spec. But something I need to take care of for sure.
Satter
New member
How do you coat inside the box frame?
Brian.
Member
Tons of holes in the frame already, you just use an applicator hose like this one:
and your choice of product.
thegipper
New member
Tons of holes in the frame already, you just use an applicator hose like this one:
and your choice of product.
Do you have a link to this?
Never mind, found it: Aerosol Undercoating Rustproofing 36 in Flex Spray Hose 360* Coverage Zenametal | eBay
Thanks
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Joelzy
New member
yeah that^
i was probably gonna go this route
Eastwood Internal Frame Anti-Rust Coating, 14 oz. Spray
i was probably gonna go this route
Eastwood Internal Frame Anti-Rust Coating, 14 oz. Spray
Rolling_Thunder
Member
I did a small lift on my 4runner about 3 years ago when I added the 265s and '99 rear springs.... Same time I did the 4x4 and 5-speed swap...
I STILL haven't gotten it aligned. I've driven it across country and another 35,000mi since then haha
I STILL haven't gotten it aligned. I've driven it across country and another 35,000mi since then haha
TheSaturnV
Member
Sure thing. I did a lot of online research and had it narrowed down to 2 companies found on ebay. In the end I went with US Auto Seat Cover and am pretty happy with the choice. I contacted them through their website and put together a package deal.
I got the leathers for both fronts (my back seats look practically brand new) and 2 new seat foams for the bottoms for $800 even. The seat foams sell for about $100 each, so I think it was a pretty good deal. I highly recommend replacing your seat foams because they are actually the culprit behind the classic 4runner driver seat bolster blow out! When I first put the new seats in I couldn't believe how much higher I sat in the truck again. I had been doing the lowrider for so long. They don't offer foams for the uppers or I would have gone for those. The replacements look like much better quality material than OEM.
The labor really wasn't difficult at all. Add in $70 for a set of aftermarket seat heaters from Amazon and you've got some brand new front seats for under $1000. Excuse the crummy pic, but you can see they nailed the OEM pattern and OAK color. This is before I put the head rest on and applied the heat gun and they already looked so much better.
Attachments
I have a new fuel filter sitting around, waiting to install. 233K miles, so it's certainly time.
But those fittings look rusty, and I just know it's going to be a real epic PITA.
I also have new HS rear lower control arms, and poly bushings for the other arms, but I'm mostly just waiting for better weather to put those on.
But those fittings look rusty, and I just know it's going to be a real epic PITA.
I also have new HS rear lower control arms, and poly bushings for the other arms, but I'm mostly just waiting for better weather to put those on.
Satter
New member
Tons of holes in the frame already, you just use an applicator hose like this one:
and your choice of product.
Interesting. I live in the Texas hill country. So they never salt the roads here. Even on the very rare occasion it gets icey. Ironically I just crawled underneath my Runner yesterday to see if I had rust. A few specs here and there. But that was it.
Anywho, that’s for the knowledge.
Tinigunner11
New member
For me it’s knock sensors and the knock sensor harness. It’s been on for 70,000 miles now because I don’t want to tear the intake down. I’ve probably already paid for the paid the parts in the bad gas mileage I’ve been getting but still lol. My other one is lower control arm bushings. With 355,000 on the clock it makes it hard to want to tear into it.
I've only had this old guy for a month and it's been behind on some of the maintenance and upkeep must's (timing belt etc, fluids change throughout, LBJ's, battery, plugs and wires) so I've worked through most of those.
Putting off: wheel bearing or pinion gear bearing, my center console lights, most of which are out, transmission gear indicator which doesn't line up right, and driver side master lock switch which will lock, but not unlock, all the doors.
Putting off: wheel bearing or pinion gear bearing, my center console lights, most of which are out, transmission gear indicator which doesn't line up right, and driver side master lock switch which will lock, but not unlock, all the doors.
I have a door lock switch issue, or I *thought* it was a switch. The driver's side switch will lock all the doors but not unlock them, the passenger side works like it should. What's the 'body ecu'? Sounds expensive.
You can also get into it by removing the rear bumper. Might be able to spray coat all the way to the front with a hose fitting or something.
jross20
New member
Not totally sure, just some expensive ass computer that controls... Body...stuff... I guess?
I can only lock or unlock my doors with my fob.
Key doesn't work to unlock, or do they auto-lock immediately? I don't have a fob, putting that off too.
jross20
New member
The fob works perfectly, but any of the buttons inside the cab do nothing at all. I mean they act as if they are not plugged in or something. Totally dead.
Of course you can manually pull the plunger things.
Squint_Eastwood
New member
Slow transmission leak but leak seems to be coming from high side of the trans somewhere and whole pan is covered in fluid
