What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!

I went with Akebono ceramic pads and Centric rotors. All good so far, no noise and seems to be pretty similar to stock braking power. Haven't got to really test them yet as Akebono suggests 500 miles of easy stopping as opposed to doing a bed in process. Headed to the mountains in a couple weeks, so should get a better idea then

Outstanding choice. IIRC, The Car Care Nut even recommends Akebono (he's typically a consistent OEM advocate).
 
Steering Knuckles (Spindles)

Went to get some new Rubber on the wheels and noticed i have a bunch of extra rust build up on basically the entire (both sides) steering and control arm assembly. Live by the beach, but also venture to anza, ocotillo, and glamis as often as I can. As well as pismo so they do take abnormal punishment. Looking to replace them as I see the steering spindle on the driver side has some splits in the metal. Any recommendations on quality replacements preferably where i can pick up in the San Diego area... if not, somewhere that can ship reasonably quick. As with every purchase also not looking to break the bank on these parts as I intend to put a long travel kit or something more than I've got. Any recommendations for that as well would be greatly appreciated.
 
Went up Pyramid Pass with the family for a nice day trip on my birthday. Couldn't have asked for better weather.

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Later on trying to find the cause of a weird smell, I discovered that my front carpets were soaked. Just an absolute swamp. The all-weather mats kept it well concealed. It turns out, when I cut/hammered my pinch weld over the summer I went too deep and cut right into the footwell. On both sides. I just hadn't encountered any water until the rainy season started. It's going to take days for the carpet to dry out with how cold/humid it currently is here in the Seattle region :(

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The wife is never going to let me live this down lol
 
I did this about a year ago when I replaced my tailgate switch rubber. Almost all of the nuts were loose. I used a low strength Loctite to secure them.
Had a flange nut come off the rear hatch door handle which was rattling around inside the door. Also the other nut was almost falling off making the handle loose. So I pulled the interior cover off and reinstalled and tightened all nuts. Did some cleaning as there was a lot of dust from off-roading. Very easy job with the hardest part carefully prying the interior panel off.
 
I have the same exact thing going on! husky mats kept it hidden until the smell started... but haven't had the opportunity to start pulling the plastic and carpet apart to check whether it's the work I did to the pinch weld or a clogged sunroof drain.

the timing of it has me thinking I f'ed up the pinch weld work....

Later on trying to find the cause of a weird smell, I discovered that my front carpets were soaked. Just an absolute swamp. The all-weather mats kept it well concealed. It turns out, when I cut/hammered my pinch weld over the summer I went too deep and cut right into the footwell. On both sides. I just hadn't encountered any water until the rainy season started. It's going to take days for the carpet to dry out with how cold/humid it currently is here in the Seattle region :(

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The wife is never going to let me live this down lol
 
I did this about a year ago when I replaced my tailgate switch rubber. Almost all of the nuts were loose. I used a low strength Loctite to secure them.

In retrospect, I should have use blue locktite on the flange nuts securing the handle. That said it did go 8 years and 315K miles and pulling the panel was relatively easy.
 
I have the same exact thing going on! husky mats kept it hidden until the smell started... but haven't had the opportunity to start pulling the plastic and carpet apart to check whether it's the work I did to the pinch weld or a clogged sunroof drain.

the timing of it has me thinking I f'ed up the pinch weld work....
Pulling the carpet back is a pain in the ass. The door trim comes up easy enough by pulling on the interior side and working your way down. the kick panel is held in by a wonky little nob on the floor - it needs to be unscrewed - then you can just pop the kick panel off. Then you gotta work the carpet and the pad back. There's a block of styrofoam down there too - the driver side one attaches to the floor with plastic screws, the one on t the passenger is glued to the carpet. There's also a big wiring harness behind each kick panel - I had to unscrew the ground straps for each and try to pry them away without breaking too many clips/tabs to get to the damage in the corner.

Overall, not super hard, but not fun either. I've got little nicks and cuts all over my fingers, hands and arms. I finished my patches last night and just ran home at lunch to reconnect the electrical so I could crank it. Left it running in the driveway at home with the floor heater running on full blast. My wife works from home, so she's going to keep an eye on it for me.

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Well boys, I’m about to head out…
After almost 13 years of ownership, the 4Runner finally let me down…
I was forced to replace the battery in my key fob.

It was also a Panasonic by the way.
 
Yesterday I had all my 4Runner windows, including the sunroof, tinted with 3M Ceramic IR.
I went with 5% sunroof, 15% five rear windows, 50% front passenger and driver windows and 70% windshield.
 

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Been a while since I posted in here.

Attempted to fix what I thought was a bad HID ballast today. I've got a retrofit and the driver's side light hasn't been working. Got new Morimoto ballasts and igniters, replaced the driver's side pieces and the light still didn't work. Tried the new ballast and igniter on the passenger side, light worked. I'm not great with electrical stuff, so I just unplugged, cleaned and reconnected all the plugs I could find. Driver's side light still doesn't work. It has to be something on the ballast input side since the igniter and everything else worked on the passenger side, I've just exhausted my troubleshooting capabilities.

I've been thinking about getting the OEM LED lights anyways, so I'm just going to do that. It will be a step back in light output, but the LEDs will last longer and be easier to maintain.

Once I've got the LEDs, I'll be selling the headlights with the HIDs if anyone is interested.
 
I found the source of a tinny, rattling vibration from the rear...a shield of some kind came loose from my passenger side rear wheel well. it was just sitting on top of the frame and suspension area...pull, bend, pull, bend, pull, and out it came.

Not sure what it was protecting, smarter minds can give me a clue...just glad my rig runs silent again...sounds a little less than my old F150-Fred.G.Sanford pickup...
 
This weekend I changed all the driveline fluids and greased the prop shaft and all of the u-joints..
All went well until I got to the front diff..What a PITA..Aside from removing the front skid, there's barely any clearance under there to maneuver and why the hell didn't Toyota use the same type of plugs for the front that they did on the back, but I digress..

Managed to screw up and used the t-case washers on the rear diff, then had to reuse the t-case washer, but nothing is leaking, so we'll call it a lesson learned..

I did make a mess when refilling the front diff, gear oil spilled everywhere..need to find a better way to do that in the future..
 
Swapped from Slee to SDHQ billet terminals. Since both are taller, you have to turn them slightly so the cables aren't stretched out. The Slee are good but they are just too long for the standard battery.

Slee:

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SDHQ:

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Bonus content: I got a no start condition after I did the work so I swapped back to the Slee terminals only to still have a no start condition. I checked voltage, ground, cables for damage, jumped it from my battery pack and from my other car but nothing. I saw my mistake and took a picture. If you find it, I'll give you an internet high five.

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